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LAX G HOLM AS IT WAS

LANGHOLM

AS IT WAS.

\ HISTORY Op LANGHOLM AND ESKDALE FROM
THE EARLIEST TIMES

JOHN HYSLOP, J. P.,

HON. PRESIDENT OK THE ESKDALE AND LIDDESDALE
VRCH EOLOGICAL SOCIETY, LANGHOLM ;

\M)

ROBERT HYSLOP,

EDITOR OF rRANSACTiONS OF THE SUNDERLAND
\\ I IQI IRIAN soi II-: I V

Mil LS AND COMPANY, SI NDER1 \\n.

SIMPKIN, MARSH Al I , HAMILTON, KENT, W I I i O., LTD . LONDON.

JOHN MENZIES WD CO., LTD., EDINBURGH \\l> GLASGOW.

ROBER1 SCOTT, LANGHOLM.

igi2.

SUNDERLAND:

PRINTED BY HILLS AND COMPANY, 19 FAWCETT STREET

TH£ LIBRARY
UMVHOT « 0UB"'

WITH A HEAVY HEART

BUT

REVERENTLY AND LOVINGLY

I DEDICATE THIS BOOK

THE MEMORY OF MY FATHER,

ITS INSPIRER AND PRINCIPAL AUTHOR,

WHOSE HAND, ALAS,

FELL PROM THE PLOUGH WHILST IT WAS YET

IN MID-FURROW.

R. H,

PRK FAC E

This Volume is the realization of an ambition long- cherished
by my father and myself. For many years my father had been
patiently accumulating the historical data here given.

It was with great reluctance that he was ultimately per-
suaded to write the Reminiscences which form Part IV. of
the book, and I regret exceedingly that it has not been found
possible to include all the material he provided. But another
opportunity of publishing it may occur.

I frankly confess to a feeling of filial pride in this part of
the Volume. For a man of 84 years of age to write what
would in itself form a book of considerable size, and all of
it with his own hand, was, I think, a noteworthy achievement.

His death, whilst the Volume was in the press, robbed me
not only of the gladness which would naturally have attended
the completion of our task, but also of the benefit of his
counsel and guidance in many difficult matters.

In writing the book our aim has been, after consulting the
most reliable authorities, to give a simple and unpretentious
account of the History of Eskdale. Whilst we have endea-
voured to relate the facts with only as much detail as we
deemed essential, we have nevertheless felt assured that not
even the most minute detail of the story but would prove
of interest to Eskdale men and women, whether at home or
abroad. The work has been to both of us a labour of love, and
it is as such that it is now offered for the acceptance of our
fellow dalesmen.

We had intended to issue a book of some 400 pages, which
we hoped to have had ready last Christmas, but my father's
death caused me to alter our plan, and to enlarge considerably
the scope of the work. I feel confident the Subscribers will,
on this account, forgive the long delay.

My father's gratitude, frequently expressed in the last weeks
oi' his life, and my own thanks are due to the many friends
who have aided us in what, under the circumstances, has been
an onerous task Some of them, — Dr Christison, f.s.a. (Scot.),
Edinburgh, Mr. Jas. Barbour, f.s.a (Scot. ), Dumfries, and Mr.
J. C. Little, Burnfoot-of-Ewes, have also passed into t he Un-
seen whilst the book was in the press, but I desire gratefully
to record their interest and help.

To Mr John Reid, Edinburgh, we have been indebted in a
ver) special \\a\ I lis historical and general information lias
boon magnanimously placed at our service, and we have gladly
availed ourselves of it and o\' his advice and assistance, in
e\ er} section of the work.

Thanks arc also due to Mr. Clement Armstrong, President
o\ the Eskdale and Liddesdale Archaeological Society, who has
most willingly given us the benefit of his researches, and ren-
dered \er\ acceptable help.

We have also been greatly indebted to Mr. George R. Golds-
brough, M.sc., Sunderland, for his valuable Survey of the Stone
Circles and his illustrative Map of Eskdale. Such assistance
demanded both expert knowledge and a large amount of labour,
both o\~ which Mr. Goldsbrough has ungrudgingly given.

To the Rev. George Orr, Langholm, our sincere thanks
are given for his unwearying help, both in furnishing histori-
cal information and in revising the proof-sheets, with such
patience and literary skill.

The proofs have been also read by Mr. Reid, Mr. Arm-
strong, Mr. Goldsbrough, Mr. William Hyslop, Mr. J. James
Kitts, Sunderland, whose extensive historical and archaeolog-
ical knowledge has been of great assistance to us, and by Mr.
Harry Goldsbrough, Sunderland, by whose care and intelli-
gence we have been saved much arduous labour.

In special parts of the work we have also received valued
help from Mr. J. H. Milne-Home, Irvine House ; Colonel
Irving, of Bonshaw ; Miss Dobie and Mr. Robert McGeorge,
Langholm, who very kindly permitted us to quote from the MS.
Diary of the late Rev. Dr. Brown of Eskdalemuir ; Dr. David
Woolacott, f.g.s., of the Armstrong College, Newcastle; Mr.
Matthew Welsh ; Mr. Robert Scott ; Mr. Walter Wilson ; Mr.
James Morrison ; Mr. S McKune ; Mr. R Hamilton, m a ,
B.sc. : Mr. \V. L Elton, Langholm; and Councillor G. \\ .
Bain, Sunderland. We are also indebted to Mr. James Smith's
pamphlet on Freemasonry in Langholm for much of the ma-
terial of Chapter XLYI.

' We have also been permitted to make use of the mss. o(
the late Geo. R. Rome, and of the papers read before the
London Eskdale Society by Mr. Geo. Niven, Streatham.

The Illustrations, not made from photographs, have been pro-
duced from pencil drawings by Miss Ethel Kitts, Mrs. Fred.
Laws, Miss M. J. Bowmaker, Mrs. Robert Hyslop, and Miss
Hilda Hyslop, Sunderland, to all of whom our cordial thanks
are given. Acknowledgment is also made of the read} assist-
ance afforded us by Mr. J. T. Burnet, Langholm, who has
supplied plans and drawings.

For the careful Indices we are greatly indebted to Miss Elea-
nor Young and the above-named ladies who assisted her, and
to Mr. HaiT\ Goldsbrough

It is iu>t possible adequatel) to acknowledge all the help we
have received, but mention must be made of the interesl and
assistance given by the following", to whom sincere thanks are
offered: His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch ; The Right Rev-
erend the Lord Bishop of Bristol ; the Rev. Thomas Randell,
m.a , d.d., ll.d., Rector of Ryton-on-Tyne ; the Rev. James
Buchanan, Langholm; the Re> II A Whitelaw, late of
Dumfries, now of Gateshead ; the Rev. D. S. Boutflower,
m.a , Vicar of Christ Church, Sunderland ; the Rev. Jas B
Macdonald, ma., b d. ; the Rev. Robert MacQueen ; the Re\
D. W. Inglis, m a ; the Rev. J A Seaton o\ Langholm ; the
Rev. R. H. Kerr, m.a. ; and the Rev. John Jamieson, ma.,
of Canonby ; the Re\ D Preston, b.d., Ewes; the Rev. John
Gillies, m.a , Westerkirk ; and the Rev. J R Macdonald,
m.a , Eskdalemuir ; Mrs. Bell, Castle O'er ; the Misses Hys-
lop, Mount Gardens, Langholm ; and Messrs. J. W. Allison,
Langholm ; Andrew Aitchison, Old Irvine ; Messrs. Annan,
Glasgow ; Thomas Beattie of Davington ; Jas Burnet, Lang-
holm; W. E. Bowman, Whitburn; S. Carruthers, Langholm;
J. M. Elliot, Westwater; G T Elliot, London: W. Elliot,
Westerker ; Wilfrid Goldsbrough, Sunderland ; R Graham,
Cote ; James Graham, Wishaw ; John Hounam, Gilnockie ;
H. M. Stationer) Office, London ; John Hyslop, Langholm ;
John Laidlaw, Langholm; James Little, Craig; Sir Norman
Lockyer, o\ the Solar Physics Observatory ; W. S. Irving,
Westerkirk; Jas. Malcolm, Eskdalemuir; Walter McVittie,
Piddleton ; J. E. Miller, Sunderland ; John Miller, Langholm;
W W. Moses. Sunderland ; Director ol National Museum o(
Antiquities, Edinburgh ; T. S. New ton. Sunderland ; William
Park, Langholm; John Park, Sunderland; The Registrar-Gen-
eral, Edinburgh; Henry Sanders, Langholm ; J. J. Thomson,
Langholm ; G J Walker, The Observatory ; Messrs A
Walker and Sons, Galashiels ; A D. Raine, Sunderland ; and
W . R. Yuill, New Barnet.

A special word of appreciation must be expressed to Messrs
Hills and Co., Sunderland, and particularly to Mr. John
Rutherford of that firm, for their interest and for the un-
failing courtesy and patience as well as the artistic skill with
which the}- have carried out their important part of the work.

5 BELLE VIK CRESCENT, ROBERT HYSLOP

SUNDERLAND. I J ih June, 1()IJ.

I VNGHOI M

CON fENTS.

INTRODUCTION.

PART I.
kr PREHISTORIC ESKDALE.

I. THK STONE CIRCLES . . . . . . 1 7

II. THE RELIGIOUS PURPOSES OF THE CIRCLES . . 39

III. STANDING STONES 47

IV. CAIRNS AND BARROWS 55

V. THE HILL FORTS 64

VI. GLIMPSES AT PREHISTORIC ESKDALE .... 82

PART II.
R OM AN INVASION TO FEUDAL PERIOD.

VII. THE ROMANS IN ESKDALE

VIII. ESKDALE IN STRATHCLYDE .

IX. THE CHRISTIAN ERA

X. THE ETHNOLOGY OF ESKDALE

XI. THE PLACE-NAMES OF ESKDALE

97
121
.36
■47
'59

PART III.
FEUDAL AND MEDIEVAL.

XII. THE NORMAN BARONS .

XIII. THE BARONIES ....

XIV. THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES .
XV. OTHER ESKDALE CLANS

XVI. CASTLES AND TOWERS .

XVII. BATTLES AND RAIDS

XVIII. THE DEBATEABLE LAND

XIX. THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM

XX. THE BRIDGES OF ESK .

XXI. THE KIRKS OV ESKDALE

XXII. THE COVENANTERS OF ESKDALE .

XXIII. NON-PAROCHIAL KIRKS

XXIV. THE LANGHOLM FAIRS .

XXV THE COMMON MOSS AND KILNGREEN

XXVI. THE COMMON-RIDING

XXVII. RELICS OF THE PAST

1 / /
.84
212
256
321
362
388
391
427
438
483

499
S28

536
543
570

Mil.

PART IV

THE REMINISCENCES OF JOHN HYSLOP

XXVIII. EARLY IMPRESSIONS

XXIX NIK OLD BORDER SPIRIT

XXX. "LANGHOLM AS IT WAS "

XXXI. OLD INNS AND WILLS .

XXXI I. C VRTS AND CO u in s

XXXIII. ROAD AND KAIL

XXXI V. HER MAJES rY'S MAILS .

XXXV. OUR AMUSEMENTS .

XXXVI. SCHOOLS AND SCHOOLMASTERS

XXXVII. ODD FOLK AND ODD EVENTS

XXXVIII. MARRIAGE CUSTOMS

XXXIX. TDK MONUMENT

XL. GLIMPSES HERE AND THERE

Xl.l. THE KIRK

PAGI
58l

S97
620

<>75
693
702

7'4
720

737
717
75-1
769

PAH

GEOLOGICAL, BIOGRAPHICAL, AND GENERAL

XLII. GEOLOGICAL NOTKS OF ESKDALE

Xl.l I A SOME ESKDALE MEN

XLII I. STORMS AND FLOODS

XLIV. ESKDALE CHARITIES

XLV. TDK LIBRARIES

XI. VI. THK ESKDALE KILWINNING I

XLVII. ESKDALEMUIR OBSERVATORY

XLVIII. POPULATION .

ODGK OF KRKKMASONS

795
817
«47
854
858
860
863
864

APPENDICES.

I. CELTIC, NORSE, AND NORMAN-FRENCH WORDS IN THK

LOWLANDS

II. THK CRANSTOUN- CHARTKK OF 1610

III. THE Bl'RGH CHARTER OF 1621

IV. THK NITHSDALK CONTRACT OF 1628
V. DIVISION OF THE COMMONTY OP LANGHOLM

VI. STAPELGORTOUN REGISTKR OF BAPTISMS— 1668- 1681

867
869
87.

874
876

879

NDICES.

\ \ M KS .
SUBJEC l S

«95
9°9

ILLUSTRATIONS.

LANGHOLM FROM THE WATCH KNOWE
nil'. PEAT ROAD, WARBLA

I'AKKAS WATER .
GARWALD WATER
FAIRY LOUP, BYRE BURN .
M \P OF ESKDALE
THE GIRDLE STANES .
THE GIRDLE STANES (PLAN)
THE LOUPIN STANES .
PLAN OV STONES CONNECTING CIRCLES
" THE GREY WETHER "
WESTWATER CIST
CASTLE O'ER FORTS .
C ISI'I.H O'ER TRENCHES
THE SUPPOSED CREMATORIUM
PLAN OF BROOMHOLM KNOW*
RAEBURNFOOT CAMP (PLAN)
RAEBURNFOOT CAMP (SECTIONS)
GILNOCK1E CAMP (NKW-WOODHEAD)
LOGAN H HAD BRIDGE .
THE CHAPEL STANK .
NEW-WOODHEAD BROOCH .
BLEAU'S MAP OF 1662
BROOMHOLM HOUSE .
WESTERHALL
SONSHAW TOWER
MAP— TOWERS ON THE DEBATEABLE LAN
HASP OF COFFER -WAUCHOPE CASTLE
LANGHOLM CASTLE . .

l.\NGHOLM CASTLE (GROUND PLAN) .
LANGHOLM CASTLE (ELEVATION)
HOLLOWS (GILNOCKIE) TOWER .
INSCRIBED STONE IN GILNOCKIE TOWER

STAKEHEUCH

FIDDLETON BANK END
LANGHOLM BURGH COAT OF ARMS
HENRY, THIRD DUKE OF BUCCLEUCH
LANGHOLM MERCAT CROSS
LANGHOLM LODGE

skipper's BRIDGE

LANGHOLM BRIDGE

GILNOCKIE BRIDGE

CANONBY BRIDGE

SEDILIA IN CANONBY KIRKYARD

STONES IN CANONBY KIRKYARD

STAPELGORTOUN KIRKYARD

WAUCHOPE KIRKYARD

CROSS AND SWORDS IN WAUCHOPE

r5f)o

PAGE

Frontispiece
7

XV.

OLD COIN SHOWING Nil i III RHO
LANGHOLM KIRK) \KI>

rOKBM

WBSTERKIRK

I Mi MAIM VR'S GRAV1

mi ESSION mi BTING HOI SE , 1 822

ROB1 R i SMI I l H

DISRUPTION SCENE \l GILNOCKIK BRIDGI

ISKDALI COMMUNION rOKBNS .

GROUP OF CORNETS ....

WILLIAM ARMS l RONG

JOHN IK VIM

PROC1 \M\MO.\ OF THE FAIR, 1882 .

CORN-DRYING KILN A I WESTWATER

1 \Kl.l sell. I. URN ....

JOHN HYSLOP

I U SIMII I OF KV 1HOKS MS.

MASONIC PROCESSION, DIAMOND JUBILEE,

ARMLESS ROB

" \vr 1.1.1K wud"

PLAN OF LANGHOLM ....

LANGHOLM MAKKl I PLACE

1 PROLINE STRE B I COT l AG1 S

CROSS KEYS, CANONBY

MOSSPAUL INN .....

THE FALLEN BRIDGE, BOATFORD

JOHNIE LINTON ...

CHAIRLIK HOGG .....

TOMMY ....

PLANS OF THE MOM Ml N I

FIRS! ISSUE OF l< ESKDALE AND LIDDKSD

ALEXANDER REID ....

" I II K GATES OF KIM- :n " "

ISAAC FLETCHER ....

'• PICKER JOCK "

BIG DOWIR STANK ....

I III Pl.i MP, W M CHOPE WATER
SIR JOIl\ M u.coi.M
MOM'MKNI TO SIR JOHN MALCOLM
BIRTHPLACE 0\- THOMAS TELFORD .
THOMAS TELFORD ...

TELFORD'S SUN-DIAI

lll.lOKDs SUN-DIAL ANDREW PARK'S PE
DOORWAY WORKED BY THOMAS TELFORD
M \ I I HEW WELSH
PRIV VI I Mi VI I I IK

I IIOM \s HOPK

1 ill- SOUTBR STAKE ....
PI \\ Ol COMMONTY ....

in);

e68

\~'>
495
5<>4
51 I
5"9
5 -'7
548
55-'
560

5' '7
57()
575
58 1

584
594

602
604
620

626
667
670

68-|

699

723

742

• *8-9
756
758

760

763

77*
808

813
825

830

831

833
834

84.

«44

ERRATA.

Page 183, first footnote, Chapter XIX. should be Chapter XVII.

Page 264, line 14, Chapter XXI. should be Chapter XXII.

Page 534, line 15, the date 1672 should be 1663.

Page 553, line 1 t, the date 1859 should be 1759.

In the earlier Chapters the first initial of the name of Mr. R. Bruce
Armstrong- has been inadvertently given as " A."

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS

LANGHOLM.

LANGHOLM ! — a word of magic meaning to the
sons and daughters o( Kskdale, for whom, prim-
arily, this hook has been written, — a name which
awakens the longing and passion of us all who are her
children. In our esteem, in our love, there is no place
to contest its supremacy, and even comparison is often
deemed un filial. The remark that Scotsmen are " most
at home when they are abroad " was the sneer of a
cynic, and it fails entirely to apply to the people of Esk-
dale. To the man who has lived all his days in the
bosom of its hills, Eskdale has an attraction quite as
potent and active as that which it offers to him who
can only see these hills through the mists of distance
and of years. The causes which divide men and
women into opposite parties — politics, religion, and the
like, — operate in Kskdale, where opinions and principles
are tenaciously held, but to the valley itself, the com-
mon earth-mother which gave them birth, her children
are drawn by one mighty common bond of affection,
which can be impaired neither by absence nor time.
Probably this is true of a hundred other places, but
our love for Langholm and for Eskdale seems a deeper
and intenser feeling even than the common love of

country.
B

2 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Sitting by his fireside of a winter's night, far from
where the Esk is perhaps rolling in flood, some son
of Eskdale will suddenly get a glimpse of the home
o( his boyhood — its people, its hills, its woods, its lonely
burns, — recollections of far-away days crowd upon him,
memories of men and women who lived their quiet lives
among the Eskdale hills float around him, and that
strange and subtle spell, which Home throws over us
all, steals slowly upon him, even as he has seen the
white mists fall quietly on the sides of Whita. A man
who long years ago may have left his home in Eskdale,
as so many have done, to find another in some throng-
ing city where the call of the curlew is never heard,
save in the exile's fancy, can see, as in a dream, the
summer sun lingering on the brow of Whita, or he
may catch the matchless trill of the lark as it soars above
the hill on some bright summer morning, and there
comes upon him that wistful longing which is only the
mellowed reflection of a home sickness that was once
prolonged and acute. Or if these fancies and memories
come to him when the heather is purpling round the
Monument, which crowns so fittingly the summit of
Whita, his eagerness to breathe again the heather-
scented air will probably determine him to return to Esk-
dale with all convenient haste. The heart of many a man
who may not have heard it for long weary years, beats
faster as he recalls the song of the lark by Whita well,
for a draught of whose cold water he as ardently longs,
as King David longed that memorable night for a
drink of the water from the Well of Bethlehem that was
beside the gate.

This longing has been well expressed by Roger Quin,
in whose soul the love of the Borders lay deep : —

LANGHOLM.

" From the moorland and the meadows

To this cil v <>l the shadows
Where I wandered sad and lonely, comes the call I understand.

In clear soft tones enthralling

It is calling, calling, calling,
"lis th»" spirit of the open from the dear old Borderland.

" Ah ! thai call, who can gainsay it ?

To hear is to obey it,
I must leave the bustling city to the busy city men

Leave behind its feverish madness,

Leave its scenes of sordid sadness,
And drink the unpolluted air of Eskdale* once again.

" The trance, the dream, is over,

I awake ! but to discover
The city's rush and jostling crowds — the din on every hand,

But on my ear soft falling

I can hear the curlews calling,
And I know that soon I'll see them in the dear old Borderland.''

The affection which the Eskdale man cherishes for his
old home is not what Tennyson called a " distant dear-
ness," it is a potent influence throughout his life, an
ever present passion which like the activity of radium,
glows steadily yet wastes not away :

" Time but the impression deeper makes,
As streams their channels deeper wear."

Wherein lies the secret of this magic power and in-
fluence— this romance which Geikie says of the Lowland
hills and vales, " hangs about them like a golden mist"?
It lies not in any solitary cause, but adheres to every
form or phase in which Eskdale or Langholm presents
itself to its children, — its charming natural beauties seen
on every hill, hiding in every valley, in every " dell
without a name," its flexible and picturesque Scots
tongue, its thrilling history, — most of it preserved only
in the old Border way of oral tradition, — its men and
women stamped as they are with the hall-marks of

We have taken the liberty of substituting " Eskdale" for " Yarrow,"
— the sentiment applies equally to both.

4 LANGH6LM AS IT WAS.

"character," and o( vivid individuality, its humour, which
pervades like an atmosphere all aspects of its social and
public life, its many other attributes too delicate, too
subtle for the pen of even a ready writer to set forth in
all their colour and intensity. Lies this power to in-
fluence in scenery then, or history, in memories or associ-
ations? In all of these it lies, but not exclusively in any
one, — for we cannot dissect, analyse, or classify the most
sacred emotions and passions of our lives — light and
shadow on the hill, green fern and brown bracken,
splash of colour on the heather; cry of the curlew, whir-r-r
of the grouse ; birk and hazel and hawthorn tree ; the
green and purple of the hillside broken by moss-covered
boulder, — "the fragment of an earlier world,"— primroses
by the burn side, blue hyacinths in wood and glade ;
snow on field and tree and hill, — a fairyland of a night's
creation, — mist upon the brae, rain upon the moors with
clouds lying low, trailing their white skirts along the
sides of Whita ; calm grey of a summer twilight, sunny
fragrant morning when the woods are a waving chorus ;
Esk glimmering in the summer sun, or rushing mightily
in flood when the November rains have fallen all day
long on the hills ; a cluster of white cottages along the
side of Wauchope, a winding and narrow street called
Strait ; memories of childhood of the days of old, the
music of one's mother tongue ; these and a thousand
other impressions concentrate themselves to a focus and
we call it — Langholm !

Eskdale people meet out in the Australian bush, or on
"the illimitable veldt" and talk of home ; on the Canadian
wheat fields, or in the great American cities, and with
unerring instinct recognise each other as sons of the
dale. They meet in great brick cities and talk the night

LANGHOLM. 5

long oi Eskdale's hills and burns and glens ; they laugh
again over the droll peculiarities oi this u character " or
that, recalling some half-buried memory of that Com-
mon-Riding long long ago their talk is oi Home,
that Home they left many years ago, but towards which
their longings are yet set.

The beautiful and varied sceuerv oi Eskdale is, with-
out doubt, one of the factors which have given to it a
unique and unchallenged place in the hearts oi its
people. But not its children only have yielded to its spell.
Not even the compiler oi' a gazetteer can look at Esk-
dale without allowing himself a few sentences of admir-
ation ! Visitors become enthusiastic over its beauties,
and indeed they discover beauty spots unsuspected or
inadequately recognised by those long familiar with the
district. Mr. Disraeli is said to have declared that the
drive from Langholm to Canonbie was unequalled by
anything he had seen in all his travels. Pennant, the
great antiquary, looking rather for age than beauty,
declared it to be " great and enchanting," and added
that it was " no wonder then that the inhabitants of these
parts yet believe that the fairies revel in these delightful
scenes." Writing for Sinclair's Statistical Account about
the \ear 1793, the parish minister thus describes hang-
holm: "The verdant hills beautifully skirted with woods
which shelter it east and west ; the Esk, 4 overhung with
woods, 'gliding swiftly along ; the town appearing through
the intertwining trees, and the hills and woods at a distance
assuming a semi-circular form, terminate this charming
landscape a landscape oi which, as containing an assem-
blage oi rural beaut)- and romantick scenery, it baffles
the happiest efforts oi imagination to give an adequate
description."

6 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The valley o( the Esk indeed displays almost every
aspect of scenery to be found among the southern up-
lands o( Scotland. Geologists speak of " the monotony "
of these uplands, but the term is scientific rather than
impressionist. To the native or the tourist, who troubles
much less about the geology of a district than about its
climate, these hills and dales, and woods and glades pre-
sent an unfailing theme of interest and admiration. As
the Esk tumbles down from its source among the
lofty hills which border the counties of Dumfries and
Selkirk, it creates some of the most varied and pleasing
scenery, full of swift surprises, to be found in the south
of Scotland. For it is the river that has been and still is
the master-sculptor, to whose bold and tireless chiselling
the beauties of the dale are due. Here, like Yarrow, more
famed perhaps in song and story, but not more pictur-
esque or romantic, " it flows the dark hills under," there
in the course of untold centuries it has cut its way through
a tumbled mass of rocks whose summits are gaily decked
with rowan or birk, and on whose green mossy sides wild
violets or primroses grow. Now it slumbers in this
dark pool, eerie with superstition, the haunt of the otter,
the trysting place of fishers ; now it glints and mur-
murs over some pebbly bed, seldom long in the one same
mood, but to those who love it, it is always fair, ever
fascinating.

May it not have appealed just in this way to the tribes-
men whom the Romans found in Eskdale ? Must it not
have been such a love for his native vale as we have,
that nerved the ancient Celt to withstand the shocks
of the Roman legions ? Thus, too, it would appeal later to
the rude and troubled Cumbrian, slowly struggling into
a crude civilization, or a cruder Christianity, — to the hardy

LANGHOLM. 7

Border raider, who knew all the hiding places on its banks,
or amongst the hills through which it Hows. Thus, too,
did Esk make its appeal to those- nearer forefathers of OUT
own, who have transmitted to their descendants that love
and admiration for its beauties which are characteristic
of Eskdale people.

But Esk does not reserve to herself all the charm of
the district. Her many tributaries abound in those as-
pects of nature which leave their impress on every man
o( simple heart. Than the valley of the Ewes few more
delightful places can be found. Even more than Esk-
dale itself, it has inspired the poet and the painter. Of
a different quality, wilder, lonlier, more rugged and in-
different to artistic form, with a weird, indescribable touch
of melancholy upon it, is Wauchope, whose glory is in
the past — upon which now, alas ! only clouds and sunsets

. - .«:

PEAT ROAD, VVARBLA.

8 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

rest. Sunsets? If the reader wants to see a Langholm
sunset he must climb slowly that old Peat Road which
runs in straggling line along the northern side of Warbla
Hill.

There when the sun sinks over the Calrield Hill and
all the west is aflame with purple and gold, the tossed
and scattered clouds waving red across the heavens like
seas of grass on fire, and all the sky is brushed with
hues too delicate, too beautiful to be other than short-
lived ; when the after-glow is lingering long on Warbla's
side, though it has faded from off the other hills,
touching the old alders* and hawthorns with amber by a
defter brush than that of the cleverest artist ; when the
brow of Whita is tinged with orange, and upon the
distant hills there falls that wonderful purple haze which
serves so well to set out those more vivid colourings of
the western sky which is ever flashing into new grada-
tions of tone and shade — changing momentarily but still
remaining as a memory of the heart — then ought the
reader to see Warbla and Wauchope ! If, as the after-
glow dies off the hill, the great full moon should climb
over Warbla Knowe, so much intenser and more last-
ing will be his memory !

Esk, Wauchope, and Ewes meet at Langholm, and an
impressive sight they make, especially when the winter
rains have swollen the burns, and the waters come rush-
ing and tumbling through the town more swiftly than
the tide o'erflows the sands of Solway. Over the head
of Whita, and down in a picturesque valley of heather and
birk runs the Tarras, the swiftest river in Dumfriesshire,
scrambling over its great sandstone boulders, the wrecks
of many a winter storm which ages ago must have raged

* The Langholm people call them " ellers." -cp. German eliers.

LANGHOLM.

TARRAS WATER.

along that deeply scarred side of old Whita. Artists
who come in sunny summer weather to paint in Tarras
Water never tire in their eulogies of this lonely moun-
tain stream. Then the anger of the water, and the
absolute loneliness and weirdness of the moor are atoned
for by the charm of its purple heather, and the greenness
of its waves of bracken which shelter many a wild bird
whose cry o( alarm at your profane intrusion mingles
with the plaintive bleating of the sheep — almost the only
sounds one hears on Tarras side, unless, indeed, the
thunder suddenly cracks overhead, for, say the people
oi Langholm, all thunderstorms converge into Tarras.
But how much more awesome must Tarras have been
in those far gone ages when the volcano at the Cooms
answered the eruption and the thunder of its companion
at the Peter Hill !

And in the burns which flow into Esk, up which few
i^o save shepherds and fishers, are beauty spots of de-

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

lightful variety. From Garwald Water — "the rugged
ravine"— to Byre Burn with its " Fairy Loup," the
valley of the Esk abounds in charms which have never
been advertised — which are unknown to the guide book
or the railway carriage !

GARWALD WATER.

The hills on whose sides the town of Langholm is
built form the larger segment of a circle enfolding the
town. Thence they rise in ascending terraces to the sky
line, spreading for many a mile far away into the up-
lands. The reference of the Psalmist to the mountains
"standing alway round about Jerusalem" is often fondly
applied to Langholm, and the simile is apt. The more
scarred and rugged features of Highland scenery are
wanting, but nature has provided compensations. From
the hill tops, so easily reached, what a panorama may be

LANGHOLM

i i

seen ! In all el i reel ions seas of hills in vivid green,
broken by valley and dell, the green speckled with the
whitest o( sheep, or patched with heather, whilst far
away on the south-west like a silver ribbon drawn across
the horizon stretch the waters of the Solway ! Beyond
it are the broken peaks of the Cumberland hills, and the
less rugged hills beyond the Nith far down into the
storied and romantic lands of Galloway.

FAIRY LOUP, BYRE BURN.

12 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Probably it may be said of every place that it reflects
more or less closely the different stages of development
through which it has passed. Each stage of the evolu-
tionary process leaves some evidence behind, and all
these inheritances from the past generations unite to
give colour and character to what the place is to-day. But
this can be said with greater truth of a village or country
town. There the colouring is sharper and wears away
less quickly than where the population is cosmopolitan
or changeable. It is eminently true of a town like Lang-
holm. To understand its present life aright we must
trace back many a heritage. Many of the legends and
traditions and superstitions which lived long in Eskdale,
had their origin far back in those days when history was
written in stones standing on hill tops, or in circles which
to-day form topics of learned discussion by antiquary and
archaeologist. What the people are, what they think and
say and do, is the aggregate of many influences which
have coloured and modified life in these valleys during
many centuries. This influence has exerted a cumulative
effect, and it is traceable in certain well-defined local
characteristics. In not a few o( the customs of Eskdale
the pagan influence or the Celtic may still be noticed.
As we shall show later many of the place-names in the
valley are of Celtic origin. Similarly the influence of
the Saxons and Norsemen, as they successively swooped
down on Eskdale can be traced, not in names or words
alone, but in the physical form and feature, and in the
mental characteristics of the people. Similarly one may
note in the intense patriotism which pulses in every Esk-
dale man, the spirit of the Forest men who fought in
many a fierce battle whilst yet the liberties of their coun-
try were insecure. Perhaps, also, to this influence, born

LANGHOLM. 13

and nurtured in stern and long-continued conflict, we
may ascribe that resolute perseverance which strangers
have noted in Eskdale folk, — and have often called by
less complimentary names. In a religious connection
one of the dominating influences in Eskdale was the Cove-
nanting struggle. It left a deep mark upon the convic-
tions and upon the religious and theological trend of the
people of Eskdale, which is not yet obliterated, despite
the tendency of the railway, the penny post, and the half-
penny newspaper to reduce even Scotsmen to a common
denominator in politics and religion, as much as in dress,
or customs, or laws. An interesting remnant of the
period remains in the little Cameron ian kirk at Daving-
ton — a solitary monument of that day of stress and
struggle. Solitary? No, there is also that lonely grave
on the low hill-side at Craighaugh where " Andrew
I Iislop, shepherd lad," was shot down for his loyalty and
fidelity to Christ's crown and kingdom !

And surely, too, their tenacity of purpose, their readi-
ness to endure, their comparative disregard of personal
comfort, which entered so much more into the mental
make-up of our forefathers than they do into their feebler
descendants, are directly traceable to those stirring days
of Border feud and fray, when stock raising was a
gamble and trading almost a skirmish.

So here in Eskdale stand those eloquent though dumb
memorials of the past — stone circle, standing stone, cairn,
fort or buried camp, Roman slab or coin unearthed by
the plough, mound where old British warriors were laid
to rest, tomb of the martyred Covenanter, bare and silent
tower, u where on Esk side it standeth stout," fragment
of masonry in kirkyard or field — all these remain to speak
to Eskdale men of to-day of what the Eskdale men of the

i4 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

past were and did. It is of these memorials and of those
far-off days, when they represented all that was most
active and powerful in the life of Eskdale, and also of
the quieter though perhaps not less interesting- days which
afterwards dawned, and of the men and women who
played a part in their tragedy and comedy, that we would
try to tell in the pages of this book.

Part I.

PREHISTORIC ESKDALE.

■x

]

PREHISTORIC ESKDALE.
CHAPTER I.

THE STONE CIRCLES.

T^IIE oldest archaeological remains in Eskdale are
the Stone Circles. Prior to the publication of
the last Ordnance Map these were styled " Druidical
Circles" or k' Druidical Temples" ; but in recent maps
the reference to the Druids has been dropped. This is
in accord with the conclusions arrived at after the
most careful investigations both by archaeologists and
historians.

Interest in the Stone Circles of Eskdale naturally con-
centrates itself upon those on the farm of Cote,* twelve
miles from Langholm. Evidences exist that there were
originally other Stone Circles in the district. Writing
in 1 841 for Sinclair's Statistical Account, the Rev. James
Green, minister of the parish of Westerkirk, mentions
that 4i on a neck of land between Esk and Megget, and
part of the farm of Westerker, there are several whin-
stones placed erect in the ground, which have every
appearance of the remains of a Druidical temple."

No trace of this Circle can now be found, nor do en-
quiries in the district result in any reliable or definite
information. Evidently the stones were still standing
as late as 1841. It is very singular that ere twenty
years had passed all traces of this prehistoric monument
should have entirely disappeared.

* The original spelling- was Cot, and this we believe is still retained in
the Estate documents.
C

i8 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

In addition to these Circles, there are dotted about in
various parts of upper Eskdale, what on the Ordnance
Maps are called Stone Rings. This designation has
been used to indicate that evidences of stone or masonry
exist, but it implies no theory as to the nature or use of
such structures. These Stone Rings do not seem to
have any relation to Stone Circles.

The Circles at the Cote* form a group which must at
one time have been one of the most arresting landmarks
in the Eskdale valley. Their builders, of whom we
know so little, had apparently an appreciation of natural
beauty as well as a keen mathematical sense. In Esk-
dale they selected as a site for their temples, a fairly
level holm set in the midst of towering hills. Across the
Esk there juts out the volcanic crag of Wat-Carrick.+
On the east the smoother hills behind the Cote rise
abruptly to 1,000 feet. Higher up the valley the Holm
Craig and Clerk Hill seem to meet to bar the way to
the north, and on the west rise the Castle Hill and Over
Rig. Near to the Circles now flows the Esk, which,
when they were built, ran under the face of Wat-Car-
rick hundreds of yards away to the west. On a summer
day a place of great natural beauty this, but on a day of
rain or of swirling snow a scene of wildness and weird-

* The Rev. J. C. Dick, at one time minister of Eskdalemuir, in a
paper on The Antiquities of Eskdalemuir , read to the Dumfries and
Galloway Natural History and Antiquarian Society and afterwards
published, suggested that these Circles at the Cote were merely the
"standing stones" so often found on hillsides or moors as boundary
stones between estates—" only this and nothing- more ! "

Mr. Dick admitted, however, that they were of great antiquity — a
kind of prehistoric stone dyke, we suppose, glorified by a simple archi-
tectural device ! It seems so unnecessary to have written a paper and
gone all the way to Dumfries to propound this quaint solution of one of
the most abstruse problems in archaeology !

t The name of JfW-Carrick seems to be a corruption of W'W-Carrick,
the name still given to it by the people of Eskdalemuir, The spelling
occasionallv is also Weid, and Weit,

THE STONK CIRCLES. 19

ness. It is not unlikely that both of these aspects of
nature strongly appealed to the intuitions and supersti-
tions of those old Cirele builders.

The two Circles at the Cote are named —

I. — The Loupin' Stanes.
II. — The Girdle Stanes.

Though now forming separate circles 600 yards apart,
that they were at one time, though possibly not origin-
ally, parts of one scheme is clearly indicated by their
relative positions and especially by the irregular line of
large stones stretching from one to the other.

Only two of the stones of the first Circle are now
standing. One stands 4 feet 9 inches above ground and
measures 19 feet 5 inches in girth. The other is also
4 feet 9 inches high but is only 7 feet 8 inches in girth.
It is quite possible that some of the other stones com-
posing the Circle are in their original positions, though
they are now greatly weathered and broken.

The late Mr. Richard Bell of Castle O'er explains* the
name "Loupin' Stanes" by a local legend that at one time
the young men of the neighbourhood were accustomed to
exercise their athletic powers by jumping, or " loupin'"
from one to the other of these upright stones, until an
accident occurred, and one man broke his leg in the at-
tempt. As the stones are eight feet apart the feat was
one of some note even for a nimble schoolboy, to whom
the off-chance of breaking his leg would no doubt prove
an irresistible attraction. This use of so venerable a
relic of antiquity, which was probably standing there
up among the green Eskdale hills, whilst Moses was still
negotiating to effect the exodus of the Israelites out of

* My Strange Pets, p. 305.

20 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Egypt, is of course a recent one, and in no way sug-
gestive, as the above schoolboy would probably fancy,
of its original purpose !

This first Circle when built appears to have consisted
of nine* large stones, and was nearly 36 feet in diameter,
or some 113 feet in circumference by inside measure-
ment.

Lord Aveburyt has observed that the usual diameter
of these circles was 100 feet, and says that a special
significance attached to the number of stones composing
the circle. Some had 12, some 30, some 60, or even
100. In Cornwall, where so many ancient stone circles
and other monuments still exist, the number was usually
19, but in other districts it was 9. Though the stones
were often of unequal height they were generally placed
at equal distances from each other. These character-
istics, however, certainly do not apply to the Eskdale
Circles, nor yet to those at Keswick. Though the
Loupin' Stanes had nine stones, the Girdle Stanes,

* Nine was a common number of stones in these old circles. Other
local illustrations are the circles at Nine Stane Rigg, on the farm of
Whisgills, in Liddesdale, and at Whitcastles in the parish of Hutton
and Corrie, adjoining the parish of Eskdalemuir on the west, where the
stones unfortunately are all recumbent. Of this circle very careful
measurements were made by Mr. Bell of Castle O'er. He found that
the diameter of the circle measured from north to south 141 feet 6 inches,
and from east to west 180 feet. The largest stone measured 7 feet 9
inches, and the others varied in height down to 4 feet 6 inches. One out-
lier measured 8 feet 8 inches in length.

On the opposite side of the Boss Burn are, what Mr. Bell took to be,
the bases of three cairns. These are separated at unequal distances
from each other and have diameters of 41 by 38 inches, 42 by 34 inches,
and 23 by 32 inches.

Mr. Bell made a sketch showing the position of each stone of the
circle and noting its length, width, and thickness. The circumference
is 540 feet. The distances between the stones are unequal.

Having done this work for the Whitcastles circle it seems curious that
Mr. Bell should have left behind him no data concerning those in Esk-
dale, but the writers are informed by Mrs. Bell that no such notes can
be found.

f Prehistoric Times.

THE STONE CIRCLES. 21

as will be shown later, must originally have had about
forty. A little to the south-east of the Loupin' Stanes
there is what, to the casual observer, appears to have

been, and probably was, another Cirele also oi nine
stones, with a centre stone. Some o( these stones have
been displaced, and the contour o\ the Circle is conse-
quently broken. Nearer the Esk, and almost touching
the Loupin' Stanes, are four single stones whose
relation to the other members of the group it is very
difficult even to guess. Fancy or guesswork might
weave a simple theory which could neither be proved
nor absolutely refuted, — but it is wiser not to guess in
questions like this !

Reference has already been made to the " avenue," or
line of single stones stretching from the Loupin'
Stanes to the Girdle Stanes. Though the line is
not a straight one, and is broken, it seems to afford
fairly conclusive proof that all these stones at the Cote
are parts of what must once have been a prehistoric
monument of considerable importance, and, needless to
add, of great antiquity.

Naturally, the greater interest attaches to the Girdle
Stanes Circle. This name is also of recent date, and
was probably given because the Circle bore a general
resemblance to the girdle of domestic use.* This Circle
is not complete. Nearly one-half of it has been washed
away by the Esk which, in the course of the centuries,
unfortunately has considerably altered its course at this
point, creating a fine alluvial tract, but on the other

* The word "girdle" is probably derived through the Anglo-Saxon
gyrdj a hoop, or from ilu> Gaelic word cearcal, from which also come

kirk, and therefore church.

But it is also said to come from greidiol, meaning "stones placed
round a fire." — The Scottish Gael, Vol. II., p. 117.

22 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

hand, doing irreparable damage to this ancient monu-
ment.

Then the questions arise — what purpose was served
by these ancient structures ? and when were they
built? With the view of finding a reliable answer
to these questions, Mr. George R. Goldsbrough, m.sc,
of Sunderland, made, at the invitation of the writers, a
careful survey of the Girdle Stanes Circle, and the
results of his observations are given later. These the
writers consider to be of first-rate value and importance,
and of intense interest to every native or admirer of
Eskdale. Mr. Goldsbrough's calculations and conclu-
sions have been submitted to Sir Norman Lockyer, the
eminent astronomer, and Superintendent of the Solar
Physics Observatory at South Kensington, and they
have received his approval. We very gladly acknow-
ledge Sir Norman's courtesy in permitting us to refer to
this in these pages.

Some general considerations introductory to Mr.
Goldsbrough's notes may here be set forth to assist the
casual reader to appreciate fully his conclusions.

There are hundreds of these circles scattered through-
out the British Isles, whilst traces exist which indicate
that perhaps larger numbers have been destroyed by the
vandalism or the ignorance of the generations which
have come and gone since the circles were built. Even
in Eskdale, as already mentioned, such traces are not
wanting. In other countries these monuments are found
in even larger numbers than in the British Isles. The
most wonderful of all, greater and more elaborate in
conception and design than Stonehenge or Avebury, is
the group of circles at Carnac, in Brittany, a country
singularly rich in such ancient monuments. In Den-

THE STONE CIRCLES. 23

mark, in Egypt, and in India, stone circles are often
found, a fact which in itself disproves the theory that
the circles were Druidical, or that they were of Scan-
dinavian origin. In Africa both stone circles and
more extensive and elaborate relics oi prehistoric times
are constantly being discovered. Dr. Livingstone men-
tions seeing such circles during his wanderings, and we
know that both Rhodesia and Mashonaland abound in
magnificent ruins/

Archaeologists regard the beautiful and ancient
Temples of Egypt, and its mysterious Pyramids, as their
most fruitful field of research, and Lord Avebury sug-
gests that the Pyramids themselves are but the final
expression of that same idea which prompted our semi-
civilized and pagan ancestors to set up these primitive
circles of rough unhewn stones.

The suggestion that between the great Pyramid of
Cheops, round which so much mystery and romance
have become entwined, and these Stone Circles in the
fastnesses of Eskdalemuir there may exist a bond of
connection — some, as yet, undiscovered correspondence
of purpose and design, is a little startling ! It may
possibly be, however, that the thought is no more ex-
travagant than that which shows as a fundamental one-
ness of purpose between St. Peter's of Rome, or St.
Paul's of London, and the plain little Cameronian kirk
at Davington, in Kskdale — the great and the small
united by an identity of faith and worship.

We read with almost monotonous frequency in the
Old Testament of stones being set up as historical mon-
uments or as expressions of religious sentiment. These

* See The Great Zimbabwe, by R. X. Hall.

24 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

indeed were often single stones, but references are also
made to the erection of groups of such stones both
in Palestine and the neighbouring countries, especially
in the land of Moab, where it is said some 700 such
circles are found.*

There can be scarcely any doubt but that the "high
places" and "groves" which the inhabitants of Canaan
so persistently set up, and which were so denounced by
the prophets of Israel and Judah, were such circles of
stones as we find at the Cote in Eskdalemuir. The
11 high places " and the " groves " seem to have been an
integral part of Baal worship. We read, too, of sun-
images and the adoration of the host of heaven, and
similar observances, which, it is suggested, also formed
part of the purpose of these Circles in Eskdale. These
considerations indicate that the erection and use of these
prehistoric monuments were part of a widely prevalent
system of nature worship practised contemporaneously
by many nations of different language and descent.
Inferences as to date might be drawn from this corres-
pondence, but the range of time within which these
stone monuments were built is so vast, extending from
3600 B.C. to about 650 B.C., that any such inferences
would be valueless.

The most remarkable of such monuments in this
country are at Stonehenge and Avebury in Wiltshire,

* In Exodus xxiv. v. 4 we are told that Moses set up 12 stones at Sinai,
and travellers mention that a stone circle 100 feet in diameter is still to
be seen in the Sinai Peninsula. And in the Book of Joshua (iv.) we read
that when Joshua had successfully led the people over Jordan he erected
1 2 stones at Gilgal as a memorial of the event The number 1 2 of course
was representative of the tribes, but whether the stones were set in
circular form we are not told. Probably they were. The Israelitish
leader was not presumably initiating a new custom, but simply adapting'
to its special use one which already had been widely followed. The
date given in the Authorised Version of this event is cir. 1450 B.C.

THE STONE CIRCLES. 25

and at Callernish in the Island o( Lewis. Archaeolo-
gists are well agreed that all these monuments were
built by the race which preceded the Celtic in the series
of migrations to these Islands. To Stonehenge, arch-
aeologists, working entirely on the evidence furnished by
the monuments themselves, by excavating, sifting, classi-
fying, and comparing all the data obtained, assign the
approximate date of 1800 B.C. Sir Norman Lockyer,
dealing with the monument from an astronomical stand-
point, and examining the orientation of its axis, fixed
the date of Stonehenge at 1700 B.C. — a virtual agree-
ment arrived at by strictly scientific methods applied
along two different lines. By the same method Mr.
Morrow fixed the date o( the Keswick Circle as 1400
B.C. The Girdle Stanes resemble the Keswick Circle
both in the number of the stones and in the general
astronomical plan, but in the latter the stones are con-
siderably larger.

In corroboration of these far-off dates it may be men-
tioned that a peat-moss had actually accumulated over
the great circle of Callernish, which is one of the most
interesting prehistoric monuments in Britain. It, too,
had been built on definite astronomical lines.

In his survey oi the Girdle Stanes, made on Good
Friday, 191 1, Mr. Goldsbrough followed the method so
successfully applied by Sir Norman Lockyer to Stone-
henge and many other circles in Wiltshire and Cornwall.

Subjoined are the conclusions arrived at by Mr. Golds-
brough, and it may safely be surmised that they will
prove of great and lasting interest, not to Eskdale people
alone, but to archaeologists generally.

26 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

THE GIRDLE STANES.

SURVEY OF THE GIRDLE STANES.

" There is strong evidence to show that the earliest
inhabitants of these Islands were sun worshippers. The
circles of standing stones were their open-air temples
where they conducted the rites and ceremonies connected
with their religion. The nature of their worship and
belief must of course be largely a matter of conjecture,
for it must be remembered that the circles date back to
periods long before the Druidical era. The forms and
positions of the circles have, however, led observers to
the supposition that they had not only a religious but a
practical purpose. That practical purpose was to deter-
mine the seasons. It is probable that the hold of the
priestly class over the common people depended very

THE STONE CIRCLES. 27

much upon the ability o( the former to indicate the most
suitable time to

" Plough and sow,
Reap and mow."

In our almanacs the year is divided into four quarters
by the position of the sun in the heavens. Taking the
present year (191 1) we have —

Spring equinox, March 21st ;
Summer solstice, June 22nd ;
Autumn equinox, Sept. 24th ;
Winter solstice, Dec. 22nd.

At the equinoxes the days are of equal length, and the
sun rises due east and sets due west. The day of the
summer solstice is the longest day, and the sun rises
and sets at its most northerly points. The day of the
winter solstice is the shortest day, and the sun rises
and sets at its most southerly points. These, the astro-
nomical divisions of the year, could quite easily be
determined by the early astronomer-priests by simply
observing the position of the sun on the horizon as it
rose each day. But they are of less practical value to
an agricultural community than another set of divisions,
the agricultural divisions, namely —

Spring begins Feb. 4th ;
Summer begins May 6th ;
Autumn begins Aug. 8th ;
Winter begins Nov. 8th.

These dates are, of course, only approximate. Their
positions are midway between those of the astronomical
year, and their value to the farmer is quite evident.

As the following calculations will show, the Girdle

28 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Stanes were erected in such a position as would enable
the priests to fix the quarter days of the agricultural
year exactly. Further, it seems probable that these
quarter days were days of high festival, when the rising
o( the sun was greeted with great ceremonial observance.
In order that the priests might be prepared to have all
their paraphernalia ready for the sun-rise, it would be
necessary for them to know the time of night, or at least
how near it was to sun-rise. For this purpose they used
a ** warning star." A bright star was selected which
would rise or set just before sun-rise, and so warn the
priests to be ready for the appearance of their god. The
position of the sun-rise on each quarter-day and the
place of rising or setting of the "warning star" were
indicated, sometimes by outlying stones which could be
illuminated when necessary, and sometimes by making
use of the natural features of the horizon in hill districts.
Both of these methods were used in the design of the
Girdle Stanes.

Now, owing to the astronomical phenomenon known
as the Precession of the Equinoxes, the pole of the
heavens has changed its place, and consequently the
14 warning stars " will no longer rise or set in the places
indicated. By noting the change to the present positions
of the ''warning stars," we can form a very accurate
estimate of the date when the Circle was set up.

The Girdle Stanes as now existing consist of 22
large stones forming an arc of a circle, standing on the
left bank of the White Esk about twelve miles above
Langholm. The Circle was obviously complete at one
time, but a change in the course of the river has cut
away the bank and carried off some of the stones, which
can now be seen lying in the river bed. Some of the

THE STONE CIRCLES. 29

stones are upright, some recumbent, and some almost

buried, while here and there are smaller portions, obvi-
ously pieces broken oiT the large stones by the action o(
frost. The Circle is fairly correct. When the centre
was found by trial, differences in radius of two or
three links were noted here and there as the stones had
fallen inwards or outwards ; but no great irregularity
was found. The diagram given on the next page repre-
sents the positions o{ the stones as indicated bv the angle
subtended at the 'centre. The distances from the
centre are not shown on the plan.

The following are details o( the stones, numbered as
in the diagram : —

No.

Height

Girth.

6 feet

12 feet

3*.,

•3 >>

3 ».

7t >»

3 n

104 ,,

3 »

9£ »»

5 M

Recumbent

5l M

Recumbent

2 „

8i „

—

Recumbent

—

Recumbent

1 1

—

Recumbent

•• 4*n

12 ,,

«3

—

Recumbent

• • 4in

8 „

Recumbent

Almost buried

Recumbent

•• 2*„

8 „

3l».

10 ,,

Almost buried

Recumbent

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Q !

5 3

THE STONE CIRCLES. 31

The mean diameter of the Circle is 130 feet. About
140 yards away in a north-east direction on the slope of a
knowe are two outlying stones just protruding through
the turf. These stones are important, though their
original position is somewhat doubtful. A rough esti-
mate of the number o( stones in the complete Circle
gives 40. It is noteworthy that a similar Circle at Kes-
wick has 38 stones standing and two or three obvious
gaps.

About a third of a mile away in a north-east direction
is another complete circle of 9 stones, together with a
large number o( others somewhat indiscriminately
scattered about, possibly the relics of one or more
similar circles. The 9 stones form a complete Circle of
36 feet diameter. Two of them are under 5 feet in height,
and the rest mere fragments, though clearly in their
original positions. This Circle is absolutely invisible
from the Girdle Stanes, and therefore has no astro-
nomical connection with them, though there may have
been, and in all likelihood were, relations of some other
kind. There is a course of 11 stones placed at intervals
between the two Circles, rudely joining them, but not in
a straight line. The last four of these (nearest the Loupin'
Stanes) form very nearly a straight line in a direction
S. 160 34' E., but no satisfactory significance has been
found for this line.

The meridian was first found by a double observation
of the sun. Then the bearing of the two above men-
tioned outlying stones was ascertained, as they seemed
to be placed as special marks. Next, an inspection of
the horizon was made. No specially distinct peaks were
noticeable, but there were two clearly marked hill-gaps
— that between Holm Craig and Clerk Hill and that of

32 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Thunderbolt Knowe. The bearing o( each of these was
taken along with the height of the horizon. The obser-
vations, corrected for instrumental errors, gave the
following particulars : —

Alignment.

Centre of Girdle Stanes to : — True Azimuth Altitude of Horizon

I. — Holm Craigf — \ XT o 0/ // r- o , „

Clerk Hill Gap} N' 2 ,8 *2 E" T & lo

II. —First outlying stone ... N. 240 4' 58" E. ... 30 32' 30"

III. — Second outlying- stone... N. 35° 7' 2" E. ... 30 37' 20"

IV.— Thunderbolt Knowe) tvt ° ' " -C 00 D< «

Gap } -. N. 74 11 42 E. ... 8 58' o"

With regard to the weight to be attached to these
azimuths the first and last are very accurate, as the Gaps
are clearly defined and at a very considerable distance
(between one and two miles in each case). The two out-
lying stones are only 140 yards away, and their original
position is very indefinite. As only a small patch of
stone is visible it is difficult to say within two yards
where the base of the stone was intended to be. This
implies a considerable error in the azimuths. However,
it is noticeable that a line from the centre of the Circle
to the first outlying stone passes through stone No. 3 of
the Circle. We may consider this as strengthening the
fact that we have a more trustworthy measurement for
Alignment II. than for Alignment III.

The latitude of the centre of the Girdle Stanes is
N. 55° 15' 14"- With this the above Alignments were
then reduced to declinations and a probable interpreta-
tion put upon each.

THE STONE CIRCLES. 33

Alignment
Centre of Girdle Stanes to : Declination. Purpose. Date.

I'"nrln/. Vr'n'^. I ■■■ x- .V)0 46' Arcturus, a warning

Clerk Hill Cap J

II. — First outlying \

stone I

star for August sun- > 1290 B.C.
1 ise.

N. 340 27'... Capella,

Capella, a warning I

star for February sun- Y 1360
rise.

III. — Second outlying! ^ o ,

stone I -33

IV.— Thunderbolt \

Know i' Gap /

N. 1 6° 5' Sun-rise, May 5th and
August 9th.

The sun rises at Thunderbolt Knowe on May 5th and
August 9th each year. In the centuries that have
elapsed since the erection of the Circle there has been
only the very slightest alteration in the sun's motion,
so that what occurs to-day would occur then. This
Alignment was then clearly intended to mark two
quarter days of the agricultural year.

Arcturus rose in the Holm Craig — Clerk Hill Gap, just
before the sun-rise on August 9th, at the period 1290 B.C.
Capella rose just before the sun on February 4th at the
period 1300 B.C. As above-mentioned, the angular
measurements of the first outlying stone are subject to
error, consequently the date 1360 B.C. will be inaccurate.
A glance at the diagram shows that the line from the
centre to the outlying stone passes through the middle
of stone No. 3 but not exactly. In the cases of other
circles it has been noticed that the lines of direction often
pass exactly through the middle of one of the standing
stones. It happens here that stone No. 3 is one that
appears to be in its true position, and though weathered
down to about 3 feet in height, it seems to preserve its
uprightness. Then if we assume that the alignment was
I)

34 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

intended to pass exactly through the middle of this stone,
we may get a more correct value of the azimuth than is
possible from the indefiniteness of the position of the out-
lier. But here again is a source of error, for the sides of
the standing stones are very irregular and may not have
been denuded equally. However, the assumption is worth
considering. The true azimuth of the middle of this
stone is N. 230 26' 22" E. Taking the horizon height, as
before, at 30 32' 30", the declination is N. 340 43'. This
value gives 1310 B.C. as the date of rising of Capella
before the February sun-rise. We may regard this as a
strong confirmation of the date 1290 B.C. given by the
more accurate Alignment I.

Alignment III., if it means anything, must refer also
to Capella warning the February sun-rise at the period
2150 B.C., but without some confirmation we must refuse
to accept this date, and conclude that the correct original
position of the stone has not been found.

It will be noticed that there is a method of marking
the May and August sun-rises, and t4 warning" the
February and August sun-rises In all probability there
would originally be a mark for the November and Feb-
ruary sun-rises, as the latter has a " warning star " indi-
cated, and there would also be an alignment for the
" warning" of the May sun-rise. For the November
sun-rise no u warning stars" have been found indicated
in circles in other parts of this country. It is conjec-
tured that this is because the misty and foggy weather
prevailing during November would frequently prevent
a " warning star" from being seen on the horizon. 0(
these missing marks nothing was seen when the obser-
vations were made. It is likely, however, that a special
search in directions which could be definitely indicated
might result in something more fruitful.

THE STONE CIRCLES 35

From the foregoing it will be clear that this Circle was
erected about the year 1290 B.C. with a two-fold astrono-
mical purpose : —

1. To mark the quarters of the agricultural year.

2. To give the priests an indication beforehand of
the rise of the sun on these quarter days that they might
have ready the appliances of their ritual for the sun's
appearance.

The work of the astronomer-priests would be some-
thing like this : each morning the sun-rise would be
watched from the centre of the Circle, and it would be
observed to creep northward along the horizon till it
approached Thunderbolt Knowe Gap. With a little
experience the priest would be able to estimate when the
sun would exactly appear in that Gap on the following
day. Then an all-night watcher would wait for the ap-
pearance of Arcturus in the Holm Craig — Clerk Hill
Gap. In order that he, in the blackness of night, would
know where to look, a stone with a hollow at the top in
which burning oil was placed, would be erected as one
member of the Circle. This member would be, as the
diagram shows, between stones 1 and 2 where there is
clearly a stone missing. At the appearance of the star
all the community would be called and everything put
in readiness for the sun-rise, when a high festival would
be held ; and the announcement would go forth that this
was the first day of summer, i.e., the first day of the
summer of the agricultural year, May 5th. Then the
sun-rise would travel north until Midsummer Day and
return southward to Thunderbolt Knowe Gap, when
there would be a repetition of similar events, the warn-
ing coming this time from another star and another
direction, the mark of which has not been discovered.

36 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

This would be August 8th, the first day of autumn.
The same would occur in other directions in November
and February, so that the Circle of Stones with outlying
marks would be sufficient for the complete determination
of the seasons of the year, as well as the special require-
ments of their religious observances.

One cannot but admire the intelligence and ingenuity
of the early race who, so long ago, erected a contrivance
at once so simple and so clever. To arrange the Circle
and put up outliers to mark special directions is com-
paratively easy ; to put up a Circle in such a position
that one of the natural features of the horizon may be used
to mark an alignment is more difficult. But to find the
exact spot where the irregularities of the horizon mark
two alignments is a problem requiring remarkable pene-
tration and acuteness, for in no other spot whatever but
the one chosen could the Clerk Hill Gap and the Thun-
derbolt Knowe Gap both be used for the purposes
indicated."

It will be noticed from the results obtained by Mr.
Goldsbrough that the Girdle Stanes Circle had this
peculiar and singular feature, — that its builders, by their
intelligent and careful choice of the site were enabled to
utilize for their astronomical purposes, not one only but
two of the natural features of the locality. Sir Norman
Lockyer commented upon this unusual fact and desired
to be furnished with more precise details. These were
supplied, to Sir Norman's satisfaction. This indication
of careful planning and selection considerably increases
the archaeological importance of the Circle.

It is of interest to note that the worship of the May-
year sun, indicated by Mr. Goldsbrough's investigations

THE STONE CIRCLES. 37

at the Girdle Stanes, was not only common to the
builders of the early British circles but was also ex-
tensively used in Egypt, Babylon, and Greece. The
earliest Temple thus aligned was that of Ptah, at Mem-
phis, 52OO B.C.*

The Circles, as centres of religious influence and also
of legal administration, lasted into the Christian era.
When this clearer day dawned churches were often built
upon the sites of ancient circles, as in the case of the
earliest Christian building on Iona. Possibly it was this
which gave birth to the title of '• The Stones," as applied
to a church. It is said that even yet in secluded parishes
the question is asked, " Are you going to the Stones? "
What we have later called " Circle-ism," a strongly
hybrid faith and practice, percolated down into the
early Church, and very drastic steps had to be taken to
stamp out some of the practices brought in by the con-
verts, even as was done in Corinth and Colosse.

Of these ancient monuments, whether in Egypt or
Eskdalemuir, we now see but the architecture, and of it
only a small portion, — we guess and debate about the
vanished. And so much has gone ! No longer does
the gleam from the rising sun touch the stone o( mystery,
or, flashing upon a priestly emblem, is it hailed as a
message from the gods ; no longer is the "warning star "
watched for up in the Eskdale hills, or the sun acclaimed
as the only deity as it touches the Thunderbolt Knowe
on some bright May morning — Temple and Girdle
Stanes have lost their glory and are dead ! Their
ruins we see, but where are the thought and purpose that
gave them form, the life that made each, not a silent

* Stonehenge , p. 304.

38 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

relic of a far-off day, but an intense reality amongst
sentient, intelligent beings? What manner of men were
those who, spurred by some commanding purpose or
impulse, reared these stones? What they said and did,
what they laughed or wept over, what hopes they nursed,
what dreams they dreamt, what was their poetry or their
song, what aspirations moved them to action, how they
occupied the long summer days or the dark winter
nights when the snow drifted deep on Eskdalemuir, what
crises stirred them to passion — personal, tribal, or re-
ligious— all these would be of deepest interest to us now,
but alas, we know not nor can know. We gaze upon
the ruins which Time has left us, and imagination alone
can re-clothe them with the evidences of life and activity
— after all enquiry and wondering they are still but Stone
Circles among the quiet Eskdale hills !

CHAPTKR II.

THE RELIGIOUS PURPOSES OF THE CIRCLES.

IN his notes on the Girdles Stanes Mr. Goldsbrough
mentioned that the circles had a religious as well
as an astronomical purpose. Various are the conjec-
tures which have been made as to the object of those
ancient builders. Most writers agree to the religious
element, and various cognate purposes are suggested.
Lord Avebury* thinks the circles were utilized for pur-
poses of sepulture. This is not improbable, but cer-
tainly the suggestion does not apply to the Girdle
Stanes. Nature itself has come to the proof of this,
for the Ksk, changing its course since those far off days
when the Cote was the centre of the life and light of
Eskdale, has washed away nearly half of the soil on
which the Girdle Stanes stand, tumbling the stones
into the river-bed, magnificently oblivious to the ruin it
made, but no evidence of sepulture has been revealed.

That, if the circles were not primarily designed for
religious ceremonial, they were at least utilized in this
way, is accepted by all writers of authority. The popu-
lar view that Druidical worship was afterwards cele-
brated in the circles is probably true in a general way.
Most of our knowledge of the Druids is derived from
Caesar, and what he has not supplied has been in-
geniously invented by writers whose gifts lay like those
of the great physiologist in constructing a whole body
from a bone ! For example, it has been confidently

* Prehistoric Times, p. 106.

4o LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

declared that these Nature worshippers had certain
clearly defined views as to certain religious truths. The
circle, these writers say, was used because it represented
eternity, — without beginning of days or end of years.
It is much more probable that it represented nothing at
all beyond being an imitation of the horizon which was
so intimately related to the worship of the day. But
the Druids did not flourish until many centuries after
most of these circles were built, and we must look
farther back into the misty past to discover the original
purpose of the builders.

The elaborate design of many of the larger monu-
ments, such as at Carnac in Brittany, Stonehenge and
Avebury in Wiltshire, and Challacombe Down, where
there had existed an "avenue" of upright stones of
eight rows, three of which still remain, supports the
argument that the circles had a religious and ceremonial
significance. That this was so with the great Temples
of the East is of course known and accepted. The
difference between them with their ornate architecture
and the rugged plainness of the stone circles is one of
degree only. In purpose and primary design they were
in harmony. Not only were those monuments in Egypt
and Syria oriented to the sun or some prominent star,
but so also were both the great British circles already
mentioned, and even the smaller circles, hardly noticed
except by the antiquarian, scattered throughout this
country. It is a fair deduction, then, from their being
constructed on the same astronomical and mathematical
principles, that these small stone circles were meant to
serve the same ends as the more magnificent piles.
These large stone temples have been likened to the
great cathedrals of to-day. If the simile holds good

THE RELIGIOUS PURPOSES.

then the rude circles of unhewn, un shape n stone, lying
far on many a lonely hill, will represent the simple
country churches, plain and unadorned, suitable for plain
folk. Hut the distinction between the astronomical pur-
pose and the religious is made only as a concession to
our own mental processes, for in practice they were in-
separable. The astronomical purpose was the religious :
the ceremonial observances were virtually the ritual
whereby the astronomical ideas were expressed.

THE LOUPIN' STANES.
Mr. Goldsbrough found no evidence that there had
been any astronomical relationship between the Girdle
Stanes and the Loupin' Stanes. From no point can
one be seen from the other, so that any astronomical
connection seems unlikely. The incomplete observa-
tions made at the Loupin' Stanes indicate that, in all
probability, it was considerably the older Circle. A

42 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

simple and ready explanation of the two Circles being
so near each other yet apparently unrelated, would be
that the Loupin' Stanes having served its purpose or
proved inconvenient, like some old kirk, was abandoned
for a larger and better site some six hundred yards away !
But the evidences seem to indicate that, for some pur-
poses, at any rate, there was a relationship between the
two Circles. In many instances such monuments were
double, and were often connected by a line or "avenue "
of upright stones, which did not always stand in a line
directly straight.* Whether there was a single or double
line of stones in the " avenue " between these two Circles
cannot be said until a careful survey has been made. The
theodolite and the link-chain have a curious habit of set-
tling these disputed points and spoiling many a charming
theory — without regrets or apologies ! But this much
may safely be said : if an " avenue " existed between the
Loupin' Stanes and the Girdle Stanes, as appearances
suggest, it was probably for ceremonial rather than for
astronomical purposes. The accompanying rough plan
illustrates the relative positions of both circles and con-
necting stones. It does not profess to indicate the exact
position of each stone in the "avenue," but it gives, in
the absence of a more careful survey, the general position
of the monuments.

To the prehistoric inhabitants of Eskdale, as to other
races geographically far removed from them, the cele-
brations to which Mr. Goldsbrough has referred as con-
nected with the progression of the seasons, were the
expressions of those feelings which to-day in ourselves
assume the form of adoration, reverence, prayer, and
spiritual rejoicing.

* At Merrivale, e.g\, the " avenue" has a distinct change of direction
— what Sir Norman Lockyer calls "a kink." — Stonehenge , p. 161.

THE RELIGIOUS PURPOSES.

A VOUCH PLAN

rue cs,une at ire/nti

CUVHUT/Aia THL TWO Cl*tl£ 3

\ «/»*t^ rTANCi

44 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

In other words the religious observances at the Cote
were a phase of that Nature worship which in one form
or another is common to primitive peoples. But to
the builders of those great stone monuments scattered
throughout the world, and of the plain circles set up in
the fastnesses of the hills, that worship had in some
degree been systematized and was offered, not without
rigid forms and ceremonies. Probably it approximated
to that form of religion which was practised in the days
whose history is recorded in the Books of Kings and
Chronicles — that is, it was a mixture of Nature worship
and Baalism, a hybrid compound of Phoenician and
Assyrian religions with, no doubt, much of local pagan-
ism and perhaps barbarity superadded.

To many races, various in language and habitation,
Baal, or some such deity, was the representative of the
energizing and fertilizing processes of nature, and sun
worship was the form it readily assumed. Some of the
superstitions and practices still lingering in certain dis-
tricts of these Islands, such for instance as the oft-quoted
Beltane ceremonies at Callander, are traceable to this
Baal worship. " Baal's-fire " was associated with May
Day, as representing the energy and power of the sum-
mer sun, and as Mr. Goldsbrough shows that May Day
was a "high day" at the Girdle Stanes, it is more
than probable that some of the ceremonial with which
sun-rise on that day was greeted by the astronomer-priest
and his rude congregation was similar to, if not identical
with, the practices connected with Baal worship, which
were so unflinchingly condemned by the prophets of
Israel and Judah. The voice of Elijah, or of Amos or
Hosea, would scarcely penetrate to the Eskdale valley,
and neither history nor legend gives a hint of any re-
former appearing at the Girdle Stanes.

THE RELIGIOUS PURPOSES. 45

Sir Norman Lockyer shows in his Stonehenge that the

main- legends, customs, and superstitions which have
lived so long in Scotland, were in great part due to the
rites and practices observed by the tribes who built these
circles. These superstitions and customs survived
through the Celtic age down into the early Church,
which adopted many observances and gave them Chris-
tian symbolism. The prevalence still in Scotland o( a
May-November year, Sir Norman argues, is a trace of a
custom originated by the astronomer-priests in the re-
ligious celebrations at the old stone circles, and so are
some of the observances and customs, which linger still
in rural districts, connected with the seasons of the year,
the sowing or reaping of crops, and the various celebra-
tions of country life.

Associated with this worship of the sun and stars was
the veneration of rivers, wells, and trees. One can
readily sympathize with the impulse o( an untutored
race to regard the Esk as sacred — many Eskdale men
and women of to-day tend to the same sweet faith !
And in a district covered as Eskdale would then be, by
great primeval forests, there would naturally arise a like
impulse towards the veneration of trees. The stone
circles were generally erected beside a well or river, and
near the well, in later years at any rate, there was a tree
on which the votive offerings were hung. This custom or
rite belonged more to the Celtic era than the one under
review, but the practice arose through the association of
rivers and wells with the circles. When the Druids
rose to power the veneration of the oak was a part of
their ceremonial, and it is interesting to note that in
Scotland the object of veneration was not the oak but
the rowan and the hawthorn. Without doubt the place

46 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

these trees have taken in the romantic literature of the
country is the result of this ancient veneration. And to
the same source may be traced the old custom of having
a rowan tree near a dwelling house, from which it
warded off the evil spirits that haunted wood and hill
and glade.

In investigating any religious system which in past
generations made an appeal to Scottish sympathy, one
naturally expects to find that it afforded considerable
scope for secessions and disruptions. Whether the
special form of Nature worship prevailing at the Cote
whilst perhaps Joshua was commanding the sun to stand
still upon Gibeon, or the moon in the valley of Ajalon,
— a worship which may not inaptly be termed ki Circle-
ism" — offered facilities for schism or controversy, tradi-
tion and history alike are silent. But a solution of the
questions raised by the grouping of circles in Eskdale,
— two at the Cote, another at Westerker, and possibly
others scattered here and there along the valley of the
Esk, — may lie in the reputed tendency of our Scots
people to "split" into sects, each hanging to some
subtle dogma, separated by gossamer threads which
have the strength of steel. Could these additional
circles arise through the adoption by the parent
congregation of some advanced ceremonial or some
daring innovation which staunch old Circle-ites re-
sisted resolutely and long ? We can almost picture
some of our pagan forefathers imbued with that sturdy
spirit of ecclesiastical freedom which is the heritage of
us to-day, trudging dourly over the hills to Whitcastles
or to Nine Stane Rig, there to obtain that purity of
worship, that untainted Circle-ism, which, alas, seemed
unobtainable at the Cote !

CHAPTER III.

STANDING STONES.

OUR consideration o( this branch of the prehistoric
antiquities of Eskdale naturally forms itself
along two main lines. First, the relation o( standing
stones to the stone circles, and next, their significance
as memorial stones or monuments.

Standing stones are found in great numbers both in
these Islands and throughout the world. They are very
frequently found associated with stone temples or
circles, to which they are related in a very important
way. It is frequently found that comparatively near to
almost every circle there is at least one large outlying
stone, and various conjectures have been launched to
explain its presence. The Druidical theory of the
circles embodied an assumption that human sacrifice
was associated with the religious ceremonial. This by
no means unlikely assumption, for it is little more, found
support in the presence of these stones, and to them was
given the designation of Sl slaughter stones." Obviously
this explanation could not include all such outlying
stones even when found in association with circles, for
some of the stones were obelisk shaped, and wholly
unsuitable as slaughter or altar stones. If the latter were
really a necessary part of the circle services, they would
just as reasonably be placed in the centre of the circle.
The 44 slaughter stone " theory elearly did not meet the
requirements of the case, and some other explanation
had to be found.

This has been supplied by Sir Norman Lockyer and

48 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

others, who have demonstrated that these outlying stones
near stone circles were part of the arrangements used
by the astronomer-priests in their observations of the
heavenly bodies. By them was obtained the "align-
ment " from the centre of the circle to a point on the
horizon where, say, a star would appear at its rising.
They served the same purpose as the foresight of a rifle
and, it may be added, were always as accurately adjusted
as it, for the desired purpose. Thus the standing, or
outlying stone was a very important factor in the deter-
mination of a date by the " orientation " method.

Lord Avebury regards the standing stones and stone
circles as part of one common plan,* most of them being
tombs. Even those which were temples, he thinks, were
associated with interments. But Lockyer's theory has the
merit of differentiating these various monuments, and of
being supported by observations and definite astronomi-
cal results.

There are very few of these standing stones extant
in Eskdale. In his survey of the Girdle Stanes Mr.
Goldsbrough mentions two, both of which seemed
to have been used to mark alignments from the centre
of the Circle. Two others may be mentioned. One is
in the Thunderbolt Knowe Gap, and is seen just pro-
truding through the turf. It was probably set up to
emphasise the use of the Gap to mark an alignment.
The other is a large recumbent stone in the garden at
Cote, lying nearly south of the Girdle Stanes. Whether
originally it also was used to mark an alignment cannot
now be determined. Undoubtedly there would be other
stones in a north-easterly direction. Mr. A. L. Lewis, t in

* Prehistoric Times, p. 103.
\ Journal, Anthropological Institute, quoted in Lockyer's Stonehenge,
P- 35-

STANDING STONES. 49

his investigations o( Scottish stone circles, found a great
preponderance of outlying stones and o( hill tops lying

between the circles and the north-east quarter o( the
horizon. Probably owing to weathering and agricultural
operations (the ground within and around the Girdle
Stanes is under cultivation) some o\ these outliers have
disappeared from the neighbourhood o\ the Eskdale
circles.

Where the standing stones are near to circles their
use for aligning is intelligible, but over all the hill dis-
tricts there are considerable numbers of stones which
could never have been put to such use, and to account
for these some other explanation must be suggested.

The meaning attaching to most of these standing-
stones is that they are memorials of persons or of great
events in the life of the district. And in this connection
they are a most instructive and interesting illustration of
the changes which the centuries have produced in the
grouping o^ the population. Doubtless many of these
stones were set up where they would be frequently seen
by those to whom their significance appealed, and we
receive the suggestion that what is now a lonely and
deserted moorland must once upon a time have been
peopled with considerable communities.

Standing stones set up to commemorate some notable
event or achievement are common in all countries, bar-
barian as well as civilized. Indeed, the untutored savage
seems to have had precisely the same instinct as the
civilized man. Livingstone, Mungo Park, and other
travellers frequently noticed standing stones both singly
and in groups or circles, in the heart of Africa.

The practice was a common one with the ancient Jews.

The Old Testament abounds in references to these me-
E

So LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

morials. When Jacob made his famous agreement with
La ban, he " took a stone and set it up for a pillar" on
Mount Gilead, and their retainers set up a heap of stones,
— a cairn, as evidence and witness to the compact. In-
deed, it was a favourite method of commemoration with
Jacob — he found a great satisfaction in thus marking his
red-letter days with some seal, the sight of which would
awaken many a wonderful memory and cause him to
re-live again those events which had so seized hold of
his sensitive imagination — a custom which in this age
of materialism might be oftener observed ! Naturally,
then, after his immortal Dream among the boulders of
Bethel, " he took the stone that he had put for his pillow
and set it up for a pillar and poured oil upon the top of
it." And when in after days " he went softlier, sadlier
for that Dream's sake," the thought of that standing
stone at Bethel would help to keep his experience clear
and sharp. We read, too, of Ebenezer, the stone set up
by Samuel ; of the stone set up where the Ark had rested ;
of the Stone of Ezel, "which sheweth the way" ; and
of the Stone of Zoheleth — all of them apparently well
known landmarks.

Between two and three hundred yards over the hill
from the stone in the Thunderbolt Knowe Gap, men-
tioned on page 48, there is a somewhat remarkable
stone. It stands erect about two feet out of the turf,
though obviously its length when set up would be
greater. In shape it is a rectangular prism, surmounted
by a triangulated prism, and clearly gives the impression
of having been wrought. It is quite invisible from the Esk
valley — which fact dissociates it from the circles there.
On one side of the stone are what look like markings,
but owing to weathering it is now impossible to trace

STANDING STONES. 51

them with sufficient clearness to determine whether
the stone belongs to the class, such as the famous
11 Cat-Stanes"* found in various districts, set up to com-
memorate some great battle, which Professor Simpson
describes in his hook on the inscribed stones of Scotland.

Apart from those near the circles at the Cote there are
now very few standing stones in Eskdale. There is
one within the policies of Castle O'er, a little to the west
of Cleve Sike. Possibly it may have had some connec-
tion with the cairn on Airdswood Moss, about a mile
away and almost due west. But we can only conjecture,
— the centuries have engraven no record of its meaning.

Another known as the St. Thorwald's Stone, a modern
designation of course, stood below St. Thorwald's on- the
bank of the Esk, on the spot now known as Land's End.
This was one of the most valuable archaeological relics
in the district, but unfortunately it has been destroyed —
by vandals who probably found it in their way when
building a dyke ! It stood until well within the memory
of some still living, who speak of a curious practice in
connection with it. Some old superstition had appar-
ently attached itself to it, for children as they passed it
deemed it a right and proper thing to spit upon it in con-
tempt and derision, — a custom whose origin it is now
impossible to trace. If the legend be accepted that
Thor the Long had a cell near what we now call the
Thief Stane Quarry, then perhaps the stone became
associated with him, though why this should create a
superstitious dislike is hard to conjecture.

From the name of Standing Stone Edge being given
to the eastern slope of the hills above the old Inn at Cal-

* From Celtic Cath , a battle.

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

lister Ha', part o( the ridge separating Annandale from
Eskdale, we may assume that at one time a similar stone
stood there. Near to it to the northward was Kitty's
Cairn, and others un-named, and these, stone and
cairns, would probably have some connection as we
suggest there was at Airdswood Moss.

The best example of the standing stones in the Esk-
dale district is that at Meikledale in Ewes, locally known
as " The Grey Wether," a print of which is here
given. It is about 5 feet in height and its girth is 8 feet
7 inches, and it would probably weigh about two tons.

"THE GREY WETHER."

The stone is the common greywacke, or whinstone of
the Silurian series, rough and unhewn. It stands in the
centre of a field in front of Meikledale House, and can
be seen from the highway. The field is surrounded by

STANDING STONES. 53

hills on every side, and this situation for the ereetion of
the stone may possibly have been chosen because of its
Striking natural beauty, — a fitting site whereon to per-
petuate the memory of some great event in Ewesdale.

The most aeceptable explanation of these stones is that
they were set up to celebrate and commemorate some
battle, some notable victory won by the primitive tribes-
men of the Eskdale valley. Against whom were such
battles fought? It might be that all these memorials
had their genesis, not in the dim centuries B.C., when
the circles were focal points of Eskdale, but in the later
centuries, amidst the legend and romance of the Arthu-
rian period, the early part of the sixth century. May
they not have been erected in simple memory of battles
fought and victories won when Arthur was leading
the early Christians of Strathclyde against the pagan
Saxons? Who can tell?

As the centuries passed, such standing stones, so
long the only effort, silent and feeble, to chronicle the
history of the generation, were adopted by the early
Church as Christian symbols. From the rough unsculp-
tured obelisk was evolved the richly sculptured cross
and the inscribed stone, and from them also came the
idea of all our monuments, from the rude tombstone
in a country church-yard, keeping green the memory of
a simple life, to the most ornate memorial of the mighty
dead. In this connection mention may here be made of
the Ruthwell Cross, which dates to the ninth century,
and to the Bewcastle Cross, — two of the earliest extant
Christian monuments in the British Isles, neither of
them quite within the bounds of Eskdale, but both so
near as to point to the important part taken by the dis-
trict in the development of Christian Art.

54 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

In after years of tumult and strife the standing
stones became the points to which the clansmen rallied.
Justice was not infrequently dispensed in open-air courts
held at a standing stone, even as it was for long years
dispensed at the circles. As an example of this, reference
may here be made to the famous Lochmaben Stone ;
an immense boulder probably dropped by the ice. It
stands about a mile south of Sark Foot on the farm of
Old Graitney, almost on the site 01 what is said to have
been a stone circle. There, the Wardens of the West
March held their courts and arbitrations during the
troublous days that afterwards came upon the Borders.

Being a prominent land mark a standing stone was
naturally enough chosen as a boundary mark, and in
many an old charter or lease the limits of an estate are
described by reference to it. It became the site of many
sacred covenants, from the anointing of kings to the
delimitation of boundaries.

CHAPTER IV.

CAIRNS AND BARROWS.

NOT infrequently there were associated with the
stone circles barrows or tumuli, or, in Scotland,
cairns. That these were often contemporaneous with, or
even earlier in date than, the circles themselves, is shown
by their having been utilized to indicate alignments from
a circle to the horizon. This is especially applicable to
many of the monuments in Wiltshire and Cornwall,
and also that of Stennis, in Orkney, where the align-
ments from the Stones of Stennis are obtained not only to
outlying stones, but also to the large, chambered barrow,
or tumulus, known as Maeshowe.

Archaeologists date the circles to the Stone Age, a
view supported by astronomical investigations, and Lord
Avebury* is of the opinion that most of the tumuli of
western Europe, including those of the British Isles,
were constructed during the same period.

These sepulchral monuments are found in almost all
countries, and though they exhibit local characteristics
they all belong to the same order. In Scotland they
most often assume the form of stone cairns, though
tumuli are also found. In all cases these cairns or
mounds were places of burial, and far away in the misty
years of the Stone Age the affections and regrets of people
would cling around them. To us they are but archae-
ological items. We examine their contents without
sentiment, and hold debate over the poor skulls they con-

* Prehistoric Times.

56 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

tained, measuring them from a to b, and drawing conclu-
sions on their measurements, comparing them, but gene-
rally forgetting the brain once contained therein, or the
human heart that moved in harmony with it. We pull
down the stones of the place of their sepulture, cart them
away for road metal, or to build dykes and byres, esteeming
the little necessities o( the moment of more import than
these venerable relics left from a far off age of the world's
childhood. We smile and crack jokes about the punc-
tilious regard and veneration of the heathen Chinee for
his ancestors, but perhaps our own instincts and senti-
ments would be made worthier by a flavouring of that
same heathen feeling.

Usually the cairn was but a heap of stones thrown up
to mark the last resting place of some chieftain or warrior,
but not infrequently it revealed an elaborate if not actu-
ally a symbolic design. A like practice was observed by
the ancient Jews. When the King of Ai died he was
buried under a heap of stones, and the same honour was
paid to Absalom. The importance of the person buried
was often indicated by the size of the cairn, which
doubtless gave rise to the compliment, " I will add a
stone to your cairn."

Many such cairns must have at one time existed in
Eskdale, but few now remain. There was a very large
one at Langholm close to where the roadway between
Stubholm and Murtholm dips into the plantation, and
almost on the old Roman road leading from Broomholm
towards Calfield. This cairn was stupidly demolished,
as so many of those ancient monuments have been, to
afford material for building purposes. The stones were
used to build some of the cottages o( what is now Caroline

CAIRNS AND BARROWS. 57

Street.' Indeed, the identical houses given in the illus-
tration in Pan I V. w ere in all probability built of the stones

of this cairn. It is said that an urn or cist, then popularly

supposed, as all these relies were, to he Roman, was
found under the cairn, but whether the urn contained
cine rated remains, and whether any bones were dis-
covered, there are now no means of ascertaining.

Traces exist, too, a little to the north of Standing Stone
Edge, near Cal lister Ha', of an ancient cairn. On the
Ordnance Map this is named l< Kitty's Cairn,"' and its
situation is at the head of Kitty's Cleuch. The name
is probably derived from the British Cad, or Celtic Cat/i,
44 a battle place." Some years ago a flint spearhead was
found by a workman making a drain at this place. Near
to the cairn, and overlooking it, is the largest of the three
camps or hill forts which had existed in this neighbour-
hood, and it is possible that there may have been some
connection between them.

On the hill to the west of Westwater farm three cairns
have been found, but all of them had been previously
disturbed. The principal one contained a cist, of which
an illustration is here given, made of four whinstone slabs
set on edge and lying north-east and south-west. It mea-
sures three feet two inches in length, one foot six inches in
width, and one foot three inches in depth. From these
measurements it will be seen that any body it may have
contained must have been buried in a sitting posture, as

* We have this on the personal authority of an old man who conld
recall the circumstances, and who remembered the laying1 out of the
Meikleholm farm foi the building of the new town of Langholm between
1 770 and 1800.

t Cp. " Kits Coity House " iii Kent. This was a cromlech rather than
a caini, consisting of three upright stones, similar to the cromlechs at
Avebury and Stanton Drew. The similarity of name is probably only a
coincidence hut is worth noting.

5«

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

WESTWATER CIST.

the ancient custom was. The Cist was very carefully
examined by Mr. J. M. Ellis, of Westwater, but he
only found a few fragments of calcined bone.

About one hundred yards north of this cairn and a
little lower on the hill are the remains of two other
cairns, which had also been disturbed. A hill near
the fort is called Raes Knowes,* or " Kings" Knowes,
but probably this name would be originally given to the
hill on which the three cairns stood.

* From Celtic Rac, a king-, or Rae , a battle.

CAIRNS AND BARROWS. 59

At the Camp-Knowes, in Ewes, so-called it is said, from

its being a camping place of James V. when he was on
his way to Caerlin Rig to entrap the Armstrongs, there
was a stone cist found containing human remains, which
crumbled to dust on being exposed to the air. Flints,
arrow heads, and stone knives were found near by, in con-
siderable quantities, indicating that the discoveries were
referable to the Stone Age.

On the hill behind Old Irvine there are several small
cairns, one however, much larger than the others. None
of these have been opened.

The most important cairn of the Eskdale valley was
undoubtedly that on Airdswood Moss, between the lands
oi Castle O'er and Billholm. It was disturbed in 1828
—a new march-dyke between the two estates was needed,
and this ancient landmark, reverently built up by Esk-
dale men possibly two thousand years ago, was irrever-
ently demolished to supply the temporary necessities of
a stone-dyker ! It is useless at this date to censure such
vandalism or the desecration that followed it. Similar
outrages have been perpetrated all over the land, and the
Government obtained its powers to preserve these monu-
ments too late to save many from wanton destruction.

The cairn "consisted, as usual, of a heap of loose stones
surrounded by larger ones closely set together, forming
a regular circle fifty-four feet in diameter. Its form, how-
ever, was singular. For about fourteen feet from the
inner side of the encircling stones it rose gradually, but
above this the angle of elevation abruptly changed, and
the centre was formed into a steep cone. Directly under-
neath this a cist was found, lying north and south, com-
posed of six large unhewn stones and measuring in the
interior four feet two inches in greatest length, with a

6o LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

depth of two feet. It contained only human bones, in-
dicating a person o( large stature laid with the head to-
wards the north. But the further demolition of the cairn
disclosed a curious example of regular internal construc-
tion on a systematic plan. From the four corners of the
central cist there extended in the form o( a St. Andrew's
Cross* rows of stones overlapping each other, like the
slating of a house. At the extremity of one of these,
about fourteen feet from the central chamber, another cist
was found of corresponding structure and dimensions,
but laid at right angles to the radiating row of stones.
Another is said to have been found at the extremity of
one of the opposite limbs of the cross, and most prob-
ably the whole four were originally conjoined to corre-
sponding cists, but a considerable portion of one side of
the cairn had been removed before attention was directed
to the subject. Between the limbs of the cross a quan-
tity of bones in a fragmentary state were strewn about.
Such a disposition of a group of cists under a large cairn,
though rare, is not without a parellel, and may perhaps
be characteristic of a class. "+

Mr. Belli says that no fewer than 150 cartloads of
stones were taken from the cairn, whose site can still be
identified. A thigh bone of the skeleton was taken to
Castle O'er but it mysteriously disappeared, the result of
a practical joke, it is supposed. A tooth was also pre-
served, concerning which a local poet, William Park,
wrote some verses. No mention is made by any of the

A tumulus, or barrow, in the shape of a St. Andrew's Cross was
also discovered in Picardy. — Scottish Gael, Vol. II., p. 10.

These cruciform cairns, or barrows, are considered as belonging to
the Stone Age.

1 Dumfries Journal, June 24th, 1828; MS. communication Soc. Antiq.
Scot. Andrew Brown, Esq., and read March, 1829. Quoted in Wilson's
Prehistoric Annals of Scotland, Vol. I. pp, 88-89.
X My Strange Pels, p. 307.

CAIRNS AND BARROWS. 61

writers o( the shape and size of the crania o( these
skeletons, nor any details given which might enable the
archaeologist to determine the approximate age to which
they belonged.

The Airdswood Moss cairn was locally known as
" King Shaw's Grave." The tradition is that a battle
between the Picts and the Scots was fought near by, and
that, fleeing, the Pictish King was drowned in the deep
pool, known since as the kk King's Pool," at the junction
o( the Black and White Esks. His body, it is added,
was afterwards recovered and was given a chieftain's
burial — and the great cairn on Airdswood Moss was
reared above him in honour of his deeds and renown,
and that the Shaw Rig", one of the wildest hillsides in
all the Ksk valley, was named after him. A pretty trad-
ition— but unfortunately it will not bear examination.
Pictish history records no King Shaw. The name is
Norse rather than Celtic. The above particulars of the
cairn do not bear out the story of the drowning. To
account for the name " King Pool" it would probably
be nearer the truth to connect it with the visit to Esk-
dale paid by King James IV. in 1504, when he came
with a great retinue, partly to hunt, and partly to over-
awe the turbulent Eskdale men into submission to his
royal will. The name of Bailey Hill which, gaunt and
bare, overlooks the Esk just round the spur of the hill,
suggests the site of a " town," where once an old British
hill-fort stood. And Mr. Bell tells us* that on Hand-
fasting Haugh, down at the confluence of the waters,
the foundations of old buildings may still be seen. Max-
it not then be that King James halted here in his toil-

My Strange Pets, p. 307.

62 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

some journey and that the pool is named in his honour?
An explanation more probable still is that suggested by
Mr. John Reid, that "king" is a corruption of ccanu,
the Celtic for head. " King Pool " would then mean
the 4l head pool " of the united Esks. The traditional
story is the prettiest, but unfortunately it seems to melt
away under the white light.

There was also a cairn on the farm of Craighaugh.
It, too, has been scattered and no trace left of its con-
tents. In the Ordnance Map o( 1861 the site is marked
as that of a tumulus, a term which unfortunately seems
indiscriminately used to designate those ancient sepul-
chral monuments. On the 1861 Map there is also
marked a cist at Garvvald House.

There was another at Sorbie, in the plantation near
the Ewes Road, where the meagre remnants' of it may
still be seen, for alas it, too, was despoiled — to provide
the trustees with road metal. Whilst the spoliation was
in progress it is said a stone coffin was found. Where it
is now no man knoweth, probably it is being utilized
about some of the farm buildings !

Distinct from the stone cairns, yet possibly of equal
antiquity, are the prehistoric mounds or barrows. In
the Tarras valley there are two of these mounds. One}
on the farm of Bogg, is a large symmetrical cone.* It is
called the " Counter's-Seat," their being a tradition that
the old Border raiders were accustomed to halt here to
do their accounting — which, one has often thought, must,
in a large and successful raid, have proved a somewhat
complicated and delicate undertaking.

* Conical barrows were, centuries later, adopted at public meeting-
places, as at Silbury. They were termed Moot hills. The name still
lingers in the Moot Halls in some of our oldest towns, and in the
word " moot " meaning to discuss.

CAIRNS AND BARROWS. 63

The other mound, this time oblong in shape, is at
Rashiel, on the eastern side of Whita Hill, as it slopes
down into Tarras Water. Whether these, like those at
Airdswood Moss and elsewhere, were actually and with-
out doubt places of sepulture, has not as vet been
definitely proved. Excavations might possibly bring to
light some valuable relies.

The fact that these mounds at Bogg and Rashiel differ
in shape, points to their having been made at dates con-
siderably distant from each other. If the Rashiel mound
should ever be found to contain human remains, thev
would probably belong- to the Stone Age, whereas, if such
be found in the round barrow at Bogg, they would refer
to a later, the Bronze Age.

CHAPTER V.

THK HILL FORTS.

FEW branches of archaeological research have pro-
vided more interest, or excited more discussion,
than the ancient hill forts, so characteristic of Scotland
generally and of the Borders in a very marked degree.*
Next to the stone monuments these forts are perhaps
the most definite indications now existing of the con-
ditions prevailing in those early days. Our primitive
forefathers threw up those strongholds mostly for pur-
poses o( defence. This defence was effective both
against the wild animals which lurked in hill and wood
and gill, and also against the surprises and incursions of
invaders. The position of some of these forts on the
lower slopes of high hills has suggested the theory that
defence was not their primary purpose, seeing they
would be so open to attack from above. But this is an
argument equally strong against their being the ordinary
dwelling places of the tribes.

Our present subject touches the centuries immediately
preceding the Christian era and possibly those following.
This was an age when historical data became available,
though not for some centuries yet were the materials
definite or reliable. The inhabitants of the Britain of
this period were Celtic. The old settlers who had built
the stone circles had gone — dispossessed by a later-

* In his Military Antiquities of the Romans in Great Britain, General
Roy describes some of the Kskdale forts.

Dr. Wilson says that many of these old hill forts were contemporary
with the Stone Age. — Prehistoric Annals, Vol. II. p. 87, — but general
opinion places them at a much later date.

THE MILL FORTS. 65

migration o( westward-moving peoples. It is to this early
Celtic race that the hill forts are attributed — the race
that opposed so splendidly the overpowering legions of

Caesar. It seems clear that, when the Romans came, they
found that the Celtic tribes were not undisciplined bar-
barians, as is often assumed, but that they followed certain
principles of warfare and systems of offence and defence.
Amongst the latter were these fortifications on the hills,
which afforded so many natural advantages to the people
attacked. The Romans themselves seem to have been
considerably impressed by the fortifications of the
Britons, which are referred to in the works of Caesar
with something akin to admiration.

This fact seems to indicate that most of the forts, at
any rate, were British, but it appears natural and feasible
that, as the Romans slowly forced their way into the
Scottish lowlands, they would utilize the places of
defence vacated by the vanquished, if for no other
reason than this, that they occupied the best strategic
positions.

They seem in this way to have utilized the great fort
known as •' Lyddal's Strength," or '■ The Mote," near
to Riddings Junction — one of the most important forti-
fications in the south of Scotland, corresponding in some
degree to those at Castle O'er. Historians* tell us that
there was an iter or way from The Mote to the
Roman Camp at Netherby, clearly suggesting that as the
Romans drove out the tribesmen they themselves adopted
The Mote as part of their system of fortifications.

So far as the Eskdale fortifications are concerned the
principal of them are admittedly British. The evidences

* Hutchinson's History of Cumberland, Vol. III., p. 529.
K

66 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

of any prolonged or effective occupation of Eskdale by
the Romans are meagre. It was their custom to throw
up earthworks, similar in nature to the British mounds,
even if they encamped only for one night, but the forti-
fications of Eskdale, especially those in the Castle O'er
area, are not isolated entrenchments hastily constructed,
and as hastily abandoned, but form a large correlated
system.

Few valleys show such a network of those hill forts
and trenches as Eskdale does. The Ordnance Map shows
no fewer than forty-one forts, none of them, as far as
known, being of the vitrified type which has so puzzled
both archaeologists and military writers. They are
generally found to follow the course of the river valleys
which they strategically command, defending not the
main valley alone, but all the valleys tributary to it, as
the distribution of the forts of Eskdale valley so well
illustrate.

For the most part the forts in Eskdale occupy something
like an acre in extent* and are round or oval in shape. The
exceptions to this rule are those at Eskdalemuir Kirk and
on Old Irvine Hill, which are rectilinear. The general
plan of the fortifications is usually modified by the
nature of the ground. Where, as at Castle O'er, there
is a steep declivity on any side, it has been utilized
and regarded as a sufficient defence — no trenches or ram-
parts being made.

Writing of the Eskdale forts in general, Mr. Bell says :t
" They are of the same type, round or oval in shape and
defended by one or more lines of deep trenches, the soil

* Dr. Wilson says the hill forts were generally three to four hundred
feet in diameter.— Prehistoric Annals, Vol. II., p. 89.
t My Strange Pets, pp. 297-8.

THE HILL FORTS. 67

from which has been thrown up cither on one or both sides
so as to form mounds and ramparts, and so add to the dif-
ficulty of attack from the outside. These ramparts were
probably still further strengthened by stockades, and all
combined would offer a strong defence against an enemy
armed with the primitive weapons in use at the time these
forts were occupied."

Mr. Bell also gives a description of the principal of
the eight forts at Castle O'er, which apparently was the
key to all the fortifications of upper Eskdale. The main
fort stands on the top of a hill some 884 feet above sea-
level, and 296 feet higher than the dwelling house of
Castle O'er, which is on the river holm. It had con-
sisted " of an inner stronghold defended by deep
trenches, on the inner side of which had been strong
stone walls, now entirely destroyed. The outer sides
of the trenches are mounds or ramparts, formed as usual
with the soil excavated from the trenches."

This stronghold, the most elaborate and impregnable
in the Eskdale valley, " occupies the whole of the top of
the hill and measures, roughly speaking, 510 feet long
and 350 feet wide, whilst the size of the whole fort with
its immediately surrounding trenches is close on 900
feet long by 750 feet wide." These measurements are
unusual for this type of fort.

In his exhaustive work on The Early Fortifications of
Scotland, Dr. Christison, f.s.a., gives an elaborate de-
scription of the forts at Castle O'er. We have the
permission of Dr. Christison, whose courtesy we cordi-
ally acknowledge, to quote from this account and to
reproduce the accompanying drawings of the forts and
connecting trenches. Dr. Christison says: — "The
variety of forts in which the inner wall of dry masonry

68 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

- ^..i,«""

5 -» -■ .A?

<- -- rat >v>' "///,,. %;'%'

% $tf* ■ < + * " ». \1

— Casjk O'er. —

•*"> / /I

« — i — » - f £ ff

Enlarged details

is girt by one or more trenches, with or without
ramparts, is not common. . . . Of the unusual length
of about 900 feet over all, and broadly pear-shaped
in form, the work is situated on a knoll, precipi-
tous on the south-east, that stands on the top of
a broad ridge separating the White Esk from the
Black Burn. The inner enceinte measures 320 by 170
feet inside on the Ordnance Map and is semi-oval, the
form being regulated by the shape of the summit of the
knoll, the edge of its rocky slope to the south-east being
straight. On this edge there is but a slight vallum, but

THE HILL FORTS. 69

the curved side being more accessible has been defended
by a strong stone wall. Outside the wall at a lower
level, and somewhat retired from it, is a trench with a
mound on the outer side, continued under the rocky
south-east face and prolonged at the south-west end so
as to form a forecourt b (see drawing opposite) to the
citadel a. A much larger outer enclosure c lies in front
of this forecourt and is prolonged to the north-east end g
o( the work. It is shut in by an entrenchment which,
after rounding the south-west end, continues for some
distance on the south-west side, but ends abruptly on
the rocky face of a knoll d. Beyond the knoll it is trace-
able, but soon ends in a marsh, so that this outer
enceinte is altogether deficient at the north end.

A section through the apparent green mound of the
inner enceinte revealed the remains of a wall, unfortu-
nately so much ruined and plundered that no facing
stones remained. Placed longitudinally on a bed of
clay at the base of the wall near its middle, lay a log of
wood seven feet long and one foot wide, black as if
charred, easily going to pieces, and a good deal mixed
up with the clay which rested on hard ground.

A slight excavation revealed on the north-west side
oi the inner south-west entrance e, four stones of the
first course of a built gateway still in situ. They were
carefully laid, and measured seven and a half feet in
total length. At least one more had evidently been torn
from its place. This gives a breadth for the wall of
at least nine feet.

A section through the inner trench where the scarp
was eight feet and the counter-scarp five feet nine inches
in perpendicular depth, showed a silting up of three feet
nine, increasing the depth to above eleven feet below

;o LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

the top of the rampart and nine feet below the top of
the counter-scarp. Allowing for the wash-down of ages
the original height of the rampart must have been at
least thirteen feet. Similar measurements were got in
a section through the outer trench, and both trenches
were found to be cut through solid rock.

There appear to have been two entrances, /and g, to
the outer enclosure at its north-east end, one, c (see en-
larged details, p. 68), is dominated by the inner wall A and
trench B, and it was found on excavation that it had
been narrowed by a pit D dug in the solid rock on the
west side, so as to form a counterpart to the east side of
the entrance. The pit was at least four feet deep, but
neither its full depth nor lateral extent was ascertained.

The southern entrance h to the outer enclosure is
divided by a little circular mound into two parts. From
this entrance a strong entrenchment makes a straight
line for the entrance to the main work, but stops abruptly
short of it by fifty feet at i, the blind end being so neatly
finished that it looks as if there had been no intention of
carrying it farther. Outside, the trench is continuous
with one of those mysterious " catrails " with which the
neighbourhood of Castle O'er is so abundantly provided,
and another branches off from the north-east entrance.
Exploratory excavations in the interior of the fort dis-
closed nothing of note except that the oval levelled space
k had a layer of stones very rudely laid only a few inches
below the surface."*

A very striking characteristic of the Castle O'er group
of forts is the system of "ways " connecting them with
the main fortification. Much discussion has been direct-
ed towards the satisfactory explanation of these " ways."

* Early Fortifications in Scotland, pp. 159-162.

THE HILL FORTS.

0> £a,2,e H'K

l»«nes oj trenches arttl f7\ouncis
q = Forts

CishLQ'ei

Local antiquaries have insisted on regarding them as
Roman roads, but in spite of the speculative nature of
our knowledge of this branch of the subject, it seems
clear that the " ways" and forts are parts of one and
the same plan. A glance at the accompanying diagram
copied from Dr. Christison's book seems to establish

72 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

this beyond any doubt. The principal forts in the
Castle O'er group are all connected by these trenches.
Respecting these Dr. Christison says: —

44 In the Parish of Eskdalemuir the strong fort at
Castle O'er is surrounded within a radius of less than a
mile by six others of lesser degree, and this in a purely
pastoral district where the population is now extremely
small.

But perhaps the most remarkable example of lines
connected with forts is at the group surrounding Castle
O'er, Dumfriesshire. This example has been brought
to light only last year* by Mr. Richard Bell, proprietor
of the ground, who has patiently traced out the complex
network shewn in the above figure, the general accuracy
of which can be vouched for by personal observation on
the spot by Mr. Lynn and myself.

The extraordinary number of the lines may be at once
recognised from the figure. Indeed their very number
is an objection to the road theory, as they would seem to
be altogether beyond the requirements of primitive times
in a district apparently never capable of cultivation.
Nevertheless, as seen on the map they are more sugges-
tive of roads than fences or boundaries, from the manner
in which they cross the Esk at various points and join
on the east side of the river the long line a b which Mr.
Bell has traced from a, across the moor for five or six
miles in the direction of Selkirkshire, and which, he has
been informed, may be seen at various points almost as
far as the Catrail.

The question now arises, what can we make of these
long lines of mound and trench, so like the Catrail that
Mr. Lynn calls them all 'catrails,' and says that they

* 1897.

THE HILL FORTS. 73

must apparently stand or fall with it in any theory that
may be found as to their object? The chief theories con-
cerning the Cat rail are : —

1. A military work for defence.

2. A road.

3. A boundary.

The first view is now abandoned, but the other two
still hold the field, and whatever arguments are advanced
in favour of them must apparently be applicable to the
other lines of which we have treated, as well as to the
Heriot's Dyke in the east, and the Deil's Dyke in the
south west of the lowlands. Disregarding these last,
however, as not yet sufficiently investigated, Mr. Lynn
holds that all the others are roads. This in some
respects is the most rational theory, but the objec-
tions to it are strong. For instance, I do not know
that roads of the kind, ancient or modern, have been
met with in any other country. Again it may well
be asked : is a trench suitable to the purposes of a
road? Would it not easily drift up with snow and be-
come a wet ditch in rain ? Another strong objection is
that these lines in crossing ravines invariably go straight
down and up, and sometimes so steeply that it is a hard
scramble for a man making use of them, while they
would be impassible for wheeled traffic, or even to pack-
horses, and this, although the slightest detour would have
got rid of the difficulty. Mr. Lynn believes that the
trench form was adopted in order to get down to hard
bottom in the subsoil. It is in favour of the road theory
that where the lines pass through districts with forts they
wind about among them and give off branches as if to
serve them, and that in the Castle O'er district after the
forts are thus served, the line follows a straight course

74 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

for miles through a country destitute of forts, as if to
join the Catrail.

No doubt the boundary theory has also much to say
for itself. The longer lines, such as the Catrail, may
have marked the limits of principalities,* and the shorter
ones the marches of lesser chiefs, or of communities.
But the Catrail cannot justly be compared with a Roman
limes, backed as the latter was by a chain of fortified
stations.

These intrenched lines are generally too extended,
and too little subdivided, to be regarded as fences, for
which they are also ill-adapted structurally. Even at
Castle O'er, where the subdivision is so much greater,
the enclosed spaces are very large compared with modern
fields. On the whole I do not think that the purpose or
purposes of these long trenches have been clearly made
out. Possibly excavations might help to solve the dif-
ficulties. Sections, which have never yet been made
through them, as far as I know, might at least teach us
their original form."t

Mr. Richard Bell was of opinion that these trenches
44 were used as ' hollow ways,' along which fort dwellers
could move to and from the different forts without being
seen by their enemies," though he admits the up and
down formation even at the exceedingly steep scaurs is
evidence against his theory. On running a wheelometer
over the lines of these trenches laid down by him on the

* As confirming- Dr. Christison's opinion, Dr. Skene, in his Celtic
Scotland, says the Catrail was utilized as the frontier between the
Saxon kingdom of Bernicia and the Celtic kingdom of Strathclyde.
Perhaps it was this use of it that suggested to the late Professor Veitch
the idea that the purpose of the hill forts was to protect the tribal
boundaries. "After having formed this boundary line," he says "they
flanked it as frequently as they could with their rude hill forts and
behind the line they patiently awaited the issue of events."
+ Early Fortifications of Scotland , pp. 360-363.

THE HILL FORTS. 75

Ordnance Map, Mr. Bell found that they extended to a
total length of thirteen miles, and were considerably
within an area oi 2, 700 acres. The connection between the
forts and trenches is complete as to six of the eight in
the Castle O'er group. "At whatever part of the ground
one enters a trench and walks along it," says Mr. Bell,
''either to the right or to the left, he will find his way
into one of the five minor forts or into the main fort,
as he chooses."

On the opposite side of the river to Castle O'er is what
is named on the Ordnance Map " The Deil's Jingle,"* a
deep trench or hollow between hills or mounds, running
due north and south for over a mile and then inclining
to the north-east. Mr. Bell thought that this "way"
might be found to be connected with the famous Cat-
rail, as it is noticeable at various places in this direc-
tion, t Before leaving the Castle O'er group of forts,
mention must be made of one lying so close to the Esk
that, through a change of its course, it has washed half
of it away. This enclosure (an illustration of which
is given on next page), also is described as a fort,
but this seems unlikely, lying as it does on low ground
commanded on every side by steep hills. Mr. Francis
Lynn, f.s.a., already referred to by Dr. Christison as
an authority on these matters, considered it unique, both
because of its peculiar position and because its floor
is raised higher than the ground outside the inner

Cp. " The Devil's Dyke" at Newmarket, "The Deil's Dyke" — the
so-called Roman road running through Northumberland into Scotland,
and others similarly named. This nomenclature embodies the old super-
stition of connecting with the evil one anything mysterious. Deep pools,
hollows in woods, and such like were also named after him.

t Pennant (Vol. III., p. 264). — ". . . on the borders of North-
umberland, and from thence may be traced beyond Langholm pointing
towards Canonsby on the river Esk.''

There seems to be some geographical confusion in this note.

76 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

***»-v

THE SUPPOSED CREMATORIUM.

trench. He suggested that it had been used for athletic
sports.

Mr. Barbour, of Dumfries, thinks it might have been
the cemetery or crematorium for the main fort, and exca-
vations disclosed, under some logs of wood which had
been used apparently for a floor, and under a heap of
rough stones in the centre, a quantity of bone fragments,
which to all appearance had been subjected to fire. On
their being submitted to Professor Struthers, of the
Royal College of Surgeons, Edinburgh, however, he
gave it as his opinion that they might be the bones of
some lower animals, though he could not definitely say
they were not human. Mr. Clement Armstrong informs
the writers that Mr. Bell himself was of the opinion
that this was, as Mr. Barbour suggests, the ancient
crematorium, a view also endorsed by Mr. Armstrong,
though why, if this suggestion be accepted, there should

THK HILL FORTS.

be a double row of mounds and trenches does not seem
clear.

Wat-Carrick kirkyard stands in an old oval fort, and
Eskdalemuir Kirk is within a rectilinear fort similar
in form to that of Raeburn, which is now proved to
have been a Roman station. Possibly excavations at
Eskdalemuir Kirk might show that it also was a minor
and temporary Roman encampment. Other forts in
upper Flskdale in addition to those mentioned are at
Tan law Hill, Bailie Hill, Bankburnfoot (two), Sheil
Burn, (two), Lyneholm, Enzieholm, Bonese, Westerhall
(two), Stapelgortoun, and Craig.

In Ewes there is also a considerable number of forts,
viz., at Footsburn, Loch Hill, Arkleton, Mosspeeble,
Unthank, Eweslees, Meikledale, Rigsfoot Bush, Byke-
toot, and Briery Shaw\ Those at Meikledale and Rigsfoot
Bush are in line with that at Mosspeeble, and the three
were evidently intended to defend this, the widest part of
the Ewes valley. The Briery Shaw7 fort is the only one
in Ewes which is defended by two ramparts and a trench.
Other traces of camps and forts exist in Ewes, but they
do not warrant any definite conclusion. Few of these
exceed one acre in area, and some of them are less.
Perhaps the most interesting of the Ewes forts is that on
the top o( the Loch Hill. The loch, unlike the large
pond at Broomholm Knowe referred to later, is a natural
basin, and seems connected with the camp, which is
some two acres in extent, and is opposite the fort at
Briery Shaw, of which probably it was a complement.
The proximity of this natural basin may suggest some
purpose for the artificial pond at Broomholm. Reference
must also be made to the turf Dyke which ran through
the valley of Ewes, and can still be easily traced at

;8 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

various points. Commencing on the face of Tudhope
Hill, though most likely connected originally with the
Catrail which, it will he remembered, runs across
Teviotdale, not very far from the head of Ewes, the
Dyke proceeds along the hillsides above Unthank and
Mosspeeble, past the base of Arkleton Crags, then over
the heights of Glendiven and Howgill. It crosses Ewes
Water near Terrona, goes over the Potholm Hill and
straight over the Craig Hill on the other side of Esk, and
then heads away towards the hills at the head of Carles-
gill Burn. This, too, it is suggested, defined some old
tribal boundaries.

In Wauchope there is a fort at the Schoolhouse, and
another at Calfield, whilst several are to be found on the
hills behind Westwater. That at Calfield is altogether
different in construction from the others. There has
been a building rather than mounds and trenches,
and the masonry, both of the outer and inner walls, is
clearly seen and is unmistakable. It occupies a com-
manding position on the steep hill side, and the Roman
road running from Broomholm has swerved to avoid
it. In this respect the Calfield fort is like that at Castle
O'er, where Dr. Christison shews there are not a few
indications of buildings, and also those on the Craig
Hill and Old Irvine Hill, both of which retain unmistak-
able evidences of masonry. Probably these are later in
date than the others, which have only earth mounds as
ramparts. It is the opinion of some local antiquaries
that the Old Irvine fort is Roman, but Dr. Christison is
of the contrary view. There is also a small fort on the
road from Wauchope into Canonby, near to the Kerr to
which it has probably given its name, Car or Caer
being the Celtic for a fort or camp.

THE HILL FORTS. 79

The rectilinear camp at New Woodhead or Thornie-
whats will he referred to under Roman antiquities. Bui
it may here he noted that Dr. Christison's opinion is
that this camp is not to he attributed to the Romans.

Probably next in importance, though different in design
from the Castle O'er fort, is that of Broomholm Knowe, a
plan o( which is given on next page. Here are evidences
o( an ancient British settlement of considerable size and
importance. Straight across the fort runs the Roman
road, which, branching off at Netherby, runs up through
lower Eskdale. It will be seen from the plan that the
Roman road almost touches the outmost trench of the
fort, suggesting that the Britons had abandoned it ere
the road was made. Attention is also drawn to the small
circular fort near the railway viaduct. It is placed on
a high knoll overlooking the gorge in which the Tarras
runs.

This is the site which Pennant considered* to answer
such a description as Caesar gives of an old British
townt in his De Bell. Gall, v., c. 21.

The fort at Broomholm Knowe has a content of some
six or seven acres, and is of the usual oval shape. The
south-west section is in fair preservation and its details can

* " Mr. Pennant when in this country was clearly of opinion that the
house in Broomholm, which is surrounded by the most enchanting
scenery, stands in the heart of an old British town, and answers Caesar's
description : ' oppidum . . . munitum sylvis paludibusque, quo satis
magnus numerus hominum pecorisque convenerit.' "

This opinion, quoted by the parish minister of 1793 in Sinclair's
Statistical Account, is nowhere given in Pennant's Tour. It is possible,
however, that the Statist may have derived it from Mr. Maxwell, of
Broomholm, who was Pennant's host. It seems very singular that Pen-
nant should have expressed such an opinion. The description of the
British town is given in chapter 21 and not 17 as stated by Mr. Martin,
and no one reading- the chapter could reasonably suppose that by any
chance it could refer to Broomholm.

t Oppidum autem Britanni vocant, quum silvas impeditas vallo atque
fossa munierunt, quo incursionis hostium vitandse causa, con venire con-
sueverunt. — Caes. De Bell. Gall, v., c. 21.

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

be traced with some certainty. There is an inner enclo-
sure defended by the usual trench and rampart, with two
outer trenches circling at a distance of some thirty yards
from the inner one. Though the site of the fort has been

THE HILL FORTS. 81

ploughed these trenches can be followed more or less
distinctly in a north-easterly direction to the top o( the
Knowe. The peculiarity of the Broomholm Knowe,
however, lies not in the mounds or trenches, but in the
large pond or reservoir on the south-east side, and
marked A on the accompanying plan. This is some
eighty yards long, and eight yards broad at the present
level of the silt, which is almost five feet in depth.
Whether the pond or even the rectilinear mounds had
any connection with the oval fort shown on the plan is
difficult to say. It will be noticed that the earth mounds
running towards the south-west, cross the Roman road
instead of being broken by it. This points to the mounds
being constructed after the road had ceased to be used.
These various features of the works at Broomholm
Knowe present difficulties which have not yet been
solved.

There is one feature of Broomholm Knowe which is
singular, viz. : the enormous number of sandstone
boulders scattered promiscuously about it. How these
boulders have come there has not been determined, but
an explanation of their presence might throw an inte-
resting light on the history of the place. That they
have not been ice-borne seems evident, as they are
confined to practically the area of the Knowe, nor can
they be fragments broken from the hill. t They appear
to have been carried to the Knowe — for what purpose
might prove a useful and interesting archaeological
enquiry.

CHAPTER VI.

GLIMPSES AT PREHISTORIC ESKDALE.

LITTLE trustworthy information exists to show
what life in Eskdale was like between the build-
ing of the Girdle Stanes in 1290 B.C. and the Roman
invasion of Scotland in the first century a.d.

Without the faintest thought that thereby he might
be providing historical material, primitive man accumul-
ated, in or near his dwelling, heaps of domestic refuse,
which to-day are being excavated and sifted, with import-
ant and interesting results. From these refuse-heaps
information is obtained as to the pottery, the weapons
of war, domestic utensils, ornaments, food and fuel of
the races who, so many centuries ago, accumulated them.
But, unfortunately, this source of evidence does not exist
in Eskdale. With the hope of learning something defi-
nite of the life and habits of primitive man in Eskdale,
the late Mr. Richard Bell had cross sections cut along
the sides of the hill on which the main fort at Castle
O'er is built, but the result was entirely negative — a sur-
prise and disappointment.

Such evidence as has been obtained elsewhere has been
very fragmentary. Some glass beads and a stone whorl,
both now in the National Museum of Antiquities in
Edinburgh, were found at Mosspeeble in the years 1867
and 1869, and apart from the evidence supplied by the
circles, the standing stones, and the cairns, these are
practically all that has been discovered of a tangible
nature, dating from this misty but most interesting period
of local history. This scarcity of material makes it all

PREHISTORIC ESKDALE. 83

the more regrettable, that when the cairns were demol-
ished (despoiled would perhaps he a more accurate term),
no record of their contents was kept. Evidence is not
wanting, however, in the immediate neighbourhood of
Eskdale, to show to us something of what the primitive
tribes were and what they did. From Lochar Moss, in
Nithsdale, there have been dug up, not only the smaller
articles of ornament or domestic use, such as beads and
tores, but ancient canoes and oars and anchors, stone
relics, bronze implements, and various articles of Roman
civilization and early art. From a collation of all the
evidence thus obtained some general idea can be got of
the life of that far-off day.

Few traces now remain of the dwellings of these
ancient races. Eskdale is devoid of caves, and probably
the variations in the course of the rivers may have helped
to obliterate many traces of primitive man which would
have helped us rightly to understand his life.

Reference has been made to certain traces of ancient
structures now designated Stone Rings. These, it has
been suggested, are the remnants of" burghs " or "Picts'
Houses." In discussing the various types of the stone
circles of Scotland, Mr. A. L. Lewis* arranged them
into groups, each having certain local characteristics.
The western Scottish type was either irregular or con-
centric in form, and the stone rings of Eskdale seem
to show some features in harmony with these outlines.
The Eskdale rings are in four groups, two on each bank
of the Esk. One group is a little to the south of Middle-
burn Farm on the left bank of the Esk, almost directly
opposite Eskdalemuir Manse. It consists of two rings,
both oval in shape. The smaller is held, as it were, in

* Journal, of Anthropological Institute, N.S. III., 1900.

84 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

the northern arc of the larger, through which another
course o( masonry runs. On the same bank of the Esk,
a little to the south of the eleventh milestone on the
Langholm road and to the west of the Saugh Hill plant-
ation, there is a smaller ring in almost a perfect circle.
On the opposite bank of the Esk there are also two
groups. These do not appear to have had any definite
relationship to those just named, though the four groups
form a rough sort of parallelogram. One of the latter
groups is on the farm at Wat-Carrick. It is an incom-
plete ring, with one 'of its limbs extended instead of
being curved inwards to complete the circle. This may
possibly be a suggestion of the concentric arrangement
mentioned by Lewis. Farther south, on the slope of
the Castle Hill and almost directly opposite to Crurie, is
the second group on this side of Esk. It, too, is formed
of two rings. The larger, which is oval in shape, is
incomplete in its northern arc, where it holds within its
arms a second oval ring of smaller size. Whether
these structures are the remains of " Picts' Houses" it is
now impossible to say, but the suggestion is an interest-
ing one. We know* that the Celtic tribes had circular
booths within their fortifications, the doors facing the
east. There is a certain similarity between the rings
thus described and the forts at Craig, Calfield, and Old
Irvine Hill. The objection has been made that the
presence of stonework denotes a date later than the
early British or Celtic age, but such an argument is
not now regarded as applying. Another suggestion is
that these structures were the dwelling places of the
Druids. It is not improbable, however, that these stone

* See The Scottish Gael, Vol. II., p. 7.

PREHISTORIC ESKDALE. 85

rings, it they were at any time parts o( dwellings,
belonged to the Saxon rather than the Celtic period.

The dwelling places of the common people would be
either in the forests ov on their outskirts. The negative

results of Mr. Bell's excavations at Castle O'er point to
the forts being refuges in days o( peril or war rather
than regular dwelling places. The forest homes would
he rudely constructed of branches built round the trunks
of trees and covered with moss and leaves — poor enough
places, especially in winter, yet when attacked they were
defended with patriotic courage. Such temporary dwell-
ings accorded with the usages of the age, and when
migration or flight became necessary they could be left
without much inconvenience or loss.

The occupations of these primitive tribesmen would
also be simple, befitting the stage of civilization to which
thev had attained. The stone whorls found at Mosspeeble
and elsewhere indicate that at a very early day spinning
was known. A rude form of agriculture together with
hunting and warfare, would embrace the bulk of the
occupations of the people. Hunting became to the
Celt both occupation and recreation. Quarry in plenty
lay to his hand. The forests of Eskdale and Ettrick
abounded in game o( which we to-day know nothing.
Species long ago extinct afforded sport and sustenance,
both on the hills and in the great forests. In his fascin-
ating book on the wild life of Eskdale, My Strange Pets,
Mr. Richard Bell mentions many animals and birds now
extinct, but, at the time of which we write, indigenous
to Eskdale. The wolf, the red deer, the wild boar, the
brown bear, and the wild ox* were amongst the fauna of

In Roxburghshire the fossil remains of this animal have been dug
up. The skull measured 28 inches in length.

86 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Eskdale and neighbouring dales. The abundance of
such game would help to render the district a more ex-
citing habitation than it is in these softer days, and
would also develop that skill in hunting and in archery
which, centuries later, shone out amongst the Poorest men
who fought in the Battle of the Standard, and alas ! on
the fateful field of Flodden.

Owing to his veneration of rivers the Celt abjured fish
as a food,* but when this superstition began to decline
fishing would also be a source of wealth and amusement.
But when the Esk and its tributaries were in the grip of
a rigorous winter, when snow lay deep upon field and
fell, other resources had to be found, and to what did the
tribesmen turn then — when curling was unknown?
That they had domestic amusements seems fairly
certain. The glass beads found at Mosspeeble were
possibly used for this purpose. These relics, indeed,
may even date from the Stone Age, and it is sug-
gested that they were used as counters in some domestic
game, as well as for personal ornament. Dr. Wilsont
thinks that the game of " paips "J so beloved of every
Scottish schoolboy, is the lineal descendant of this game
which the ancient Celts played with these glass beads. If
at any time the days hung heavily upon the Eskdale
tribesman and he was in danger of becoming enervated,
then probably a swift invasion of some other tribe or race
would serve to brace him up to his wonted efficiency.

In war our tribesman was brave and skilled. Caesar
vividly describes the methods of warfare of the Britons,
and we may accept his words as applying also to the

* The Scottish Gael, Vol. II., p. 42.

t Prehistoric Annals, Vol. II., p. 338.

± Idem.

PREHISTORIC ESKDALE. 87

tribes of the lowlands. In the use of the war chariot the
tribesman was an expert, and the Roman leader pays
many an involuntary tribute to his dashing attack, his
leaping down from the chariot and waging 4k an unequal
combat " with the disciplined troops or the impressed
auxiliaries o\~ Rome. He writes admiringly, too, of
their strongholds, 4k excellently fortified," he says, " both
by nature and by art." Praise from Ceesar is praise
indeed !

In the days when the circles were built the use of
metals was unknown in these Islands, but as the Roman
era approached the weapons of warfare would be of iron.
Tacitus indicates that in his day the swords of the Cale-
donians were made of this metal. Eskdale is not with-
out evidence of the early acquaintance of its Celtic
tribes with the process of iron making. Quite recently
there were discovered on Old Irvine Hill some pockets
of slag, and some years ago a like discovery was
made at Tarras Bridge. These slag deposits are con-
sidered by some authorities to belong to the Celtic
period, but whether before or after the Roman invasion
is not certain. The origin of the ore for this process of
smelting is doubtful. So far as Eskdale is concerned it
was probably imported, but in the north of Scotland a
bog ore, a hydrated oxide o( iron, readily fusible, has
been found in considerable abundance. It is to be re-
gretted that, excepting the slag, no other relic has been
found near these ancient forges.

As already indicated, the religion of these early tribes
was of an elementary character. The modified Baal
worship practised at the circles developed into a secret
cult, popularly associated with the Druids. The earliest
Celtic races seems to have had native priests, but there is

88 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

no indication that in their sacred places, whether these
were the ancient stone circles or other structures, there
was any visible form set up and worshipped other than
that homage and adoration were offered to the sun. It
is from their religious practices, more than from any
other characteristic of their age, that these primitive
races have exerted a traceable influence. The religious
instincts of the tribesmen found expression in forms and
observances to which some of our own, though now
apparently widely separated, can be traced. These
influences, indeed, still survive in not a few Christian
rites. Their veneration of wells, for example, was the
origin of that position accorded to them by the early
Christian Church, and the pagan pilgrimages to the
wells were Christianized, and entered into the early
religious ritual, and were justified by the medicinal
value many of the wells possessed. To Langholm
people it is interesting to note that to obtain the
desired effect the pilgrimages had to be made in
the early morning before the sun was up. It was
doubtless this pagan superstition lingering in Esk-
dale which originated, and perhaps perpetuated, the
annual visits to the Bloch Well, which were once re-
garded as part of the ceremonies attaching to the due
observance of the Summer Fast Day. It will be re-
membered that these excursions were made in the early
morning. In the days of their decay, as is generally
the case, the Bloch Well pilgrimages, first made by
adults, fell to be performed by the children, and then
finally disappeared along with the Fast Day itself.

As always happens in nature worship, its "doctrines"
became the. superstitions of a more enlightened day and
race. Their faith scarcely went beyond a profound

PREHISTORIC ESKDALE. 8g

belief in the agency o( supernatural beings. Good

or evil spirits, mostly evil, dwelt in every wood,
well, or river. Charms, such as the rowan lice,
were employed to ward oil their malign influence.
Wizardry and magic, the evil eye, the potent power of
witches, and the presence of fairies, brownies, bogles,
and kelpies in every pool and in every burn, were ac-
cepted as truth by primitive man is Kskdale. So down
to the present generation, certain places were popu-
larly believed to be the special abodes of these sprites.
The Little Brig in the Galaside Wood was supposed
to be a favourite sporting ground —

" Where 'tis said, the fairies ramble
And strange spectres nightly march."

The Bogle Gill in the Stubholm Wood was also held to
be a haunted place, and brave was he who dared to cross
it after night had fallen. In the name of Fairy Loup,
given to the charming waterfall in the Byre Burn, an
illustration of which is given on page 1 1, we have an
instance of the connection of fairies and elves with
brooks and streams. Many of the places thus associ-
ated with these " uncanny folk" were regarded with fear
by the inhabitants oi Eskdale, and not many years have
gone since people could be found who would not pass
such a place without using certain incantations or charms.
The practice of carrying perforated or curiously shaped
stones as charms against ill luck or disease is of course
still observed. A generation or two ago it was also a
custom much favoured in Langholm to have a large
stone, a perforated one by preference, laid at the door
of one's house. It was these superstitions which gave
to Hallow-e'en its unique hold upon the Scottish low-
lands, down even to recent times. On this evening

90 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

the fairies held high festival, and the influence they
were supposed to exert, especially over the relationships
of the sexes, is chronicled in many a volume. The old
ballad of Ettrick Forest, the Tale of Young Tamlane* is
characteristic of the beliefs of the people in the actual
existence and magic power of these supernatural visit-
ants. A vivid conception of these superstitions is obtained
from the prose and poetical works of James Hogg, the
Ettrick Shepherd. Much of his literary work was ex-
pressly designed to preserve these old beliefs and super-
stitions. Such tales as The Brownie of Bodsbeck, for
instance, give us a clear insight into the eerie beliefs
then current and not yet wholly dead amongst the low-
land hills.

Fire festivals were among the most important observ-
ances of the early Celtic days. Cremation was largely
practised, and was given as a mark of honour to a man
of might, even as cairn burial also was. It was in this
connection that the bonfire came into being. Origin-
ally it was " banefire," — the burning of the bones of the
mighty dead, a practice which seems to have been the
Celtic equivalent for a public funeral. t

From these fire-festivals there arose not a few of the
practices in the Christian Church, such as the burning
of candles and lamps. Candlemas, which is, even to this
day, a legal term in Scotland, thus originated. Ash
Wednesday, and such like festivals of the Church, are
all referable to the pagan period. In his Survey of the
Girdle Stanes, Mr. Goldsbrough mentions the practice in

* See Scott's Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, Vol. II., p. 337.

+ Cp. II. Chron. xvi., v. 14, and xxi. v. 19, — when King- Asa died his
people " made a very great burning for him." But when the less popu-
lar Jehoram was gathered to his fathers, " his people made no burning
for him like the burning of his fathers."

PREHISTORIC KSKDALE. 91

connection with the sun-rise celebrations at the circles,
o( illuminating one of the outlying stones and it is
not improbable that from this simple origin, far back in
the prehistoric age, the various fire observances, both of
the later pagan and the Christian eras, came into being.

Mr. Goldsbrough mentions, too (page 27), that at the
date of the building of the Girdle Stanes the year began
approximately on February 4th. In the centuries im-
mediately preceding the Christian era, however, that is
during the Celtic period, the year began on December
25th, our Christmas Day, and the event was signalized
by a fire festival in honour of the sun and by the ex-
changing of gifts. This gave rise to our custom of
burning the Yule log on Christmas Eve.* It is possible
that the old northern celebration of Hogmanay+ origin-
ated in the same way and about the same time. Its
observance in Eskdale and Langholm will be referred
to later, but though its precise purpose and origin are
obscure, it seems clearly to have been a special festival
to mark the passing of the year.

Although licentiousness entered largely into all the
pagan rites observed at the circles as part of the wor-
ship, in after years among the Celtic tribes there seems

* The Scottish Gael, Vol. II., p. 362.

I " The term ' Hogmanay ' has puzzled antiquarians," says Chambers'
Book of Days, (p. 788), " even more than that of ' Yule ' and what is of still
greater consequence, it has never yet received a satisfactory explana-
tion."

One derivation suggested is that from the Greek ' ay la fxrjvr), the holv
moon, in support of which the term used in the north of England, Hag-
nu'fia, is quoted. Another suggestion is that the word is derived from
Hoggn-nott, or Hogg-night , the ancient Scandinavian term for the night
preceding the first of Yule. A third derivation suggested is from the
French patois Au-gui-menez, referring to the gathering of the mistletoe
by the Druids. Some support is lent to this last by the custom in Nor-
mandy, and also in Guernsey, of poor persons and children being in
the habit on this day of soliciting contributions under the title of Hog-

92 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

to have existed a well defined marriage law. Near to,
and apparently in connection with, some of the circles
in Cornwall, there have been found stones pierced with
a circular hole. These perforated stones are said to have
been used in the marriage rites at a very early date, the
contracting parties pledging their troth by clasping hands
through the opening.* It is quite likely that it was a
similar custom prevailing among the Eskdale tribes which
gave rise to the custom of " handfasting." Handfasting
was a modified form of marriage, observed by the parties
clasping hands in token of their mutual contract, of
which the act of "joining hands" in the present marr-
iage ceremony is doubtless a survival. The marriage
existed for a year, on the expiry of which either person
could annul it, in which case due care was taken to
recognise the legitimacy of the offspring. If the parties
were mutually aggreeable to the union, or had failed to
have it annulled within the required period, the marr-
iage was made absolute. We have no record of the
use of any perforated stone in Eskdale, but the custom
itself was probably part of the old Celtic marriage cere-
mony. And it is no doubt due to these same customs
that the marriage laws and customs of Scotland differ
so materially from those of other countries.

Handfasting was performed at Handfasting Haugh,
situated appropriately enough, where the waters of the
Black Esk and White Esk unite : —

* The Stone of Odin, in Orkney, was so used. A promise either in
civil contract or in marriage made in this way was held to be specially
binding-, and its breach to be more reprehensible than under ordinary
circumstances. The person who broke his vow, sworn by the Stone of
Odin, was held to be infamous, and was excluded all society. — Prehistoric
Annals, Vol. I. p. 144.

PREHISTORIC ESKDALE. 93

" Even as rivulets twain from distant and separate sources
Seeing each other afar, as ihey leap from their rocks, and pursuing
Bach its devious path, but drawing1 nearer and nearer,

Rush together at last ,it their trysting place in the forest.

* # * * * ' * * # *

Rush together at last and one is lost in t lu* other.

There is no doubt but that other local customs, especi-
ally the quaint superstitions which lingered long in Es It-
dale, had their birth in those distant days. Readers who
care to examine more minutely into the origin of these
beliefs and practices, will obtain plentiful information
from Dr. Frazer's Golden Bough, a marvellous compen-
dium of the folk-lore of every land.

Part II.

FROM THE ROMAN INVASION
TO THE FEUDAL PERIOD.

ROMAN INVASION TO FEUDAL PERIOD.
CHAPTER VII.

THE ROMAN'S IX ESKDALE.

THE first invasion of Britain by the Romans took
place in the year 55 B.C. under Julius Caesar.
This was, however, only a reconnoitering expedition,
and it was during the summer of the following year that
Caesar returned with five legions of soldiers. This ex-
pedition, like that of the year before, returned to Rome
for the winter.

After an interval of 98 years, that is in 43 a.d., there
was another expedition under the Emperor Claudius,
but it was not until the year 80 that the attempted
conquest of North Britain was entered upon by Julius
Agricola. In that year we read of him overrunning the
country as far as the Firth of Tay. The following year
was spent by Agricola in securing his previous con-
quests and in building a chain of forts across the upper
isthmus. In 82 he was in "that part of Britain which is
opposite Ireland." In 84 he defeated the Caledonians
under Galgacus at Mons Granpius (commonly, but
wrongly, called Grampius). This was the most decisive
battle of the campaign, and his victory enabled Agricola
to penetrate even to the Moray Firth. After the recall of
Agricola, two years later, little is known of Britain till
the reign of Hadrian, 1 17 — 138 a.d. It was during this
period that the Wall from the Tyne to the Solway was
built. The barrier erected from Forth to Clyde was on
the line of Agricola's forts in the time of Antoninus, the

98 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

successor of Hadrian. Henceforth for many years one
insurrection was succeeded by another, until in 209
Severus endeavoured to compel the submission of the
Britons of the north. After he had repaired the Wall of
Hadrian, restored stations, and generally improved the
roads he marched against the Caledonians, but three
years later he returned to York, to die a victim of disease
and vexation.

It was at the Borders that the Roman soldiery encount-
ered their most formidable difficulties. Some 130 years
elapsed between their first landing in Britain and their
obtaining any hold upon Caledonian territory. The
bravery of the native tribes and their guerilla tactics,
aided as these were by the physical features of the country
— hill, forest, and morass, — made the Roman advance
beyond the Cheviots slow and arduous. The building
of Hadrian's Wall from the Tyne to the Solway was it-
self a tacit confession that the Romans themselves
deemed the task of subjugating the Caledonian tribes
too great for their troops.

The occupation of Scotland therefore was never more
than partial, and was finally terminated about the year
410 when, distracted by their own national affairs and
the dangers that were then looming darkly over their
country, the Romans relinquished the ambitions of half
a millenium and withdrew their armies home to Rome.

The ancient tribes of the Borders fought as bravely
and tenaciously for the inviolability of their rude homes
— wattle huts for the most part — as did their hardy suc-
cessors, when centuries later, their independence was in
danger. During the first century the tract of country
we now call the lowlands, lying between the Wall of
Hadrian on the south and the Wall of Antoninus on the

THE ROMANS IX ESKDALE. 99

north, was peopled by a variety of Celtic tribes. These
were all descendants of that common Aryan family which
ethnologists conjecture to have "come over" about a
thousand years or so before the Christian era, and to
have gradually superseded the Iberian or Basque popu-
lation. This Celtic occupation of the British Isles was
one stage in that great westward movement of races,
which is in operation to-day quite as markedly as it was
two or even three thousand years ago.

The most numerous and powerful branch of this Celtic
race were the Brigantes, whose tribes were in the effec-
tive occupation of the greater part of the southern low-
lands. The Brigantes were subdivided into tribes who
peopled certain districts roughly defined by the water-
sheds of the country. These tribes were independent,
each being ruled by its own king or chief, and here we
have the germ of the clan system, which afterwards be-
came so characteristic of Scotland generally and its Celtic
people in particular.

Eskdale, indeed the entire county of Dumfries, was
occupied by the Selgovas.* Though not infrequently
the Brigantes were temporarily subdued, they never lost
their independence, nor abated their hostility to the in-
vaders of their country. And thus it came to pass that
the Roman occupation of the country between the
Walls o( Hadrian and Antoninus, virtually the entire
lowlands, was uncertain and broken. Never, indeed,
did they attain in Scotland to the same influence as they
exercised in England. South of Hadrian's Wall they
colonised the country ; even as far north as Netherby

* It is said that it is from the word " Selgovae " that "Solway" is
derived. The Romans, unable to pronounce the guttral, called it the
Mare Sul7ve — hence our word Sol-way.

ioo LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

they built their villas and their baths ; but north of it
their occupation was almost entirely military, and only
in a few instances did it exhibit the characteristics of a
permanent and civil settlement. The recent discoveries
at Newstead, near Melrose, and those at Birrens, together
with the earlier finds at Duntocher, Cramond, Inveresk
Bar Hill, and other places, for the most part along the
Wall of Antoninus, seem to disprove this claim, but
these discoveries are indications of the camps of a garri-
son rather than the dwellings of a settled population.

It may safely be said that immediately north of the
Borders the evidences point only to a military and not to
a civil Roman occupation. In Eskdale, especially, such
antiquities as have been found in abundance at Netherby
are wanting. Netherby being in Cumberland does not
come within the primary intention and scope of this
work, except in so far as its history is of service in em-
phasizing or illustrating that of the part of Eskdale with
which we are mainly concerned — that lying on the Scot-
tish side of the Border. But the camp at Netherby
seems to have been the key to the Roman history of Esk-
dale, and an appreciation of its importance appears to
furnish the correct perspective in which to regard the
latter. The physical extent of the camp, and the num-
ber and nature of the discoveries there made, show not
only that Netherby was a great military station, but also
that it had a settled civil community of considerable re-
pute and influence. These discoveries need not be
referred to in detail here. They are fully recorded by
Pennant, Hutchinson, Horsley,*and others, and many of
them can be seen and studied in the Municipal Museum,

* See Hutchinson's History of Cumberland, Vol. II., p. 533.

THE ROMANS IX ESKDALE. 101

Tullie House, Carlisle. Netherby, indeed, would appear
to have ranked in importance with the large stations
along the Walls of Hadrian and Antoninus. Camden
thought that it was here that " the tribune ol the first
cohort of the Astures was in garrison against the bar-
barian," and " the name of the Esk running In- them
does so well concur, " that lie considered Netherby was
the site oi ^Ksica, a view that was held also by Sir John
Clark. Pennant, and Ilorsley the historian, both be-
lieved Netherby to be the Castra Exploratorum of An-
toninus, which, however, Sir John Clark held to be
Birrens, in Middleby. The Netherby relics are many
and varied, including altars, inscribed stones, tablets,
Carvings, and groups, as well as pieces of pottery, do-
mestic utensils, coins and ornaments, and all the usual
indications of a settled community, such as are now being
unearthed at Corbridge, the Corstopititm of the Roman
legions. But in Eskdale not an inscribed altar, no trace
of villa or bath has been discovered, nothing save meagre
evidences oi a temporary military occupation. Even
these have not been found in such abundance as at
Carlisle, Netherby, or Birrens. Possibly the lack of
definite and systematic excavation may account for this,
for little or no effort apart from the search at Raeburn-
toot has been made to discover Roman relics in Eskdale.

sn John adds : "I do not know wh) ii [Netherby] might not have
been Luguvallium rather than Carlisle; if the etymology ol' the word
could be admitted to be Longovallis which is ,-i pail which we call Eske-
dale oi Escce vallts. I own the next station of Antoninus's Itinerary
would create some difficulty, but that would bo only in Ihe distances,
About which we can have but little certainty." (Letter to Rogei Gale
feted from Edinburgh, 29th Oct., 1734). Quoted in Hutchinson's //w-
tory of Cumberland, Vol. II., p. 540.

io2 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

NETHERBY, MIDDLEBY, AND OVERBY.

Archaeologists have assumed as a postulate in all their
researches into the Roman period, that there was what
curiously has been termed a ''trilogy" of camps on the
Borders. The camps at Netherby and Middleby were
known. These two names implied a third place, Overby,
and it was expected that here would be discovered the
missing member of the group, and reasoning from the
similarity in the names the archaeologist placed the
third camp at Castle O'er. This assumption was logical
enough, despite the fact that the termination by has of
itself nothing to do with Roman camps. The three
names are of Norse derivation, but camps having been
located at Netherby and Middleby it was not unnatural
that another should be expected to be found at Overby,
and in the locating of it there has been much ingenuity
displayed. The generally accepted opinion was that the
strong hill-forts at Castle O'er constituted the missing
camp. Castle O'er was regarded as Overby until in 1810
when Dr. Brown, the minister of Eskdalemuir, recognised
in the earthworks at Raeburnfoot the usual rectilinear
form of the Roman camp, and he therefore transferred the
name Overby to the Raeburnfoot camp. Was he justi-
fied in doing so? It was to solve this question that the
excavations at Raeburnfoot were made by Mr. James
Barbour of Dumfries. These excavations indicated con-
clusively that Raeburnfoot was indeed a Roman camp,
though by every standard of comparison inferior to the
camps at Netherby and Middleby. Mr. Barbour came
therefore to the conclusion that Raeburnfoot was not
Overby, and suggested that researches be made at other
places in Dumfriesshire ending in by for the missing
camp. Mr. Barbour, it may be pointed out, assumed

THE ROMANS IN ESKDALE. 103

that the third camp would be oi equal size to the others,
but may it not easily have been that though not the place
called Overby, Raeb urn foot may yet have been the
sought for camp? It may have been garrisoned and for-
tified for part oi the year, but not employed as winter
quarters. Roman waiters refer frequently to the troops
going into tents, and these may have sufficed for Rae-
burnfoot, whereas stone buildings were required for such
winter quarters as Netherby and Middleby seem to have
been.

RAEBURNFOOT.

In his book My Strange Pets,* the late Mr. Richard
Bell argues that Castle O'er is the ancient Overby, and
seems somewhat to resent Dr. Brown's change of opinion
on his discovery of the rectilinear camp at Raeburnfoot,
although he too hesitates to accept the opinion of Gen-
eral Roy that Castle O'er was the supposed Uxellum of
the Romans. t He quotes the late Dr. Macdonald, f.s.a.,
to support his plea that Castle O'er had "been known as
Overby from time immemorial." It thus seems clearly
established that the view of archaeologists that the third
camp of the "trilogy" would be at Overby, has been
proved incorrect. It was to settle this point as much
as to ascertain whether the works at Raeburnfoot
were actually Roman that the excavations were made
b\ Mr. Harbour. The second point seems thereby
to have been conclusively settled — that is that the recti-
linear works at the Rae Burn were not early British, like
those at Castle O'er and elsewhere in Eskdale, but were
undoubtedly Roman. In addition to the similarities dis-

* p. 293.
+ Uxellum has also been placed at Wardlaw Hill, in Caerlaverock

pa i ish.

io4

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

cfflHff.!!?"*^ »^^

RAEBURNFOOT ROMAN CAMP, ESKDALEMUIR.

covered at Raeburnfoot to the large camp at Birrens,
Mr. Barbour adduces further proof from Delph, in the
West Riding of Yorkshire. The camps there are ad-
mittedly Roman, and the plan of the earth-works is so
similar to that o( Raeburnfoot, especially the arrange-

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io6 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

incut o( forts inside one another as it were, that the
report of the excavators at Delph, prepared by Mr. F. A.
Brnton, m.a., of Manchester Grammar School, not only
makes mention of the similarity of the two plans, but
reproduces the plan of Raeburnfoot to illustrate their own
discoveries. The plans are so exactly alike as to leave no
legitimate doubt that they have been made by the same
builders. The Romans were regulated in their camp
construction by well known military rules and specifica-
tions, and they sought uniformity not only in their large
camps but also in less important works. With reference
to Mr. Barbour's primary purpose in excavating at Rae-
burnfoot, he admits that he is forced to the conclusion
that " Overby has still to be discovered." The step
succeeding Dr. Brown's discovery of Raeburnfoot in
1810, was not taken until 1896, when the Dumfriesshire
and Galloway Natural History and Antiquarian Society,
at the suggestion of Dr. Macdonald, decided to excavate.
This was done in November, 1897, under the expert
direction of Mr. James Barbour of Dumfries, who after-
wards embodied his conclusions in a paper read to the
Society in the following month.

From that paper the following notes are taken with
Mr. Barbour's kind permission, and the accompanying
plans illustrating Mr. Barbour's paper are given by the
courtesy of Messrs. Annan, photographers, Glasgow.

The Raeburnfoot camp is inferior in size and military
importance to that at Birrens in Middleby. It occupies
the tongue of land formed at the junction of the Rae
Burn with the White Esk. It rises about forty feet
above the holm lying between it and the Esk, and
commands the valley of that river and considerable
stretches of adjacent hill country. Its height above sea
level is about 650 feet.

THE ROMANS I\ ESKDALE. 107

The camps at Birrens and Raeburnfoot present points
oi resemblance in some features, and the direction o{ the
major axis o( both is n.n.w., thereby conforming to the
Vitruvian rule for guarding against noxious winds. Each
occupies "a bluff rising in a hollow part o( t lie countrv and
skirted on its sides by running streams," -the White Esk
and the Rae Burn in the case of the Kskdalemuir camp.
The interior dimensions also correspond, — by design, Mr.
Barbour thinks, and the structural details have also much
in common. Both camps seem to have been laid down
according to the well known established rules, e.g., a
certain part of the stonework at Raeburnfoot " agrees
with the steps and ascents which Hyginus says should
be made to the ramparts."

The principal dimensions of the camp are: — Includ-
ing the ramparts and ditches the length is 605 feet at the
east side and 625 at the west. Approximately the width
as far as it can be ascertained is about 400 feet. With
the fortifications the camp extends over five and a half
acres, the interior area being rather less than four acres.
The interior of the fort itself measures 220 feet by about
185 and contains nearly an acre.

Much of the form of the camp has been rendered in-
distinct, and occasionally completely obliterated, by
ploughing and other agricultural operations, and through
the same cause many relics have been lost which might
have proved valuable data. Many of the stones used
in the construction of the camp seem to have been ap-
propriated for farm purposes, and thus another valuable
piece of evidence has been lost.

The ditches are almost V-shaped, but the sides appear
to be slightly convex in some cases. The outer one ex-
tending on three sides of the camp measures fifteen feet

10S LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

in width and live feet in depth. Those of the central
fort are each ten feet wide and three and a-half deep,
and sixteen to eighteen feet apart between the centres of
one and the other. The mound separating them is of a
rounded section. The outer rampart was probably about
thirty feet in width at the base. The rampart of the fort
is differently constructed and appears to have been about
thirty-five feet at the base.

No indications exist of east or west gateways, but
depressions in the rampart at the north and south mark
where the entrances were at these points. The south
gateway of the camp shows a roadway of gravel, level
with the camp, but nothing remains to mark its width.
The gateway on the north is similar but the gravel
surface is wanting.

At the south entrance of the central fort a good deal
o( cobble pavement surfacing is found, and several larger
stones, which Mr. Barbour suggests might be for edging,
also remain.

No certain vestiges of buildings were discovered by
Mr. Barbour, but there were seen several pieces of stone-
work more or less regularly disposed. Pieces of un-
dressed whinstone from twenty-four to thirty inches long-
were found covering a drain, about sixty feet in length,
which extended southwards from the north gateway of
the central fort along the west margin of the street at the
point marked A on the accompanying plan. They were
placed across the drain so as to fit closely together, and
the top of the work which was on a level with the street
had the appearance of a broad and well-set edging.
Similar stones were found composing the side of the
drain, and the sub-soil formed the bottom.

On the east side of the fort, too, a structural piece of

THE ROMANS IN ESKDALE. 109

work was discovered where the tail of the rampart would
be, and nearly midway from north to south, marked C
on the plan. It was composed of clay and roundish
whinstones about six or nine inches in diameter, put to-
gether in such a way as to resemble a mass of concrete.
The outline was irregular, but the surface was hard and
straight like a floor. It measured about ten feet from
north to south and fourteen feet from east to west, and
the substance was about two feet thick. Immediately to
the north of this there was a breadth of spread stones,
and to the west were fragments of cobble paving, also a
few stones put together like a fragment of walling about
a yard long and nine inches in height. These spread
stones, Mr. Barbour thinks, are suggestive of a road-
way, and probably the east gateway of the fort stood
there, in which case, he thinks, the main structure de-
scribed might have been a platform for the reception of
the engine to be used in defence of the gate, according
to the rules of Hyginus.

Another fragment of stonework lies under the tail of
the south rampart of the fort near the west side, marked
D on the plan. It is arranged in the form of the letter
L reversed, and consists of a single layer of flat stones
fitted together, and opposite the centre of the lower limb
eastwards are four comparatively small stones placed in
a row and at almost equal distances.

No very certain evidence of a west rampart exists, but
structural remains on that side at the south-west corner
of the fort, marked E and F on the plan, favour the idea
that the plan as regards the fort originally embraced
such a rampart.

Mr. Barbour mentions as peculiar the construction of
a return. A cobble pavement underlies the piece of ram-

no LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

part, which is built partly of earth and partly of stone,
and the stonework agrees with the ride of Hyginus
already quoted. Undressed whin is the only description
of stone met with.

Only the one street or roadway has been discovered.
It extends in a nearly straight line from the north end of
the camp to the south, passing through the four gate-
ways, and it is surfaced with gravel, but the width is
uncertain. The four gates are opposite one another, and
supposing there were a west rampart as conjectured, the
street passing through the gateways would divide the
fort equally in two.

The relics found during the excavations were not
numerous, and consisted chiefly of fragments of pottery,
very similar to those obtained at Birrens which Dr.
Anderson considered to be of the Romano-British type.
This pottery is a thick, coarse, yellowish ware, with parts
of vessels of large size, one fragment being part of the
handle of some vessel. Charcoal was found widely dis-
tributed, and also some pieces of glass and iron. Near
the south gateway of the fort there was found a part of
a socket stone.

From these evidences and from other proofs of occu-
pation, Mr. Barbour concluded that the Raeburnfoot
camp was Roman — not, indeed, a station like Birrens,
but a camp of inferior importance. These conclusions
have received the assent both of Dr. Macdonald and
Dr. Christison, both eminent authorities. It may be
noted, however, that prior to Mr. Barbour's excavations
Dr. Macdonald was of the opinion that the rectilinear
earthworks at Raeburnfoot were merely a temporary
entrenchment, thrown up by the Romans for the security
of some punitive force sent out to quell the tribesmen,

THK ROMANS IX ESKDALE. in

a security which might have sufficed for a month or per-
haps but for a night.* The camp is readily recognisable
as of Roman origin, Mr. Harbour says, and is an in-
teresting memento of the footsteps of the Romans in the

county o( Dumfries.

GILNOCKIE CAMP.

There is also a Roman camp at New Woodhead, a
little to the north-east of Gilnockie Station. This was
surveyed in 1897 by the late Mr. James Burnet, whose
outline of the camp we here reproduce by the courtesy
of his son, Mr. James Burnet, architect, Langholm.
The camp is in the form of a parallelogram, measuring
about 506 yards on the sides and 285 yards at the ends,
and enclosing an area of thirty acres or thereabout. Mr.
Burnet was of the opinion that there had been six gates
or entrances to the camp, two on either side and one at
each end. There was a raised mound in front of each
of the gates. The gateway at the west end of the camp
has been obliterated by the North British Railway line
to Langholm, and the accommodation road on the north-
west side has destroyed the mounds and gateways on
that side. The larger part of the camp is in the planta-
tion, and the embankment can be easily traced.

There seems to be no record of any Roman relics hav-
ing been discovered at the Gilnockie camp. In 1864 a
very valuable find of brooches and coins was made at
\e\\ Woodhead, and these were held to be treasure trove.
Reference will be made to them in a later chapter. It is
enough to say here that none of the relics was Roman.

Some doubt has been thrown upon the Gilnockie camp

* My Strange Pets, p. 296,

1 1

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Yd****0*

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DC <P

I IS

PUAMTATIOH

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zesVj^^m

w a _y.

PLANTATION

THE ROMANS IN ESKDALE. 113

being Roman. It has been argued that there would not
be a camp oi this size SO near to the large one at Nether-
b\-. Bui there is nothing inherently improbable in this.
For military purposes the Romans frequently established
subsidiary camps within easy reach o( their larger sta-
tions, and this seems to have been done at Gilnockie.
Dr. Macdonald considered the camp of some import-
ance, and stated that in certain features it was distinctly
Roman. A drawing of the Camp is given on the
opposite page.

ROMAN ROADS.

Apart from the camps at Raeburnfoot and Gilnockie,
and from certain relics mentioned below, the principal
evidence that the Romans had been in Eskdale are the
roads or "ways" traceable throughout the valley. These
seem, however, to be not main roads, but vicinal or tri-
butary ways. One branch of the Watling Street of the
Romans ran through Liddesdale, and the Eskdale roads
would appear to be branches of that main road which,
starting from Stanwix, ran through Dumfriesshire in more
than one direction. The Eskdale road, however, can easily
be traced. There seems little doubt that, as already sug-
gested, the Romans readily availed themselves of the
Strategic advantages offered by some of the old British
hill-forts and the "ways" or trenches connecting them.
This they seem to have done at The Mote of Liddel.
Pennant mentionst that in his time the "way" from The
Mote to Netherby could be traced, though it ought to
be said that Pennant considered The Mote itself to be
Roman. General Roy in his Military Antiquities refers

Letter -'ist September, 1897, to Mr. James Burnet, acknowledging
copy of the accompanying' plan.

f Tour, Vol. II., p. 85.
1

ii4 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

to a Roman road which, beginning at Carlisle, ran by
Netherby, crossed the Liddel, passed by Nether Wood-
head, and then ran along the Tarras side of Whita
towards Teviotdale. Such a road would probably lead
to Newstead, where, General Roy indicated such a camp
as has since been unearthed, would be found.

It seems clear that there were Roman military "ways"
leading from Netherby into both Annandale and Esk-
dale. The principal of these can still be traced past
Nether Woodhead and across the old British camp at
Broomholm Knowe, as indicated on the plan given on
page 80. Here the roadway is quite clearly seen. It
then heads towards Glenfirra where it crosses the Esk.
It reappears in the fields at the top of the Murtholm
bank, and runs along the bottom of the fields lying south
of Stubholm. Indications of it are traceable in the Stub-
holm Wood near the Bogle-gill, and it then runs over
the Corsholm and crosses Wauchope at the Auld Caul.
Local tradition says there was a Roman bridge at this
spot, and the masonry of the abutments can still be seen
on the Manse side. Concerning the masonry there can
be no doubt, and certain antiquaries, whose opinions are
entitled to respect, consider the remains to be Roman.
This bridge was still standing in 1793, but soon after-
wards was demolished by the parish minister, the
Rev. Thomas Martin. In the Statistical Account
supplied by him for Sinclair's series, he refers to
the discovery of some Roman coins on the Cors-
holm, but is silent as to the bridge. Tradition has
it that he repented of his vandalism and discreetly left
the whole subject out of his article. To the present
writers it seems scarcely conceivable that if this bridge
had been built by the Romans it could still be safely

THE ROMANS IN ESKDALE. 115

usable in 1793-* The name, the "Auld Caul," given
to the place where it crossed Wail ch Ope, suggests
that at one time, much later certainly than the Roman
period, there hail been such a structure in the river bed.
Tradition speaks oi an old mill lade somewhere about
the foot of the Manse Brae, and it is said that the door-
steps of some of the houses in Caroline Street were
made out of covers removed from it.

Apart altogether from this bridge, however, there
seems little doubt that the Roman road crossed Wauc-
hope at or near this point. It is next seen on the
northern edge of the Becks Moss as a well defined cause-
way running- diagonally through a field towards the old
fort at Calfield. Just at this point the Moss is thickly
covered with stones, and within the memory of some
still living the pavement was distinctly visible. In the
next field the form of the road has been obliterated by the
plough. At the fort the road seems to wheel, and beyond
it, it can be seen stretching in a westerly course for nearly
half a mile until ultimately it is lost on the Moss. The
next trace of the road is just behind Westwater, where
it can be clearly seen running in a broad line, similar to
its appearance below the Calfield fort, straight up over
the hill.

On the hills round about Ilopsrig and Carlesgill, and
about the head of Boy ken Burn, certain roads can be
traced. It is the opinion of some local antiquaries that
these are also Roman roads leading over to Raeburnfoot,
but as most of them lead to old British forts it seems

* In 1721 a reference is made to the bridge in the records of the Kirk
Session : "April, 1721. No sermon, the minister being 'barred' by the
Raters. This occurred for 2 Sundays and application was made to Mr,
Melvelle to have the bridge over Wauchope put right,"

LAXGHOLM AS IT WAS.

more probable that they are akin to the "ways" referred
to by Mr. Bell in his account of the Castle O'er forts.*

Popular opinion gives another Roman bridge at
Logan head. Here some remains of masonry are visible,
indeed, the bridge, oi' which a print is given below, was

LOGANHEAD BRIDGE.

standing until the year 1901, when it fell. Mr. Welsh
inclines to the view that between this pretty and old-

* Mr. Matthew Welsh, whose knowledge of all these roads is so com-
plete, refers to an old tradition still current in Eskdale, that from the
road running along the Black Esk there branched off at Twiglees another
path, along which the smugglers brought their goods into Eskdale from
the creeks on the Galloway coast,

THE ROMANS IX ESKDALE. 117

world bridge and the various " ways " traceable on the

hills, there is a connection. This is more than probable,
but that all these were Roman is more open to doubt.
In Pingle Burn there are also remains o( masonry as of
the abutments of a bridge. A well defined roadway also
exists similar to that referred to at Calfield, towards which
it also points.

ROMAN A N T I O U III E S .

As already indicated, the memorials of the Romans
found in Eskdale, apart from those in the Netherby col-
lection, are very meagre. Undoubtedly the most note-
worthy of them all is a tablet mentioned by Dr. Wilson
in his Prehistoric Annuls of Scotland.* "The following
tablet, " he says, " thus oddly located in the Morton MS.
belongs to the district o( the Selgovas. This inscription
is in a house of Jockie Graham's, in Eskdale, fixed in a
wall, set up as appears, by the Legio Augusta Secunda
in memorial of the Emperor Hadrian " : —

IMP- CES- TRA- HAD
RIANO- AUG-
LEG- II- AUG- E-

"Camden mentions an inscription the counterpart of
this, dug up at Netherby, and Pennant^ describes another
nearly similar (possibly, indeed, the Eskdale tablet) which
he examined among the antiquities at Hoddam Castle,
Dumfriesshire." Dr. Wilson points out that "all the in-
scriptions transcribed at Hoddam were understood, where
not otherwise specified, to be from the neighbouring sta-

Vol. II. p. 67.
t Tour, Vol. III. p. 40c). The inscription is given thus: " Imp-efafori
{ aesari Trajan-o Hadrian-o Leg-to Secund-a Augww/a. "

u8 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

tion at Birrens — the Bin turn Bulgium of Antoninus, and
that the Eskdale tablet therefore forms an important
addition to the traces of the elder Emperor Hadrian
found thus far within the transmural province" — that is,
in the province of Valentia, which comprised that part
of Scotland between the Walls of Hadrian and Antoninus.

A little doubt exists as to the location of this tablet.
Some consider, on the authority of Camden, that though
this is designated an Eskdale tablet yet it rightly belongs
to the Netherby collection, — Netherby, of course, being
in a geographical sense, in Eskdale. Its being found in
the house of a Graham seems to support this view.

But Camden's story of the tablet at Netherby is not
without its elements of doubt. His words are : " . . .
and in the walls of the house [Netherby] is this Roman
inscription, set up in the memory of Hadrian the Em-
peror, by the legio secunda Augusta : —

IMP. C^S. TRA.

HADRIANO

AUG.

LEG. II. AUG. F."

But when Horsley, the well known historian, came to
Netherby and looked for this tablet described by Cam-
den, it could not be found. He says:* "this stone is
not now to be found; Mr. Gordon enquired for and I
likewise sought after it but in vain, and as part of this
house is pulled down and altered, I doubt not this stone
has been destroyed or lost in the ruins. However this
makes it evident that, the Romans were possessed of this
station [Netherby] in the reign of the Emperor Hadrian,
and by the medals both of the High and Low Empire

* Hutchinson's History of Cumberland, Vol. II. p. 534.

THE ROMANS IN ESKDALE. rig

that have been found here, it seems probable they were
long in possession oi it."

It seems \ erv strange that if Camden \</7v" this stone
at Netherby it should disappear from Netherby and

afterwards he found at Iloddam. It is true that small
differences are noticeable between the inscription given
by Camden and that given by Pennant, but these are in
such general agreement that it appears probable that
they relate to one and the same stone. The explanation
seems to be that Camden was in error in ascribing the
tablet to Netherby, and that according to the Morton
MS. the stone was found in Kskdale, as distinct entirely
from Netherby. Admittedly the place named as"a house
of ]ockie Graham's in Kskdale" is somewhat indefinite.
Its situation cannot now be determined, which is much
to be regretted. t

There have been several discoveries of Roman coins
in Kskdale, but none of them was of first importance.
About the year 1783 some gold denarii were found on
the Broomholm estate, viz., four Neros, two Vespasians,
and one Domitian. These are said by the Statist to have
been then in the possession of Lady Douglas of Douglas.

In a Latin distich published in his own day, it was said oi' Camden,

"thai lie explored England with two eyes, Scotland with one, and [re-

with none." — Imper. Diet. I'niv. Biog.

t The Grahams were not only a powerful clan on the English Border

hut their were considerable numbers of them both in lower and upper

Kskdale. Grahams, e.g. have been in the farm of Cote for ahout 200

years. So the argument from the name in favour of this tablet being at

Netherby is not conclusive. Armstrong mentions (page 111) one John

Gi Line who, in 1494 was balyffe to the Prior of Cannonby. This John

would be a well known man exercising many public functions. Is it too

inurh to suggest thai he may be the "Jockie Graham" Camden refers

Onlj 100 years separate the dates, and if the "balyffe " was a man

Wfll known and much discussed, it seems in every way likely that his

house became marked in this way. It this suggestion is right then the

tablet may have been found in Cannonby.

120 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

A Nero was found on Cannonby glebe land by the Rev.
John Russell, who was minister of the parish from 1784
to 181 5. From this it was argued that there must have
been a Roman road there ; if so, it might possibly be
the continuation of the road at New Wood head.

On the Roman road running from Broomholm Knowe
to Calfield was the cairn referred to on page 56. As
mentioned there, the urn then found was held to be
Roman. Its nearness to the Roman road would natur-
ally lead to this conclusion, but it was, as stated, much
more likely that the cairn was a Celtic and not a
Roman monument. However, farther along this road
where it crosses Wauchope some coins were discovered,
viz., one Otho and two denarii aurei, which the Statist
in 1793 said were in the possession of the family of Mr.
Little, late baron-baihe of Langholm.

A Nero was also found on the surface of the road at
Craighaugh in Eskdalemuir, but probably this coin had
been accidentally lost by some on&.

Probably there have been other finds of Roman relics
in Eskdale, but unfortunately there have been no sys-
tematic efforts to have them recorded. May we not,
owing to this, have lost many an interesting link with
ont of the most fascinating periods in the history of
Eskdale?

CHAPTER VIII.

ESKDALE IN STRATHCLYDE.

WHEN the Roman legions were recalled home in
410 A.i). to further the purposes of the usurper
Constantine, and help to stem the ravages of the Goths,
their withdrawal from the Borders produced something
approaching to chaos. The tribes who had had a
common purpose in opposing the invaders were left
hopelessly divided, and the balance of power which the
Romans had held — that "artificial fabric of civil and
military government," as Gibbon terms it* — could not
at first be assumed by any of the tribes. Certain of
these had yielded, more or less willingly, to the
Romans, who on their demission counselled them as
to the government and defence of the province. This
province, known as Valentia in honour of the Roman
Emperor, comprised roughly all the territory within
the Wall of Hadrian, stretching from the Tyne to the
Solway, and the Wall o( Antoninus, stretching between
the Firths of Forth and Clyde. This section of the
native tribes is of interest to us because those o( Esk-
dale would seem to be included therein, and the fact of
their having adopted certain of the Roman ideas may
have predisposed them to the acceptance of the Christian
faith not many generations later.

Meanwhile the influences of the Roman occupation
were soon dissipated, and the Borders were left to political
chaos and to inter-tribal conflicts and jealousies. One

Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, Vol. II. c. 31.

122 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

effect of the Roman invasion was that it planted in the
Celtic tribes the rudiments of a monarchical government,
and these ideas tended to modify their clan or tribal cus-
toms. Apart from this, and the cognate effect of in-
ducing a readiness to recognise the authority of some
central government, the influence left by the Romans
upon the Borders was imperceptible, certainly in no way
worthy of comparison with that of the later invaders.
The Saxons and the Norsemen, when they came, effected
a much more potent change upon the language and
thought and literature of the Celts, and, by inter-marriage,
upon their features, than the Romans had done.

During those years, years still much obscured by the
mists of time, the Celtic race seems to have slowly
evolved into two main branches — the Gaelic and the
Cymric or Welsh, a distinction still existing in the sep-
aration of the Scottish and Irish Gaels from those of
Wales and Cornwall. Some authorities think that the
Cymri belonged to a later Celtic race, who entered
Britain about the year 300 B.C., but this is doubtful.
It was to the Cymric branch that the tribes inhabiting
Eskdale belonged. What we now call Scotland did not,
of course, then exist as a geographical expression. The
land was appropriated by various tribes sprung from a
common Celtic stock, but as time passed, tending to de-
velop along somewhat different lines, and thus gradually
separating in purpose and sympathy.

The Picts occupied the highlands, the region beyond
the Wall of Antoninus — a land of mystery even to the
Romans. The Scots, who had come from Ireland —
or Scotia, as it was first named — occupied the Argyle dis-
trict, which afterwards became known as the kingdom of
Dalriada. The Damnii occupied Clydesdale. The

ESKDALE IN STRATHCLYDE. 123

Ottadini and Gadeni were in Selkirk, Roxburgh, and
the Lothians. The Novantae held Wigton and Gallo-
way, and what is of more intimate concern to us, Dum-
friesshire was occupied by the Selgovae. All these

tribes were of Celtic origin, but time and chance bail
drifted them into separate paths.

The tract occupied by the Selgovae extended like a
wedge from the river Derwent in the south, towards the
Clyde in the north. In after years this developed into a
more or less compact kingdom known as Strathclyde, and
later as Cumbria, with Alclyde or Dumbarton as its capital,
and at its southern extremity was the important town of
Carlisle, one of the twenty-eight towns of any consider-
able si/e existing when the Romans left. It will thus
be seen that Eskdale was almost the central valley in
Strathclyde, a geographical position which was bound
to give it considerable importance.

The adjustment to the new order of things created
by the demission of the Romans was slow, accom-
panied, too, by unrest, turmoil, and internecine strife.
The Selgovae had come under Roman influence to
some extent, and they tended, perhaps as a result
oi this, to what we might term a primitive liberalism,
in distinction to the attitude of their less advanced ov
more conservative neighbours, who had reverted to what
was most pagan in their previous customs. Except
the Picts of Galloway, who had been isolated from
these post-Roman quarrels as a pool is left by a flood,
the Strathclyde Britons were for a time the dominant
race in the lowlands.

But to this native situation a new element was to be
added which, in after centuries, would exercise an enor-
mous influence on the north of England and south of

i24 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Scotland. This was the coming of the Saxons. The
precise date of the Saxon invasion is uncertain. Bede
saws 428, but Mr. Skene, whose authority in this field of
historic research is unrivalled, says the Saxons were
growing to considerable power before this, and fixes
the date of their coming- at 374. It would appear
that during the waning of the Roman authority the
King of the Romanized Britons of Strathclyde invited
foreign aid, and in answer to his appeal a mixed migra-
tion of Frisians, Angles, Saxons, and Jutes landed on
these shores. Probably the Frisians came first, and they
left clear a indication of their colonization in the name of
Dumfries — the camp or stronghold of the Frisians.
Traces of their influence, too, are found in the dialect of
that county and of Eskdale.

By the year 547 Ida, the Saxon King, had established
himself as King of Northumbria, a tract embracing not
only what we now know by this name, but also Berwick-
shire, part of Roxburghshire, and the Lothians. These
territories were consolidated into the Saxon kingdom of
Bernicia, which marched with Strathclyde, the boundary
being probably the Catrail, as previously mentioned.
Bamburgh was the capital of this kingdom of Bernicia.

At this date, therefore, Scotland and northern England
as far as the H umber, were partitioned into four king-
doms inhabited by the Picts, Scots, Cumbrians, and
Saxons. Thereafter the history of the country was
simply the story of the contests and warfare waged by
these four parties for the choicest and fairest tracts of
territory, or for political domination.

Constant warfare was carried on between the Britons
of Strathclyde and the invading Saxon, who was ulti-
mately to colonise the valleys of almost the entire

ESKDALE IX STRATHCLYDE. 125

lowlands, and stamp both his physical and mental

characteristics upon the old Celtic race. It is these
wars between Briton and Saxon, with their deeds o(
prowess which provided the foundation on which rest the
historical or legendary tales o( Arthur, the ll leader o\
the battles" oi the Strathclvde Britons the hero o( so
much poetry and romance. Arthur was the representa-
tive of the Christian faith, which had begun to exert a
powerful influence in the lowlands, especially among
the Britons who inhabited Eskdale and the adjacent
dales. His prowess and chivalry have provided the
motive for the creation o( a considerable range of litera-
ture, exalting his virtues and celebrating his fame.
Milton, who at one time meditated an Arthurian epic,
seems to have regarded Arthur as more legendary than
historical, but Tennyson in his Idylls of the Kino- and
The Holy (trail so gives form and shape to legend and
tradition, that the Arthurian story will live in literature
as the embodiment of all that was romantic and chival-
rous in that far off and tumultuous day.

The story of Arthur is referred to here, not to claim him
is an Eskdale man (which might indeed be safely done
without fear of contradiction— or proof!) but because
many of his famous exploits are admitted to have been
performed in the district of which Eskdale is the centre.
His Twelve Battles were the outstanding features of his
campaign, or crusade — for so it was regarded.* Though
none of these great battles seems to have been fought in
or near Eskdale, unless, indeed, the seventh was fought
in Ettrick Eorest — "the gloomy skirts of Celidon, the

It is said that in one battle Arthur himself, by virtue of an image of
the Virgin engraven on his shield, was enabled to slay large numbers of

!ns enemies. Prof. Yeinh's History and Poetry of the Scottish Border,

V- 73-

126 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

forest,"* — as Professor Veitch seems to suggest, yet the
Scottish lowlands was the scene of most if not all of
them. We have indications of this connection in such
names as Arthur's Seat and Arthur's Oven. Whether
Arthur really existed, whether his virtues and glorious
deeds are the posthumous honours paid to some old
Celtic chieftain, whether the Bards of the Cymri
created him, and Geoffrey of Monmouth, with his
romantic imagination, idealized him, is beyond our
province to discuss. + Nevertheless, it is of interest to
every Eskdale man to note the connection of Arthur
with the district, even though it be only legendary. We
have this connection in the name Arthuret, an ancient
and charming parish near to Netherby and Longtown.
The name is the modernised form of Ardderyd, the
scene of one of the determining battles of the early
Christian period. This battle was fought in 573, but
Arthur himself seems to have been slain in battle in
537, not by the hostile Saxon, whose persistent advance
he so strenuously opposed, but, alas, by his own disloyal
followers. The scene of the battle of Ardderyd, says
Mr. Skene,. t " was at Arthuret, situated on a raised plat-
form on the west side of the river Esk, about eight miles
north of Carlisle. . . . Two small hills here are
called Arthuret Knowes, and the top of the highest,
which over hangs the river, is fortified by an earthen
rampart. About four miles north of this is a stream
which flows into the Esk and bears the name of Car-

* Tennyson's Lancelot a?id Elaine. — This Idyll gives a list of the
Twelve Battles, the localities of which seem scarcely to harmonise with
either Air. Skene or Prof. Veitch's list.

t This subject is impartially dealt with by Sir James Macintosh, in his
Britain after t/ie Romans.

X Celtic Scotland, Vol. I. p. 158.

ESKDALE IX STRATHCLYDE. 127

whinelow, in which the name oi Gwendolew, the
leader of the pagan tribes, can be easily recognised,
and near the junction of the Esk and Liddel, at
no great distance from it, is the magnificent hill fori
called the Mote of Liddel. Here this great battle was
fought, the centre of a group of Welsh traditions. It
resulted in the victory of the Christian party and the
establishment of Rhydderch as the King oi' the Cum-
brian Britons."

'Idie battle seems to have been one oi' great ferocity
if we may judge from the traditions of it handed down
In- the Hards. It lasted over forty-six days, and when
"the war drum throbbed no longer" some 80,000
corpses, it is said, were left in the meadows between the
vales of Esk and Liddel. + Of this battle the Bard sang:

"Guendydd loves me not, greets me not,
I .im hated by the chiefs of Rhydderch,
For after- Gwendolew no princes honour me,
Yet in the hattle of Ardderyd I wore the golden torques."

Amongst those who fought in this great battle was one
Nud, whose name is found on an inscribed stone, kk The
Muckle Stane," discovered in Yarrow. He was buried
under a tumulus there.

Rhydderch Hael, King of the Strathclyde Britons,
was killed in 603 near the Nine Stane Rig in Hermitage
Water. After his death the warfare among the tribes
occupying the lowlands continued without intermission,
hut the conflicting groups were not defined. They

Mr. John Reid lias put forward the interesting suggestion that simi-
larly Rhydderch Hael, the leader of the Christianized Cumbrians, has
left a trace of his own name in " Riddings." In a map of the Debate-
able Land dated 1500 the spelling is "ye Rydings." In Bleau's repro-
duction of Timothy Pout's map oi' 160S it is named " Ryidbanck."

t Bogg's Border Country, p. 317. It is to be noted that Mr. Skene
floes not give any of these- figures in his Celtic Scotland. They should,
therefore, hi' accepted with considerable reserve.

128 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

arranged themselves first into one combination, then into
another. It was out of these groupings that the Scottish
nation finally emerged, a result attained only after several
centuries o( faction and fighting. In the see-saw of this
fightings with all its details of victory and defeat, we
have only a partial interest here, — that which is aroused
by the part played in these civil wars and political
evolutions by Eskdale or Strathclyde.

At first the conflict lay, roughly, between east and
west. The Scots of Dalriada and the Britons of Strath-
clyde united their forces to wage war upon the Angles
of Bernicia, — that long stretch of fertile country border-
ing the North Sea from the Tees almost to the Forth, —
and their vassals the Picts of Galloway.

Between the Britons of Strathclyde and the Saxons
of Bernicia there was carried on a fierce and almost
continuous warfare. Lying so near the boundary
line between the two kingdoms, Eskdale would share
largely in these conflicts. But its hills and ravines,
and the Catrail itself, if this indeed were its purpose,
proved only a temporary defence to the Britons, for
the Saxons and Frisians spread themselves over Strath-
clyde in a persistent and successful invasion. The
Celts were either put to the sword or became the serfs
of the mixed Teutonic hordes who now filled the beau-
tiful lowland valleys.

It was this invading race which was destined to give
to us that language which, mixed with the earlier Celtic
and the later Norse, forms to-day the speech of the
Scottish lowlands, — a vivid, picturesque, and flexible
language which is dear to the heart of every lowlander, a
language immortalized in prose and poetry, but especially
in song.

ESKDALE IN STRATHCLYDE. 129

On the death o( Rhydderch Had the leadership o(
the combined forces against the Saxons was assumed
by the King o( the Scots, and for a time the allies
observed their offensive and defensive agreement. But

within another generation the Scots and Britons were
themselves at war. This conflict resulted in the
latter, the Britons o( Strathclyde, subduing the Scots,
who thereafter yielded them allegiance. This in turn
gave place to the supremacy of the Angles, who thus
secured under their domination, not only the Picts
o( Galloway but the Scots and the Britons as well.
Phis overship lasted some thirty years, and as the king-
dom of Northumbria, which was virtually identical with
Bernicia, and was inhabited by Angles and their kinsfolk,
was a Christian country under King Osuin, it must have
left upon Strathclyde, and not least upon Eskdale, be-
cause of its geographical position, an impress which has
lasted throughout all the succeeding centuries.

In 685 still another change occurred in the balance of
power. On the initiative of the Pictish tribes Northum-
bria was invaded, and its King, now Ecgfrid, son of
Osuin, was killed in the battle of Dunnichen. This
battle was decisive, and its immediate result was to liber-
ate nearly all those tributaries of Northumbria to whom
reference has just been made. In this release, however,
there were certain of the Strathclyde Britons who failed
to break their serfdom to the powerful Angles. We read
that the Picts of Galloway and the Britons residing be-
tween the Solway and the Derwent still remained in
vassalage to the Angles of Bernicia, and as the latter
could only gain access to Galloway by way of the
northern shores of the Solway, it would seem to follow
that the tribes occupying the districts of Annandale and

130 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Eskdale may also have remained in subjection to their
ancient enemies, though the records appear to indicate
that the people of Dumfriesshire were amongst those
liberated. The tribes who, by the battle of Dunnichen,
had gained their freedom from the Anglic sway, main-
tained it for a period of forty years. During these years
considerable fighting took place between the quondam
allies, the Scots of Dalriada and the Britons of Strath-
clyde. Whether the Eskdale tribes participated in these
conflicts does not seem clear. In 731 the persistent
Angles seem again to have asserted their dominance
over the Britons." A few years later the old alliances
re-appear, Scots and Britons sinking their cousinly dif-
ferences to co-operate against the Angles and their Celtic
allies, the Galloway Picts. As a result of several years
desultory fighting, the Anglic King Eadbert, with his
Pictish ally, Angus, led an army against the Strathclyde
Britons, whose submission they succeeded in compelling
at Dumbarton in 756. So once again the tribes of Esk-
dale would be under the power and influence oi' the
Angles and Saxons — a very important factor in the later
evolution of the character, appearance, and speech of
the people of the district.

The history of this whole period is admittedly obscure
and mostly unreliable, but this fact seems established,
that towards the end of the eighth century, in 793, a
new factor intruded itself into these swift alternations in
the struggle for supremacy. This was the piratical and
harassing raids of the Norsemen — Danes and Norwe-

* It has been said of the Britons of that day that "their disposition
was fierce and warlike, their hatred to the Saxons inveterate, and above
all their country was mountainous and abounded with lakes, marshes,
moors, and forests." — McFarlane nnd Thompson's History of Engla?id,
Vol. I. p. 71.

ESKDALE IN STRATHCLYDE. [31

gians, who swooped down upon the northern coasts and
harried with consistent impartiality all the old contesting
races. These raids seem to have been almost incessant
during the first half of the ninth century. In 875 the
Danes again ravaged the cast coast, laying waste not
only Northumbria, which lav most exposed to their on-
slaughts, but destroying in their wantonness the people
of Strathclyde also.

Possibly owing to these frequent raids the kingdom of
Northumbria, ever liable to attack along its lengthy sea-
hoard, had fallen into a state of disorganization, and that
domination which for many years of the ninth century the
Angles had exercised over the Britons of southern Strath-
el vde, or Cumbria as it had come to be called, came to an
end. Giric, the King o( the Britons, invaded Bernicia, or
Saxonia, and restored Strathclyde, from the Clyde to
the Derwent, to its old independence under a native
British King.

Perhaps the next most important event in the dim his-
tory of our Eskdale forefathers was in the year 924, when
the King of Wessex received the " submission " of the
Seots and the people of Strathclyde, as well as of the
Northumbrians. In 934 Athelstan defeated Osuin, King
ot Cumbria, and Constantin, King of Scots, and ravaged
their territories. From these successes of the King of
Wessex, efforts have been made to show that the Scottish
lowlands lost their independence, but the people them-
selves do not appear to have so regarded their
position, and a great united effort was speedily made
to dispute this claim. The Britons of Cumbria, to-
gether with the Danes from Dublin as temporary
allies, who had probably landed in the Solway and
travelled across Annan dale and Eskdale, supplied a

132 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

contingent for this supreme effort. We are told*
that they crossed the hills separating Cumbria from the
Anglic kingdom of Saxonia, formerly Bernicia, and in
the great battle which followed, whose site Mr. Skene
places at Aldborough, in Yorkshire, they bore their part
in the fight for independence, a fight, however, which
went all in favour of the Saxon Athelstan, who drove
the Scottish and Cumbrian Kings back to their ships and
slew most of their troops. In 942, five years after this
battle, Malcolm succeeded to the Scottish throne, and
during his reign an important consolidation was effected
by the cession of Cumbria to the Scots, the first of a
series of events whose culmination was the forma-
tion of a united kingdom of Scotland. The im-
mediate occasion of the cession was that the Saxon
King, Edmund, who had been incessantly harrying the
territories of the Cumbrians, of which Donald, son of
Osuin, was King, had granted these territories to Mal-
colm as the price of his vassalage. It is probably to this
period in the history of Eskdale that we may ascribe a
not inconsiderable share of that Saxon influence which
made itself felt in the district. These ravages of Cum-
bria by the Saxons continued, but were resisted by
Kenneth, grandson of Donald, in whose reign the amal-
gamation of the Cumbrians and the Scots was effected.
About this date, too, 1005, the Picts and Scots were
united under Malcolm.

In the year 1018 whilst still under the dominion of Mal-
colm, King of Scots, the Cumbrian King, Eugenius, in-
vaded Northumbria and fought a great battle at Carham
on Tweed, when many were slain. Mr. Skene records' the

* Skene's Celtic Scotland, Vol. I. p. 353.
t Idem, Vol. I. p. 393.

ESKDALE IN STRATHCLYDE. 133

story told by Simeon o( Durham how about thai time a
comet appeared presaging the calamity o( this war.

The most important effect of this victory by the Scots
King was that the territory o( Saxon ia, as far south as
the Tweed, was ceded to him. His kingdom of Scotia
now embraced the whole of the present area of Scotland,
except the lands in the western islands and in Caithness
and Galloway, which were in the possession of the Nor-
wegians, but it included that portion of Cumbria which
lay between the Solway and the river Derwent.

But even this important amalgamation did not entirely
relieve Eskdale from war and strife, indeed its days of
peace and rest were not to dawn for several centuries.

In the year 1044 Duncan, King of Scotia, grandson
o\ Malcolm, was murdered by Macbeth who seized the
throne. Mr. Skene suggests that Cumbria remained
faithful to the children of the murdered king. In 1054
Siward, Earl oi Northumberland, of Danish descent,
assisted Duncan to execute vengeance upon the murderer
of his father, and having defeated him, though he could
not just then drive him from the throne of Duncan,
he placed Malcolm in possession of Cumbria, which
though then wedged off from Scotia included the
Lothians. The Cumbrians recognised Malcolm as
their king, and three years later he succeeded in de-
priving Macbeth of the throne and thus became King
o( Scotia, an event which may be said to mark the birth
of Scotland as a well defined country. In 1068 Malcolm
married Margaret, a sister of Edgar Atheling, who was
destined to exert a most powerful and humane influence
Over both her warlike husband and his subjects, and was
largely instrumental in extending the Christian faith
throughout Scotland. Two years later, perhaps before

134 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Margaret's influence had made itself felt, Malcolm organ-
ized an expedition into England. He marched through
Cumberland and Durham, ravaged all the country be-
tween Tyne and Tees, burning St. Peter's church at
Wearmouth and carried back to Scotland many prisoners,
"slaves and handmaidens of the English race, so that
even to this day, I do not say no little village but even
no cottage can be found without one of them."* These
people settled in the lowlands and helped to Saxonize
the district. A Celtic king sat on the throne but the
power was gradually passing away from that long line
arising from the oldest Aryan colonists in Europe. t

In 1092 the Scottish King lost that part of the terri-
tory of Cumbria which lay between the Solway and the
river Derwent, with Carlisle as its chief town. This was
wrested from Malcolm by William the Conqueror, who
had secured the English throne after his coming in 1066.
In this reprisal Malcolm was slain at Alnwick. His
reign had lasted thirty-five years, and at his death the
kingdom had been welded into a fairly compact nation.

After several years of unsettled government David,
youngest son of Malcolm, came to the throne. He first
reigned over the ancient territories of Strathclyde and
Cumbria and the Lothians, and then in the year 11 24
he assumed the sovereignty over the whole of Scotland.
David's attempt to add Northumberland to Scotland led
in 1 138 to the Battle of the Standard. In this great and
decisive battle the Cumbrians formed one wing, together
with the men of Teviotdale. No doubt the Eskdale men
were also in this contingent. David, however, was

* Simeon of Durham. Quoted by Mr. Skene: Celtic Scotland, Vol. I.
p. 422.

t Wilson's Prehistoric Annals of Scotland, Vol. II. p. 397.

ESKDALE IN STRATHCLYDE. [35

defeated, and the Solway, the Cheviots, and the Tweed
wore made the southern boundary o( his kingdom.
With the reign oi David there began a new era in
Scottish history.

CHAPTER IX.

THE CHRISTIAN ERA.

EVEN amidst all the wars and turmoils mentioned
in the last chapter, a new light was slowly dawn-
ing amongst the Eskdale hills. The Christian faith,
whose way had been prepared in the province of Valentia
by the Roman conquerors, began slowly to influence the
life of the tribes. The Britons of Strathclyde were re-
garded as the Christian party among the ancient Celtic
tribes, and the great battle of Arderydd was in one sense,
(a subordinate one certainly), a religious conflict, in which
Rhydderch Hael, the British King, was the Defender of
the Faith.

The Christianity of these early centuries in Britain
was not an apostolic faith. Many of the observances
of Celtic paganism had been incorporated into the new
religion, as diplomatic concessions, partly to the preju-
dices of the tribes, and partly to the force ot custom, to
which even then our Scottish forefathers seem to have
been wedded ! It was during these early years of trans-
ition that many of the rites, referred to in Chapter VI.,
were allowed to become ingrafted upon the recently plant-
ed faith. During the sixth and seventh centuries rulers
and church councils continued to denounce the pagan
practices of some of their converts. Even so late as the
eleventh century it was found necessary "to strictly dis-
charge and forbid our subjects to worship the gods of the
Gentiles — that is to say the sun, moon, fires, rivers, fount-
ains, hills, and trees, or woods of any kind." The Norse
invasions of the eighth and ninth centuries were perhaps

THE CHRISTIAN ERA. [37

quite as disastrous to the early Christian communities as
they were to the civil liberties of the people, and Norse
paganism infected the entire thought o( the age. It is
seen, indeed, even to the present day in the names we
attach to the days of the week.

The source of Scottish Christianity, apart from any
influence that may have lingered from the Roman occu-
pation, was the Irish mission on Iona, established by
St. Columba about the year 563. It ought ever to be
remembered that the introduction of the Christian faith
into Scotland was separate from, and independent of, the
mission of St. Augustine to England. The two move-
ments were in no way associated. The early Church in
Scotland was a Church independent both of Rome and
England.

The monks of Iona had established a mission at Lin-
disfarne, off the Northumbrian coast, and it was through
its instrumentality that the conversion of Northumbria
to the Christian faith was effected, and for many years
the Lindisfarne community remained subordinate eccle-
siastically to Iona. It was not until the famous Synod
of Whitby, presided over by the Abbess Hilda in 664,
that the Northumbrian Church submitted to Rome. It
was twenty-four years later when events, largely political,
produced a like submission of the Christians of Strath-
dyde. The earliest Christian community in the south
o\ Scotland was established at Candida Casa, or Whithern,
among the Picts of Galloway. As Eskdale was, partially
at least, Christianized before the Roman demission in 410,
it is not improbable that it came within the sphere of in-
fluence of Whithern, though we admit there is no evi-
3ence supporting the suggestion that there was any
Christian community established in Eskdale at or near
that period.

i;vS LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The founding of the church on Iona by St. Columba
and his twelve companions from the Irish Church has
ever possessed a unique interest for the student of eccle-
siastical history, but to the people of Eskdale and of
Strathclyde generally, it is of equal, if not greater, inte-
rest to note that St. Patrick, who became the patron
saint of Ireland, was a native of Strathclyde,* and that
his influence seems to have been more potent in the Dum-
friesshire area than even that of St. Columba himself.
We may not, without proof, claim St. Patrick as an
Eskdale man, yet it may be suggested that his birth-
place was in the shire. Judging from the evidences
found in the place-names, St. Patrick would appear
to have left a greater impress upon Dumfriesshire,
than upon any other part of Scotland. We have
Kirkpatrick-Fleming, Kirkpatrick-Irongray, and Kirk-
patrick-Juxta. His name appears, too, in the place-
names of Eskdale. In an old thirteenth century charter
delineating certain boundaries, reference is made to the
fountain of St. Patrick, f in the neighbourhood of Stapel-
gortoun, — no doubt one of the many holy wells then
existing, though its site cannot now be identified. Such
dedications indicate the popularity of the Saint, and they
usually point to his having laboured in that district. It
may also have been due to the influence of St. Patrick
that there existed a friendly intercourse, if not indeed an
organic union, between the early Church in Ireland and
the Christian communities of Strathclyde. Doubtless
in this association St. Bridget, or St. Bride, as she was
popularly named in the lowlands, had also a share. St.

* Skene's Celtic Scotland, Vol. II. p. 19.
t Armstrong's History of Liddesdale, Eskdale, &c, p. 152. — '• Begin-
ning- at the end of Langholm, as the fountain of St. Patrick runs down
into the Eske."

THE CHRISTIAN ERA. 139

Bridget was the Virgin Saint of Ireland. She was cou-
temporary with St. Patrick, and was far renowned for

her faith and works of charity. She exercised a gracious
influence upon the imagination o\ the early Church, both
in Ireland and Scotland, and excited the admiration and
imitation o( its adherents. Kildare church was dedi-
cated to her, and became the mother-church of all similar
foundations which bore the name of the Virgin Saint.
Early in the eighth century a chapel at St. Andrews,
one of seven, was dedicated to her — "to God and St.
Bridgid till the day o( Judgment," and the famous old
church at Abernethy was also dedicated "to God and
St. Bridgid." In the highlands and islands of Scotland
dedications to her were frequent. "The Hebrides paid
her divine honors : to her the greatest number of their
churches were dedicated : from her they had oracular
responses. ' By the divinity of St. Brigid ' was one of
their solemn oaths : to her they devoted the first day of
Februarv, and in the evening of that festival performed
inan\- strange ceremonies of a Druidical and most super-
stitious kind." St. Bridget died in 525,+ and her Life
was compiled in the first half of the ninth century.t

Reference at such length is here made to St. Bridget
because to her was dedicated what was probably the
earliest Christian church in Eskdale. The name lingers
still in St. Bride's Chapel and St. Bride's Hill in Wauc-
hopedale, a little to the north-west of the Schoolhouse.
The site of the chapel seems to have been on the top of
the hill separating Westwater from Cleuchfoot. Doubt-
less the first building would be a very simple structure

Pennant's Tour, Vol. III. p. 184, quoting Doctor Macpherson.

+ Pennant ( 'Tour, Vol. III. p. 183) says she died in 513.
t Skene's Celtic Scotland, Vol. II. p. 29b.

*4°

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

of timber and wattles according to "the custom of the
Scots," so often mentioned by Bede. This in time would
be replaced by the usual stone building, which probably
for many generations would suffice for the spiritual
wants of Wauchopedale. Armstrong mentions* that
in 1 220 it was agreed by arbitration in the dispute be-
tween the Bishop of Glasgow and the Abbot of Jedburgh
44 in regard to the Church of Walleuhope that the vicar
. should have five merks uplifted in the said

THE CHAPEL STANE.

Church." This no doubt was the Chapel of St. Bride,
which would be in the diocese of the Prior of Canonby.
Probably the only relic left of this second church is a large
stone, a drawing of which is here given, known in Wauc-

* History of Liddesdale , Eskdale, &c. p. 107

THE CHRISTIAN ERA. 141

hoped ale as "The Chapel Stane," still lying on what
the Ordnance Map marks as the site o( St. Bride. It is

a sandstone of the district measuring nearly seven feet in
girth and weighing approximately eight cuts. It is rudely
worked and has evidently been used as a receptacle for
holy water, possibly as a baptismal font, or more likely
still, as a porch stone. Near to St. Bride's Hill are the
Chapel Grains and Chapel Clench, and there are other
indications in the local place-names, of St. Bride's having
been once upon a time a centre of the life and light of
Wauchopedale.

In Cumberland there is a village of Bridekirk, which
contains the famous baptismal font whose inscribed runes,
said to be Saxon, have occasioned so much learned dis-
cussion amongst archaeologists. The date of the founding
of this Cumberland Kirk of St. Bride is not known, but
from the fact of the Saxon runes it may be inferred to be
not much later than the seventh century. There is also a
Bridekirk in Annandale, almost opposite to that in Cum-
berland— each a lighthouse, as it were, for the Sol way.
The Annandale Bridekirk is in the parish of Hoddam,
and it may be that it was one of the early foundations o{
the See of Hoddam, established by St. Kentigern. It
is not unlikely that these three churches were estab-
lished about the same date. The private chapel of the
Douglases, founded in the thirteenth century, was also
dedicated to St. Bride.*

Though the name of Columba stands pre-eminent as
the apostle of early Scottish Christianity, yet it is not so
much to him as to St. Kentigern that the veneration of the
people of Dumfriesshire has been given. St. Kentigern,

* Scott's Border Minstreh

\V, p. 12,

142 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

or St. Mungo as he was affectionately called,* left upon
the whole district of Strathclyde an influence that was
deep and lasting. To the people of Dumfriesshire it
is a matter of interest and pride that his first diocese
was at Hoddam in Annandale. After the battle of
Arderydd, in which Rhydderch Hael was victorious,
when the persecution of the pagan chief who had
seized the government waxed great, St. Kentigern,
like many of his compatriots, was driven for safety
from Strathclyde into Wales. But when the Christian
party again rose to power he was recalled, and as already
mentioned, he established his first See at Hoddam. No
doubt can exist that his diocese embraced Eskdale, for in
that era of transition the ethnic boundaries were generally
also the diocesan boundaries, and the people of Annan-
dale and Eskdale were of the same kith and kin. There is
no evidence of any subsequent dedication to him of any
church in the neighbourhood, which, however, is not with-
out its witness to his labours. Old documents show that
over 200 years ago there existed, apparently somewhere
between Calfield and Westwater, a farm known as Cross-
Mungo. This is interesting, not only as a reminiscence
of the Saint, but also as an indication that at this place
there had existed, in the early days, one of those wayside
crosses which holy men of old set up as a call to the de-
votions of the passers by, and that they had associated it
with the labours of the venerated Saint. When St. Ken-
tigern returned from Wales his biographer, Jocelyn, who
became Bishop of St. Kentigern's old See of Glasgow,
says he travelled by way of Carlisle, but whether by An-
nandale or Eskdale is not stated.

After St. Kentigern, came St. Cuthbert, fruitful in many
labours, who left a deep and permanent impression on

* The name Mungo was a term of endearment in the ancient British
language, meaning- "dear friend." Kentigern signified "chief lord."

THE CHRISTIAN KKA. 143

the early Church, both in the south of Scotland and
north of England. That Eskdale was not outside St.
Cuthbert's sphere oi' influence is seen by the dedication
to his memory of the Over- Kirk of Ewes, founded prob-
ably in the early part of the 13th century, and situated
at Un thank where the graveyard still exists. There is no
dedication to St. Cuthbert in Eskdale, a fact which indi-
cates the separate part played by Ewesdale in the early
days. Ecclesiastically Ewes was under Melrose which
was first in Saxonia, the scene of St. Cuthbert's early
labours, but was afterwards transferred to Glasgow,
whose diocese embraced the whole district of Strathclyde.

The church founded by St. Ninian at Whithern in
Galloway, had been dedicated to St. Martin of Tours.*
The dedications to St. Martin in Eskdale are, first, in the
twelfth century, the Priory of Canonby, and next, found-
ed about the thirteenth century, + the ancient church at
Boykin, or By ken, in Westerkirk. Though the Over-
Kirk of Ewes had been dedicated to St. Cuthbert, some
influence of the earlier dedications to St. Martin seems
to have lingered in the valley. We have a suggestion
of this in the place-name of Martin hope, shown on
Bleau's map of 1662 as contiguous to Unthank.

We have another indication of the early days of the
Christian Church in Eskdale in the name of St.
Thorwald's. The derivation of the name is not easy
to trace. The name Thor is not infrequently met
with, e.g., in Torthorwald, a village associated with
the early years of J. G. Paton, the well known mission-
ary of the New Hebrides. Probably the name in both

"The feast of St. Martin [Martinmas] was adopted from an old
pagan custom." — Encyclo. Brit.

t Armstrong, p. 99.

144 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

cases relates to Thor the Long, a Saxon settler, who on
the invitation of Edgar, son of King Malcolm, estab-
lished a religious settlement at Ednam, or Edenham, on
the Tweed, the birthplace of Thomson the poet, author
of The Seasons'. It is related that there, in the twelfth
century, Thor the Long built a church in honour of St.
Cuthbert, and it is not an extravagant suggestion that
the name and fame of Thor may have extended to Esk-
dale, and that the dedication to St. Cuthbert of the
Over-Kirk of Ewes, may have been due to the influence
of the Saxon devotee. The addition of "Saint" to
the name of Thor may have been a popular rather than
a canonical recognition of his generosity and many
virtues.

Tradition associates a nameless monk with a cell
at what is now called the "Thief Stane Quarry, " and
it is said that the doorstep of Clinthead House, Lang-
holm, was cut out of the stone which guarded the
entrance to the cell. What truth there is in the legend
it is impossible to say.*

At New Woodhead, Canonby, there were discovered
in 1864 certain relics of the early Christian Church in
this district. These were held to be treasure trove, and
are now deposited in the National Museum of Antiqui-
ties, Edinburgh. The find consisted of brooches, rings,
and beads, together with some silver pennies of Edward
I. and Edward II., of John Baliol and Alexander III.

* In the Eskdale and Liddesdale Advertiser of September 17th, 1902,
there appeared a reprint of an article taken from the Scots Weekly Mag-
azine of April 1 8th, 1833, describing- the life of the " Monk of Whita
Well," whom it named "St. Toddle" — a corruption of St. Thorwald.
Probably the article in question was meant to be a piece of ingenious
fooling, though some have estimated it as a serious contribution to local
history.

THE CHRISTIAN ERA. 145

NEW WOODHEAD BROOCH.

Most interest attaches to the brooch here represented.
"It is circular in shape, formed o( a rod of silver, 3^
inches in diameter, ornamented with six rosettes alternat-
ing with six ornamented knobs."* The pin of the brooch
was missing. A second brooch, also of silver, 2^ inches
in diameter, was inscribed " IHESUS NAZARENUS
REX." A third was imperfect, with "lozenge shaped
ornaments covered with diapered pattern." There was
another brooch similar to the first, but broken. There
wore also found some finger rings and jet beads.

In [851 a similar discovery was made near Middleby
church. Writing of the Middleby and similar specimens
of early Christian art Dr. Wilson says,t "such Christian
amulets indeed appear to have been exceedingly com-
mon, so that examples might be greatly multiplied.
But most, if not all of them, belong to a later period
than the Scoto-Scandinavian or Celtic relics, or the con-

Calalogue of National Museum of Antiquities, iSq2 ed. p. 358.

t Prehistoric Annals t Vol. II. p. 315.
I

146 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

temporary specimens of Anglo-Saxon workmanship
graven in northern runes."

These discoveries at New Woodhead may be set down
as belonging, approximately, to the early part of the
fourteenth century. The lands of Woodhead were part
of the possessions of the Priory of Canonby, and were
included in the Barony of Tarras, erected in 1606.

That the entire district bordering on the shores of the
Solway Firth was well advanced in Christian civiliza-
tion, even at an early date, is well attested by the two re-
markable specimens of Christian art, already referred to
on page 53, — the two Crosses, one at Ruthwell, in
Dumfriesshire and the other at Bewcastle, in Cumberland.
It is probably to about the period of the ninth cent-
ury that these monuments must be assigned. * After
much learned controversy, it seems to be clearly estab-
lished that the Ruthwell inscriptions are not in north-
ern or Scandinavian runes, but in Anglo-Saxon, and
this indicates as the approximate date, the time when
the Northumbrian Church was missioning the whole of
Cumbria and Bernicia. The Bewcastle Cross is akin in
design to that at Ruthwell, and the two are representa-
tive of the Christian art of the early Church. Situated
as it is between these two districts, Eskdale would come
under the same influences, though there no similar relics
have been discovered, but in the old church at Hoddam
stones engraven in runic characters were found in 181 5.

* Buchanan considered that both the Bewcastle Cross and the Bnde-
kirk Font were Danish, and that they were the only monuments of that
nation left in Britain.

Many of the symbolic details of the Ruthwell and Bewcastle Crosses
have been made use of by Mr. C. C. Hodges, of Hexham, the architect
oi' the beautiful Csedmon Cross at Whitby, and the Bede Cross at Sun-
derland.

CHAPTER X.

THE ETHNOLOGY OV ESKDALE.

OUR knowledge of the races inhabiting the
British Islands in the prehistoric ages is vague

and uncertain. It is impossible to say definitely when,
in the great series o( migrations, one race disappeared
and another took its place. These movements are gene-
rally gradual. The fusion o( one race with another, the
changes o\ form and feature or oi language, are only
slowly effected. Especially is this so during coloniza-
tion. Then the modifications are brought about by
individuals and families, and extend over several gene-
rations. When, instead of colonization, there has been
war, tribes are exterminated and the changes are sudden
and swift. Both of these agents have at various times
helped in the ethnic movements in the Esk valley.

Elsewhere we have indicated that, at the date of the
building o( the Girdle Stanes, about 1290 B.C., the in-
habitants of Eskdale were of the Iberian race. We say
this without committing ourselves to either side in the
great ethnological discussion which ever gathers round
the word Iberian. There is so much ignorance and mist
ha iging over those far past ages, that in place of definite
knowledge we are thrown back upon mere conjecture.
But, where history is silent, archaeology has come to our
iid, and we may assume as a convenient working theory
that the builders of the stone circles of Eskdale were at
least of a non-Aryan race, whether Iberian, as so many
authorities suppose, or even Semitic, as Lockyer seems
inclined to believe, it is not possible on our present inform-

148 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

ation to determine absolutely. We cannot even say that
this was the first race to inhabit Eskdale. The valley
did not come into existence when its people began to
build stone circles, and doubtless before then people
lived there whose antiquity makes even the Stone Age
a modern era !

All the processes of evolution have been at work in
Eskdale to produce that type to which its present inhab-
itants belong. Each succeeding race has left its legacy in
colour of hair or of eyes, in cranial shape, in stature, in
feature, or in language. The blending of many and
varied traits of character, the modification of old forms
and the production of new, extend themselves over long
periods of time. But it will be most convenient for our
present purpose to assume the history of Eskdale as be-
ginning about 1290 B.C., the date, ascertained by Mr.
Goldsbrough, of the erection of the Girdle Stanes.

THE IBERIAN.

Of the race who set up these circles very little
1 290 B.c.f is known. Ethnologists speak of them as

dark and small of stature, but these features
are also held to be characteristic of the succeeding race,
who dispossessed the Iberian. By certain authorities in
ethnology it is accepted as proved that about the time of
the Roman invasion these Islands were inhabited by two
types of people, one fair in complexion, the other dark.
The latter are considered to have been the Iberians, the
former the Gauls or Celts. If this be correct, then we
must assume that the Iberians had persisted from the
Stone Age down to the Roman period, despite the evi-

* It need scarcely be pointed out that this and the following- dates are
only approximate,

THE ETHNOLOGY OF ESKDALE. 149

dence of the barrows that, alter the Celtic migration, there
was a swift modification and merging oi~ races. The
Iberian race formed the basis of the present population
of Spain, Italy, and Other Latin countries, but its pre-
cipe place in the family of nations has never been satis-
factorily settled. The researches in the most ancient bar-
rows point to this early race having been long- skulled, and
Dr. Thurman, one of the chief authorities on craniology,
attributes these long skulls to the Iberian race of the
Stone Age. Lord Avebury thinks that the race suc-
ceeding this long-skulled people also belonged to the
Stone Age, and archaeology shows that this was probable
even if it is not definitely settled.

In Eskdale this supposed Iberian race left no traces of
its lite, excepting the stone circles, and possibly some of
the standing stones of the district. They were accus-
tomed, it is said, to bury their dead, yet no trace of any
of their burial places exists if, as we assume, the cairns
and cists all belong to the succeeding or Celtic age.
Had any record been kept of the skull measurements
o( the skeletons found at Airdswood Moss or West-
water, some indication at least would have been given
which would have enabled the archaeologist to form
a surer opinion than he dare now offer. Nor is there
any trace of Iberian words in the language of the people.
1 ndeed, on^ of the weighty objections against the assump-
tion that they ever peopled these Islands is the absence
ot their influence in any of our lingual forms. The
Basque language, spoken in the north of Spain, is be-
lieved to be the lineal descendant of the Iberian. Nor
can it be confidently said that there exists any relic of
their dwelling places. In a previous chapter reference has
been made to the stone rings oi Eskdale, and the sug-

i50 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

gestion noted that these might have been "Picts' Houses."
But the recent discovery of a neolithic village at Fewstone,
in Yorkshire, seems to suggest the idea that these rings
might be remains of the hut-circles of a people who in-
habited Eskdale during the earlier or Stone Age. The
smallness of the number o( these stone rings may be com-
pensated for by the large number of hill-forts. These seem
to indicate that at that date the people of Eskdale were not
so much a pastoral as a warlike race, who did not trouble
to build for themselves even such rude hut-circles as have
been found at Fewstone, but dwelt in or near the forests
in times of peace, and in war betook themselves to the
hill-forts.

THE CELTIC.

The discoveries in the oldest, or long, barrows,
iooo B.C. point only to a long-skulled race. But in the

round or conical barrows and mounds there are
indications that the long - skulled people were slowly
changed, probably bv colonization and intermarriage, first
into an oval, and later into a round-skulled race. No
round skull has ever been found in a long barrow, but
long skulls have, in small numbers, been found in the
round barrows.

These facts, together with the discoveries of flint and
other implements, suggest a migration of a new race
into these Islands during the later Stone Age, and this
migration Mr. Read, of the British Museum, places cir.
iooo B.C., a date which seems to be virtually accepted by
all other authorities. This race was Celtic, a round headed
curly haired, dark complexioned people, for the most part,
though some branches of the race were light haired, tend-
ing to red.

THE ETHNOLOGY OF ESKDALE. 151

It was this race that built the cairns and made the cists,
whose stone implements have been found in small num-
bers at Westwater and Camp Knowes. It contributed
very markedly too, both to the complexion and physical
features of the present Scottish people. It left as a legacy
many a superstition, many a legend, many a romance.
These have entered into the religious notions of Scot-
land and, for many generations, have also permeated its
literature.

THE BRYTHONIC OR CYMRIC.

Whether there was one Celtic migration or
300 B.C. two is another point upon which ethnologists

differ. Mr. Read, who is one of our greatest
authorities, thinks there were two, and the people of the
second migration he calls the Brythons. Both Brython
and Celt were of Aryan stock, and their coming to Britain
marked one of the early stages of that great movement
which can still be noted, tending ever towards the west.

It was probably to this branch of the Celtic race that
the Britons oi Strathclyde belonged. It was disting-
uished by the name of Cymri, and though of the same
original stock as the older Celtic people it gradually di-
verged into a distinct family, whose descendants are now
found in Wales and Cornwall.

The language spoken by this people, differing only
Blightly from the Gaelic, is still traceable in Eskdale.
It was they who named the rivers — Esk, and Ewes, and
gave names to some of otir higher hills and to many
ot our glens, — a strong and virile race, able to perpetu-
ate its qualities down through many centuries, and to
impress itself profoundly upon the history oi the world.

152 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

THE ROMAN.

Next in order was the occupation by the Ro-
130 a.d. mans. But they left singularly little mark on

Eskdale, either racial or linguistic. North
of Hadrian's Wall their occupation was wholly military.
It was intermittent and separate from the more intimate
life of the people. Thus the Roman influence, in its effect
on the language, was not appreciable, but it helped to em-
phasize the gradual separation of the Strathclyde Celts
from the other branches of the sept. On the departure of
the Romans about 410 a.d., the Celtic tribes were left in a
chaotic condition, and many reverted to their former
pagan customs. Inter-marriage does not seem to have
taken place extensively, and the ethnic influence of the
Romans soon died out.

THE ANGLIC, OR SAXON.

The Saxon invasion has been perhaps the
670 a.d. most influential factor in the evolution of

the people of Eskdale. Not only did the
coming of the Saxon affect the appearance of the race,
but it completely altered the structure of the language.
The ancient Gaelic or Cymric language of the people
of Strathclyde had begun to lose its hold when Malcolm
succeeded to the throne of Cumbria in 1056. Then
the Scots element soon became the dominating factor
in the speech and life of the people. But the Saxon
invasion slowly but surely brought about the complete
Saxonization of the whole of Eskdale and the low-
lands generally, and the Celtic tongue once general in
Strathclyde gave way to the language of the colonists.
With the coming of the Saxons we may conveniently

THE ETHNOLOGY OE ESKDALE. 153

group the earlier invasions by the Frisians and the
contemporary invasion by the Angles. All these were
Teutonic in race and speech. It is doubtful whether this
Saxon influence was soonest and most felt in the feat-
ures o\ the people or in their language. The Saxons
brought to Eskdale the fair complexion and the blue
eyes. The conjunction o( these features with the darker
hues o( the Celt produced a type that is still characteristic
o\ the low lands. The language was also profoundly af-
fected, not in Eskdale or the lowlands alone, but through-
out the east of Scotland and the north of England. This
effect has lived longest in the lowlands, and many of the
words, phrases, and idioms which are accounted as of
the Scots tongue, were contributed by the Angles and
the Saxons over 1000 years ago.

The union o( Saxon and Celt, or later of Celt and
Norseman, is interestingly shown in the occasional con-
junction of terms in the place-names of Eskdale, — this
word itself indeed is a conjunction of the British Isca and
the Norse dale. The welding of place-names is an indi-
cation of the gradual decay o( racial feeling which would
at fust be acute between the old and the new settlers.

Through the marriage of Malcolm with Margaret, his
Saxon Queen, the disintegrating forces at work on the
Celtic language were reinforced, so that by the accession
oi Alexander III., in 1249, the language of the Celts as a
spoken tongue had entirely disappeared from Eskdale
and a Teutonic speech had taken its place.

154 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

THE NORSE.

In the ninth century the Danes and Norwe-
800 a. d. gians poured down upon the coasts of Scot-
land, and after much warfare and struggle
they established themselves in the country. Eskdale
would very soon experience their onslaughts. From
their base on the Sol way they would speedily spread
themselves over both Annandaleand Eskdale, — an event
which can be easily traced to-day in the many place-
names in Dumfriesshire of Norse origin. It was mainly
by way of the valleys of Esk and Liddel that they spread
themselves over the Scottish Borders. 4k Extremely few
places with Scandinavian names are to be found in the
Scottish lowlands and even these are confined almost
without exception to the counties nearest the Border.
Dumfriesshire lying directly north of Cumberland and the
Solway forms the central point of such places."" Their
coming introduced another factor into the progression and
development o( the people of Eskdale. A tall, fair com-
plexioned, sandy -haired race, pagan in religion but
brave and strong in physical powers, clear sighted and
determined, the Norse people contributed many of the
qualities which are characteristic of the present popula-
tion of Eskdale, and also some which were perhaps
more observable in the grim old days of the Border
raiders. Between these raids and the piratical voy-
ages of the Norsemen there is a strong affinity. Per-
haps quite as much as the Saxons the Norsemen influ-
enced and altered the language. They introduced the word
"holm," for instance, and the word " Langholm" itself is
Norse in form. Not a few of the families who afterwards

* Worsaae : Danes and Norwegians in England, Scotland, and Ireland
p. 217.

THE ETHNOLOGY OF ESKDALE. .55

became conspicuous in Eskdale and the Borders, came
originally with the Norsemen. Many of our family names
are of Xorse origin those ending in son, the Andersons,
Hotsons, and others, being either Norse or adopted from
Xorse custom. Mr. Worsaae in his travels noted that the
people of the north o\ England and south of Scotland were
o\ the same type with which he was familiar in Scandin-
avia. Had he met them there, he says, they would not
have appeared to him to be strangers. It has to be ad-
mitted that much of the completeness with which they
dominated the resident tribes was due to the unsparing
and pagan severity of their warfare.

Qualities are proverbially difficult to trace, but heredity
operates even though its methods are capricious. The
inheritances from the Saxon and the Norseman may be
hard to define separately, but it will not be called in
question that their qualities and characteristics have
made a profound impression throughout Scotland and
nowhere more than in Eskdale. "The peculiar charac-
teristics of the lowlands," says Dr. Wilson,* "are chiefly
derived from the mingled Norse and Saxon blood of a
Teutonic ancestry." What has been said of the low-
lands generally can be said with greater certainty of
Kskdale.

THE NORMAN.

The last great migration of an alien people
1 150 a.d. into Eskdale was that which took place when

the Norman barons, who with their retainers
had "come over with the Conqueror" in 1066, came into
Scotland during the reign of David, whose residence at

Prehistoric Annals, Vol. I. p. 12.

156 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

the English court had familiarized him with the Norman
manners, customs, and speech. On his accession to the
throne he made grants of land on a feudal tenure to
many of his Norman friends, settling them on the lands
which had once been held by the old Celtic tribes or
clans. Nowhere was this influx greater or its results more
pronounced than in Eskdale and Ewesdale. The old
lands, many of which had been communal or tribal, were
divided amongst the Norman barons. These brought
with them into Eskdale great crowds of serving men and
women of Saxon descent, whose intermarriage with the
natives helped still further to obliterate the characteristics
of the ancient peoples. In this case, therefore, the settle-
ment exerted a double effect in the country by bringing
both a Norman and yet another Saxon element into Esk-
dale life. This Saxon intermixture was intensified by a
further migration, which occurred when Malcolm made his
notorious raid into Northumberland and Durham in 1070.
He then burned and pillaged the country, either putting its
people to the sword or driving them into Scotland as his
serfs, so that, says Simeon of Durham, there was "scarce
a Scottish home but had its Anglic slave."

The effect of all these migrations is evident in modern
customs and speech, and perhaps more noticeable still in
the system of land tenure. The feudal system was of Nor-
man planting, but so complete was David's policy that the
new tenure quickly settled throughout the lowlands into
the established order, and its customs and forms are even
now in constant use. The Normans exerted also a con-
siderable influence upon the written and spoken language
of the people, and not a few of the words and phrases,
which are regarded as Scots, were brought into the lang-
uage at the feudal settlement. Some of the customs intro-

THE ETHNOLOGY OF BSKDALE. 157

duced by the Normans still prevail in village life. The
ringing of the i>el 1 in Langholm every evening in winter
at eight o'clock and in summer at seven, is a survival
of the old Norman "curfew" bell.* No trace of their
architecture is left to us, except stray portions, such
as the old sedilia in Canonby kirk-yard, reference to
which will be made later. There is also the Hasp found
some years ago at Wauchope Castle, a rare and beauti-
ful specimen of French enamel work of the School of
Limoges of the thirteenth century- -no doubt brought
over by the De Lindesays. A description of this is given
in a later chapter. The scarcity of these relics is not to
be marvelled at when we remember the troublous con-
dition of the Borders during the succeeding centuries.

These, then, are the constituent elements which, dur-
ing many centuries, have gone to the moulding of the
people of Eskdale. Each migration has left an impress,
which can be traced in the features of the people, in their
mental characteristics, in their customs and beliefs, in
their laws and in their language. Eskdale itself has re-
mained the same throughout all these ages. The rivers
run a little deeper in their channels. These channels
have changed. The gullies on the hillsides have
been eaten deeper by the frosts and storms of many
centuries. Forests have given place to fields. The
climate has been modified by these physical changes,
and the wild life of Eskdale has been completely altered.
Yet in its main features Eskdale is to-day what it was to

This custom is popularly ascribed to the Normans. Probably they
introduced it into Britain, but it had obtained throughout the north of
Eprope independent altogether of Norman influence. The object, of
1 uurse, was to prevent conflagrations, when so many of the building's
were ol wood. Eight o'clock was the regular hour for the ring-hie: of
.lie bell. ' ' '

158 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

the primitive race who erected the Girdle Stanes or built
the great cairns. Through all these ages, however, the
people have been changing. Their physical attributes,
their colour, their stature, their customs and speech have
been slowly modified, and we who now people the valley
of the Esk are but "the lon£ result of time," — the amalgam
composed of all these various elements, — inheriting their
failings but, let us hope, retaining also many of the
qualities and virtues which made them men.

CHAPTER XI.

THE PLACE-NAMES OF ESKDALE.

" I I E various races, referred to in the preceding
chapter, left behind them many evidences of their
residence in Eskdale. It is especially by the evidences in
the language or dialect o( a district that their successive
occupation can be traced. Words which are now regarded
by literary purists as provincial or vulgar, are present in
the lowland Scots tongue by an ancient lineage, and have
been used in centuries past, not only as the means of ex-
pressing the thought and emotion of the people, but also
as the language of culture and of learning. The speech
in which Burns and other lowland poets wrote was not
the patois of an ignorant peasantry, — it was a language
capable of conveying the thoughts and hopes and loves
and sorrows of an intelligent and virile race. Alas !
that tongue is fast becoming obsolete, even in Eskdale.
Our grandfathers used words of whose import we are
ignorant, at the pronunciation of which we smile with
the superior air of the Schools.

The speech of Eskdale, as of the entire lowlands, is a
mixed language containing words and idioms from the
Celtic, the Saxon, the Norse, and the Norman, with
the additions of recent centuries. In the spoken lang-
uage of the district these elements may be identified with
comparative ease, but the present chapter is intended to
deal with them principally as revealed in the place-names
Of Kskdale.

Tin' words Celtic and Xorsc are used throughout this chapter as
sufficiently accurate to indicate all the different branches of these lang-

i6o LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The fact has been already noted that no word, even in
local place-names, can now he identified as coming from
the Iberian race, which is supposed to have preceded the
Celtic in the occupation of our Islands. But with the
Celtic era there seems to have begun that naming of
places and natural features which continued down to the
days of the Normans, and then proceeded by way of cor-
ruption or modification of the original —a process which
is still going on. It is this modification which makes all
efforts definitely to fix the origin of the place-names
difficult and uncertain. Because a place to-day, for
example, is known by a Celtic, Saxon, or Norse appel-
lation, it does not of necessity follow that it actually re-
ceived its name from the Celts, or the Saxons, or the
Norsemen, or that it even existed, say, iooo years ago. The
name may belong to one of these languages, but it may
possibly have been given to a particular place long after
the people speaking that tongue had disappeared from
Eskdale, or, as will be seen, a name attaching to a place
now may be compounded of two or even three different
root-words. But whilst this is admitted, it may be as-
sumed that the terms used to denote certain physical
features, such as rivers or mountains or homesteads, were
brought into the district by the race speaking the lang-
uage to which the nomenclature belongs. And not un-
naturally it follows that as places are fixed and not liable
to changing influences, thev will generally retain those
early names with possibly more or less modification.
Arguing back, then, we shall not be seriously wrong if we
take it that most of the names of natural objects, and of
the main physical features of Eskdale, were really be-
stowed by the people who spoke these languages, and
likewise that those place-names which have remained vir-

THE PLACE-NAMES OF ESKDALE. r6i

tuallv the same for several centuries, date approximately
to the periods indicated.

The oldest place-names in Eskdale belong naturally to
fixed and permanent objects, such as the rivers, hills and
glens, and the various aspects which they present.
Consequently we find a large number of the names
are Celtic. Professor Veitch* contends that it is to the
Cymric branch oi' the language that most of the place-
names oi' Celtic derivation on the Borders belong-. He
quotes Zeuss, the Celtic philologist, + to show that in
the older Cymric dialect preference was given to the
sharp consonants, e.g., /> to b, as in pen (a head, as
applied to a hill) in the lowlands, instead of ben, as
almost invariably used in the highlands. But for the
purposes o( the present chapter the term Celtic is applied
generally, without committing the writers to an opinion
whether a certain place-name is, or is not, of the Cymric
branch of the language, as distinguished from the
Gaelic.

From this Celtic language, then, there remain in Esk-
dale only a few place-names. Some have become united
to Saxon or Xorse suffixes, as in Cor s holm, Lyneholm, Esk-
dale, \\\utchope. Others have undergone a change of
form as well as conjunction with other root-words. An
instance is Wud-Qditricfc*. now pronounced and spelt Wat-
Carrick. In such cases the more modern denomination
has probably displaced an original Celtic suffix. But in
DOt a few cases the entire Celtic name remains. Some
o{ these are here indicated : —

History and Poetry of the Scottish Border, chap I.
t Idem, chap, i, p. 55.
In Note lv. to The Lay of the Last Minstrel, Sir Walter Scott spells
it WOODKERRICK.

162 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Esk. ) Celtic root utsge, meaning water or a current.
Ewes. ) From this root came the early British Isca.

Variants of the words are Ouse, Usk, Exe, Axe, Ux,

and others.
Wauchope. Probably from the Celtic wagh, a den, (or

perhaps wan, indicating the source of a stream), and

the Norse hope, a valley. One of the old forms of

spelling quoted by Armstrong is Walghope.
Allangill. Is probably compounded of the Celtic al-

7ven or all, white, and the Norse gil^ a ravine.
Garwald. From the Celtic garw, rough, and alt, a

brook, or possibly the word is a combination of the

Celtic garw and the Teutonic wald, a wood.
In the case of Garwald Water the wald probably re-
fers to the ravine, but in St. Thorwald's it is more
likelv that the meaning is that of a wood, as in the Eng-
lish place-name 7vold. The LoNGWOOD referred to in the
verses prefacing the Proclamation of the Fair at the
Langholm Common Riding, stretched along the side of
Whita, where the remains of it may still be seen in the
old oaks near the Round House.

From the same Celtic root garw, the river-names Yar-
row and Garry are also derived.

In Lyneholm we have linn, a pool, and Norse holm.
Dumlinns. In Wauchope Water, possibly from Celtic

dun, a fortress or hill, and linn, so: "the pool at

the hill."
Lyne. A tributary of the Esk ; also from linn.

Curiously enough the Celtic roots do not appear so
prominently in the names of the Eskdale hills. Pen,
meaning a head, or a hill, appears in Timpen,* PfiNTON,

* What has of late years been called the Timpen is designated Gala-
side Hill in Bleau's map of 1662.

THE PLACE-NAMES OV ESKDALE. 163

and in Penangus, the ancient nameof Mosspaul, (mean-
ing a hill named after Angus, who, perhaps, was the King
of this name occupying the Pietisli throne about 730),
and in the Pen OF EsKDALEMUIR, often ealled ElTRICK

Pen. The word is the equivalent of the Gaelic be//, as
applied to mountains.

7 or, Celtic for a towering rock, may be the root of Ter-
rona, spelt by Bleau Torronna. Probably it also enters
into Tarras, though this may be a corruption of the Latin
turrus, a tower. In either case the reference implied
would probably be to Tinnis Hill rather than Whita.

Craig, or carraig is a Celtic root indicating a rock.
We have it in The CRAIG, and in the Celtic-Norse com-
pound Craigcleuch, and in Wud-Carrick — that is
wudu, Anglo-Saxon a wood, and Celtic carraig, a rock,
the name being a literal description of the place.

Gh'ti is a Celtic root which has come down to us
with its original meaning. Its form in the Gaelic is
glean n, a valley. In Kskdale it is of frequent occur-
rence : —

Glendearg. Glen, and dearg, red, i.e., the red glen.
Dowglen. Dubh, black, and glen : the black glen.
Glencorf. Glen, and garw, rough: the rough glen.
GLENVOREN. Glen, and mhoran, plentv, or mhor, big:

the glen of plentv, or the big glen.
Glenfirra. Glen, and firean, an eagle: the eagles' glen.
Glendiven. Glen, and probably dubh, black.
FlNGLAND. Originally Finglen :* finn, white, and glen :

the white glen.
Glentenmont. The higher reach of the Wauchope.

There is also the Celtic cnoc, meaning a hill. It ap-
pears in Kskdale in The Knock and in the pleonasm

Bleau's map, 1662,

1 64 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Knock hill, and in Gilnockie, where it is joined to the
Norse £7*/, a ravine. The Knock itself is on the farm
of Tanlawhill. In Westerkirk parish there are Mid-
Knock and Nether-Knock.

In Neasehill we have a pleonasm of Celtic neas, a hill,
and the Saxon hill.

In Auchen-rivock, we have a distinctively Gaelic
name. It comes from auchen, or achadh, a field, a very
common prefix in Scotland; rivock is probably a corrup-
tion of the Gaelic riabach, meaning grey : thus the grey
field.

In Galaside we get the Celtic gal, an open plain, the
reference being no doubt to the Castleholm, or possibly
from gala, clear water, referring to the Esk.

Corsholm is the union of the Celtic cors, a marsh,
and the Anglo-Saxon or Norse holm. The word really
means "the boggy island."

Dun, a fort, is Celtic. It appears in Dunaby, in Dum-
fedling and in Dumlinns. If the residence of the
Celt was on low-lying ground instead of on a hill, it
was called logan instead of dun. This may be the
origin of the name of Logan Water, given to one of
the sources of the Wauchope.

In Bonese, or Boonies as it was spelt 200 years ago,
and still is so spelt in the Estate papers (and in Bon-
shaw) the bon is probably from ban, meaning fair or
beautiful.

The Celtic caer or car also occurs. As already men-
tioned, it means a stronghold or fort, and in this signi-
fication left its name in the farm of Kerr, between
Wauchopedale and Canonby, and also in the patron-
ymic Ker or Kerr, a well-known Border name, which has
probably descended from the days of the Strathclyde

THE PLACE-NAMES OF ESKDALE. 165

Britons, though certain writers have endeavoured to
trace it to a Norman origin. It is also found in Car-
wood-rig in Ewesdale, the original name of the corrupt-
ed Carrotrig, or as on Bleau's map, Kerriot-rig.

In the place-name of CoOMS we have the Celtic cwm,
meaning a hollow or shelter between hills. This, we
believe, is the only instance of its survival in the Esk-
dale district.

In RASHIEL the root may be the Celtic rhos, a moor,
or perhaps rasach, in either of its meanings, the ridge
of a hill, or a place covered with shrubwood.

In Bailey Hill we have the Celtic baile, a village.
The same word is very common in Ireland as bally. In
some charters granted after the coming of the Norman
barons it is spelt La Baly.

The tan in Tanlawiiill is probably the Celtic ton,
the back of a hill or knoll,, the law and hill being one of
those duplications already referred to as so frequently
found in districts in which there has been a succession
of different races. Thus the same root idea is expressed
in each of the three syllables.

The race succeeding the Celtic in Eskdale was the
Saxon, who, as before mentioned, effected a complete
change in the language, substituting the Anglo-Saxon
for the old British tongue. They, too, have left their
traces in the place-names in Eskdale. Not infrequently a
Saxon name is conjoined to a Celtic root. Nearly all
the distinctive Saxon names for natural objects and
features are found in Eskdale. These, so far as they
were given to permanent objects, such as hills and
streams and burns, very probably date back to the
Saxon invasion, but naturally the names given to dwell-

1 66 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

ing places, either singly or in groups, though Saxon or
Norse in form, may be of recent date. Many of the
original place-names have, o( course, been modified or
corrupted by that inevitable transmutation which occurs
in a language spoken in various dialects, but many of
the original words still remain.

One of the most frequent affixes in Fskdale is ton or
toun. This is the Anglo-Saxon tun, meaning an enclo-
sure, and in this sense it has been applied, not only to
towns and villages in the lowlands, but even to separate
farms. It is still the custom in Eskdale and the low-
lands generally to speak of a farm as a farm-toun.

The ton is seen in :
Stapelgortoun. This name is composed of three
Anglo-Saxon roots : Stapel refers to an authorised
market town, and is found in Whitstable, Barn-
staple, Dunstable, and others. Trades are now de-
scribed as "staple," but in the days of the Anglo-
Saxons it was the place that was so styled. Gor'is a
rnuddy or marshy place, and toun is town. So that
the name may be construed as " the market town on
the marsh." What trade Stapelgortoun was staple
for can only be conjectured — probably it was wool.
In this connection we have the word " woolstapler. "
Arkleton. From Scandinavian ark, a temple, and ton,
or from the Celtic ar, a hill, kit, a church or cell (e.g.
Unthank), and ton.
Arkin is from the same root, with (possibly) the Celtic
suffix kin, which is also seen in Boykin or Byken.
This suffix seems to be used as a variant of pen.
Fiddleton. Possibly from Celtic fidd, a wood, or Jic/i,

a castle, and ton.
Kirkton, i.e. kirk and ton, the village grouped round
a kirk.

THE PLACE-NAMES OF ESKDALE. 167

Milntown or Milton. From Anglo-Saxon tniln, a
mill, and ton, the village near the mill; or in some
cases the middle low n. The prefix is frequently met
with in Canonby : Sarkmilntown, Milnsteads,
Harelawmiln, &c.
Davington. Evidently from the name David, i.e. David
I., and ton.
We have already mentioned that in Eskdale there are
not a few place-names made up partly oi Celtic and
partly of Anglo-Saxon or Norse roots. Some have been
given and others are :

Abertown or EvERTOWN. The Celtic aber, (supposed
by some authorities to be originally a Phoenician
word) indicates the mouth of a river, but it seems
doubtful whether in this case it is not a corrupted
form of some other prefix. The place not so long
ago was called OVERTOWN, and half a mile from it
there is still a NETHERTOWN, so possibly there would
also be a Middle town, a group corresponding to
OVERBY, NETHERBY, and MlDDLEBY.
Brocketlinns. From Anglo-Saxon brocc, a badger,

and Celtic linn, a. pool. Cp. Brockwoodlees.
Bogle-gill. From the Celtic bwg, a spirit, and the

Norse gil, a ravine.
Carlesgill. The car may be from the Celtic caer, a
fort, or from carle, a man of low social class or a
husbandman, but more probably from Carl, the name
of a Scandinavian hero, and gil, a ravine.
The Celtic root kil, the synonym of the Welsh llan,
meaning a cell, the residence o( a hermit or a saintly
personage, is very seldom found in Eskdale. One in-
stance, linked to an Anglo-Saxon suffix, is Kilxclkuch,
d\^\ of course it is also in KlLNGREEN, in which instance

1 68 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

the kil referred to was possibly the old kirk of Stapelgor-
toun, although on Bleau's map of 1662 there is noted
a plaee called KlLHlLL near to Stapelgortoun kirk.

In KlLNCLEUCH the eell might he that of Thor the
Long, referred to on page 51. The n added to kil is
probably recent.

The word "water" as applied to a stream is a well-known
term throughout the south of Scotland. In Eskdale we
have Westwater, Stennieswater, Garwaldwater,
Wauchopewater, Tarras Water, and others. Water
in the Anglo-Saxon is wceter, — a pronunciation still used
in Teviotdale.*

Stennieswater is "the stony stream," from Anglo-
Saxon stan, a stone. The same word comes into
Staneholm Scar, often wrongly spelt Steenom,
where one time there was a farm.

Burn, so common in Eskdale, is Anglo-Saxon. Cleuch
is from the Anglo-Saxon claugh, a cleft in the rock. It
occurs in Craigcleuch, Cleuchfoot, Hogillcleuch,
and others.

Haugh is from the Norse hagi, pasture ground, and
occurs in Craighaugh, Whithaugh and a .few other
place-names.

The Anglo-Saxon hall, a safe plaee, or a stone house,
is found in Ha' Crofts, — the "11" being dropped in con-
formity with the Scottish custom, Callister Ha', and
Westerhall, the pronunciation of which was formerly
Westerha', — a name dating only from the seventeenth
century. The name given in Bleau's map of 1662 to Wes-
terhall is Darderrenn, but in the oldest charters it is

* Professor Veitch in his History and Poetry of the Scottish Bonier,
p. 23, says the same pronunciation occurs in Eskdale, but in this surely
he is wrong.

THE PLACE-NAMES OF ESKDALE. 169

1 ) \i mm \x or 1 )aldurian e*. The dor is probably Anglo-
Saxon deors a deer. The */<//. which also occurs in Dal-
r.i 1 ii, an old place on the opposite hank of the Esk below
Lyneholm, may be the Norse, but more likely still the
Celtic, for dale. Croft is a piece oi land that has been
cropped.

Cote or cot -is Anglo-Saxon tor a cottage, generally a
mud hut, the only instance in Kskdale being the farm of
Con:, so often referred to in previous chapters.

Feld, a held, occurs in CALFIELD and GEORGEFIELD.
In Hagg-ON-Esk we have the Anglo-Saxon hagg, a
small estate.

WHIT A is from the Anglo-Saxon Jiwit, white.

Warbla — pronounced Wurbla and so spelt on Bleau's
map, —is probably a modified form of Wardlaw,* a
name given to hills on which the watchers were posted
in times o( danger. On the first Ordnance Map of 1859
the spelling was Warb Law. Law is Anglo-Saxon lilaw,
a small hill. Ward is used in the same sense as in Warden
of the Marches. We also get the Anglo-Saxon watch in
the Watch Knowe. We thus have precisely the same
idea in different forms in Warbla and Watch Knowe,
the two hills oi observation for the valley.

In Moodlaw, the law also refers to a hill. Mood is
probably a corruption of mid, or middle, and the word
is locally pronounced midlaw. The term Moodlaw-
POINT referring to a district in the new town o( Lang-
holm, is said by old inhabitants to have been given
through the farmer o( Moodlaw pasturing his sheep at
this particular point o( the old Meikleholm farm.

Breckonwray, which is now spelt Brackexwrae,
is a union o( the Anglo-Saxon braccan, the plural of

Cp. Warden Law, a well known hill in the county of Durham,

i;o LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

bracce, a tern, and the Norse wran or ra, a corner. The
latter may also be the root of the WRAE in Ewes, though
possibly this may be from the Danish rath, a fort.

The name sham applied to a wood is fairly frequent in
Kskdale, e.g., Earshaw, Shaw Rig, The Shaws, &c.
It is from the Anglo-Saxon scaga, a little wood.

In that patch of hazel wood on the east side of Castle
Hill, known as The Scroggs, the happy hunting
ground for hazel nuts, beloved of every Langholm boy,
we have the Anglo-Saxon scrob, meaning brushwood.

Dorniegill is doubtless from Anglo-Saxon deor, a
deer or a wild animal, and the Norse gil. Nothing now
remains of the steading of Dorniegill. It stood on the
right bank of Megget Water, about two miles from its
junction with the Esk.

A noticeable omission from the place-names of Saxon
origin in Eskdale is that of the suffix wick, as in Hawick,
and other places in Tweeddale and Teviotdale. To
the best of our knowledge the termination is entirely
absent, the ending ton always being preferred.

The ending ham, Anglo-Saxon for a home or dwelling-
place, is seldom found in Eskdale, perhaps the only in-
stance being the farm of Middlehams, sometimes wrong-
ly called Middle holms.

Reference has been made to the possibility of the place-
name Riddings being derived from Rhydderch Hael.
Or it may be from the Celtic rhyd, a ford. The syllable
ing is usually an indication of a hamlet or village, and
is Anglo-Saxon, therefore it may be "the dwelling at
the ford."

The Anglo-Saxon ley, a pasture land, is found in Esk-
dale in Woodhouselee, Woodslees, Eweslees, and
Brockwoodlees.

THE PLACE-NAMES OF ESKDALE. .71

The Norse appellations in Eskdale are equally com-
mon with the Saxon, to which they are frequently con-
joined. The best known is of course holm, which is SO pre-
dominant 1 suffix in the place-names of the Eskdale valley.

The word is also Saxon. ''Originally it meant an island
in a ri\er or bay, hence a meadow near the sea or a river.
It is o( frequent occurrence in proper names in Iceland.
The application o( holm to spots in the river valleys of
the low lands of Scotland, seems to point to a time when
the rivers were streams passing through inland lakes
with green islets appearing in the midst of them.'" The
instances in which the word is used in Kskdale are so
numerous as to render it scarcely necessary to make men-
tion of them.f The name of Langholm is sometimes
attributed to Scandinavian origin,* but both parts of the
name are also Saxon words, and the same may be said of
M KiKLKHOLM, which is doubtless from the Saxon micel,
meaning much. The suffix by or bye, which in Esk-
dale has so often been corrupted into bie, is a Norse
term meaning a habitation or dwelling place. It appears

in NETHERBY, CaNONBV, MUMBY, BOAIBY, OVERHY,

SORBY. Canon Isaac Taylor says^ that the only Scan-
dinavian settlement in the south of Scotland was in
Dumfriesshire, and he adds that there are more than a
dozen names with the suffix by. Eskdale must, in this
case, account for about half of them.

The derivation of Canonby is traced by some to the
old ecclesiastical foundation, the Priory at Hallgreen,

Professor Veitch's History and Poetry of the Scottish Border, p. 23.
t The following may be quoted : — Langholm, Broomholm, Meikle-
kolm, Castleholm, Arkinholm, Eldingholm, Bowholm, Glencartholm,
NiUyholm, Knottyholm, Potholm, Staneholm, Corsholm, Lyneholm,
lin/.H'lioim, Flaskholm, The Holm, Murtholm, Stubholm, Bigholms,
Billholm, Holmhead.

£ See Dr. Adams' Elements of the English Eanguage, p. 6.
J; Words and Places , p. 136.

i;2 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

and in this connection it would mean the residence of
the canons. Others connect it with the Latin Coenobium
from the Greek Kotvos /?tos, common life, indicating the
communal life of the monastery. Near Maryport, in
Cumberland, there is a parish called Cross-Canonby.

Another Norse word almost identical with this suffix
is byre, a dwelling. It comes into Byreburn, Dinlybyre,
and Yetbyre. The last is the old name of Castle O'er,
or Castle Owyrn. The late Mr. Richard Bell* gives the
meaning as "the chief's stronghold," but a more accurate
rendering would probably be "the house by the gate."

The Scandinavian term rig ox ryg, a hill, is often found
along the watershed of the Esk, e.g., Shaw Rig, Wester-
ker Rig, Calfield Rig, The Rig, Hopsrig, Over
Rig, Parson's Rig, Blackrig.

Felly from the Norse fjall, is less frequently met with
among the hills of Eskdale, but it appears in Coomsfell
in Tarras, Ewenshope Fell at the head of Ewes, and a
few others.

The Norse beck, a burn, is seldom found, perhaps the
only instances being The Becks in Wauchopedale and
Archerbeck in Canonby.

The suffix gil is of common occurrence : Boglegill,
Effgill, Carlesgill, Kerniegill, Gabergill, and
others. In all of these it indicates a ravine.

Grains, as in The Grains, an old farm which once
stood behind Wauchope Schoolhouse, and in Chapel
Grains, further up the same valley, and the Grains
Well, also in Wauchopedale, and Clerkhill Grains,
in Eskdalemuir, is from the Norse greni, meaning a
branch, as applied to a valley where it divides into other
smaller glens, or to the fork of a stream. These seem to

* My Si range Pets, p. 294.

THK PLACE-NAM KS OF ESKDALE.

/>•>

be the only instances o( the word occurring in the Esk-

dale district.

Shields, as in Broomholmshields,Arkletonshields,
WHITSHIELDS and others, is from the Norse skali, a shep-
herd's hut.

Hope, a small valley between hills, may he either Celtic
or Norse. Probably in Eskdale it was the Scandinavians
who brought it into use. It appears in Wauchope, Tud-
iiopk, HoPSRIG, MARTINHOPE, WOLFHOPE, and many
others.

Hass, a hill pass, is seldom found, but we get it in
SORBY Mass, the wild hill-road leading from Ewesdale
into Eskdale, in Wrae Hass close to it, and in Guile
Mass at the head of Carrotrig Burn. The word hass, as
applied to the throat, once current in Eskdale, is now
obsolete.

The word thwaite, a clearing, is not so common as in
Cumberland, indeed it is hardly found at all in Eskdale.
It is present in Harperwhat and Thorniewhat.

In Copelawgair the first syllable may be the Anglo-
Saxon cop, a hill or mound, as in Cops haw. If so, then
there is a duplication in adding law. Or the root may
be the Danish copen, as in Copenhagen, i.e. , a place for
traders. Gair is also found in Rawgair, the name of
the hillside between Warbla and Earshaw.

In Eldingholm, the name given to the holm on which
the present Established Kirk of Langholm stands, we
have the old north-country word elding, meaning fuel,
doubtless derived from the Norse eld, fire. In this case
the name suggests that once the holm was thickly covered
with brushwood, instead of the stately oaks and beeches
of recent years.

The word dale, which is found so abundantly in the

174 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

lowlands, and iii Cumberland and Yorkshire, is a Norse
appellation. It is said' that in England there are no
lower than one hundred and fifty-two valleys known as
dales. This suggests the wide extent of the Norse settle-
ments. Both in the south of Scotland and north of
England the Norse influence in place-names and in the
general dialect of the people has been most marked.

I n the places named after wild animals we get a glimpse
into that far-past age when Eskdale was the habitat of
species now completely extinct in the district. These
place-names are suggestive of their having been the
special resorts of these animals, e.g., Brocketlinns and
Brockwoodlhes would be the resorts of the badger,
Todshawhill of the fox, Wolfhope and Wolfcleuch
of the wolf, Catgill of the wild cat, Dorniegill of the
deer, and so on.

Some discussion has taken place anent the derivation
of Cassock in Eskdalemuir. The local pronunciation
is Cassa, and this has suggested the theory that it might
indicate the locality of an old Roman "causeway," which
in Eskdale is also pronounced cassa, and not causey as in
some parts of Scotland. It appears much more prob-
able, however, that the name is derived from the Latin
casa, a cottage. Cp. Candida Casa in Galloway.

The place-name Woodhouse, occurring so frequent-
ly throughout the Borders, either in this form or in con-
junction with a suffix, relates to that period in local history
when the chief house in the hamlet was built of wood
and not of mud, as those of the vassals were. It is,
therefore, almost synonymous with Tower.

For lists of words derived from the Celtic and Norse,
now or recently in regular use in the speech of Eskdale,
see Appendix I.

Part III.
FEUDAL AND MEDIEVAL.

PARS

L I D A

~ B A I L

BLEAU'S MAP OF 1662.

FEUDAL AND MEDIEVAL.
CHAPTER Xli.

THE NORMAN BARONS.

DAVID the First came to the throne of Scotland in
i 1 24 on the death of Alexander, his brother.
The new king, in whom there met the Celtic and Saxon
lines o\ kings, had already ruled, as Karl, over Cumbria,
in which territory, it will be remembered, Eskdale was
situated. With his accession another epoch in the his-
tory o( Scotland dawned. David had spent some of his
earlier years at the English court, where, as the Karl of
Northampton, he had an acknowledged position. Pur-
ine this impressionable period o( his life he had been
brought into close touch with the Norman Barons, who had
settled in Kngland after the Conquest. By these he was
Considerably influenced, and he seems to have conceived
an admiration for many of their customs, their lang-
uage, and especially for that theory of the social basis of
society on which they erected their feudal system. Ac-
cordingly, on his accession to the Crown of Scotland,
David set about the entire reorganization of its system
of land tenure. To carry out this purpose the more
quickly and efficiently he introduced a large number of
his Norman acquaintances, to whom he granted the
superiority of the lands on a strictly feudal tenure, —
that o[ vassalage and obedience to himself as the chief
feudal lord.

During the Celtic and Saxon periods, the tenure of land

m Scotland had been, more or less, on a feudal basis. The
N

17S LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

feudal idea, indeed, lay at the root of the tribal system,
and also entered into the social and economic life of the
clans. But their feudal tenure was indigenous, and had
a communal purpose, whereas that now introduced by
David was a foreign importation, and it was personal and
regal. Consequently it entirely shifted the fulcrum of
government. At its base lay the theory that "every man
should find a lord,"and on this axiom David nowproceeded
to set up a system which profoundly altered both the polit-
ical and social history of the country, and indeed still
dominates all our theories of land tenure. We believe
we are right in saying that, even in this democratic age,
the idea which underlies and governs the transference
of land is that even the holder of the fee-simple him-
self can enjoy only an interest therein, and can never
be legally regarded as the absolute owner. The convey-
ance always assumes a superior, or a" lord," as David
termed him. Where the superior cannot be now identi-
fied his existence is nevertheless implied. David had
imbibed this feudal theory from his Norman associates,
but in essence it was only a modification of the system of
fiefage which had long prevailed in the German states.
The introduction of the Norman nobles into the low-
lands produced an effect out of all proportion to their
numbers. At the most, only a few thousands of them
settled in the country. Their disproportionate in-
fluence arose through the power which, by virtue of
the feudal laws, they were enabled to wield over their
vassals and bondmen. As the superior under the feudal
system of tenure, the Baron was a person of very great
authority. It was largely by virtue of his power over
these Barons and their Anglic vassals that, during his
Earldom, David had exercised his sovereignty over Cum-

THE NORMAN BARONS. 179

hn'.i. Both then and during his reign, all the grants of
land in Scotland were made upon the feudal condition of
\ issalage and military service, a picturesque basis o(
society which had the additional merit of being extreme-
ly simple. This vassalage was fundamental to feudalism
and it provides the explanation oi the main- changes In
the ownership o\ the lands in Eskdale during the cent-
uries which followed the reign o( David. Baron suc-
ceeded baron as the lord of these territories, and the
changes were nearly always due to some violation o{ this
basic feudal principle. Failure to provide military help
or to give due service and homage, was at once visited
by forfeiture — a word which provides the key to open
Out many a confused period oi the history of Eskdale.
Grants oi land were made by Royal charter, but even an
instrument of this character was subject to repeated con-
tinuation, or as frequent revocation, if the feudal condi-
tions were not absolutely fulfilled. Their possession of
those estates did not render the Barons themselves im-
mune from service. They toiled not, neither did they
spin, as their vassals did, but still they had many duties
10 perform. They had to hold courts and dispense just-
ice on behalf oi the King, but, of course, solely as his
representatives, liable to be called upon at any time for
an account of their stewardship. For the essential dogma
ot the feudal system was that the King- was the embodi-
ment of the State, and was also the fount and origin of
wealth, and of every other good. To the present day we
speak of "the King's peace " and even "the King's Eng-
lish," phrases which embody the true feudal idea. As
well as these civil duties, military service was being
continually demanded o( the Barons, who were likewise
responsible for the good conduct and obedience of their
dependants.

iSo LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Another feature of the policy of David I. speedily
made itself felt in Eskdale. The personal character
of that King is said to have been one comprising
not a few attractive qualities. Fond of gardening
and tree culture, and of gentle habits, he was devoted
also to religious exercises. One of his successors, with
dry humour, styled him " ane sair sanct to the Croon."
His inclination to serious things doubtless came from
his mother, Queen Margaret, for his father, Malcolm
Canmore, was not by nature either gentle in habit or re-
ligious in practice. David showed his sympathy with the
church by lavish gifts of land to the various religious
communities which quickly sprang up during his reign,
and of these benefactions Eskdale, as we shall show
later, was not left without a fair share.

Along with the feudal system, — partly, perhaps, a natural
result of it, and partly arising through the temperament
and historic training of the Normans,— there came into
being the practice and recognition of chivalry as an obli-
gation upon those placed in high positions and in touch
with the throne itself. A trace of this practice of chivalry
survives in Eskdale in the name "Turnerholm," given to
that strip of land now divided by the Ewes road, immedi-
ately south of the Whitshields Burn. The name is a cor-
ruption of " Tourney-holm," that is, the place where
were decided those tournaments, combats, and tests of
military skill or courage which were such prominent
features of the romantic days of chivalry.

In its main effects the Norman invasion was nowhere
more complete than in Eskdale and the neighbouring
dales. These were portioned out amongst David's Nor-
man friends. Amongst those thus introduced into Eskdale
were the De Kunyburgs, Avenels,De Rossedals, De Lind-
says, Lovels, Frasers, Moffats, and later the Douglases.

THE NORMAN BARONS. 181

Annandale was awarded to Robertusde Brus, a Norman
name which, modified into" Robert the Bruce," was after-
wards to become dear to the heart of every Scot. Teviot-

dale was divided among the families of Ridel, Corbet,
Percie,and others. Lands in Clydesdale and the Lothians
were given to Walterus de Lindesaya, whose family was
afterwards to play a very influential part in the his-
torv of Eskdale and Wauchopedale. Other Norman
names appearing in Dumfriesshire at this time were
Comyn, [ardine, Sinclair, Johnstone, Baliol, Grant, and
Fleming. Some writers, also, ascribe a Norman origin
to the old Border name of Ker, but, as indicated in
:he preceding chapter, the name in this form is most
probably British, though its English synonym, Carre,
may be Norman in form. It will be seen from
this list that the Bruce was of Norman blood, and so
was the father of Sir William Wallace, the greatest and
most unselfish of all our Scottish patriots. The elder
Wallace is said to have come from Wales with the Nor-
man Walter Fitz-Allan, who founded the Scottish Royal
House o( Stuart. Margaret Crawford, the mother of the
patriot, is said to have traced her descent back to Thor
the Long, to whom reference is made on pages5i and 144.
The name of Maxwell which for many generations
was destined to wield so great a power throughout Dum-
friesshire, and certainly not least in Eskdale, was, in
ancient documents, written in the Norman form of Mac-
Cusville.* But the original form of the name seems to
have been Maccus-well, derived it is said from a Saxon
lord one Maccus who lived about 950 near Kelso, and
there became possessed of a famous salmon pool, still
known by the corrupted form of Maxwheel.

^ anon Taylor's Words and Places, c. viii.

182 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The name of Moffat, with its synonym Mowatt, is
said to have come from the Norman De Montealt. Fre-
quent reference will be made in the following" pages
to the Maxwells, but something should be here noted
of the connection with Eskdale of the family of Moffat.
Armstrong mentions" that there are records of four chart-
ers from Robert I. (the Bruce) of lands in the Barony of
Westerker to persons of the name of Moffat. Two of
these were grants to Adam Moffat of the "lands of
Knocis and Crokis " [the Knock and Crooks], and
two to Thomas Moffat of the lands of Glen-crofts
and Suegill, and another of the lands of Suegill only.
These latter places cannot now be identified, unless
Suegill be the original of Effgill, the local pronuncia-
tion of which — A-gill — is nearer to the spelling of
the former than it is to the latter. Armstrong remarks
in a note that the lands of Knock were in the possession
of the Moffats as late as 1607, but he seems uncertain
whether the Knock was in Eskdale or Annandale. The
Moffats continued, as owners, to occupy the Knock,
which, of course, is in Eskdale, until it was purchased
by the Buccleuch family, probably by Anne, the great
Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth. When the
Duchess came to reside at Branxholme, in the beginning
of the eighteenth century, she made it her policy to buy all
the lands in the district she could possibly obtain. There-
after the Moffats remained in the Knock, or Mid-knock,
as tenants of the Duke of Buccleuch until 1905. The
last tenant of the name was Mr. Robert Moffat, j.p., of
Gowanlea, Canonby, who entered into the tenancy in
succession to his father, the late James Moffat. The
termination of so long an occupancy, dating as we have

* History of Liddesdale, &c, p. 151.

THE NORMAN BARONS. [83

seen from about [300, and probably without parallel in
Eskdale, was a matter o( keen regret to his Grace the pre-
sent Duke of Buccleuch. Some of the Moffats of the
Knock, it is said, accompanied Robert the Bruce to Ban-
nockburn. From the Privy Council Records it appears
that on August 12th, 1504, King James IV., held a Court
at Dumfries,* and amongst other business despatched was
the trial of John Litill for the cruel slaughter of the
King's liege man Thomas Moffet, of Knock, and "being
at the King's horn for the same slaughter, and for art and
part for supplying and assisting the rebels of Eskdale."
Of this crime Litill was found guilty and was hanged. t

The survival of such well-known family names as Dou-
glas, Maxwell and Moffat seems to bridge over the gulf
of seven centuries, and to bring the gay and sprightly
Normans much nearer to our more sombre selves.

In this manner, then, began Eskdale to take on some
o( those characteristics which it still retains, not a feu
ot which were acquired from the Norman Barons who
had so summarily dispossessed the Saxon settlers, even
as they themselves had dispossessed the ancient British
chieftains.

Later in the same month the King paid Ins famous visit to Kskdale.
xix.
t Armstrong, History, p. 151, and Eskdale and Liddesdale Advertiser t
Ma\ 31st, 1905

CHAPTER XIII.

THE BARONIES.

7ITH the settlement in Scotland of the Norman
' and English Barons, the entire political admin-
istration of the country underwent a change. The
government by the King, with the advice and consent
of the Seven Earls, which had been the constitutional
rule, now gave place to a system imported from abroad.
In the place of the Earls, David set those Barons of
Norman or English race whom he had brought into Scot-
land on his accession, and amongst them he divided the
land. The areas over which the Barons were placed
were appropriately termed Baronies. These correspond-
ed roughly to the Manors of England, indeed, by some
writers, the Baronies are occasionally referred to as
Manors. The name remains in various forms to remind
us of those far-off days, but the tenure itself has passed
away with the setting suns. These territories were
granted, usually by charter, to the favourites of the
King, to be enjoyed by them at his royal will and plea-
sure, or during such time as the Barons might remain
loyal to his person and throne. The latter stipulation
was essential to the feudal system, and was the more
necessary in Scotland, because the larger number of
the Barons introduced by David were already vassals
of Edward of England, and the feudal obligations to
the two thrones were often difficult of adjustment. As
already indicated, this conflict of loyalties was respon-
sible in Eskdale, as in other districts, for the many and
frequent changes in the ownership.

THE BARONIES. 185

A further consideration for the due enjoyment of these
possessions was obedience and military service. Occa-
sionally the Barons were seriously distracted by their
being under the same rule of service to the two different
Kiners. The vacillation of some of the Scottish Barons
during the War of Independence was induced by these
irreconcilable obligations, which afford the key to what
is otherwise very puzzling. By remembering this, the
seemingly arbitrary actions of Edward I. may perhaps
appear in a different perspective, and so also may the
apparent lack of patriotism of many of the Scoto-Nor-
man Barons during those days of trial and testing.

The same military service, and the same obedience
which the Barons, more or less consistently, gave to the
sovereign, they exacted from their vassals and from all
their feudal inferiors. The system Certainly had the re-
commendations of simplicity and ordered arrangement,
and thereby it possessed advantages over the more loose-
lv organized relationships existing before the reign of
David.

One of the immediate results of this more settled order
was that the people were enabled to attend more zealous-
ly and continuously to the cultivation of their land, than
had been possible during the frequent wars which pre-
viously harassed the country. The pious habit of the
King of making settlements of the religious orders also
helped this civilizing process. The monks of the con-
ventual houses were, to some extent, skilled in agricul-
ture and the useful crafts, and thus combining these arts
and handicrafts with the exercise of their more spiritual
functions, they were enabled to instil habits of industry
into the surrounding population. This movement was
arrested, however, by the war which followed the at-

1 86 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

tempted usurpation by Edward I. of England. In like
manner, the commercial intercourse which had been
steadily developing between Scotland and England re-
ceived a severe check, which, so far as Eskdale and the
Borders were concerned, was not to be completely over-
come for several centuries.

The Barons who had settled on lowland soil soon ac-
commodated themselves to the requirements of their new
allegiance, and throughout the troublous years which
were to follow most of them remained loyal to the Scot-
tish cause, though to this, as one might expect, there
were some exceptions.

A Barony, then, was the feudal possession and the
sphere of influence of the Baron. Within its limits he
exercised over his tenants and vassals powers of almost
unlimited scope, being subject only to the over-lordship
of the King, from whom directly he held his rights and
privileges. These powers were not only political and
administrative, but were also judicial. Within his Barony
the Baron possessed not only all the subordinate powers
of fine and imprisonment, but he also held the right of
dismemberment, and wielded absolute powers of life and
death. It must be admitted, however, that though the
vassals and inferiors were often arbitrarily treated by their
Barons or immediate superiors, they were, nevertheless,
recognised as occupying a definite position in the State,
and in Scotland this position was respected, as it was in
perhaps no other feudal country. When a change of
ownership occurred it was marked by some ceremony
which took place, sometimes in the church, sometimes
in the churchyard. Such a ceremony would doubtless
serve as a proof of title in the absence of a charter or a
bond.

THE BARONIES. [87

From the time of David to that o( Robert the Bruce,
both Annandale and Eskdale were under this baronial
jurisdiction, which was separate from, and practically in-
dependent of, that oi the sheriff. In Annandale such
jurisdiction was exercised by the ancestors oi the Bruce,
but in Eskdale, as has been indicated, it was exercised
by the different great landowning Barons. The county
of Dumfries, as then constituted, consisted of the Sheriff-
dom oi' Nithsdale, the Stewartry of Annandale, and
the Regality of Eskdale, — jurisdictions approximating
roughly to the three main river systems. The Regal-
it v oi Eskdale, which must not be confused with a burgh
of regality whose title and privileges the monks o( the
conventual houses often obtained for the village which
clustered round their house, consisted of the different
Baronies enumerated below. The Lord of the Regality
held the same powers over the larger area that the Baron
himself held over the smaller. Should the Lord of Regal-
it} tail to perform his judicial functions, these reverted
theoretically to the Sheriff, but, in actual practice all the
powers and privileges were again assumed by the King
himself.

In 1610, by Royal charter, to which reference will be
made later, Langholm was created a free Barony, with
an area carved out of several of the other Baronies of Esk-
dale. Such a burgh was inferior in status and privileges
to a Royal burgh, but there were assigned to it some
ot the prerogatives of the Baron or the Lord of Regality,
though to him many rights were still reserved.

Gradually most of these special prerogatives, exercised
by the Baron within his Barony, fell into disuse, notably
bis eapital jurisdiction, and his right of dismemberment
and imprisonment in civil cases, but it was not until

[88 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

1747 that most of his judicial functions, and certain
other privileges, were formally resumed by the Crown.

The Eskdale Baronies, which, in a rough and indefinite
way, comprised the entire dale, were : —

Stapelgortoun.

Westerker.

dumfedling.*

Wauchope.

Langholm.

Bryntallone, or Canonby.1"

Tarras.
It does not appear from the records that Ewesdale was
ever constituted into a separate Barony, though in some
of the documents allusion is made to the Lordship of
Ewes. Probably it was apportioned between Stapelgor-
toun, and Westerker, and in its northern parts it was held
by smaller owners.

In estimating the effect of this Baronial settlement and
jurisdiction, regard must also be paid to the coeval rise
into positions of power of the conventual foundations, to
which, not only the King himself, but the Barons as
well, made frequent and considerable grants of land or
teinds, and other privileges. In Eskdale there was a
considerable number of these foundations, not all of them,
as will be seen later, being under the same diocesan au-
thority. The growing influence of these religious houses
afterwards created a factor often distinct from the power
of the Barons. Perhaps it would better describe the

* In a grant dated 1609 to " william erle of mortoun " the wording is
"ane haill and frie tennendrie to be eallit now and in all tynie dimming
the tennendrie of dumfedling. "

Tennendrie and Barony we have taken as virtually synonymous.

t Sometimes called Bkettalach, and so named in a grant of Robert
I. to John de Soulis.

THE BARONIES, i8g

position to say that the monasteries became in effect
Barons, and exercised all their feudal functions. As
a matter o( fact this was legally the case with the
higher dignitaries of the church, both in Scotland and
England. The Bishops of the Palatinate counties o(
Durham and Lancaster, especially, held their lands
on the ordinary feudal tenure, and they were not infre-
quently called upon to marshal their vassals and lead
them into the right The Regality o( Eskdale corres-
ponded to these Palatinate counties, whose rights and
duties were akin to those attached to the lordship of
the Regality. In the Regality of Hexham, the Bishops
of the early church exercised Palatinate rights. It is
worthy o( note, too, that the monks were quite as eager
as the barons in the use and enjoyment of the sports o(
the field. Thev preserved their forest and fishing rights
as tenaciously as they held their dogmas.

Attached to each Barony there was, what might be
called, a municipal or baronial corn mill, at which the
holders of land were required, as a condition of their
tenure, to have all their grinding done. The tenancy of
the mill, with all its concurrent privileges, in mo tendinis
cum multuris et sequel is, was commonly given with
the grants of land, and, as a result of this custom,
the religious foundations often possessed this, even as
they acquired other, industrial privileges. To the vassals
or feuars there was no option given of selecting any
other mill for the grinding of their corn. They were
feudally bound to go to the mill within the Barony, and
the miller, or his superior, had grounds of action against
any one who failed to perform this condition of tenure.
This law continued to a comparatively recent date. As
in the case mentioned below, grants were sometimes

igo LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

made which carried with them the privilege of grind-
ing at the Barony mill " without multure." According
to the old Scots law, "multure" was the quantity of
grain payable to the miller for grinding the corn for the
tenant. From the frequent mention of freedom from
multure, it would appear that the feudal superior was,
on the principle of "to him that hath shall be given,"
generally exempt from the dues, but that his vassals
and inferiors were always required to pay the tribute.
The monks, however, had all their goods and mer-
chandise admitted duty free.

The mill of Stapelgortoun would be a very important
centre of activity in the " toun." It probably stood on
that side of the river opposite to the feudal castle, which
is still called the Milnholm. Near to the present Miln-
holm House there are evidences of a mill lade once hav-
ing existed. Its course can still be easily seen by any-
one walking round the spur of the hill between Craig-
cleuch and Milnholm. The mill belonging to the Barony
of Westerker was on the Shiel Burn,* and, in later years
at any rate, there was another mill at the Knock. Wauc-
hope mill was at the Earshaw, a little to the west of the
Big Dowie Stane. On Bleau's map it is marked on the
left bank of the Wauchope, but we hazard the suggestion
that the mill was not there, but on the right bank of the
river. An examination of the ground in the recess formed
by the curve of the hill, about a hundred yards west of the
Big Dowie Stane, suggests that a dam had once run in
this place. The bed of gravel can still be traced almost
into Wauchope. If this was not the actual site of the
mill, it must at some date have been used for a similar

* From a rent-roll of the Buccleuch Estates supplied to the Commis-
sion of 1679, we find that "the milne of Shiel and Holm with the per-
tinents were sett in tack to the Laird of We'sterhall for 21 years."

THE BARONIES. [91

purpose. Langholm mill was o( course where it stands
to-day, and round about it was clustered the "mill-town,"
a name attaching until quite recently to the dwelling

house at the vn<.\ of Ewes Bridge. To the tenancy oi~ the
"corn and walk-milne o! Langholm,'1 there was some-
times attached the right to farm "the pettie customs of
Langholm and salmon fisheries o\ Esk and Ewes." We
read of one such tenancy held by Robert Elliot and Jannet
Maxwell, his spouse, at a rental o( ^,'466 13s. 4d. Scots,
or about ^39 sterling.

The mill of Bryntallone Barony, or Canonby, as it
afterwards came to be called, was at the Hollows. Where
the Tarras mill stood does not appear to be known, un-
less the old mill which stood near to Sorby served for
Ewes and Tarras jointly, — an arrangement not unlikely,
seeing that farms both in Ewes and Tarras were com-
prised in the Barony of Stapelgortoun. What possibly
may have been the basin for the storage of the water for
this mill can still be seen in Sorby Hass. Some artificial
work has obviously existed there, and the configuration
of the ground suggests some such use as this.

There was also a mill attached to Arkleton, and it
doubtless served for the higher parts of Ewesdale. That
at the Holm of Eskdalemuir, mentioned above, no doubt
belonged to the Barony of Dumfedling.

STAPELGORTOUN.

0\ all the Baronies created in Eskdale that of Stapel-
gortoun was the most compact, and preserved for the
longest time its ancient Baronial boundaries. Perhaps
owing to its geographical position it came to be the most
considerable and powerful of them all, and developed

iQ2 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

into a "town" of some importance. Afterwards, in 1628,
it was merged into the Burgh of Barony of Langholm
under the charter of the Earl of Nithsdale.

Stapelgortoun appears to have had some claim to the
dignity of a burgh. Until a comparatively recent date
there was within the Barony a tract of some twenty-six
acres of land known as "the burgh-roods of Stapelgor-
toun." This portion remained distinct from the rest o(
the Barony. At one time it was in the possession of the
Earl of Annandale, the only land he owned in Eskdale,
and it ran as a wedge into the Duke of Buccleuch's land.
The explanation given concerning these twenty-six acres
is that, originally, they were church lands, granted to
the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem as a reward or
thank-offering for the defeat of the Saracens in the Crus-
ades. They were, consequently, held as inalienable
until, at the Reformation, they reverted to the Crown
and were afterwards granted to the Earl of Annandale.

When first mentioned, the Barony of Stapelgortoun,
which extended southwards from Westerker on both
banks of the Esk, was in the possession of one William
de Kunyburg, to whom, evidently, the Barony had
been granted by David I. in the twelfth century.
The boundaries of the Barony are now difficult of
exact demarcation. Probably it lay between the neigh-
bouring Baronies of Westerker and Langholm, and ex-
tended, as a fourteenth century rent-roll would show,
even into Ewesdale, and included Arkin, Tarrisholm,
Rashiel, and Whitshields. Westward, it would march
with the Barony of Wauchope, and the so-called Roman
road along the flank of the hill, now popularly known
as the Timpen, was probably the main line of com-
munication between the two Baronies, and also between
Stapelgortoun and Canonby.

THE BARONIES. 193

During the reign o( Alexander III., a son of the above-
named Sir William do Kunyburg was in possession of
the lands, and he granted to Herbert Maxwell "one car-
ucate oi land in Langholme " in feu-farm. Some of the
boundaries oi this gram were defined as: "Beginning
at the end oi Langholme, as the fountain o( St. Patrick
runs down into the Eske and ascends 'in the same direc-
tion as far as the Blakesike which descends into the
Eske. . . ."t The grant also included part of the
Langfauld, and half a earneate of land in Brakanwra, and
there was added to the grant the right "that the said
Herbert and his heirs shall grind at the mill of Stabil-
gortoun freely without multure." There appears to be
little further trace in Eskdale of the Kunyburg family.
A daughter of the second Sir William married Sir John
er o( Ewes, to whom there was given, evidently as
a marriage portion with his wife, a grant of the lands
Oi Rig; in Westerkirk, on payment of a nominal ac-
knowledgment.

This mention of Herbert Maxwell is the first occurrence
ot the name in Hskdale, where, in later centuries, it was
to be so intimately associated with the varying fortunes
oi the valley.

In 12S1, however, Herbert Maxwell, or de Makiswell,
(the name during the transition period whilst the Norman
element was being slowly superseded), resigned these
lands oi Langholm and Brakanwra. Possibly they re-

\ carucate, or ploughlatid, was the extent of land such as a team of
oxen could plough in one season. An ox-gate, or what effeired to the
cultivation o\' one ox " where pleucfa and scythe may gang," was 13
un's. The husbandus, or cultivator, who kept two oxen for the com-
mon plough and possessed two ox-gates, had -•<> acres, and this acreage
ailed a husbandland. Four husbandi, generally joint tenants,
Working their common plough, had as their whole possession a plough-
|*te, that is the land tilled by eight oxen, or 104 acres.
t Armstrong, History, p. 152,

194 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

verted to the Crown on the decease of Sir William de
Kunyburg". Alexander III. then conferred the lands of
Stapelgortoun on Sir John of Lyndesay, his chamberlain.
Some four years afterwards, the King made Lyndesay
still another gift of lands in Stapelgortoun and Wauchope.
It is as feudal Barons of Wauchope that the Lindsays
principally figure in the history of Eskdale, but even
at this period, about 1290, they must have wielded a
paramount influence throughout the district of which the
town of Langholm is now the centre. Sir Philip Lind-
say, son of Sir John, had a son, also named John, who
seems to have adopted a religious life, and become
canon of Glasgow. At Newbattle, in 1315, he resigned
into the hands of King Robert the Bruce, "with staff
and baton, the Barony of Stapilgortoun.'1* That this
was a voluntarv cession may be doubted. Possibly,
being a monk, he could not hold propertv on his own
behalf and separate from his community. His father,
Sir Philip, like so many others, was an English as well
as a Scottish Baron, and held lands in Cumberland,
Northumberland, and Lincolnshire under Edward I.,
with whom he sided in the wars of succession. Ban-
nockburn had only recently been fought, and the Bruce
was now sifting the wheat from the chaff of the Scottish
Baronage. It was possibly as a part of this process that
the " resignation " of John Lindsay occurred.

The lands thus reverting to the King were granted by
him in 1319 to James Douglas, surnamed "the good."

Other grants, also within the Barony of Stapelgortoun,
were made from time to time to Sir James 44 for his hom-
age and service." On his death they all passed to his heir,
Sir Hugh Douglas. The connection of the Douglases

* /Vrmstrong-, History, p. 153.

THE BARONIES. 195

with Eskdale is dealt with more fully in a later chapter,
and Sit need not further he touched on here.

The annual value o( the Barony o( Stapelgortoun was
f circa 1376) returned at this time as under: —

PROPRIETORS.

Stapilgortoun -

£10

OS.

od.

Langholme

£ 6

OS.

od.

Brakanwra

£ 6

13s.

4d.

Dalblane, with Rig -

£ 6

13s.

4d.

TKNANDRIA.

Carlowsgyl

£ 0

4s.

4d.

Bondby -

£ 4

OS.

od.

Cowchargland -

£ 6

OS.

od.

Cragg

£ 6

13s.

4d.

Douglenn

£ 5

OS.

od.

Ardkane and Tarrishol

Ime

£20

OS.

od.

Rischelbusk

£ 2

OS.

od.

Tenetschel

£ 1

4s.

od.

Ouitschel -

Near to Stapelgortoun kirk stood the Castle of Barn-
talloeh, its site now, alas, only a grassy mound. It was
doubtless originally a Baronial house of considerable
Strength, encircled as it was by the river Esk, flowing at
the base of the cliff. That William de Kunyburg built
or occupied this castle is now largely a matter of con-
jecture. But o( this there can be no doubt, that it became
the centre of a hamlet, which served as the market town
tor an extensive area.

Mr. Bruce Armstrong remarks anent this entry, that, though includ-
ed iu ilu' Barony of Stapelgortoun, the lands at Brakanwra are in An-
uandale. History, p. 154. This is a curious mistake, as Brakanwra
and Stapelgortoun almost face each other across the Esk, and though
only a kirkyard remains of the latter there is still a house called

konwrae.

196 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

WESTERKER.

The Barony of Westerker* was situated between the
Barony of Stapelgortoun and that of upper Eskdale, or
Dumfedling. The first Baron of whom we have know-
ledge was Sir William de Soulis, a name that was to add
greatly to the picturesqueness of later Border history.
But mention is made of Westerker some years earlier
than the appearance of Soulis. During the wars of
succession the valley of the Esk was claimed by Edward
I., King of England, as within the territories of his
kingdom. In 1298 he issued an Order dated from New-
castle-on-Tyne to "his people of Westerkere in the
valley of the Esk," appointing " our faithful and beloved
Simon de Lindsay " chief keeper of the district, and com-
manding the attention and obedience of the people. t It
ought to be said concerning this Order that at no time
did the people of Eskdale, apart from some of the Barons
such as the Lindsays, recognise in any way the right of
the English King to their "obedience." Soon after-
wards Edward formally acknowledged that all the lands
of the monks of Melrose, which included the Barony of
Westerker, belonged to the kingdom of Scotland.

Soulis had received the charter of these lands, described
as being " in the Barony of Watistirkir in the valley of

* The Rev. James Green, writer of the Statistical Account 0/1841,
says : " This name is derived from the British caer, a fortlet, which stood
near the hamlet of Westerker upon the Megget Water, a little above its
confluence with the Esk. In Scoto-Saxon times " this strength " was
named Wester Caer, or Ker, to distinguish it from the Eastern Caer,
which is still visible on the farm of Effgill. There is another supposition
that Westerkirk derived its name from being the most westerly of the
Five Kirks of Eskdale."

The Statist of 1793 refers to Westerkirk as being- in the Barony of
Hawick.

f Armstrong, History, p. 150.

Simon was second son of the Sir John Lindsay mentioned on p. 194.
Both he and his brother John were made knights-banneret by Edward I.

THE BARONIES, [97

the Esk and shire of Roxburgh," from John o( Grahame.
He had come into possession through descent from the
daughter o( Robert Avenel, who had held lands both in
the Barony oi upper Eskdale and in that o( Westerker.+
Soulis forfeited these lands to the Crown during the war
ccession, and Robert I., who had the previous year
at Berwick confirmed the Graham charter, now granted
one moiety oi' the Barony to the conventual house of
Melrose, and the other he gave to Sir James Douglas.
From another charter quoted by Mr. A. Bruce Armstrong,
it would appear as ii Sir James had been given the en-
joyment o( the entire Barony, but the term ''whole
Barony " must be construed as meaning only this
moiety, seeing that Robert I. had already granted char-
ters o( lands in Westerker to the Moffats.

It would appear that certain lands in Westerker were
bestowed on one Sir James Lovel, who also held lands
in Ewes. These Westerker lands may have been part
of those formerly conferred by Robert I. on the Moffats.
They were forfeited by the treason of Lovel in the reign
oi David 11., who then granted them to Sir William
Douglas, the descendant o( the good Sir James. After
the battle of Neville's Cross in 1346, however, the half
iv oi Westerker was again settled, by Edward III.
01 England, on Richard Lovel. In 1354 David II. re-
stored to William, Lord o( Douglas, all the lands in
Eskdale oi which James, Lord of Douglas, had died
invested.

The rent-roll of Westerker is interesting because of
the 11. imes of lands there given, some of which are now

At this time both Ewesdale and Eskdale were in Roxburghshire, an
ingemenl which will be explained in a subsequent chapter.

e late Mr. George R. Rome | 1880) ascribed the charter to Soulis to

David 1., hut Mi. A. Bruce Armstrong (History, p. 150), quoting from
Morton Registers, says it was given by Jolm of Graham.

1 98

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

impossible of identification, and also because of the
Norman-French style in which some of them are set
forth. Thus : —

PROPRIETORS.

Wodkoclandis - - - £1 os. od.

Dalbech - - - - £4 os. od.

Le Irahw - - - - £0 4s. 4d.

Crimyanetoun - - - £5 6s. 8d.

La Schilde - £2 13s. 4d.

La Wdhond £2 os. od.

Watirstirkertoun - - £4 13s. 4d.

Albraisterland - ^3 6s. 4d.

Terre dominice - - £2 os. od.

Le Howis (in manu domini) £2 os. od.

Lyneholme £1 4s. od.

TENANDRIA.

Eskdalemur ( c. s. tenente Domino \
La Baly - ( Ade de Glendenwyne j

Le Howis et the Harperswate £3 os. od.

Le Knock - - - £6 13s. 4d.

Botkane - - - - ^3 6s. 8d.

Dalduran - £H os. od.

Ivegill - £2 os. od.

Pegdale - - - - £8 os. od.

Megdale - £$ os. od.

Glenscharne - —
Glenchroichon -
Le Wetbothinis

Glendow - £<\ os. od.

Several of these places still retain the names here given
or are easily recognisable, but others are impossible of
exact identification. The above roll, and also that of

THE BARONIES. 199

Stapelgortoun given o\i page ic)s, are taken by Mr. A.
Bruce Armstrong from the Morton Registers.

The terre dominice was doubtless those lands which
Liter were described as the mains of a Baronial holding,
whether eeelesiastieal or lay.

DUMFEDLING.

Concerning the early history oi' the part of Eskdale
now comprised in the parish of Kskdalemuir, there does
not seem to be much information on reeord. It is gene-
rally aeeepted that most of the lands of upper Eskdale
were in the Barony of Westerker. Support is given to
this idea by the reeord of Sir Adam Glendonwyn being
a tenant in 1376 of the lands of 4k Eskdale mur and La
Baly " within the Barony of Westerker, but whether
" Eskdale mur" was anything more than a vassal's hold-
ing is very doubtful.

Other evidences point to there having been a separate
unit in the feudal division of Eskdale, with Dumfedling
•S its centre. Justiee was dispensed and business trans-
ited 11 Stapelgortoun and Dnmfedling,* which seem to
been the administrative centres of Eskdale, though
Curiously enough the gallows, then an instrument very
freely employed in the administration of the law, was
situated in Westerker.

In his History of Liddesdale, &c. , Mr. A. Bruce Arm-
strong mentions that David 1., in return for eertain
•ervices rendered, granted a charter to Robert Avenelt of
the lands oi " Tumloher and Weidkerroe in Upper Esk-

■ New Statistical' Account, 1841.
Robertas Avenel and Walterus de Lyndysay were amongst the wit-
-t the charter granted by Malcolm IV to 1 he town ol St. Andrews.
Pennant's Tour, Vol. III., p. 461.

200 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

dale." In 1880, before the publication of the above
History, the late Mr. George R. Rome wrote of these
lands as 44 Tomleuchar* and West Cassock." Geo-
graphically, Cassock is nearer to Tomleuchar than Wat-
Carrick is, but there can be little doubt that the inference
from the charter points to the latter and not to Cassock.
There was generally a church attached to a Barony, and
that at Wat-Carrick served the district comprised in
these grants.t From an entry in the Taxt Roll of Melrose,
it would appear that the terms Dumfedling and Eskdale-
muir designated the same place and were interchange-
able. This Barony may therefore be most conveniently
distinguished as that of Dumfedling.

In his later years, Robert Avenel entered the monas-
tery of Melrose as a novice. He had previously invested
the monks with the teinds of the Barony. He died in
1 186, and was buried at Melrose, as was also his son
Gervase, who had succeeded him. His grandson, Roger
Avenel, confirmed the various grants, but disputed with
the monks as to the forest rights which his grandfather
had expressly reserved in his gift of the teinds. Inci-
dentally, in the award made by the King and his Barons
in this dispute, an interesting glimpse is given of the
wild life of Eskdale at this date. The monks, we observe,
were prohibited from snaring any animals except wolves.
Roger Avenel's only child married Henry de Graham,
who by her became possessed of all the lands. Henry
Graham's grandson, Sir John, conferred additional privi-
leges to those already given by the Avenels, to the conven-
tual house of Melrose. He yielded to the monks all the

* This is the name given on Bleau's map of 1662.
t At Wat-Carrick, as at Unthank and Wauehope, only the old kirk-
yard remains to identify the spot where the kirk once stood.

THE BARONIES. 201

rights o( hunting, fishing, and hawking, which the
Avenels had so jealously reserved. He also added one
which seems a doubtful compliment to a religious found-
ation that oi adjudging to death anyone who robbed
the property, and he also undertook to have the sentences
carried out on the gallows at Westerker by his own
bailies !

From Graham the lands passed to Sir William Sou lis
and then, on his forfeiture, to Sir James Douglas. The
obscurity concerning the bestowal o( the whole Barony of
Westerker on Douglas, referred to on page 197, may
be cleared by considering the Barony of Dumfedling
to have been included in the grant. On this assumption,
the Douglas would, in 1321, be possessed of virtually all
the lands within the Baronies of Westerker and Dumfed-
ling, except those in the former, which Robert the Bruce
had given to the Moffats, viz., the Knock and Crooks.
The Avenels appear to have been Barons of considerable
importance. Robert, the first Baron, had a daughter by
whom William the Lion had a natural daughter Isabel,
who, in 1 183, married Robert Bruce', the third Lord of
Annandale. Botli his son Gervase, and his grandson
Roger, were in turn hostages for the Scots King.

The ownership of considerable portions of the lands
comprised within the Barony or Tennendrie oi Dumfed-
ling underwent frequent changes. As shown in a sub-
Sequent chapter, a considerable number of new proprie-
tors were created after the battle of Arkinholm in 1455,
and some o( the smaller lairdships then formed continue
to the present day, whilst others existed separately until
the middle of the eighteenth century. An estate plan
ot the parish of Eskdalemuir, dated 1 7 1 S, shows the

Armstrong's History, p. 148.

2G2 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

subjoined lairdships then independent of the Duke of
Buccleuch but now belonging" to him: — Nether Cassock;
Aberlosk, now part of Langshawburn ; Grassyards, now
part of Dumfedling; Johnstone; Clerkhill ; Rennaldburn
and Cot. The lairdships still existing are Davington ;
Over Cassock; Raeburn ; Moodlaw and Castle O'er or
Yetbyre. The lands of Burncleuch belonged to the laird
of Crurie, who exchanged them with the Duke of Buc-
cleuch for those of Castlehill, which adjoins his property
of Yetbyre.

WAUCHOPE.

In 1 28 1 Sir John Lindsay, who held the office of great
chamberlain to Alexander III., was in possession of the
lands of Langholm, and in 1285 he received additional
lands in Stapelgortoun and Wauchope. His son, Sir
Philip died in 13 17, and was succeeded by his son John,
canon of Glasgow, to whom reference has already been
made. His second son, Sir Simon, was made guardian of
Hermitage Castle by Edward. He was taken prisoner by
the Scots at Bannockburn, but was afterwards released,
and Robert the Bruce restored his son, Sir John, to the
Barony of Wauchope. This knight, who was forfeited
by Edward Baliol* in 1340, fought on the side of David
II. at Neville's Cross in 1346, and there lost his life,
David himself being made a prisoner.

The Lindsays continued in possession of Wauchope-
dale until 1505, + when John Lindsay, for the slaying of

Baliol s decree of forfeiture, issued in the name ot Edward III. of
England, was as follows : — " Rex. Confirmavit Johanni de Orreton, in
fceda omnino, terras et teuementa infra Scotiam quaj fuerant Johannis de
Ly udesay de Walghopp militis concessa per Edwardum Regem Scotorum.
+ At this date Lindsay held not only the lands already enumerated,
but, in Ewes, he held Fiddleton, Blakhaw, Glenvorane, Glenvachane,
Hardway, Mosspaw, Unthank, and Mosspeble.

THE BARONIES. 203

Bartholomew Glendonwin, the sheriff or bailie of Esk-
dale, was sentenced to forfeit his life and estates. Justice
was apparently satisfied with the sentence only, for it

was never carried out. All these lands in Wauchopedale
and Ewesdale were indeed forfeited, but, as will be shown
later, John Lindsay soon afterwards received grants of
lands in other places to compensate him.

The lands in Wauchope were restored in 1593. Mr.
A. Bruce Armstrong saysT they remained in the posses-
sion of the Lindsays until 1707, when they passed to the
House oi Buccleuch, but this statement is scarcely accu-
rate. As early as 1679 the Duke and Duchess of Buc-
cleuch were in possession of virtually the whole of
Wauchopedale. In the information given to the Com-
mission of this date, consisting of Walter, Earl of Tarras,
Alexander, Master of Melvile, Sir William Scott, of
Harden, elder, and Sir William Scott, younger, the fol-
lowing farms are returned as then belonging to them : —
Irving, Coldstoune, Middleholm, Mirtholme, Stubholme,
Ersha, Hole, Neishill, Cross- Mungo, Blochburnfoot,
Bigholms, Glentinmont, Whitehope Knowe, Hallishaw,
Racknows, Wallholm, Dewiscore, Kinglandfoot, Currie-
holm, Westwater, Puttingstaneholm,St. Bride Hill, Brig-
stand, Waterholm, Glencorve, Tanabie, Water Grains,
Cleuchfoot, Calfield, "and the milne together with tlie
Row nie Hole sett to Hugh Scott minister." We have
quoted this list in full partly to show that there could
have been very little left for the Lindsays to possess, and
partly to give some idea of the population of Wauchope
at that date. This list comprises no fewer than thirty
farms and a corn mill. It will be noticed that Irving',

The process gives the name .is " bertilmow glendinnowtng'."
t History, p. 168.

204 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Coldstoune, &c, which one would have expected to find
in Canonby, are included.

LANGHOLM.

The Barony of Langholm was one of less import-
ance than either Stapelgortoun or Wauchope, and like
that of Tarras seems to have been of later creation. It
was situated partly where the Old Town of Langholm now
stands. In the documents of the period covered by the
foregoing notes mention is seldom made of the Barony of
Langholm, and it does not appear to have been of co-
ordinate extent or importance with some of the others in
Eskdale.

The first notice of the lands of Langholm is the grant
made by Sir William de Kunyburg of Stapelgortoun to
Herbert de Maxwell, in 1268, of 44 one carucate of land
in Langholme," which, from the boundaries defined,* ap-
pears to have been virtually what are now known as the
Castle Holm and Kilngreen. This land was resigned
in 1 28 1 to Sir John of Lyndsay, as already indicated.

The occasional mention in contemporary records of
the lands of Arkin (or Ardkyne) may relate to what in
some of them is called Langholm, for during the four-
teenth and fifteenth centuries the site of the Old Town of
Langholm was known as Arkinholm, and therefore it is
possible that the references in these ancient documents to
Arkin and Langholm may indicate the same territory. +

In common with those of the neighbouring Baronies,
the lands of Langholm came into the possession of the

* Armstrong's History, p. 153.
t In one charter mentioned {History, p. 162), by Mr. A. Bruce Arm-
strong-, the oider of enumeration is " Broomholme, Ardkyne, Lang-
holme."

THE BARONIES. 205

Douglases. In 1451 James II. gave to the eighth Earl
of Douglas a chartei oi the whole lands in the Re-
gality o( Eskdale. But after the battle of Arkinholm
(or Langholm, as it was alternatively designated), in
1455, when the power o\ the I louse of Douglas in
Eskdale was broken, there was a re-arrangement oi
territories, whereby Langholm, together with the posses-
sions and privileges belonging to the Lordship of Eskdale,
was awarded to the Earl o( Angus "on account of his
faithful service." Later, as we shall see, all these lands
passed to the House of Maxwell, a very powerful clan
already holding large estates in Hskdale, Ewesdale, and
Annandale.

RRYNTALLONK, OR RRETALLACH.

Considerable doubt may be expressed whether at any
time the Barons- o( Bryntallone was included within the
Regality o( Eskdale. It was one of a group of three
Comprising what was afterwards known as the Debate-
able Land. These three Baronies were Bryntallone,
Morton, and Kirkandrews-on-Esk. We shall see that
in 1528 Lord Dacre declined to admit that the Hollows
was in the Lordship of Eskdale, but claimed it as "a
parcell of the Debatable grounde."

The first mention of Bryntallone is in the reign of
David I. A Norman baron, one Turgot de Rossedal,
was then in possession of the lands. Probably he was
the only baron who exercised the feudal control of these
territories, for, in the succeeding reign, that of Malcolm,
Iiirgot de Rossedal bestowed them upon the monks
.-; Jedburgh, then a religious house of great influence.
Prom this date the lands o( the Barony seem to have

206 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

been administered as church property, and the grants
having- been confirmed by William the Lion, the control
of the ecclesiastical foundation was substituted for that of
the feudal baron. It was in 1220, following the arbitration
between the Bishop of Glasgow and the Abbot of Jed-
burgh, referred to on page 140, that the religious found-
ation received a separate and definite position, with
the customary rights and privileges of such establish-
ments. The Barony of Bryntallone, thereafter, became
known as Canonby, 4t the residence of the canons."
From this date, the history of Canonby is principally a
record of the religious house, and it will therefore be dealt
with as such, in a later chapter.

TARRAS.

The Barony of Tarras was one of late creation, and
it is seldom mentioned and then only briefly. As we have
seen, the Barony of Stapelgortoun stretched through Ewes
and into the Tarras valley. On the south, embracing
most of the lands of lower Eskdale, was the Barony of
Bryntallone. When the Barony of Tarras was created
in 1606 it comprised the lands lying between those of
Bryntallone and Langholm. These had previously been
the property of the Priory of Canonby, but had been
transferred to the Crown by the General Annexation
Act of 29th July, 1587, which enabled the King to
dispose of the vacant lands. The properties men-
tioned below he formed into the Barony of Tarras.
Others were granted to Alexander, Earl of Home, under
dates 1606 and 16 10. These were afterwards, in 16 19,
acquired by purchase by Walter, the first Earl of Buc-
cleuch, who, in 1629, by a bond conferred on his son

THE BARONIES. 207

David "the cloister - houses, Diggings and yards oi
Canonbie," which included Bowholm, the mains of Can-
onby, and also "the lands of Hoillhouse." Although
Hoillhouse is thus assigned to David o( Buccleuch, the
Barony oi Tarras in which it was included is expressly
reserved by the bond. The occasion of the erection of
the Barony was a grant to fames Maxwell and Robert
Douglas. The Act of the Scots Parliament recites the
charter as follows : "... to his hienes domestick
servitoris fames maxwell ane of the gentlemen ischearis
and Robert douglas ane of the equyriers to his hienes
derrest sone the Prince for guid trew and thankfull
services and for other grave wechtie and profitable
caussis . . . the landis underwrittin of before
callit the debetable landis viz. the landis of Tarresfute,
monibyherst, broumshielhill, quhitliesyde, bankheid,
Rienmeirburn, harlaw & harlaw vvod, rowingburne,
wodeheid, thorniequhattis, waberhillis, barresknowis,
wodhousleyis, hoilhous, torcune, broumshielburne,
auchinriffok lyand w'in the parochin of Cannabie and
of the landis of glunzeart, mortoun, and barnegleis,
hand within the parochin of mortoun ... to
be unite annexit erectit & Incorporat in ane haill and
trie baronie to be callit in all tyme cuming the baronie
oi Tarres. To be haldin of oure said soverane lord and
hissuccessoures in frie blenshe for the payment of a pair
of gilt spurs. t . . . Zierlie at the feist of witsonday

Ushers.

t Such considerations as these were customary. When on the death

of the "good " Sir James Douglas his lands were granted by his brother

Hugh to William Douglas, afterwards the Knight of Liddesdale, the

Mttter covenanted to pay to Hugh an acknowledgment of one pair of

gloves at Christmas.

James III. granted a charter to David Scott, one of the progenitors
ot the Scotts oi Buccleuch, erecting into a free barony some of his
I inds, tor payment of a red rose as blenche-ferme on the festival of St.
John, and many others might be quoted.

208 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

if it beis askit allenarlie."*

It was from the Tarras Water that the title of Earl
Tarras was given, in 1660, to Walter Scott, of High-
chester, the youthful husband of the more youthful
Countess Mary, daughter of the second Earl of Buccleuch.
The romantic marriage of this boy of fourteen and girl
of eleven was of brief duration, for she died in about a
year. Walter Scott was the first and only holder of this
title.

EWES.

The valley of the Ewes, though the river is a tributary
of the Esk, was not regarded as an integral part of Esk-
dale. During the period of the Baronies, Ewesdale was
under separate jurisdiction, and does not seem to have
been ever ruled over by any one great feudal lord. As has
been shown, the valley was cut across by the Barony of
Stapelgortoun, and that portion of it south of Arkin be-
longed either to Stapelgortoun or Langholm.

The upper portion of the Ewes valley was in the pos-
session of several feudal owners. It was probably its
nearness to Roxburghshire which originally brought, not
it alone, but Eskdale also, within the Sheriffdom of that
county. Indeed, Ewes seems to have been more closely
linked with Liddesdale than Eskdale. In 1528, when the
Earl of Cumberland, the English Warden, enquired
of Lord Maxwell, the Warden of the West March,
whether he should look to him to redress the injuries
done by the Liddesdale raiders, Maxwell replied that
not only Liddesdale, but Ewesdale also was "out of his
commission, and he would not answer for them." There

* Allenarlie = only.

THE BARONIES. 209

arc not lacking indications that, at one time, Ewesdale
w is esteemed oi greater importance than Eskdale itself,
hi Bleau's map of 1662, e,g.s the title given is ik Eusdail
and Eskdail."

The earliest owners of land in Ewesdale were the Lovels
and Kunyburgs. Where precisely their lands were situ-
ated we have no means of knowing. The Lovels pos-
SCSSed lands in Eskdale, adjoining those granted to
the Moffats, as well as in Ewesdale, but forfeited all their
possessions in [341. They were the first holders of the
Barony of Hawick, which, with Branxholm, remained in
their possession for about 250 years. It may therefore be
presumed that the lands owned by them in Ewesdale,
marched with, or, at least, were near to, those in Teviot-
dale. This would place them in the neighbourhood of
Mosspaul. The Lovels were English both by birth and
sympathies, and consistently supported the claims of
Edward. It was owing to this that their lands in Ewes-
dale and Eskdale were alienated. On the forfeiture of
the Lovels, David II. granted their possessions to Sir
William Douglas. The name of Lovel does not again
appear in the history of the district.

A daughter of Sir William de Kunyburg, about the
ven 1240, married Sir John Fraser, a feudal lord of
-dale, who, by the marriage, became possessed of
certain lands at Rig, in the Barony of Stapelgortoun.
The Frasers appear to have been about this time pro-
prietors of Arkleton, which we believe has continued
to the present time as a separate lairdship. They were
1 family of considerable repute, as one of them is men-
tioned as holding the office of Sheriff of Aberdeen.*

For pedigree of the Frasers of Ewesdale see Mr. A. Bruce Ann-
strong's History, p. 164.
1'

210 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The charter granting these lands in Ewesdale to the
Frasers was resigned by them in 1426 to the Duke of
Albany, whom James I., his nephew, had made Governor
of Scotland. They were at once bestowed by him upon
"his beloved and faithful Simon Lytil," who in return
agreed to " perform to the King and his heirs the services
due and wont from the said lands." The territory thus
granted included "Mikkildale, Sourbie, and Kirktown."
Probably it was at the last place that Simon Lytil then
resided,* though he seems afterwards to have gone to
Meikledale, from which he took his territorial designa-
tion— " the Laird of Mikkildale."

It is of interest to note that when, in 1482, the Duke
of Albany laid claim to the Scottish Crown, the price to
be paid by him to the English for their help was the
cession of Ewesdale to England, — a promise that Albany
was never able to fulfil !

In 1456 there were Armstrongs in Sorby, David and
Archibald Armstrong appearing at that date as witnesses
to a notarial document. In the sixteenth century grants
of land in Ewesdale were made to certain of the Arm-
strongs. In 1528 Lord Home obtained from David Arm-
strong a bond of man-rent in consideration of certain
lands in the " Uvyr parrochin of Ewisdale." In 1535 a
charter was given by the King to Herbert Armstrong of
the lands of Park, what is now called the Bush, in
Ewesdale, and in 1537 Robert, Lord Maxwell, by charter,
conferred the land of Arklitoun on Ninian Armstrong.

At this time the Douglases dominated the Esk valley,
and evidences are not wanting that they endeavoured to
extend their sway to Ewesdale as well. There, however,

* In the printed inventory of the Maxwell Muniments, he is given as of
Kirktown, in witnessing a document of date 29th December, 1469.

THE BARONIES. 211

they had a rival in their own kinsman the Earl of Angus,
who held the Lordship oi~ Liddesdale, to which Regality,
Ewesdale was more closely attached than it was to Esk-
dale. An instance of this interference of the Douglas
with the prerogatives o( Angus is on record, wherein
the Countess of Angus, widow oi the fourth Earl, sues
one of the Douglases in respect of ;£ 100 damage caused
by him in the " spoliacion " of her Ewesdale revenues.

Most of the lands of Ewesdale, like those of Eskdale,
fell into the hands o( the Maxwells when that House
rose to power.

A reminder of the ancient prevalence of separate laird-
ships in Ewesdale is seen in the fact that even to the
present day Arkleton and Meikledale remain in hands
other than those of the paramount owner.

CHAPTER XIV.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES.

IT was a saying of Thomas Carlyle that the history
of a nation was the history of its great men. If
this be true of a nation, it is also true of a locality : it
is undoubtedly true of Eskdale. For a period covering
some 500 years, the valley of the Esk was dominated by
three great families, in whose life-story its history is
almost completely merged. During that long stretch
of time one or other of these families exercised a con-
trolling influence in Eskdale, and in its hands lay the
failure or success of the people. As the story of its
fortunes and misfortunes, its successes and defeats, rises
or falls, so do the destinies, the happiness, and well-
being of the entire people of Eskdale. The narrative of
these centuries, even in such outline as is possible within
the limits of this volume, is one of romance, of excitement,
of struggle, and of tumult. The great barons quickly
rose to power and influence, and as quickly fell into dis-
favour and disaster ; and it may almost all appear as if in
those intriguings for power, — those rivalries of clans and
factions, those ambitions of individuals or families, — the
ordinary, undistinguished people of Eskdale, who after
all were the bulk of its population, had neither part nor
lot. But that was not so. By the rigidity of the
feudal system, the people were in the bundle of life tied
tightly to the baron. His fortunes could not fall with-
out theirs also declining ; he could not go to war and
they remain at home in peace and quiet. Should the
paramount lord quarrel with his neighbour, the quarrel

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 213

w.is not confined to him alone the entire vassalage was

in it. Individuality was disobedience, personal success
was incipient treason.

Thus, for 500 years, the history oi~ Eskdale was the
history o( its leading barons — their jealousies and
quarrels were the people's politics, the supercession or
defeat of their lord was a household and personal disaster.
It was this that made feudal Scotland so exciting a place
to live in — this that made its history a tragedy or a
romance.

From circa 1300 to 1800, then, the fame and fortunes of
Eskdale were successively under —

1. The House of Douglas.
11. The House of Maxwell,
hi. The House of Scott of Buccleuch.

It must not be concluded that at any time one of
these families had sole possession of the lands in the
watershed of the Esk. Through these turbulent cent-
uries proprietors were continually changing, and even
in tlie days of undisputed supremacy on the part of a
single family, there were other barons and owners of land.
Hut the above division is definite enough to indicate the
main lines of local history.

The periods of these great divisions may be approxim-
ately assigned thus : —

Douglases, 1319 to 1455.
Maxwells, 1455 to 1643.
Seen is of Buccleuch, from 1643.

As indicated above, there were other families who
wielded some power in Eskdale during these periods.
For instance, with more or less continuity, the Lindsays
occupied Wauchopedale for some 300 years, but this
family exercised a wonderfully small part in shaping the

2i4 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

destinies of the district. There were various other
smaller and less powerful clans in upper Eskdale and
Ewesdale, but their effect on the stream of Eskdale
history was a ripple, not a wave.

1. THE HOUSE OF DOUGLAS.

The first mention of the Douglases in Eskdale is
about 1 3 19. Bannockburn had been fought five years
previously, and the adherence of some of the Eskdale
barons to the standard of Edward had placed in the
hands of Robert the Bruce a number of forfeited estates.
It was in the allocation of these that the Douglases
were introduced to Eskdale. They, like most of the
other barons who had come into Scotland during the
reigns of Alexander and David, were English as well as
Scottish barons, and they, too, had sworn fealty to the
English Edward. But when John Baliol, the vassal-king,
summoned his first Parliament at Scone in 1293, the
Douglas and the Bruce both failed to appear, and Baliol
declared them defaulters. This seems to have been the
first occasion on which these two barons, whose de-
scendants were to provide one of the most thrilling
chapters in Scottish history, were united by a common
purpose, and it may have been this, perhaps only an
accidental coincidence, which first forged the bonds of
friendship — one can never tell. The histories of indi-
viduals are sometimes mingled for life as a consequence
of a word or a look.

The father of Sir James Douglas " the good " had ad-
hered to the cause of Wallace, when most of the Scottish
barons had fallen away, and one, at least, of the Lindsays
of Wauchope, Sir Alexander, had also remained true

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 215

to the national cause. Here, too, is an association, in-
teresting to Eskdale people, for the descendants of these
barons, that is, fames, Earl oi Douglas, and Sir Alexander
Lindsay oi Wauchope, fought shoulder to shoulder at
Otterburn, —

" Where Douglas dead, his name hath won the field."

On the field o( Bannockburn, the gooo\ Sir James
Douglas was created a knight-banneret by King Robert
the Bruce. And when the allocation of the vacant lands
was made, in 1319, the King gave to the Douglas
those in the Barony of Stapelgortoun, which had been
"resigned" by canon John Lindsay, of Glasgow. Is
it possible that, in selecting Stapelgortoun as part of
the reward to Sir James Douglas, King Robert the
Bruce was partlv influenced by sentimental considera-
tions? It was here, at Stapelgortoun, that was signed, in
the reign of David I. the charter, which first gave to the
great-grandfather of the Bruce those lands in Annandale
with which went the lordship of that dale.* True,
the Douglas already possessed lands in the Barony
o( Westerker, but what more likely than that the
sentimental reason was the determining one? It is a
matter o( pride to the people of Eskdale that their
beautiful vale should have been associated with one of
the most charming romances in Scottish history. The
story o\ the faithful friendship between King Robert the
Bruce and Sir James Douglas is known and cherished
by every Scotsman, and that Eskdale should have pro-
vided one of the tangible tokens of that friendship is
indeed pleasant to remember.

These grants were confirmed, in 1324, by the famous

* Armstrong's History, p. 152, note 5.

216 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Emerald Charter,* which was not so much a conveyance
of lands, as a story from the olden days of chivalry.
After giving to Sir James the criminal jurisdiction of all
the Douglas possessions, and releasing him from the cus-
tomary feudal services, excepting those required for the
defence of the realm, the Charter proceeds : —

44 And in order that this Charter may have per-
petual effect, We, in our own person and with
our own hand, have placed on the hand of the
said James of Douglas a ring, with a certain
stone called an Emeraude, in token of sasine
and perpetual endurance to the said James and
his heirs for ever."
In this almost sentimental action of the Bruce, we get
a swift glimpse into the deeper relationship which ex-
isted between the King and his gallant Knight.

Sir Herbert Maxwell laments1" the loss of the emerald
ring. The Charter remains, but the Ring is gone! Sir
James had fought by the Bruce's side throughout the War
of Independence. His patriotism was almost solitary
amongst the Scottish Barons, in its undoubted sincerity.
Some four years after the Emerald Charter had been
granted, Robert the Bruce died, and the Douglas ac-
cepted the solemn charge to bury the King's heart
in Jerusalem. Where is the Scottish breast that has not
thrilled at the story?- — how, beset by the Moors in Spain,
and, seeing that death was imminent, the good Sir James
took from round his neck the silver casket containing the
heart of the Bruce, and, flinging it into the Moorish
ranks, cried : 44 Forward, gallant heart, as thou wert

* Stapelgortoun is therein named " baronium de Stabilgorthaon." The
Charter is quoted in full in Hume of Goclscroft's History of the House of
Douglas, Vol. I., p. 74

t History of the House of Douglas, Vol. I., p. 56.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 217

wont ; the Douglas will follow thee or die" ; and, later,

how Sir lames was found dead with the casket clasped
in his .inns! Was there on the finger oi the knight
at that moment the emerald ring which had been given
him In- the Bruce? Most likely there was. Who knows,
then, but that this ring, tor which to-day Scotland would
give a king's ransom, now adorns the ringer o( some
Moorish chief or some Spanish grandee ignorant of its
romantic story? Thus began the connection of the
Douglases with Eskdale, which lasted until the family
fortunes were broken in the battle of Arkinholm. Strange
that Eskdale should also have come to be the Philippi
of the House of Douglas !

After the death of the good Sir James, whose body was
brought home and buried in the church at Douglas, in
Lanarkshire, dedicated to St. Bride, the lands in Eskdale
tell to his brother, Hugh, Lord of Jedworth Forest. Hugh
Douglas granted one moiety oi the lands of Westerker to
William Douglas, Knight of Liddesdale, who was known
as the Flower of Chivalry, (though, indeed, his treatment
of Sir Alexander Ramsay at Hermitage Castle, was bar-
baric rather than chivalrous), but he reserved to his own
use the manor-place, with the church lands and mains.
The reservation seems to indicate that Sir Hugh Dou-
glas, occasionally at least, resided at the baron's house of
Westerker, the situation of which cannot now be identi-
fied. Mr. A. Bruce Armstrong says* that the Douglases
did not usually reside in Eskdale. Their paternal estates
were, of course, in Lanarkshire, but from the reservation
ot the manor-place, and also from the fact that Archibald,
surnamed "the grim," issued his summons to his vassals
from "his castell in Eskdale," it would appear that at

* History of Liddesdale, &c, p. 154.

218 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

times he, at any rate, resided there, probably in the old
baronial Castle of Barntalloch.

Further estates were given to this family, in 1341,
when, on the Lovels being attainted as traitors, David
II. granted to Sir William Douglas part of their lands
in Eskdale and also Ewesdale where the Earl of Angus
already held the principal share. It will thus be seen
that, early in the fourteenth century, the Douglases were
virtually masters of Eskdale, excepting that the Lindsays
had the lands of Wauchope, and Angus, the Red Doug-
las, some part of Ewes.

In 1389 Archibald Douglas, who was the natural son
oi~ Sir James " the good," registered his title to the Barony
of Stapelgortoun before the Scots Parliament. Archi-
bald was Warden of the Marches, and, in 1385, did
useful work in amending and codifying the old Border
laws, in which onerous duty he was assisted by Sir Her-
bert Maxwell, his factor. The Douglases and Maxwells
were, at that time, in close friendship, which, alas, was
severed when the fateful day of the battle of Arkinholm
had dawned.

The splendour of Archibald Douglas's station wa^
scarcely inferior to that of the King himself. He and his
family exercised almost unlimited power over half of the
lowlands. Small wonder then that the Douglases excited
the suspicion of the King and the Barons. And small
wonder that even amongst their allies and friends, there
grew up a deep feeling of resentment, not against their
semi -regal state, but rather against their tyrannous
and insolent bearing. This was to reveal itself in an
increasing volume in the coming years until its culmin-
ation was reached in the field of Arkinholm.

At the date of his succession to the lands of Eskdale,

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 219

Archibald Douglas was probably the most powerful sub-
ject oi the King of Scotland. His life, accordingly, was
full of exciting adventure, for in those stirring times only

the lives of the obscure could possibly be quiet and un-
eventful— a possibility, however, which was seldom real-
ised even by them. Raids into England — that unfailing
resource o( the Border baron — skirmishes with hostile
elans, acting as umpire at duels,* — a lighter recreation
thrown in to balance the more serious duties of his posi-
tion, these filled up the days of Archibald i4the grim."

Not lacking in humour, either, was this Archibald.
When the first Scottish dukes were created, in 1398, he
was offered a dukedom, and the Herald addressed him as
11 Sir Duke," or as he would pronounce it, 44 Sir Duik,"
to which the jocular Archibald made answer: "Sir Drake!
Sir Drake!"1" Then, more so than now, must humour have
been a saving grace, tor, says a contemporary writer,
"the whole kingdom was a den of thieves. Murders,
robberies, fire raisings, and other crimes, went unpunish-
ed, and justice seemed to have passed into exile from the
lard."-

The knightly character of Sir James "the good" seems
to have embraced and almost monopolized all the virtues
oi the Douglas family, but his descendants were not lack-
ing in certain qualities which were valuable in such times
as those. Archibald "the grim " died in 1400, and at the
time of his death the family possessed, not only the
extensive lands in Eskdale, and the paternal estates in
Lanarkshire, but also territories in Stirlingshire, Moray,
Selkirk Forest, Clydesdale, Annandale, and Lothian.

Sir Herbert Maxwell's History of the House of Douglas, Vol. I.,
y. 122.

t In Robertson's edition of The Lay of the Last Minstrel^ note xc, a
•lory almost identical, quoted from Godscroft, is told of Angus.

+ History of the House of Douglas, Vol. I., p. 123.

220 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

He was succeeded by his son, known as Archibald the
" tineman," — the loser of battles, the man of the unlit lamp
and the ungirt loin. And with his accession to power,
the Douglas star began to wane. Factions, jealousies,
and conspiracies worked their inevitable result. The
Red Douglas intrigued against the Black, and the
House, being thus divided against itself, could not stand,
and began to totter to its fall.

In 1 45 1, the forces of disintegration were at work, but the
cracks in the structure were plastered over by a charter
granted by James II., confirming to the Earl of Douglas,
then a young man of 25, all the possessions his family
had enjoyed, and amongst the lands enumerated were
'• Eskdale, with Stapilgortoun," in the county of Rox-
burgh. In the following year, the Douglas received a
summons to attend the King at Stirling, and, evidently
without any suspicion, obeyed the mandate. Next day,
as he sat at the King's table, after supper, the mon-
arch beckoned him into an ante-chamber, and there,
it is supposed, demanded of him a renunciation of an
offensive and defensive alliance he had entered into with
Lindsay, Earl of Crawford, a relative of the Lindsays
of Wauchope and chief of their clan. To this demand,
the Douglas peremptorily refused to accede, whereupon,
without further parley, the passionate monarch* stabbed
him in the neck, and Sir Patrick Gray finished the treach-
erous deed. This incident — such occurrences were, in
those days, but "incidents" in the common, everyday life
— tarnished the honour of the King, but it was equally
easy of redecoration, and his subservient Parliament

* James had a red spot on his face, which caused him to be known as
" James with the fiery face." Sir Walter Scott thought they might have
called him " James with the fiery temper " ! W. Riddell Carre's Border
Memories, p. 18.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 221

passed a "white-washing" Act to wipe away the stain

o( the murder.

This Douglas had married the Fair Maid of Galloway
but by her had no children. She afterwards married the
brother of her murdered husband, who had succeeded to
the family estates. In 1452, the new Karl of Douglas and
his brother, the Karl of Ormond, refused to attend Parlia-
ment, hut later the King effected a reconciliation with
them, and things went more smoothly. Hut only for a
lime. The King harboured a suspicion, more or less well-
founded, that the Douglas was not sincere in his profes-
sions of homage and loyalty, and, without warning, he
made war upon him in 1455. Douglas sought the aid of
Henry V., but was refused, and the King's forces laid
waste his lands in Douglasdale, Annandale, and Ettrick
Forest The battles went against the Douglas, who sought
refuge in England, leaving his brothers, the Earl of
Moray, the Earl of Ormond, and young John Douglas
o( Balveny, to defend the family cause. These three
established themselves in the fastnesses of Ewesdale,
whence they raided and harried all the surrounding
country, thereby arousing the anger and hostility of the
other barons.

The man to strike the blow which was to reduce, for
the time being, the fortunes of the House was another
I )ouglas, George, the fourth Earl of Angus, known as the
Red Douglas, who, it is said, considered himself to be the
rightful owner of the family titles and estates. Angus
te^epted the King's commission to meet the redoubtable
trio of knights. In this he was assisted by a body of
Border chiefs, to whom the supremacy of the Doug-
lases had been distasteful, and their arbitrary methods
a cause of ill-feeling and irritation. This combination

222 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

of chiefs included the Scotts of Buccleuch, the John-
stones, Beattisons, Carlyles, Glendinnings, and others.
The hereditary friendship with the Maxwells had also
been broken by the ill-advised policy of the Douglases,
and they, too, were found amongst their enemies.

The united forces of the King and the Border chiefs
joined battle with the forces of the three brothers on the
ist May, 1455, in the battle of Arkinholm. This battle
was fought on the ground upon which the town of Lang-
holm is built, and it was decisive. Angus won the day.
Moray was slain. Ormond was wounded and taken pris-
oner. John of Balveny fled and joined his brother, the
Earl, in England. A price of 1200 marks was set upon
his head. For eight years he eluded his pursuers, but at
last he was captured in Eskdale by John Scott and eight
others,* taken to Edinburgh and beheaded. A month
later the estates of the Douglas were declared forfeited,
and so was his occupancy of the office of Warden of the
Marches, which had been hereditary in his House.

The Douglas lands in Eskdale were apportioned
amongst the chiefs who had borne a conspicuous part
in the battle. Naturally, the main share fell to Angus,
but the Scotts and Beattisons (Beatties) and the Glendin-
nings (who, at the last, had deserted the Douglas, from
whom they had enjoyed many marks of goodwill), were
rewarded with ample grants.

The lands attaching to the position of lord of Eskdale
were given to Angus in 1458 — " all and whole the lands
of Stapilgortoun and Eskdaile."t Jane Douglas, the

* History of the House of Douglas, Vol. I., p. 181.
t Mr. Armstrong {History, p. 159, note 4), mentions that, though the
family of Douglas ceased to possess the lordship of Liddesdale in
1491-2, there was reason to suppose that the Master of Angus still ruled
Eskdale in 1501-2, and quotes in support an entry in the Treasurer's
Accounts,

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 22;,

Earl's sister, in 1472, married David Scott, heir-apparent
o( Buccleuch. One of the provisions of the marriage
settlement was that the Scotts were to have the bailiaries
of Eskdale and Ewesdale for a period of seventeen years.

The battle of Arkinholm was,, therefore, an event of
great importance in determining the future of Eskdale,
for by it, in addition to the establishment of the
Beatties and Glendinnings, the Scotts were given a firm
footing in the district, and the Maxwells were also
brought into immediate prominence."

II. THE HOUSE OF MAXWELL.

The Maxwells, who had taken the side of the King
against their old allies and superiors, the Douglases, had
been known in Dumfriesshire, and partly in Eskdale, for
some 250 years. As early as 1093, one Ewen de Maccus-
well accompanied Malcolm III. to the siege of Alnwick.
This Baron had married a daughter of the Lord of Gal-
loway, with whom he received the castle of Caerlaverock.t

The first mention of the Maxwells in Eskdale was in
1268, when Herbert, son of Sir Eymer Maxwell, Sheriff
of Dumfries, received from Sir William de Kunyburg
the grant of land in the barony or Stapelgortoun to which
reference has been made on page 193. These lands Her-
bert Maxwell held until the death of the grantor in 1281.
Sir Herbert adhered to the Bruce during the war of in-

I11 1706, the Duke of Queensberry. the representative of the Douglas
family, was the largest proprietor in Dumfriesshire. His title and estates
passed to the Duke of Buccleuch, who was a descendant in the female

'.11c o\ the first Duke of Queensberry. His nearest male collateral suc-
ceeded to the titles and estates of Marquess of Queensberry.
+" Tin- Historical Families of Dumfriesshire, G. C. L. Johnstone, p. 17.

224 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

dependence, and fought and died for his country at Ban-
nockburn, as did his second son Sir Eustace.

John, son of Sir Eustace, went with David II. to
Neville's Cross, and shared both in the defeat of the King
and in his subsequent imprisonment in the Tower of Lon-
don. The next Maxwell, like so many of the Scottish
barons, made his submission to Edward III. and received
back from that monarch the castle of Caerlaverock.

When the Douglases rose to power in Dumfriesshire
the Maxwells were on terms of friendship and alliance
with them, and the friendship remained intact until the
Douglas rebellion, as mentioned above. It was on the
joint summons of the Douglas and Maxwell that the
Scottish barons were called to Lincluden in 1450 to codify
the Border laws. These were then embodied as Acts of
the Scottish Parliament. Amongst the provisions of
these Acts was on& restoring the system of bale-fires as
signals of danger, — on& of the many picturesque prac-
tices of the Borders.

As early as 1425 a Maxwell was appointed Warden of
the Marches, and it was probably in this way that their
connection with Eskdale was re-established. In 1488
John, the fourth Lord Maxwell, not only held this office,
but he was also Lord of the Regality of Eskdale. Max-
well was nominally on the side of the King in the second
Douglas rebellion, but after the death of James III. at
Sauchieburn he managed to get himself nominated to
these positions, whilst Angus was made Warden of the
East and Middle Marches. These two, therefore, prac-
tically ruled Dumfriesshire at this time. John was slain
at Flodden on that fateful and dark day in September,
1513 — one of the "Flowers o' the Forest" which then
" were a' wede awae,"

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 225

It is to his son Robert, the fifth Lord of Maxwell, that
the interest o( Eskdale people chiefly attaches. In 1505,
the Lindsays, owing to the affair of the Glendinnings,*
had forfeited their lands in Wanehope and Kwesdale.
Those lying in the latter valley, that is, the ten pound
lands o( Mosspaul, Fiddleton, Blakhaw, Unthank and
Mosspeble were bestowed upon Alexander, Lord Home.
They again reverted to the King, however, on the exe-
cution of Home in October 1516, and were given to
Robert, Lord Maxwell, who was quickly rising to a
position oi influence and power on the Borders. In
is 10, whilst still apparent to the fourth Lord, Robert Max-
well had received some of the lands of the Lindsays in
-dale. On Lindsay's forfeiture, his possessions in
Wauchope had gone to the Crown, but Lord Home was
111 possession of some parts of that dale, for in 1523 he is
enjoined " to put rewle in his landis of Wauchopdaill or
ellis to discharge him of the same to the Lord Maxwelle,"
from which it would appear that Home was holding
Wauchope with a somewhat slack rein.

I lowever, in 1525, Maxwell was granted a tack for nine
\ cars o( all the lands of Wauchope with the mills, fort-
alice, and fisheries. Hut in 1530, before the tack had
expired, Maxwell received a charter putting him in full
ession of the lands, one of the conditions being
that he should build and repair " the house, tower,
and fortalice of Wauchope," and retain it for the
King's service. Two years later, Maxwell's posses-
sions and power in Eskdale were further augmented
by a grant from the King of some of the lands which
had been given to the Beattisons for their services at the

* See Chapter xv.

226 LAW", HOLM AS IT WAS.

Battle oi Arkinholm, viz. , Enzieholm [ Eynze], Lyneholm,
Shiel, and also Billholm,and other places.* In 1540 Max-
well obtained from the Prior of Canonby, a lease of the
glebe land o\ Wauchope, for a period of five years at five
marks per annum. These facts indicate a position of
great responsibility and power, and Maxwell's task was
not made any easier by the distractions on the Borders.
The Government did not seem to fear that the dis-
turbances on the Borders jeopardised in any way the
patriotism o( Eskdale and the other dales, + but, being at
peace with England, seemed to have left the Border clans
free to engage in something akin to civil war. To help
to pacify the <4 broken-men" Maxwell, in 1525, 'had grant-
ed to "my lovit frend " John Armstrong, — on the prin-
ciple of appointing the most unruly boy of the school to
be prefect, — a charter of certain lands in Eskdale — "the
lands of Mylgill and Eriswood with the pertinents lying
in the lordship of Eskdale." In November of the same
year, John Armstrong of Gilnockie gave to Maxwell a
bond of man-rent, + undertaking to yield him "in man-

* The charter is dated July 27, 1532.— " Rex concessit Roberto Domino
Maxwell, heredibus ejus et assignatis terrarum 6 marcat : de Eynze
(clamat : per Adam Batie et ejus heredes, 20 solidat : de Lymholm clamat :
per Johannem Batie, in Moffet. 3 marcat: de Erschewode clamat: per
Adam Batie in Scheill, Adam Batie in Yetbyre et Heredes quondam John
Batie). 5 marcat : de Harparquhat et Appilquhat clamat : per John Glendin-
ningde Belholme, &ca. (viz., Scots, Grahams, Johnstounes, Litylls, Kirk-
pat ricks tie Knok heredes quondam John Armstrong-, Thomesoun, &ca. )
extenden in integro ad 245 Mercates antiqui extentus inter limites de
Eskdaill vie. Dumfries. Sheriff in hoc parte . . . And. Batieetalii.
(Witnesses) Adam Batie in Scheill.

Adam Batie in Yettbyre, &c, &c.

t Ewesdale at this time does not seem to have been included in Lord
Maxwell's commission as Warden.

X As an evidence of the paramount authority of Lord Maxwell men-
tion may be made of the fact that he received similar bonds of man-
-rent, not from vassals alone, such as the Armstrongs, but also from
such powerful lairds as Johnstone, Gordon of Lochinver, ancestor of
Lord Kenmure, Stewart, ancestor of the Earl of Galloway, Douglas of
Drumlanrig, and others. These were doubtless given, not as tokens of
vassalage, but with the wholesome desire to safeguard their own pro-

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 22-

renl and service first and before all others, myne allegi-
ance to our soverane lord the King allanerly excepted
and to be trewe, gude and lele servantis to my said Lord."
in return lor this bond, and under the same date, Robert,
Lord Maxwell, bestowed on Armstrong the lands of "Dal-
beth, Schield, Dalblane, Stapilgortoun, Langholme, and
Crwsnowte with the pertinentis." . Armstrong accepted
the bond with his hand at the pen, and by affixing his
seal.1 In 152c) Armstrong resigned the lands of Lang-
holm in favour of Lord Maxwell.

It seems fairly well agreed that if Maxwell did not
actually instigate many of the raids made by the Arm-
Strongs, he at any rate winked at them, and in the pre-
sence of Lord Dacre, the English Warden, he sometimes
resisted, not always passively, the attempts to bring them
to justice. Of course, he was bound, as their feudal super-
ior, to defend them from unjust attacks and false accusa-
tions, but there is ground for the suspicion that his pro-
tection amounted to something beyond that.

In connection with Johnie Armstrong's death in 1529,
when he was entrapped and murdered by the King at
Carl in rig, in Teviotdale, some doubt has been expressed
concerning Lord Maxwell's good faith. It seems to
he based on the fact that, three days after Armstrong's
murder, Maxwell received an absolute grant to himself
ol the lands Armstrong had held under the bond of man-

ivitv from the raids of the " broken-men," over whom Maxwell exercised
control.

In 1528 Ninian and David Armstrong gave a bond of man-rent to
.-■. I. oul Home, in return for a grant of lands in the Over-parish of
Ewes, probably Arkleton. For the text oi' these various bonds see the
Appendix to .Mr A. Bruce Armstrong's History of Liddesdale, &c.

This is probably what is now known as " Crawsknowe," — a lonely
ge standing far up on the side of W'hita.
+ An excellent drawing oi' the coat of arms is given by Mr. A. Bruce
Armstrong in Ins History of Liddesdale y &c, p. 228.

228 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

rent. Probably, however, the grant was only a legal
formality. It will he rememhered that when James V.
contemplated the decoying- of the Armstrongs he took
the precaution of first inviting Maxwell, Bncclench, and
other Border chiefs to Edinburgh where he had them
securely imprisoned hefore he set out for the Borders.
And in after years the clan of the Armstrongs loyally
served the heirs of Maxwell, which they would never
have done had they suspected him of being privy to the
contemplated treachery and guilty of breaking his word —
a sin heinous above all others in the eyes of the Borderers.

In 1536 Maxwell was entrusted by the King with a
mission of a very delicate nature. He was sent to
France to arrange the marriage of the King to Mary of
Guise. On the successful completion of the mission,
(though the poor princess died soon after her arrival at
Leith), James is said to have given a Maxwell the advow-
son of the Five Kirks of Eskdale.*

In 1542 Lord Maxwell had an adventure of a more excit-
ing kind. At the battle of Solway Moss he, with many
other Scottish nobles, was taken prisoner, as were also his
brothers John and Henry, and the son of his traditional
enemy, the laird of Johnstone. Maxwell is described by
Sir Thomas Wharton in his report as Admiral of Scotland
and Warden of the Marches, and his resources are given
as "in lands per annum 1000 marks sterling (English)
and in goods ^500 which is ^2000 Scotch." The re-

* This tradition was accepted by Dr. Brown, the Statist of the
parish of Eskdalemuir. It appeals to obtain confirmation from an entry
dated 1550 in the Dumfries Retours, which mentions that Robert, Lord
Maxwell, succeeded his father in the advocation of the churches in the
lordship of Eskdaill, as well as from the recommendation of Lord
Herries, quoted on p. 230. But, as will be shown later, the grant made
to Lord Maxwell in 1537 related to Wauchope alone and not to Eskdale
generally.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 229

sources of his brother Henry are given as nil under both
heads! Whilst Maxwell was thus imprisoned the King
"ordainit our lovit Johne Johnestone of that Ilk," to act
as Warden of the West March. Maxwell was liberated 111
the following year, but in 1544 ms parole was cancelled
and he was commanded to go to London, his son Robert
being appointed in his stead as Warden of the West
March. One day, however, soon after Robert's appoint-
ment, as he was going to Stakeheuch to arrest some free-
hooters, he was waylaid by certain Armstrongs,* prob-
able from the English Border w hither many of the clan
had tied after the murder of John of Gilnockie, at Yel-
low si ke I lead, near the farm of Blough in Wauchopedale,
and was sent to London where he was imprisoned. In
1546 Maxwell was liberated, but died a few weeks after
his reinstatement. He was succeeded by his son Robert,
sixth Lord Maxwell, then a prisoner in London, who is
also recorded as succeeding to the advowson of the
churches within the lordship of Kskdale.

In 1557, Cristofer Armstrong,"*" son of John of Gil-
nockie, gave a bond of man-rent to John, Lord Max-
well, and in consideration, received from him a grant
01 the lands held by his father at the time of his murder
in 1 529. And in 1562 another bond was executed by
which Christie Armstrong of Barnegleis was made
keeper ol Langholm Castle, and factor of all Max-

\\ hilst he was prisoner in England, tin' Armstrong's are said to have
ed his town of" Langholm ami put the English in possession of it."
Ibis incident is probably ;< pari oi' that referred to above. There is no
proof that this was done, as has been hast i ly assumed, by those Arm-
fs who had given Maxwell bonds of man-rent. In 1550 a long cor-
respondence took place between Lord Dacre ami the- Privy Council con-
cerning one Sande Armstrong, a partisan of England, who threatened
>me a Scottishman, if he was not protected by the English Warden
»l the Lord Maxwell.
+ In his Border Minstrelsy, Sir Walter Scott says tin- reference in the
"God In- with thee Kirsty, my son. is to this Cristofer.

230 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

well's property in Eskdale, until John, Lord Maxwell,
should be "of perfyct age."* At this time the Arm-
strongs appear to have held the lands of Broomholm, in
addition to other places in Kskdale. Their tenancy of
Broomholm lasted probably until 1585, that is after Lord
Maxwell's raid to Stirling. t

In 1578 there happened an incident the effects of which
were felt for many a long year in Eskdale, and throughout
the Borders, viz., the appointment of the Laird of Johnstone
as Warden of the West March. Lord Maxwell's tenure
of the office of Warden was characterized by gross mis-
government. So evident was this that Lord Herries,
another Maxwell, and uncle of the Warden, made a re-
commendation which can be best described in his own
quaint language : —

"It is expedient that the Lord Maxwell quhais
guidsire gat the maist part of the lands of Esk-
dale Ewisdale and Wauchopedale fra the said late
Kingis heines of gude memory, gif he be Warden
and remaine at Lochmaben, have ane honest
man his depute and capitane in the Langholme
and to dantoun that gret nowmer of mischevous
thevis, spend upoun him and ane househald thair,
the haill proffeittis that may be gottin of they landis
and kirkis of Watstreker, Stephen Gortoun, Wauc-
hope and Natherkirk of Ewis (alwyse Goddis
service the ministeris to be first sustenit), the
haill advantage with the maillis, multuris manis

* Border Minstrelsy, p. 259.
t It is worthy of note that Lord Maxwell in 1572 was " handfasted "
to a niece of the Regent Morton. Whether this took place in Eskdale,
at Handfasting Haugh, does not appear. More probably it was at Un-
thank, of which at this date Maxwell had the right of patronage. Sir
Walter Scott (in note xxxvi. to the Lay of the Last Minstrel J, says it was
to Unthank that the priest from Melrose, known as Book-a-Bosom, came
once a year to perform the " handfasting."

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 231

and utheris detfull dewiteis to be spend il in the
Langholme quhilk 1 think, may wele sustene tvvell
habil horsemen with thair capitane. "
Maxwell replied that such a proposal was needless, as

he was already bound to keep the peace. He had,
however, so incurred the displeasure of the Regent Mor-
ton that the latter removed him from- the office of Warden,
which, as just mentioned, he gave to Johnstone. Scarcely
anything could have occurred more likely to intensify the
hitter feeling ahead}' existing between these two great
Barons. 'The Wardenry, a thankless office, certainly,
was nevertheless the symbol oi power on the Borders, and
was as eagerly coveted by the Johnstones, as it was jeal-
ously retained by the Maxwells. These families had been
rivals for the office since the defeat of the Douglases at
Arkinholm, when both clans participated in the overthrow.
Efforts were continually being made by friends to heal
the relentless feud, which so often drenched the fair dales
man and Esk in blood, but these efforts met with
scanty success.

The point now at issue seems to have been con-
nected with the tenancy 01 the house or fortalice o( Lang-
holm. The Johnstones were in possession of it, and,
possession counting then (as now) as nine points of
the law, they refused to give it up to the Maxwells,
to whom it really belonged. The Johnstones themselves
were not living in the fortalice, (which, of course, was
that situated on the Castle Holm), but yet they clung to
it — on principle, no doubt. Maxwell's complaint was that
the Castle remained " unhabite be him or ony of his and
the key thereof is cassin only in ane byre to the said
Lord is aw in servandis that duellis in the laich housis
besyde the same; the want ot the said house is hurtful

l$l LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

to the haill country," and so on.* The arrangement
come to was that the Johnstones were to let the Max-
wells have the fortalice when they themselves were not
requiring it, but when, for the better government of the
Border, the Johnstones might want it, then they must
have it, though if, at any time, they left it, the Max-
wells were to get it. On paper, this seemed quite an
equitable and friendly arrangement, but for clans, at such
bitter enmity, there were lurking in it possibilities of
considerable friction. One would like to know how the
arrangement worked out in practice, but, like so many
Border incidents, the outcome of the scheme is left to
conjecture.

In the year 1581, after the execution of the Regent
Morton, Maxwell was again restored to favour. This so
enraged the Earl of Angus, that he made a raid into
Eskdale, ravaged the lands of Maxwell, and seized the
Castle of Langholm. The hostilities continuing, Max-
well, as Warden, was summoned, in 1586, to answer
before the Council for the disturbances. Refusing to
obey, an edict was issued again depriving him of his
office and titles, but graciously permitting him to leave
the country. This he did. He went to Spain where he
assisted the King of Spain to prepare the famous Armada,
and was able to offer him very valuable counsel. He then
returned to Scotland. When the King heard of this
he resolved upon active measures, and, marching into
Maxwell's lands, he burned some of his castles — Lang-
holm and Lochmaben amongst others. Maxwell him-
self was seized, and lodged as a prisoner in Edinburgh
Castle, but two years later he was set at liberty.

* Privy Council Records, 1578.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 233

The climax of the feud between the Johnstones and

the Maxwells was reached in [593. The former had
raided the lands o\ Lord Sanquhar, who appealed to
Maxwell, as Warden, for redress. Despite the fact that
he had only recently concluded an amicable agreement
with his hereditary enemies. Maxwell marched against the
[ohnstones with 1500 men. He was heavily defeated on
Dryfe Sands by Johnstone, who was supported by several
of the most important Border clans, amongst others, the
Elliots and Grahams and the Scotts of Eskdale and
Teviotdale. The Armstrongs, however, loyal to their
bonds, rode with Lord Maxwell, who not only lost 700
men, but was himself killed — murdered, really, in a bar-
barous manner, after being sorely wounded in the fight.*
His son, John, who succeeded him, was only a youth
of sixteen, but, naturally, he was filled with a desire
to avenge his father's cruel death. Very soon, in-
deed, he began to make himself felt, and, for the next
few years, he managed in a way, wonderful for a youth
of so tender an age, to keep the whole of Annandale and
Eskdale in a state of unrest and turmoil. Not only had
ho burning in his heart the antagonism of his House to
the Johnstones, but he and Angus also came to a rupture
concerning their respective jurisdictions in Eskdale.
Both Barons called out all their forces and Maxwell,
who seems to have been of an impetuous and turbulent
nature, challenged the Earl of Angus to a duel, to
decide by single combat in the orthodox Norman
way, what had failed to be determined by legal right
and equity. For this he was thrown into prison, but

Maxwell was now granted the title oi Earl of Morton, and, though
fix years later it was revoked, he continued so to style himself up to
the day ot his death.

234 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

escaped, with a daring and resourcefulness character-
istic of the youth. He next endeavoured to heal his feud
with the laird of Johnstone. Securing the good offices of
a mutual acquaintance, he succeeded in arranging a meet-
ing between himself and Johnstone, each accompanied by
a friend. These friends quarrelled, and the chiefs, of
course, were soon embroiled. In the commotion, Max-
well fatally shot Johnstone in the back. He fled the
country and went to France. Naturally, this treachery
exhausted the patience of the King — never too abundant
at any time — and he declared the fugitive's lands forfeited.
This was in 1609," when Maxwell was 32. Some years
later, thinking the murder would be forgotten, he ven-
tured to return to Scotland, and was arrested, and, finally,
on 2 1 st May, 161 3, he was beheaded. As usual, the
lands he had held were divided amongst those who, for
the time being, were in the favour of King James.

It was in connection with his fleeing to France that
the well-known Border ballad entitled Lord Maxwell's
Good-night was written. It is akin to the rest of the
ballads of the period, but perhaps obtains some special
celebrity from the exile and subsequent death of the hero.

To Eskdale people there is an especial interest in the
following verses : —

" Adieu ! Dumfries, my proper place,
But and Carlaverock fair !
Adieu my castle of the Thrieve,
Wi' a' my buildings there :
Adieu ! Lockmaben's gate sae fair,
The Lang-holm-holm, where birks there be ;
Adieu ! my ladye and only joy
For, trust me, I may not stay wi' thee.

* Seven years earlier than this, the master of Maxwell was possessed,
evidently in his own right, of the kirk of Wauchope, and, in 1604, his
father is recorded as possessing the donation o( the churches and chapel-
ries of Wauchopdaill, i.e., Wauchope and St. Bride.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 235

Adieu ! fair Eskdale up and down
Where my puir friends lIo dwell ;
The bangisters will ding them down,
And will 1 hem sair compell.
Bui I'll avenge their feid mysell,
When 1 come o'ei the sea !
Adieu ! my ladye, and only joy,
For I may nol stay wi' thee."

In the last verse of the ballad reference is made to the
circumstance that " most part o( his friends were there"
to see him embark, which is hardly likely, and is doubt-
less a mediaeval illustration o( poetic licence, though in
Glenriddel's MS. Maxwell of Broomholm is specially
H mentioned as having attended his chieftain in his dis-
tress and as having received a grant of lands in reward
of his manifestation of attachment." Whether these were
the present lands o( Broomholm, or whether the grant was
made by Robert, tenth Lord Maxwell, when the family
estates were restored, is not clear. However, Broom-
holm has been continuously occupied by that branch of
the I louse o( Maxwell to the present day, and its associ-
ation with Langholm has thus been maintained.

Following the flight of Lord Maxwell, his lands were
apportioned at the King's pleasure. This fact has a
most important bearing upon the history of the district,
for it was then that Langholm was erected into kkthe free
barony" as will be shown in a subsequent chapter.
Maxwell's lands in Eskdale remained alienated from the
tenth Lord until the year 161S, when, by successive Acts
in this and the two following years, they were restored.

Robert, Lord Maxwell, seems to have taken warning
by his father's wild and tragic career, for he speedily in-
gratiated himself into the royal favour. It was probably
in gratitude for this restoration, as well as the fact th.it
they were o\ like sympathies in matters religious, that

Minstrels} of the Scottish Border.

236

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 237

he held so loyally and earnestly by the failing Stuart
cause in the stormy years preceding the execution of
Charles I. And may not gratitude also have been the
motive oi his successor the fifth Earl oi Xithsdale, when
he so gallantly upheld the cause of the Pretender in 1715?

Lord Maxwell was, in 1620, advanced a step in the
peerage, being made Earl oi Xithsdale, and given preced-
ence as Earl from the date ot his father's being made Karl
oi Morton in [581. In the following year he received a
grant oi the teinds of Nether Ewes. In 1628 Lord Xiths-
dale made the grants o( land to the ten members of
the Maxwell family, on the condition that each of them
should erect a house of certain dimensions in the High
Street of Langholm. This charter is dealt with more
fully in Chapter XIX., and need not be further commented
upon here.

It would appear that Lord Xithsdale about this time
must have granted throughout Hskdale a considerable
number of perpetual tenancies of lands, as before the
Commission of 1679 appointed to make a return of the
Buccleuch properties, claims were frequently made that
such tenancies had been granted by the Earl of Xiths-
dale, evidently without any charter or other deed.

When the controversies between the wScottish Parlia-
ment and King Charles I. became acute, Xithsdale ad-
hered devotedly to the Stuart cause, with whose fortunes
he and his successors rose or fell. He was commissioned
by charter to summon the Convention of Estates, for the
express purpose of annulling those Acts of the two pre-
ceding reigns which alienated the old church lands and
settled them on the nobles.

During the Civil War in England Xithsdale safeguard-
ed the King's cause on the Borders. His castle of Caer-

238 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

laverock was the rallying point of the Royalists, and
was besieged by Colonel Home, the Parliamentary gen-
eral. In the end it had to surrender, one of the condi-
tions being that the Earl o^ Nithsdale should have a safe
journey guaranteed to either Springkell or Langholm
Castle. The Earl came to neither place, but, crossing
the Border joined the Royalist forces operating in the
north o( England. In condonation of what seems to
have been Nithsdale's breach of good faith, it is urged
that Colonel Home, whilst ostensibly agreeing to the
above condition, had given, orders for both Springkell
and Langholm to be closed against the Earl. Later,
Nithsdale again crossed the Border with Claverhouse,
on the latter attempting to break through into the High-
lands. Meanwhile, in 1644, Nithsdale's estates had been
declared forfeit by the Parliament, and thus there came
to an end that predominance of the House of Maxwell
in Eskdale which had lasted virtually from 1455, the date
of the Battle of Arkinholm. Thereafter, the Scotts of
Buccleuch, who had been slowly consolidating their pos-
sessions and prestige, both in Roxburghshire and Dum-
friesshire, became the paramount feudal lords.

III. THE SCOTTS OF BUCCLEUCH.

The third of the three great families whose fortunes were
closely identified with Eskdale, was the Scotts of Buc-
cleuch. The Scotts did not "come over with the Con-
queror." They were indigenous to the country, — and
this assurance comes as a relief in the story of our noble
families. Some authorities tell us that the name signifies
"wanderer" or "hunter," a meaning which well accords
with their history in the centuries with which we are now
concerned.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 239

By some writers the ancestry o\ the Scotts has been
traced to Michael Scott, the wizard ; by others to Duns
Scotus, the scholar. But lineages hack to saints or
heroes are usually mythical, and we prefer to date this
sketch from the man of action rather than from the misty
figure of antiquity from Richard Scott of Rankilburn,
who, in 1 296, signed the Ragman Rolls, rather than from
Michael the enchanter and seer. The Scotts had been
mentioned earlier than 1 296, as witnesses to the Inquisition
of the See of Glasgow made by David I. But this action
of Richard Scott of swearing allegiance to Edward I.
in 1296 simply brings the family into the main stream of
the history of that period. In 1346, fifty years later, it
is recorded that Sir Michael Scott fell at Neville's Cross
fighting for his King. Thereafter the Scotts were
among the foremost Scottish barons, and though their
blood was Scottish, and scarce a drop of it Norman, the
noblesse oblige of their position has ever made to them
its high appeal, and received from them an adequate
response.

The first ancestor of the Scotts of Buccleuch, with
whom we are here concerned, was Walter Scott of
Kirkurd. This chief was knighted for the help he gave
in defeating the Douglases at Arkinholm, that place
round which so much of the family history was to be
grouped. He also received grants of various lands in-
cluding Buccleuch and part of Branxholme.

The late W. Riddell Carre states* that Scott of
Kirkurd obtained in 1458 certain lands "as well as part
of the barony of Langholm." It is doubtful whether
Langholm was a barony at this date, or that Scott of
Kirkurd then received any grants in Langholm. There

* Border Memories, note, p. 51.

240 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

is a charter quoted in Fraser's Scotts of Buccleuch, of
date ioth September, 1455, which sets forth that Sir
Walter Scott, knight, and David Scott were given "the
lands of Quhitchester in the barony of Hawick, for the
faithful services rendered to us in the victory against our
traitors Archibald Douglas called Earl of Moray and
Hugh of Douglas his brother, Earl of Ormonde," but
no mention is made of any grant of lands in Langholm.
Down to the middle of the seventeenth century Branx-
holme was the chief seat of the Scott clan, but Sir Walter
was styled "of Buccleuch." This title is said to have
originated in an incident which occurred one day whilst
James III. was hunting in the royal forest of Ettrick.
The King had pursued a stag from Ettrick Heuch to the
glen now called Buccleuch. There it stood at bay, when
one of the Scotts seized it by the antlers and, it is said,
carried it to his sovereign, who exclaimed : —

"As for the buck thou stoutly brought

" To us, up that steep heuch

"Thy designation ever shall

" Be John Scott of Buckseleuch.""

Though this territorial designation was always given,
Kirkurd and Branxholme were also used alternatively
therewith, but ultimately they were entirely superseded
by Buccleuch.

When Sir Walter Scott died in 1467-70 he was pos-
sessed of very considerable portions of the shires of Rox-
burgh and Selkirk, most of which the family still hold.
He was succeeded by his son David, who had also fought
in the Battle of Arkinholm. From James III. he received
a charter erecting many of his lands into free baronies,
for payment of a red rose as blenche-ferme. In 1470 the

* W. Riddell Carre's Border Memories, p. 52.
Sir Herbert Maxwell rejects this story and g-ives Balcleuch as the
original name.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 241

Marl o( Angus gave a charter o( certain lands in Liddes-
da)e to his kinsman Douglas of Cavers, failing whom they
were to revert to David Scott o( Buccleuch. Two years
later we find that David Scott was married to Jane Doug-
las, sister of Angus, who possibly had in view such an event-
ual it v when he granted his charter to Cavers. With this
marriage David Scott received some territory in Liddes-
dale, and in the Lordship of Ewesdale, as part of the
bride's dowry, as well as the appointment of himself
and his father to the bailiaries of Eskdale and Ewesdale
for a period of seventeen years/ Angus, famous as
- Archibald Bel 1-the-Cat, " does not appear to have been
over-confident o( being able to give his future son-in-law
p tssession, either in Ewesdale or Liddesdale, for he in-
serted a clause in the marriage contract to the effect
that, ugif through war with Englishmen [he] can nocht
have these farmes," then others elsewhere would be sub-
stituted. Some years later, in 1484, the monks of Mel-
rose appointed David Scott of Branxholme, and Robert,
mi, to the office of bailies of the abbey lands in Esk-
dale for a period of five years, and this office the lairds
of Buccleuch held heritably until the passing of the
Heritable Jurisdictions Act of 1747. This appointment
marked an important stage in the connection of the Scotts
»v Buccleuch with Eskdale and their subsequent pre-
dominance there.

It is interesting to note that at this time there was a
I marriage relationship of the Scotts, not only with the
Maxwells but also with the Johnstones, the historical
antagonists of the Maxwells. About the year 1488,
Vdam, laird of Johnstone, who was first cousin to the
governing Maxwell of that day, married a Scott o(

Mr. A. Bruce Armstrong's History, pp. 158 and 165.
K

242 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Branxholme and Buccleuch, and by a precept of sasine
in 1493 he was charged "to infeft Walter Scott of
Buccleuch " with certain lands in the Stewartry of An-
nandale. Thus, gradually, four centuries ago, there was
being built up the acreage of the Buccleuch territories
in Dumfriesshire. In 1878 the Duke's rental from
Dumfriesshire was not less than ^79,000.*

David Scott, who had received the honour of knight-
hood from James III., died in 1492 and was succeeded by
his son Walter. The inventory of David's will gives an
interesting indication of the nature and extent of the
wealth of the Border lairds of that day. The value of his
oxen, sheep, cows, and growing crops amounted to ^740
Scots, or some ;£6i 13s. 4d. sterling. This trifling
valuation is explainable by the facts that most of the
lands were waste, and that the value of farm produce
and live stock was very small. One could buy an ox
for six shillings and a horse for thirteen or fourteen.
A boll of wheat brought two shillings, and a boll of
oats about sixpence. He left a sum to the kirks of
Hawick, Rankilburn, and St. Mary of the Forest for a
suitable priest to pray for his soul.

The Sir Walter Scott just mentioned was taken prisoner
in the Battle of Flodden in 1513, where James IV.
was killed, and where so many of the Scottish nobility
and so many worthy citizens gave their lives for
James and Scotland. He died in 1516, and was
succeeded by his son Walter. Walter's mother was a
Ker of Cessford, between which family and the Scotts,
there sprang up, about this time, one of those prolonged
and bitter feuds which characterized the mediaeval life of
the Borders. Through this ill feeling a great deal of un-

* The Historical Families of Dumfriesshire, p. 20,

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 24:,

rest and bloodshed occurred. The feud arose out o( an
attempt o\ Sir Walter Scott to aid James V. to free him-
self from the irksome surveillance and domination of his
powerful step-father, the Karl of Angus. Whether the
Kim.; appealed to Buccleuch to attempt his forcible rescue,
or whether it was the danger and romance of the situa-
tion that appealed to him, we do not know. At this time
Buccleuch could easily raise 1000 horse from Kskdale,
Ewesdale, Teviotdale, and Ettrickdale, and perhaps it was
this power over his own clan, as well as his influence
over the Armstrongs and Elliots, that caused Lord Dacre
to describe him as "the chief maintainer of all misguided
men on the Borders of Scotland.", The Kers supported
Angus, and it was supposed that Sir Andrew Ker had
slain one of the Elliots, who were then allies of Buccleuch.
This initiated the feud which reached its culmination in
. in the brutal murder of Sir Walter Scott in the
streets of Edinburgh.*

A further step in the consolidation of the power of
Buccleuch in Eskdale was taken during the lifetime of
this Sir Walter. In 1524 he received the heritable office
of the bailiary of the lands of Eskdalemuir, i.e. in the
Barony or Tennandry of Dumfedling. This office
enabled him to hold courts, appoint officers, execute
justice, and to levy rents for the behoof of the monks
Melrose, with Dumfedling as the seat of authority.

On Angus being exiled in 1528, his lands were divided
amongst some of the King's supporters, and Buccleuch
again received a fair share. It was this laird of Buccleuch
who, in 1529, was "commanded " by the King to Edin-
burgh, where, with Maxwell and others, he was quiet-
ly imprisoned, whilst the crafty King repaired to the

See The Lay of the Las/ Minstrel, canto i. stanza vii.

244 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Borders, ostensibly to repress the disturbances and hunt
in Ettrick Forest, but really to entrap and murder the
Armstrongs, and, as another item in his itinerary, to
arrest and afterwards execute Adam Scott, of Tushielaw,
"the king of the Border thieves."

Sir Walter was succeeded in the title and estates in
1535 by yet another Walter, whose occupancy of the
family lands was distinguished by a romantic raid into
England to further the interests of Mary, Queen of Scots,
to whom both the Scotts and the Kers were devotedly
attached. Queen Elizabeth retaliated by sending an
expedition to the Borders. Writing of this raid, Lord
Hundson says, "My Lord Lieut, [i.e. Sussex] and I
with sertan bands of horsmen only went to Branksum,
Bukklews pryncypale howse which we found burnt to
our hand by hymselfe as cruelly as ourselves cowld have
burnt ytt."

It was during Sir Walter's tenure of the estates that,
according to Scott's Lay of the Last Minstrel, there
occurred one of those surprising developments which
give such a charm to the 1 history of our romantic
Borderland. We have already stated on page 222 that
after the Battle of Arkinholm grants of land in Eskdale
were made to the Baties or Beattisons, in reward for their
services on that historic 1st of May. Lord Maxwell in 1532
got a charter of other Eskdale lands (see page 225), and
later, in 1537, he also received a grant of the Five Kirks
of Eskdale, according to some authorities, for acting
as deputy on behalf of the King in his marriage with
Mary of Guise/ There was an old tradition that when

* We again mention this tradition because ofits being so generally ac-
cepted in Eskdale, but reference to the Great Seal Registers does not
confirm its accuracy. The 1537 grant makes no mention of the Five Kirks
of Kskdale. The words are " terras de Wauchopdale, cum turre, for-

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 245

Maxwell came up into Eskdale to take effective posses-
sion of his lands, the Beattisons did not take kindly to
the arrangement, and forcibly resisted his action/
Things were looking very threatening for the Lord Max-
well, when one of the Beattisons, Holland of Wat-Carrick,
urged him to escape, and offered him the loan of his white
mare. Maxwell, it is said, was wise enough to recognise
the golden moment, and sped with all haste to Branx-
holme. There, he offered to sell his rights in Eskdale to
Scott " for a cast of hawks and a purse of gold." Scott
closed with the bargain and speedily mustering his re-
tainers proceeded to Eskdalemuir to take forcible pos-
session of his purchase. He expelled the Beattisons, but
on Maxwell's appeal granted to Holland Beattison the per-
petual tenant-right of Wat-Carrick, for a consideration.
The story of this mediaeval "conveyance" is related
in the poem, which is in the form of a recital by the
author to one of the Countesses of Buccleuch : —

"Scotts of Eskdale a stalwart band
Came trooping- down the Todshaw hill,
By the sword they won their land
And by the sword they hold it still.
Hearken, Ladye, to the tale
How thy sires won fair Eskdale. "t

Utliciis, molendinis, tenentibus etc. advocationibus ecclesiarum et capel-
laniarum earundem (si que essent) in dominio de Eskdale vie. Druin-
treis." The translation ot' which is: "lauds of W'auchopdale, with the
lower, fortalices, mills, tenants, etc., with the advowsons of the churches
and chapels of the same (if any there be) in the lordship of Eskdale,
County ot Dumfries." This seems clearly to show that the lands given
in 1537 related to W'auchopdale only, and not to the other parts of
Eskdale. The giant was given, "pro bono servitio in regimine limitum
OCCtdentalium regni in sua abstentia in Francie." This sentence seems
to suggest that the reward was given to Maxwell for his good govern-
ment ot the West March whilst the King himself was in France.

is a matter of historic fact Maxwell's lands at this date did not ex-
tend farther into Eskdale than Westerkirk!

+ The Lay of the Last Minstrel, Canto iv., Stanza 10.
ol the Beattiesthe Minstrel calls "Gilbert the gal Hard," and adds
m a note that in his day old people in Eskdale pointed out " Galliard's
Haugh " as the scene of the encounter, but the place cannot now be iden-
tified. In the ballad of The Lads o' Wamphray, the term " galliard " is

246 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Rolland's descendants, Sir Walter Scott says,+ continued
to occupy Wat-Carrick till within living memory.

" His own good sword the chieftain drew

And he bore the galliard through and through ;
Where the Beattison blood mixed with the rill
The 4 Galliard's-Haugh ' men call it still.

The Scotts have scattered the Beattison clan,
In Eskdale they left but one landed man ;
The valley of Eske from the mouth to its source
Was lost and won for that bonnie white horse."

Such is the story told by the Minstrel, and concerning
it this must be said, — that it forms a romantic tale :
it is fascinating as poetry, but it will not pass muster as
history. In the first place Sir Walter is here guilty of
an anachronism. The Minstrel speaks of Maxwell as
Earl Morton. He was not created Earl of Morton until
1 58 1, whereas it was in 1532 that he received the lands
of Dalbeth, which were then claimed by the descendants
of John Beattison, to whom they were given in 1458 as a
reward for services at Arkinholm. Secondly, the poem
implies that "the valley of Eske from its mouth to its
source " belonged to the Beattison clan. This was never
so. Sir Walter Scott may perhaps have been misled by
what Thomas Musgrave wrote in one of his letters to
Burleigh in 1584: "Eske is a fayre river," he says,
"and cometh through Esdell untile it come near a place
called the Langholme Castill and is Scottishe, inhabyted

applied to a Johnstone, and Sir Walter Scott refers to Galliard's Faulds
being in Teviotdale, so probably there has been some confusion between
the two incidents, as Sir Walter's geography was frequently at fault,
eg. his placing of Arkinholm in Annandale. It is stated that Sir Walter
obtained this and other traditions of Eskdale which he introduces into
his works, from Mr. Beattie, the laird of Meikledale, a descendant of
the Beattisons of Eskdale.

A " galliard " Sir Walter defines as " an active, gay, dissipated char-
acter," though he also quotes a reference wherein the word is applied
in a complimentary sense to one of the Westminster divines. Cp.
Loch invar, "never a hall such a galliard did grace," where the word
evidently relates to the dance rather than any person.
t The Lay of the Last Minstrel, note lv.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 247

with Battesons o( Esdell." But it is a violent interpre-
tation of this summary description to deduce from it that
all the valley belonged to the Beattison clan. Again, it
scarcely requires to be pointed out that the Beattisons
were not in such easy manner "scattered " from Eskdale.
They remained a fairly compact clan until the dawn of
the seventeenth century. It was certainly not the Scotts
who scattered the clan, but, as we shall see in the follow-
ing chapter, it was the steady application of repressive
measures against the " broken-men" of the Borders that
finally destroyed the power of the Beattisons.*

There were, however, many feuds between the Scotts
and the Beattisons, and we read of one reprisal by the
latter when, in 1547, being then under assurance to Lord
Wharton, they attacked Branxholme and did a certain
amount of damage to his barmekyns and towers.

Sir Walter Scott's romantic poem, unfortunately, has
been accepted as authentic history even by such a care-
ful observer as the late Rev. Dr. Brown, minister of Esk-
dalemuir and author of the Statistical Accounts of 1793
and 1 841. In the latter he refers to the Beattie tradition
as being current in Eskdale, and adds that when Scott
ol Branxholme had cleared out the Beattisons he pro-
ceeded, according to the custom of the clans, to grant
feu-rights to his vassals and dependants, and he gives a
a list of these settlements, without, however, vouching
tor its accuracy.

It is no part of the argument, of course, but in the following passage
From the Lay the author seems to have stretched poetic licence to its
breaking; point : —

"He blew his bugle so loud and hoarse
That the dun deer started at fair Craikcross ;
He blew again so loud and clear

Hi rough the grey mountain mist there did lances appeal-;
And the third blast rang with such a din
That the echoes answered from Pentoun-linn."

1 he distance from Wat-Carrick to Ponton Linns is approximately 17
miles!

248 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The apportionment was : Scott of Harden got Over
Cassock ; Scott of Davington got Upper and Nether
Davington, Fingland, and Pentland, Upper and Nether
Dumfedling, Nether Cassock, Wester Polclive, Wet-
wood Rig, and Burncleugh ; Scott of Johnston got
Johnston, Johnston Dinnings, Raeburnfoot, Craighaugh,
and Saughill ; Scott of Raeburn got Moodlaw, Rae-
burnhead, Harewoodhead, Yetbyre, and Yards ; Scott
of Rennelburn got Rennelburn, Aberlosh, Midraeburn,
Clerkhill, Greystonelee, Cote, and Coathope ; Scott of
Bailielee got Moodlaw Knowe, Grassyards, Kimming-
syke, Langshawburn, and Crurie ; and Scott of Branx-
holme reserved to himself the upper part of Thickside,
Easter Polclive, Garwald Holm, Castle Hill, and all
Black Esk.

This list, more or less accurately represents the
holdings of a clan of Scotts, in Eskdale, but, like other
writers, including Sir Walter Scott, Dr. Brown has
wrongly assumed that they were the Scotts of Buc-
cleuch. These lands belonged not to the Scotts of
Buccleuch but to the Scotts of Howpaslet and Thirle-
stane, known in Border history by the somewhat mis-
leading designation of "The Scotts of Ewisdaill," who
did not at this date recognise Buccleuch as head of the
clan. Most of these estates did ultimately come into the
possession of Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and Mon-
mouth, by purchase or in some other way, but in no
case until the end of the seventeenth century.

Fuller reference to this will be made in the succeeding
chapter, and it need only be said here that Dr. Brown's
history of the matter was based upon a confusion of the
two clans of Scott, and upon the pretty, but absolutely
unhistoric tradition of the "white horse" incident. Sir

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 249

Walter Scott, o( course, in his treatment of this theme
sacrificed historical accuracy to the poetic joy of enter-
taining In- his romantic "tale," the fair and charming
Countess o\ Buccleuch.

Further proof of the incorrectness of the above list
is obtained from a charter, dated 7th June, 1568, by
which James VI. confirmed a grant made by the Com-
niendator of Melrose to Alexander Balfour, of Denemylne,
oi, amongst others, the lands of Cassock, Finglen, Rae-
burn, Dumfedling, Powcliff [Polclive|, Cruikithaugh
[Craighaugh], and Moodlawheid.

Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch took an active part in
resisting the deplorable raids into Scotland made about
this time by Hertford, afterwards Duke of Somerset,
who, amongst his other atrocities, burnt Jedburgh
and Dryburgh Abbeys. He accepted one of the
commands in the army of the Earl of Arran, and
was assigned the duty of driving the English out
of Kskdale and Ewesdale. He besieged the Castle of
Langholm, and reduced it after three days, carrying its
captain prisoner to Edinburgh.

In 1 55 1 Sir Walter was made Keeper of Liddesdale
by Mary, Queen of Scots. Though owning devotion
to the cause of the Queen, Buccleuch headed the
Border Barons in 1569 in signing a Bond in support of
the young King (James VI.) In this Bond "they pro-
fessed themselves enemies of all persons named Arm-
strong, Elliot, Nickson, Little, Beattie, Thomson, Irving,
Bell, Johnstone, Glendinning, Routledge, Henderson,
and Scott of Ewisdale — in fact of those families who
baid fought on the side of the Queen at Langholm."*

The Historic Families of Dumfriesshire, p. 20.

250 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

All such, the signatories declare, " we sail persew to the
deid with fyre, sword, and all other kynd of hostilie."

Sir Walter died in 1574 whilst yet the task of rebuild-
ing Branxholme was unfinished. His widow married
young Francis Stewart, Earl of Bothwell, a lad of about
fourteen years of age, who developed into a man of the
most unrestrained and dissolute life. Bothwell made
over all his property to Walter Scott, his step-son, who,
however, had afterwards to restore the lands of Liddesdale
to Bothwell's son, who had obtained a partial restitution.
Later, however, the Scotts of Buccleuch again came into
the possession of Liddesdale, which they still hold.

This step-son of Bothwell succeeded his father in 1574.
Whilst only about twenty years of age he was appointed
Warden of the Middle Marches. He, perhaps, more than
any of his predecessors, raised the fame and prestige of
the House of Buccleuch, and gave it that unique hold
upon the imagination of the Borderers which it has ever
since retained. Fearless, brave, full of resource, he won
the title of the " bold Buccleuch," which is still one of the
popular titles 'of this great House. These qualities
helped to win him a peerage in 1606, but they did more
than any peerage to establish the Scotts of Buccleuch in
the undisputed position they have since occupied.
Probably the incident which appealed most of all to the
Border clans, whose training in a stern school had
taught them to value personal bravery, was the oft-
quoted rescue of Kinmont Willie.

This William Armstrong, known as Kinmont Willie,
is said to have been a grandson of Johnie of Gilnockie.
The exact relationship is not very clear, but certainly
Kinmont emulated the exploits of his famous kinsman. In
1587 James VI. made an expedition into Dumfriesshire

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 251

purposely to capture Willie, but failed. However, in
1596 he was arrested, — some writers say "caught,"— by
the English Warden, Lord Scrope, and lodged in Carlisle

Castle. Now this was a breach o( the truce then existing

between the Wardens.

•' And have they ta'en him, Ktnmonl Willie,
Against the truce of Border tide?
And forgotten that the bauld Buccleuch
Is keeper here on the Scottish side ?"

Scott of Buccleuch did not hesitate long. After
exhausting the usual diplomatic means, — protests to the
English Warden and representations to the Ambas-
sador, and wearying of the delay, he resolved to take
the settlement into his own hands. The plan of cam-
paign was settled a day or two before at Langholm,
where the principals met at a race meeting. Assembl-
ing his retainers from Teviotdale, Liddesdale, and Esk-
Jale, he marched down Ewesdale and concentrated his
forces at the Tower of Sark. Providing himself with
ladders and masons' and smiths' tools he set off with 40*
picked men.

"He hascall'd him forty marehmen bauld
Were kinsmen to the bauld Buccleuch,
With spin on heel and splent on spauld,t
And gleuves of green and feathers blue.

There were five and five before them a',
Wi' hunting horns and bugles bright,
And five and five came wi' Buccleuch
Like Warden's men arrayed for fight."

The story of how he tried to scale the walls of Carlisle
Lastle, but failed and had to undermine a postern to obtain
entrance, how in the face of the amazed garrison, with Lord
Scrope himself at their head, who discreetly kept within

Lord Scrope declared there were 500 ; Tytler's History of Scotland
- >; tlu- ballad ot Kinmont Willie says 40, and a MS. History of
! preserved in the Advocates Library gives the number as under
7"-

t Armour on shoulder.

252 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

his chamber, and how he effected the release of Kinmont
Willie, and bore him over the Border as he had come,
fording- the Eden and the Esk, both in great flood — is it
not amongst the records' of the House of Buccleuch?
This brave deed has been accounted one of the finest
achievements of warfare, and it compelled the admira-
tion of even Queen Elizabeth herself. As a Queen she
was grievously offended at this daring raid into her king-
dom, and demanded and obtained the arrest of Buccleuch,
but as a woman, she admired the dash and gallantry he had
shown. It is said that she asked him how he dared to
undertake so hazardous an enterprize, when he replied,
" What is there, madam, that a man dare not do ?" This
answer so impressed the Queen that she exclaimed " This
is a man indeed ! with ten thousand such men our brother
of Scotland might shake the firmest throne in Europe !"+
The rescue created a profound sensation throughout
the Border country, and it may safely be claimed that it
did more to enhance the reputation of Buccleuch than
even his later exploits in Holland with his regiment
of Borderers, which received both royal and mili-
tary approval, as well as a further substantial grant of
land. It is a matter o( interest, — is it not also a matter of
pride? — to Eskdale people, that they were represented
on this notable occasion. Amongst the "forty march-
men bauld " were Roby of "ye Langhame," three
Armstrongs of the Calfield, Jock o' the Bighames,:
young John o' the Hollows and one of his brethren, the

* For full details of the adventure, together with the gleeful ballad
which celebrated the release throughout the entire Borders, see Scott's
Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border.

t Tytler's History of Scotland, Vol. IV., c. ix.

£ Tytler gives Bighames as if it were the Christian name of one of the
Calfield Armstrongs, instead of his territorial title.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 253

Ch ingles/ and Christieof Barngleis. The rescueof Kin-
mom Willie not only created great excitement through-
out the Border country, but it attained the importance
oi a national question. A formidable list of charges
was formulated against Buccleuch, one of them being
that he had " bound himself with all the notorious riders
m Liddesdale, Eskdale, and Ewesdale." Evidently to give
moral support to this indictment, Lord Scrope, smart-
ing, no doubt, under the chagrin of having been so out-
manoeuvred by his fellow Warden, marched into Liddes-
dale with a large following, burned many homesteads
and literally massacred main- o( the people, including
inoffensive " barnis and wemen, three or four scoore."t
However, Buccleuch came safely out of the difficulty,
in which he had the sympathy, if not the help, of his
King — who, by the way, seems to have stood in mortal
bar of offending Queen Elizabeth, whom he hoped to
succeed on the English throne.

As already indicated, Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch
was, in 1606, raised to the Peerage of Scotland with the
title of Lord Scott of Buccleuch, and the secondarv
titles of Lord Scott of Whitchester and Eskdale. He
died in 161 1, and was succeeded by his son Walter,
who was made an Earl in 1619, and had the patent of his
Peerage extended to heirs-female. He also received
grants of land, and obtained other territories by purchase.
In 1 619 he bought the Lordship of Eskdalemuir; and from
Sir John Ker of Jedburgh, to whom presumably they
had been given after the Act of 1587, he bought all

The Chingles is named "Zingles" on the map dated 1590, given at
ilir beginning of Chapter xvi. Their tower stood near Ewes church,
mil the name survives in Swingle a shepherd's house amongst the hills
to the west o( the farm of Hush. It may be added that the historian
rytler queries this name in the list oi thoso aiding Buccleuch.
I Rev. R. Borland, Border Raids and Reivers, p. 223.

254 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

the lands belonging to the old Cell of Canonby, which
before that date had been under the Abbey of Jedburgh.
This purchase put Buccleuch into possession, not of
Canonby alone, but also of the extensive church lands
of Wauchope, which were usually conjoined with those
of Canonby. In 1629 the Earl granted the lands of
Canonby, with certain reservations, to his son David.

A man of considerable learning was this Lord Scott,
and a noble of almost princely hospitality. He had a
library of about 1200 volumes in Latin, French, Italian,
Spanish, and English. He died in 1633, at the age of
twenty-four, and was succeeded by his son Francis, who
was then only seven years of age. During his brief
life-time, he added considerably to the family estates,
acquiring Dalkeith by purchase from the Earl of Morton,
and on 7th April, 1643, also receiving a charter of the
Barony of Langholm. The granting of this charter
coincided with the forfeiture of the Earl of Nithsdale
referred to on page 238, and it made the Earl of
Buccleuch the principal baron in Eskdale, the greater
part of which now fell into his possession.*

Only one farther event need be here recorded of the
second Earl. He warmly espoused the cause of Charles I.
against the Parliament, and when Cromwell assumed the
government, he imposed upon the Earl of Buccleuch a
fine, the largest ever inflicted it is said, equal to about
£200,000 Scots. t

In 1653 the teind sheaves and other teinds of the kirk
of Westerker, within the regality of Melrose, formed
part of the property of Mary, Countess of Buccleuch,
who had succeeded her father, the second Earl, at the

* For a further reference to this charter see Chapter xix.
t W. Riddell Carre's Border Memories, p. 62.

THREE ESKDALE FAMILIES. 255

tge of five. It was she who, as before stated (pa^e 20S),
so romantically married Walter Scott o( Highchester,

afterwards Earl of Tarras. This young nobleman was
afterwards implicated in the rebellion o( Monmouth, who
had become the husband o( his sister-in-law Anne,
Countess o( Buccleuch. Owing to this complicity la-
forfeited in 1685 all his estates and titles, among the
lands mentioned in the Act of Annexation to the Crown
bein£ Cassock, Tameuchar, and Glenderi^, all of which
are in upper Eskdale.

CHAPTER XV.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS.

ACCORDING to some authorities, there were eighteen
^ recognised clans on the Scottish Border, besides
a number of what were known as "broken-men." The
latter were numerous groups, more or less closely bound
by family ties to act in co-operation, though not neces-
sarily recognising one head. The principal clans, such
as the Maxwells, Scotts, and Johnstones, held their
baronies from the Crown, and their chiefs exercised a
firm control over their members and retainers. The
chief of the clan was loyally obeyed by his followers,
and possessed more disciplinary power over them, than
did the most powerful baron outside the clan. This
suggests that the clan system was really a survival of
the old tribal laws of the Celts, modified by the altered
conditions of tenure. The head of the clan was looked
to by the government to pledge the good behaviour of
his followers, and was frequently required to give
hostages as guarantees of this assurance. These
hostages or pledges could be changed for others. The
Privy Council Records of the period contain lists of the
pledges and their substitutes, and also indicate the
various castles where such are to be warded.

The clan system, to which much of the lawlessness of
the Borders was, no doubt, attributable, was a corollary
of the feudal system. The well-regulated clan made
for law and civil order; but with the "broken-men"
things were different. Every man's hand was against
them. When the Border barons combined against the

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 257

••broken-men " in 1569, the latter were not permitted
" nor their wives, bairns, tenants, or servants to dwell,
remain or abyde or to pasture their gudis upon any
land is outwith Liddesdaile." Their raids, plunderings,
and feuds, however, were often the result of the weak-
ness of the central government, and of the political
relationships existing between the two countries.

Amongst these clans or "broken-men" the Armstrongs,
Elliots, Littles, Beattisons, and Irvings were the most
numerous and powerful in Eskdale.

THE LINDSAYS.

The Lindsays were amongst the earliest settlers in
Eskdale. As we have shown, they possessed lands in
Langholm, Stapelgortoun, and Wauchope, as early as
1285, and for several centuries they maintained a con-
nection with YVauchopedale, more or less broken by for-
feitures. These arose from their dual position as barons
in both England and Scotland. Their sympathies, for the
most part, were with the English King, and at Bannock-
burn, Lindsay of Wauchope fought against Robert the
Bruce, and was taken prisoner. Dr. James Taylor, in a
brief sketch of the House of Lindsay, says,* " they were
zealous adherents of Wallace and Bruce. One of them

ted at the slaughter of the Red Comyn." The former
o\ these statements does not accord with the remark in
Crawford's Lives of the Lindsays, that several of them
sided with Edward, one of these being Sir Simon Lind-

son of Sir John Lindsay, of Wauchope. It is clear,
however, that at the Battle of Otterburn the Lindsays

it bravely on the side of Douglas, Alexander Lind-

Imp. Diet, of Univ. Biography, Vol. X., p. 186.

258 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

say, lord o( Wauchopedale, being one of the most con-
spicuous. According to the plan arranged by the Scottish
commanders, Lindsay was to advance by way of Carlisle,
taking with him the baggage of the Scottish army,
and then effect a junction with the other leaders. The
head of the House of Lindsay at this time was Sir James
of Crawford, and he, too, fought for Douglas at Otterburn.
In the Scottish version o( The Battle of ' Otterburne refer-
ence is made to their valour in that famous fight : —

" He chose the Gordons and the Grains,
With the Lindsays light and g"ay.

The Lindsays flew like fire about,
Till all the fray was done. "t

Their stronghold was Wauchope Castle, adjoining the
present kirkyard. Here they kept state as lords of
Wauchope, and here many an exciting incident occur-
red. One such, indeed, resulted in the Lindsays losing,
for a time at least, their possessions in Wauchope. The
sheriff of Eskdale at this time was Bartholomew Glendin-
ning, in whose family the office was hereditary. The Act
of Parliament calls him "our soverane lordis officiare and
sherriff in that part." In 1505, in pursuance of his official
duties, he had to proceed to Wauchope to distrain the
lands of the Lindsays in respect of the third portion which
formed the jointure of Margaret, widow of John Lindsay.
His son John, who was in possession, resisted the distraint
with the full muster of his feudal retainers, and in the
skirmish which ensued, Glendinning and his brother
Symon were both killed. John Lindsay followed up this
incident with several lawless raids, and when summoned
to appear before the King and his Justices, he failed to
answer. The proclamation summoning him to appear
was made at the " merkat croce of drumfries," and he

+ Scott's Border Minstrelsy.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 259

had to "compear personalv " at Edinburgh, "or quhar it
sal happen thai in to be for the tyme." In his absence
he was found guilty of high treason, and sentenced
to lose his life and his goods. His lands in Ewes

Fiddleton, (Jnthank, Mosspaul, and Mosspeeble —
were given to Lord Home, and those in Wauchope re-
verted to the Crown.

But there seems to have been an element of insin-
cerity in this sentence because, in the April of the
following year, Lindsay received grants of land in
Galloway and Annandale.* From Pitcaim's Criminal
Trials we get a further glimpse into this fray at
Wauchope Castle. One Patrick Dnnwedy was con-
victed in 1508 of "art and part" in the killing" of the
Laird of Glendunwin, and "treacherously going forth of
Scotland and treasonably remaining out of Scotland for
common theft, and for the inputting and outputting of
>ds between England and Scotland." For his of-
fences, which appear to have been sins of omission, as
well as commission, Patrick was hanged, and his goods
escheated. The Lindsays do not seem to have identified
themselves in any intimate way with the life of Eskdale.
:pt with the Douglases, they do not seem to have
had friendly relationships with any of the great families
skdale, although, according to the Lives of the
Lindsays, they continued to possess the lands of Wau-
chopedale down to a late date.

From the Book of Adjournal of the Justiciary Court,

*Apud Edin. 30 April, 1507.

quia terre Johannis Lindesay olira domini de Wauchopdale infra

bonda.s de Wauchopdale, Eskdale, v\ Ewisdale, forisfacte fuerant; igitur

commotus, concessil eidem Jolianni Lindesay ad ejus misumi-

•m el ejus heredibus -terras de Bordland in Southwic, &c." — From

G >-iit Seal Register.

I ndei the circumstances the phrase " igitur pietate commotus" seems

oquent commentary on abstract justice !

260 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

it appears that at the King's Court held at Dumfries in
1504, the lord of Wauchope was "called" for his lands in
Hoddom and also in Wauchope, and not compearing,
was fined ^10 in respect of each of these. Evidently
John Lindsay was even then in that surly mood which
in the following year led to the murder of Bartholomew
Glendinning. The designation of the Lindsays of
Wauchope after they received the lands of Borland and
Borcloy was " of Barcloy and Wauchope," but they do
not appear to have again resided in Wauchope or to
have possessed lands there.

THE GLENDINNINGS.

This family, though it rose to considerable importance
and social position in Eskdale, was not one that sensibly
influenced local history. Its earlier representatives ap-
pear to have come from near Hawick, and to have been
introduced into Eskdale by the Douglases. Members of
both families afterwards fought side by side at Otter-
burn, "upon the bent so brown," where Sir Simon
Glendinning fell fighting shoulder to shoulder with the
Douglas. The Glendinnings maintained cordial rela-
tions with the Douglases until the Battle of Arkinholm,
when, like the Maxwells, they abandoned their old
friends and helped in their disastrous defeat. It has
been said by one historian, Anderson, that the laird of
Glendinning was slain in this battle by the Earl of
Ormond, brother of the Douglas, though the statement
has not been definitely established. If it be true, it may
be conjectured that Ormond sought out Glendinning
(to whom the Douglases had been liberal benefactors)
in revenge for what he would, not unnaturally, regard as
base ingratitude.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 261

As early as 1376 Sir Adam Glendonwyn occupied,
but only as a tenant, the farms of u Eskdalemur and
La Baly" -now known as Bailey Hill. In 1380 Sir
Adam was the receiver o( the Douglas revenues for
Eskdale. Later, he attained the high position of Am-
bassador to the English Court, and about this time
received grants of the lands of Bretallow, i.e., Barn-
talloch or Stapelgortoun. In 1391 he mortified certain
o\ his lands in the barony of Hawick for the establish-
ment of a church or chapel in Westerker, which was
that of Byken.

In 1407 Sir Simon Glendoning was appointed by
Archibald, fourth Earl of Douglas, hereditary bailie or
sheriff of Eskdale, an office which remained in the
family for at least 100 years. It was in the exercise of
the duties of this office that the conflict at Wauchope
Castle occurred, as already described. Towards the
end of the fifteenth century John of Glendonwin and
Parton "was possessed of the 80 pound land of old
extent of Glendoning, the lands and baronies of Bret-
allow, Wauchope, Langholm, Westerker." Amongst
the last were those of Daldorane, the name then
given to Westerhall. In 1458 the Glendinnings re-
Ceived a charter of the lands of Parton, and probably
most of the family removed there. But a consider-
able remnant must have remained in Eskdale, as
will appear later. Part of the lands of Daldorane
belonged to his sister-in-law, but John seems to have
appropriated the harvest, and now, by an Order of the
Lords of Council, he was ordered to restore it, to wit:
11 ij chalders and a half of mele and twenty four bolls of
mele, price of the boll xs. takin up be the said John oi'
the fermes pertening to the said Merjory of her third and

262 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

terce of the lands of Skraisburgh and Daldorane." John
of Glendoning did not seem sympathetic towards this
arrangement, for when summoned by the Lords he failed
to appear, whereupon they issued letters of distraint. A
similar Order was made in 1492 in respect of almost the
same lands, in favour of Bartholomew, his son and ap-
parent heir, and his wife Margaret, daughter of John
Gordoun of Lochinwer. Later, in 1532, we find the
Glendinnings occupying Billholm and claiming Harper-
what and Applewhat, which probably had been given
to them as their portion of the spoils after Arkin-
holm. In Monypeny's Chronicle, published in 1587,
the name of " Glendyning of Portoun " appears in the
list of the lairds of Dumfriesshire and Kirkcudbright.
This laird was a descendant of the Glendonings of
Eskdale. In 1606 Robert married Margaret Maxwell,
daughter of Lord Herries. By this marriage he obtain-
ed the enjoyment of Arkin and Broomholm, in addition
to the lands above mentioned. After this date most of the
Glendinnings seem to have left Eskdale, though repre-
sentatives of the family are still found in the valley.

THE JOHNSTONES.

The Norman name of which Johnstone is the Scots
form was de Janville, and sometimes de Jhoneville.* Like
most of the Border barons, the Johnstones came into
Scotland in the early part of the thirteenth century.
When Edward I. was trying to subdue Scotland, and
succeeded in bringing certain districts of the lowlands
under his sway, the Johnstones, like so many other

* The Historical Families of Dumfriesshire, p. 7.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 263

barons, swore the oath of fidelity to him, for Scotland
wis as yet only the land oi their adoption, not the land

of their fathers. But by the date o\ Ottcrburn these
Scoto-Norman barons had become more strongly im-
bued with Scottish aspirations, and so we find the
[ohnstones, as we found the Lindsays, fighting on the

side oi Douglas.

The Johnstones were, o( course, more intimately asso-
ciated with Annandale than Eskdale. Their principal
estates lay in the Stew art rv. Their nearness to the Max-
wells and the consequent clash of ambitions, provided
the opportunity for the family feuds which existed for
SO many years between these families. Personal rivalry
between the Lords of Caerlaverock and the lairds of
Johnstone excited, as we have already seen, much un-
rest and bitterness, aye, and much needless bloodshed
on the Borders during the fifteenth and sixteenth cent-
uries. It is no part of our duty to apportion the blame

indeed neither clan was blameless.

The Johnstones, who were the direct descendants of
Johnstone of Westraw, do not come upon the scene in
Eskdale until early in the seventeenth century. In 1608
Johnstone of Westraw was associated with his nephew,
the laird of Johnstone, in a petition praying for venge-
ance to be taken on Lord Maxwell, for the slaying of the
laird's father. In 1624 he sold his Lanarkshire estates,
which had been given to his ancestor for his services at
Arkinholm,and bought lands in Eskdalefrom theGlendin-
nings. As already mentioned, these lands were known as
Daldoran, or some variant of it, but after his purchase
Johnstone changed the name to Westerhall, as a remem-
brancer o( his old estate. The connection of Johnstone
ot Westraw, afterwards of Westerhall, with the Annan-

264 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

dale Johnstones, is indicated by his being made a party
to the suit, begun in 1619, by the Earl of Buccleuch and
other Border barons against the guardians of the young
laird of Johnstone, for the recovery of the Annandale
charter chest, which, after some litigation, was finally
restored by Lady Wigtown, mother of the laird.

The son of the first laird of Westerhall was the Sir
James Johnstone who came into such notoriety in the
days of the Covenanting persecution. At first, a zealous
supporter o( the Presbyterian party, he changed sides
and became one of the fiercest of the enemies of the
Covenant. In the Eskdale persecutions he was associ-
ated with John Graham of Claverhouse, and, as will be
seen in Chapter XXI., he was more relentless and more
inflamed with fanatical passion, as renegades usually
are, than even Claverhouse was. No further monument
of his infamy was needed in Eskdale, than the plain
stone standing on that bleak hillside at Craighaugh,
the spot where Andrew Hislop was ruthlessly shot by
Johnstone himself. In the fragment of the Baptismal
Register of Stapelgortoun parish, printed as one of the
Appendices to this volume, the name of Sir James John-
stone frequently occurs as a witness to baptisms during
that "killing time." No doubt it was because of those
days that so many legends came to be associated with
Westerhall.

Concerning the house itself there is very little that is
noteworthy. As will be seen from the illustration, its
architecture is mixed, and only a small portion remains
of the old Scottish baronial style of the original build-
ing. Many weird stories concerning Westerhall have
been handed down in Eskdale — stories of strange sights
being seen, and strange sounds heard. Many of these no

266 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

doubt owed their origin to ordinary and natural causes,
but they came to be associated with the religious feel-
ing oi the dale and centred themselves in Johnstone,
whose name was held in such evil repute in the genera-
tion following the Covenanting period. Some of the
"prophecies" of Alexander Peden, the Covenanter, re-
lated to the Johnstones and to Westerhall, and not a
few of these are believed by Eskdale people to have
come to pass.

In the hall of the mansion house there is hung the
text of a ballad, said to have been written by one of
the Johnstone ladies, an aunt of the present baronet we
believe, in honour of her family. The verses, whose
poetical merit it is not necessary to assess, are as follow,
the capitals given here being illuminated in the text : —

The Border Chiefs met at Westerhall,

And they sang- of the Raid and the Moon,

With their " ready aye ready," the Johnstone cry,

For they're " ready " both late and soon.

Sang- they : " The Johnstones aye were brave,

Nae man durst say them nay ;

Their aims are strong their hearts are true,

And they're mounted by night and by day."

The bold Buccleuch, the comely race,

Both chiefs of high degree,

In honour of the "Flying Spur,"*

Sang out in mirth and glee —

" In Eskdale and in Annandale

The gentle Johnstones ride

They have been here a thousand years

A thousand mair they'll byde. "

The laird of Westerhall was knighted by Charles II.,
for, it is said, the part he took in the suppression of the
Covenanters. The baronetcy dates from 1700. One of
the grandsons of the first Sir James was Governor John-
stone, who acquired a considerable repute as an admin-
istrator o( Britain's East India possessions, concerning

* The "Flying Spur" is the crest of the Johnstones of Westerhall.
Their motto is Nunquam non fxtratus.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS- 267

which, in 1771, he published a work entitled Thoughts
on our Acquisitions in the East Indies. In early life a
naval commander, he was, in [778, along with Lord Car-
lisle, sent out as one of the Commissioners to treat with
the Americans, then in rebellion, and to offer them liberal
terms of peace. Congress, however, declined to negotiate
with the Commissioners, unless as a preliminary they ac-
knowledged the independence of the United States, and
they were compelled to return home without having ac-
complished their object. Governor Johnstone, who had
acquired very extensive estates in Virginia, which only
recently passed out of the possession of his descendants,
afterwards became connected with the East India Com-
pany, and was noted for his violent attacks on Lord Clive.

Another member of the Westerhall family who rose
to considerable distinction was Sir William Pulteney,
lawyer and politician. He married the heiress of
William Pulteney, Earl of Bath — the famous Parlia-
mentarian of the reign of George II. — and took her
name. The Westerhall baronetcy fell in 1803 to the
nephew of Sir William Pulteney, the grandfather of the
present Sir Frederick John William Johnstone, who is
the eighth baronet.

Sir F. Johnstone of Westerhall was one of the claim-
ants before the House of Lords, in 1881, of the Annan-
dale Peerage. His claim, which was unsuccessful, was
based on the ground that he was a descendant oi~ Sir
Adam Johnson by the latter's son Matthew, who was an
armigerand esquire in 1455. There were several gentle-
men o( this name in the fifteenth century, but the name
Matthew is entirely absent from the line of the John-
Stones o( that Ilk, and Sir Frederick failed to establish
Ins right of succession, as his ancestor, Sir William

268 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Pulteney Johnstone, had also failed. Johnstone of Lock-
wood, the predecessor of the first Marquis of Annandale,
had, it seems, disponed "to his well beloved Matthew
Johnstone," certain lands in Clydesdale. The Wester-
hall Johnstones claimed descent from Matthew, but
though the latter was popularly believed to have been
one of the younger sons of Lockwood, he is not so des-
ignated in the above Disposition, and it was on this
ground that the House of Lords seems on both occasions
to have decided against the Westerhall claims.*

THE ARMSTRONGS.

Among the Border clans, none was more powerful,
none more famous, than the Armstrongs. During the
sixteenth century the clan wielded an immense influence
on both sides of the Border, an influence which had to
be reckoned with, by both the Scottish and English Gov-
ernments. The Armstrongs occupied many of the well-
known Border towers, around which the different branches
of the clan were grouped. Not only in Liddesdale, but
in Ewesdale, Eskdale, Wauchopedale, and Annandale,
they formed a considerable portion of the fighting men.
It is said that no fewer than 3000 Armstrongs from
the Border dales would answer the call of their chief.
Their raids and expeditions are matters of history.
Wardens corresponded about them, and so did Kings
and Queens, but the Armstrongs persisted and succeed-
ed, despite all " the resources of civilization " which were
requisitioned for their suppression.

Whilst this volume is in the press the Westerhall estates, after
being- held by the Johnstones for 287 years have been broken up and
sold in portions. The historic mansion house and the lands attaching-,
together with the hostelry of Bentpath and several of the farms, have
been purchased by Mr. F. Berkley Matthews, of Lartington Hall, near
Barnard Castle.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 269

The head of the clan was the laird o( Mangerton,
in Liddesdale, though [ohnie ofGilnockie seems to have
been its recognised leader. As early as 1376 there was an
Armstrong in Mangerton, and the connection between the
family name and the place lasted until well into the seven-
teenth century. Whithaugh was also a lairdship belong-
ing to the Armstrongs, and its chieftain ranked In im-
portance next to Mangerton. Mr. A. Bruce Armstrong
mentions that the original charter of Whithaugh having
been lost, Francis, Karl o( Both well, re-granted the lands
in 1586 to Lancilot Armstrong.*

The main interest in the Armstrong clan, so far as
Eskdale is concerned, centres in Johnie Armstrong, "some-
time called laird of Gilnockie." The coming of the Arm-
strongs of Liddesdale to Canonby, however, was not their
first appearance in Eskdale, for as early as 1456 there was
a David Armstrong in Sorby in Ewesdale. The Arm-
strongs continued to possess this lairdship until a com-
paratively recent date.

Johnie Armstrong of Gilnockie was a brother of Thomas,
laird of Mangerton, and would appear to have migrat-
ed from Liddesdale into Canonby, probably in the latter
half of the fifteenth century. We read that in 1501
James IV. ordered Bothwell, who was then Warden of
West March, to extirpate the Armstrongs, so evidently
even at that early date the clan had become obnoxious
to the ruling powers. When the King in person visited
Eskdale in 1504 on his tour of repression, known in his-
tory as the Raid of Eskdale, he summoned the Armstrongs
to his Court, but it does not appear that they obeyed,
j had been declared (i at the horn "t in the pre-

* Armstrong's History, p. 178.
1" The state of outlawry indicated by this picturesque phrase was de-
1 by an accompaniment of three blasts on a horn.

27o LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

vious year, and the King now sent one Jame Tailyour to
" fech the Armestrangis to the King," for which service
Jame received the sum of fourteen shillings, and con-
sidering the risk he ran the payment does not seem
excessive. The King gave himself the satisfaction of
hanging several of the Eskdale " thevis "" during this
visit, but the Armstrongs, who were probably his princi-
pal quarry, seem to have eluded his agents.

It must be admitted that during the times of unrest
on the Borders the Armstrongs were not consistent up-
holders of the Scottish authority. They seem to have
been swayed by motives of expediency, and occasionally
they even incur the suspicion of double dealing. Evi-
dence is not altogether wanting that, whilst they were
hunting with Lord Maxwell, they were also running with
Lord Dacre. I n one of the letters of Dacre to Wolsey dated
1517, whilst yet the English, flushed with their victory
at Flodden, were devastating the Borders, Dacre tacitly
admits that the Armstrongs are in his service in these
raids : " As for the Armestrangs and oder evill disposed
personnes, their adherents, the King's highnes shall not
be charged with none assistance from them, but only my-
self, "t Some charges against Dacre in respect of his
conduct as Warden were made about this time, one being
that he allowed the Armstrongs to frequent Carlisle

* The following items from the records of the period indicate the
systematic manner in which James IV., who seems to have possessed a
genius for this kind of thing-, went about the business : —

" Item, the xvij day of August to the man that hangit the

thevis at the Hullirbus ....... xiiijs.

" Item, for ane raip to hing thaim in . . . . v\\']d.

" Item, the xxj day of August to the man that hangit the

thevis in Canonby be the Kingis command . . . xiiijs.

" Adam Baty convicted of art and part with the King's rebels at the

horn, being of Eskdale, in their thefts and treasonable deeds and

for favouring supplying and assisting them in their (hefts, and of

common treason of new, hanged."

t Armstrong's History, p. 208.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 271

market, and another that he had failed to punish them
for their offences.

Between this date and the break up of the elan in 1529,
the Armstrongs were, under Lord Maxwell as superior,
in possession o\ very considerable holdings in Eskdale.
[ohnie Armstrong, the chid o\ the local branch oi the
elan, occupied the seat of authority in his tower at the
Hollows; his son Christie was at Barngleis ; other mem-
bers of the clan had lands in Stapelgortoun and Lang-
holm, and at Shiel and Dalbeth; whilst David and Ninian
Armstrong were vassals of Lord Home in respect of lands
m the Over-parish of Ewes.* Thus the clan formed almost
a circle round Langholm, a disposition of their forces
which must have afforded the Armstrongs a great strat-
egic advantage, both in attack and defence.

The repeated raids by the Armstrongs naturally evoked
reprisals, and considerable confusion resulted from the
fact that neither the English nor the Scottish Warden
was quite sure that the other was not aiding and abetting
them. Maxwell was strongly suspected of complicity
in their raids into Kngland, and Dacre, as we have re-
marked, admitted employing them in his secret service.
At length, the question became one of serious import to
both countries, and to solve the problem it was proposed
by the Scottish Council to lay waste the entire Debate-
able Land, and not only dispossess but slay its inhabit-
in the year 1569 pledges were taken from responsible persons on the
Border tor the good conduct of their subordinates, and though the
break-up of the Armstrong clan virtually dates from 1529, yet, from the
subjoined entries it will be seen that individual members exercised con-
siderable authority as late as 1569: —

"Christal Armstrong is enterit pledge for several thieves between
iby and Langholm the Armstrongs of Ewisdaile, their branch,
and the Armstrongs oi' Brumeholme and Wauchopedale."

" Andre Armstrong of Glengillis became surety tor Thomas his brother
"i Eskdail."

" Ekke Armstrong, son of the said, and Willie, son of the said, for the
of Muckledail named Little."

272 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

ants. The Government thought to make a desert, and
doubtless they would have called it " Peace !" The plan
to be followed was to take from the people, notably
the Armstrongs who had caused the commotion, "all
ther gudis and possessiones, byrn and destroy ther
housis, cornys hay and fewall and tak all thar wiffis and
barnys and bring them to portis of the see and send them
away in schippis, to be put on land in Irland or uther far
partis quhar fra tha might nevir return haim agane."
This root and branch policy — whether it was meant as
anything beyond a humorous suggestion may well be
doubted — required a like resolve on the part of the Eng-
lish Government as to the English raiders — and the idea
came to nought.

In 1528 Dr. Magnus, who was the English represent-
ative at the Scottish Court, reported that the Armstrongs
had destroyed 52 parish churches, a statement which
bears upon it the stamp of gross exaggeration. If true,
it is a remarkable sequel to the Monition of Cursing
issued against the Armstrongs and other clans in 1525,
by the Archbishop of Glasgow. The same criticism may
be made concerning the admission of Sym, the laird of
Whithaugh, who, when soliciting the protection of the
English King, at Alnwick, on the charming plea that
justice could not be obtained in Scotland, claimed that
he had "laid waste in the saide realme lx myles, ande
laide doune xxxt» parisshe churches and that there was not
oone in the realme of Scotlande dar remedy the same."

The Armstrongs paid small respect to the commands
of either the Scottish or English Warden, but seem, when
occasion demanded, to have played off the one against
the other, with much advantage to themselves. In 1526-7
the heads of the clan erected a number of strong towers on

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 273

the Debateable Land contrary to the agreement between
Lord Maxwell and the Earl o( Cumberland. Amongst
these the principal one was at the Ilole-hous, or Hollows,
the Stronghold of Johnie Armstrong, now known as Gil-
nock ie Tower. To destroy these towers Lord Dacre raised
a force of 2000 men, and marched into the Debateable
Land. Johnie Armstrong and his followers had got in-
telligence o( this proposed raid from Richard Grame of
Esk, it was supposed, and were prepared to meet Dacre.
In the fight the Armstrongs defeated the English ; but
Dacre, evidently with the aid of some pieces of artillery
supplied by the Karl of Northumberland, attacked and
burned the Hollows Tower. As a set-off, Armstrong
went down the same day and burned Netherby. These
occurrences were followed by demands for redress from
both Wardens. Dacre claimed from Maxwell in respect
o( the burning of Netherby, and Maxwell claimed from
Dacre in respect of the raid on the Hollows. The bills
given in by the two Wardens set forth the claims very
clearly and picturesquely. Dacre recites the story of the
attack on Netherby, and asks " redresse as the law of
inarch will." Lord Maxwell's answer is: —

" As to the burnyng of the houses in Nederby, in
In gland, this is myn ansuer. The same day before
none., com the Lord Dacre, SirCristofer Dacre, their
complicis and servantis, to the nombr of ij thousand
men, within the ground of Scotland and the landis
of Cannonby ; and there brynt ane place called the
Holehouse, and houses and cornes, and draif and
took away certain goodes ; and desires the said lord

An elaborate indictment was drawn up ag-ainst Grame tor this act,

'mi he was able to satisfy Dacre of his innocence.

274 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

that that may be redressed, for causs that all was
done at ane tyme accordanly to the todes."

Maxwell at the same time sends in a bill in which "com-
plenes John Armstrang of Stubilgorton, Scottisman,"
that Dacre came "to the Holehouse within the lordship
of Eskdale and the grounde of Scotland, and ther took
had and reft, of the said John, goodes, and his servantis,
horse, nolt, shepe, gayt, and insight of houses, and brynt
houses byggingis and cornes, again the vertue of the
treux," &c. Lord Dacre replied that the Hollows was
not in the Lordship of Eskdale, but was on "a parcell
of the Debatable Grounde,"and there the matter seems
to have rested.

The great confederation of the Armstrong clan was
broken up in 1529 by the murder of Johnie of Gilnockie
by King James V. But though the power of the clan
was crippled, the Armstrongs continued in considerable
strength in the various parishes of Eskdale well into
the eighteenth century. The story of the King's trea-
chery has been often told. The massacre, for such it was,
had been carefully planned by him and his councillors.
Those Border chiefs, such as the Maxwells and Scotts,
who might have thwarted the King's purpose, were, by
a trick, enticed from the Borders and put in ward in
Edinburgh or other places. When all the preliminaries
had been thus completed James set out for the Borders.
Travelling by way of St. Mary's Loch, he pitched his
camp at Carlinrig in Teviotdale, on 5th June, 1529,* and
seems, also, to have visited Ewes-doors and Langholm,
which Pitscottie calls " Ewindoores and Langhope." It
has been said that the King and Armstrong met near to the

* Pitscottie gives the date of the murder of the Armstrongs as 1530,
and other writers have accepted this date, but the evidence points clearly
to 1529 being the year,

OTHKK ESKDALE CLANS. 275

old toll-bar at Fiddleton, and that the former had his
camp on the hillside opposite, which thereby received
the name o( Camp Knowes. The King was ac-
companied by Sooo men, barons and lords amongst
others, all well armed, and provisioned for a month.
His purpose was a double one: to hunt game, and to
hunt those who were responsible for the unrest on the
Scottish Border, or were suspected of raiding. Very good
sport oi both descriptions had the King and his gentle-
men, who had brought their deer hounds with them.
Three hundred and sixty deer were killed," and " efter this
hunting the King hanged Johnie Armstrong, laird of Kil-
nockie quhilk monie Scottis man heavilie lamented for he
\\ as ane doubtit man and als guid ane chieftane as ever was
upon the borderis aither of Scotland or of England. And
albeit he was ane lous lievand man and sustained the
number o\ xxiiij weill-horsed able gentlemen with him
vitt he never molested no Scottis man." So says Pits-
COttie in his picturesque narrative of the King's " hunt-
ing." According to the well-known ballad it seems that
the King had invited Armstrong to meet him — the letter
being couched in terms of peace and friendship. Trust-
ing implicitly in the good faith of the King, they accepted
the invitation.

"The King- he wrytes a luving letter,
With his ain hand sae tenderly ;
And he hath sent it to Johny Armstrang
To cum and speik with him speidily.

The Eliotst and Armstrong's did convene,

They were a gallant company —
' We'll ryde and meit our lawful King,

And bring him safe to Gilnockie.'

They ran their horse on the Langholm holm,
And brake their speirs wi" mickle main ;

The ladys lukit frae their loft-windows —
'God bring our men weil back again !'

Dr. Borland's Border Raids and Reivers, p. 183.
Some writers say thai the Armstrongs were also accompanied by
the Irvines |of Stakeheuch] and the Littles (of Meikledale).

276 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Such is the introduction given in the ballad to the trag-
edy oi that June day. The men did not come " weil back
again." Buchanan hints that Armstrong failed to ob-
tain the King's pass for his security, but whether this
were so or not mattered little, for the King was bent on
the massacre. Tradition says that Armstrong's company
consisted o( 50 horse, and that they went unarmed ; and
the failure to provide himself with a pass only shows the
more clearly that he had accepted the King's letter in
absolute good faith. The story of the discussion between
the King and Johnie Armstrong is powerfully suggestive
of the fable of the Wolf and the Lamb : neither to reason
nor pleading would the King hearken, and at last Johnie
exclaims : —

" To seik het water beneth eauld yce,
Surely it is a great folie —
I haif" askit grace at a graceless face
Rut there is naue for my men and me !"

" Had I my horse and harness gude,
And ryding as I wont to be,
It sould haif bene tald this hundred yeir
The meiting of my King- and me !"

" Fat-eweil ! my bonny Gilnock Hall

Quhair on Esk syde thou standest stout !
Gif I had leived but seven yeirs inair,
I wald haif gilt thee round about."

"John murdered was at Carlinrig,
And all his gallant companie ;
But Scotland's heart was never sae wae
To see sae mony brave men dee."

Armstrong and most of his company were hanged,
the trees upon Carlinrig serving as the gallows. There
is still a tradition in Ewesdale and Teviotdale that the
trees on which the executions were carried out withered
away. It is said that one of Armstrong's attendants
broke through the guard, and carried the news to Gil-
nockie.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 277

Probably nothing in the history of that century creat-
ed more consternation and indignation on the Borders
than this. Much of the bloodshed which happened in the
years following was ow ing to this " judicial murder." The

Borderers deeply resented the treachery and breach of
faith. The suggestion that Armstrong was betrayed by
ins brother is not accepted by serious historians. There
was no necessity for treachery by any of his clan : the
King had already provided sufficient for that day's pur-
pose. James himself seems, at length, to have seen the
dishonour of it, for not one word concerning the matter is
found in any of the State papers. The '4 trial " is not re-
corded, possibly Carlinrig was not a convenient place
for observing all the forms o( judicial procedure, — and
no mention is made or the hanging. Such a record is
scarcely required by the historian, for the story lives still
on the Borders, enshrined in the most famous of all the
ballads. There have arisen certain apologists who seek
to condone the murders by calling the Armstrongs
thieves, but it is impossible, even by such a charge, to
justify a deed so nefarious and treacherous as this.

One historian refers to Johnie Armstrong as him "who
keipit the Castell o( Langhame," and adds that there were
"with him four and twentie well-horsed men."* Johnie
Armstrong was not at that date keeper of Langholm
Castle, for he had resigned the lands of Langholm to
Lord Maxwell in the February of 1529. They came
n into the possession o( the Armstrongs in [558,
when Christie, of Barngleis, son of John, gave a bond o\
man-rent to Lord Maxwell in respect of them. Christie
ell resided at Barngleis, and delegated his duties at
Langholm Castle to his sons Archie, and Robert, his

Armstrong's History, p. 274

278 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

third son John meanwhile occupying Hollows Tower.
With Lord Maxwell, when he went to Stirling in 1585,
there were Christie Armstrong of Barngleis, Archie and
Robert Armstrong of Langholm Castle, and also Arm-
strongs from Potholm and Milnholm. After the murder
of Gilnockie in 1529 many of the Armstrongs sought
refuge in England, and served as mercenaries of the
Crown, but many remained in Eskdale.

Whatever one's opinion may be concerning Lord
Maxwell's attitude towards the murders at Carlinrig, it
is of interest to note the friendly relationship which was
still maintained between him and the descendants of
Gilnockie.

On the date of the above bond Sir John Maxwell of
Terregles grants a warrant to " my fameilar frend, Christie
Armstrang callitjhons Christie, to intromet with the haill
teyndes of the perroche of Stabillgortoun . . . the
said Christie payand tharfoir yeirly ay and quhill he be
dischargit, to me, my aris and assignais the sum of
viijlb good and usuale money of Scotland at Lames."

In 1562 Christie was appointed by a contract, dated
at Lochmaben, keeper of "the hous and place of Lang-
holme" until John, Lord Maxwell should be of " perfyct
age, . . . when he cumis to the handling of his
auin leving." In consideration thereof, Christie was to
have yearly " in tyme of peax the soum of xl pound,"
and in time of war a sum thought reasonable by "four
honest gentlemen." By the same contract Christie had to
have the " uptaikine of sic proffeittis as my Lord Max-
well haid within the cuntreis of Eskdale, Eusdale, and
Wauchhoipdale."

There is a record of a trial in 1605 m which appears
a number of Armstrongs " delaitit for taking airt and

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 279

pairt for the treasonable burning of the Mouse of Lang-
holme, and taking Herbert Maxwell of Cavense prisoner
and for the thieftious stealing oi certain nolt, horse,
sheep, gait and burning certain e coirnis pertaining to

the said Herbert, Alexander Bell in Eikeholme [i.e.
Arkinholm], William Bell in Gallosyde and George
Irving in Holmhead." The Armstrongs concerned in
these acts, which had occurred in 1 581, were: "Ingrie Arm-
strang, Enzieholm ; Archie Armstrang, the merchand in
the Hoilhouse ; Johnne Armstrang in the Hoilhouse ; Nini-
an Armstrang called Roweis Niniane, in the Murtholme ;
Cristie Armstrang cosine to the Gndeman of Langholme
(Johnne Armstrang)." Possibly the demonstration against
Herbert Maxwell o( Cavense was due to his having dis-
possessed the Armstrongs as keepers of Langholm Castle.
Scrope, in a letter to Burghley, of date 30th Sept., 1581,
refers to this incident as the " burning and spoiling about
the Langholme and taking prisoner Herbert Maxwell the
captain. The Earl of Morton, so terming himself, the
Warden, demands delivery of certain English Borderers
who were present and intends on Tuesday or Wednes-
day next to seek for the fugitives. "+ Scrope adds that
"James VI. and counsele are verie much offended with the
burning of Langeum in Euesdale . . . and keeping
the captain o( the same prisoner, being the Lord Maxwell
his lande, wherefore the said Lord Maxwell threateneth to
revenge yt with burnings in the maner in England."

Alter this trial sureties were required that "the said
Herbert Maxwell, his wife and bairn is, shall be harmless
and skaythless in their bodies, landis, and gudes and
geir, of the said John and Christie Armstrang, sonnes to

gholra Castle had been taken over by the Government, which
probably accounts for this use of the term "treasonable."

t Calendar of Border Papers, Vol. 1 , p. 7b.

2So LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Johnne Armstrang of Langholme, the said Johnne under
pane of ane thousand pundis and the said Christie under
pane of iive hundreth pundis."

Writing the same year to Burghley, Thos. Musgrave
gives some interesting facts concerning the Armstrongs:
"John Armstrong of the Caufield dwelleth on the Cawfeld
— not marryed in England.* Gorthe Armstrong of the
Bygams dwelleth on the Bygams and marryed Will of
Carl(i)lles daughter. All these are the Lord of Manger-
tons unckles or uncles sonnes at the furthest. The
Armstrongs of Langholme and their allys with England :
Creste Armstrong, goodman of Langholm Castell marryed
Robbye Grayme's sister called Robbe of the Field ; John
Armstrong of the Hollous married Walter Grayme's
sister of Netherby."

The Armstrongs of Enzieholm, and other places in upper
Eskdale, first came there in 1525, when Johnie Armstrong
of Gilnockie received from Lord Maxwell the gift of the
non-entry of the lands of Dalbeth, Shiel, and Dalblane, &c.
Their occupation seems to have continued until 1605, but
after this date no trace of them is found in upper Eskdale.

In Ewesdale the Armstrongs occupied Arkleton and
Sorby."*" The former was given, in 1537, to Ninian Arm-
strong by Robert, Lord Maxwell, and we believe that
the original charter is still in possession of the present
laird of Arkleton, W. Scott Elliot, Esquire.

Marriage with the daughters of the "broken-men" of the English
Border was, by a special Act of the Scots Parliament, forbidden to sub-
jects of Scotland, without the King's express licence given under the
Great Seal.

t The grandmother of Mr. Simon Irving, the present tenant, (the last
of several generations), of Langholm mill, was a daughter of the laird
who held Sorby when it was sold to the Duke of Buccleuch about the
end of the eighteenth century.

In Ewes churchyard there is a stone recording the death of Thomas
Armstrong of Sorby, who died 14 May, 1 761 , aged 81 years, and also of
William, his son, who died 31 July, 1782, aged 72.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 281

In 152S Lord Home had granted to Ninian and David
Armstrong, in consideration o( their bond o( man-rent,
the lands oi~ the 4i LJvyr [Over] parrochin oi~ Ewisdale."
Probably both o( these grants relate to Arkleton. In
1535 David Armstrong received from the King a charter
of the lands oi Park, now called The Bush, in Ewesdale,
which had belonged before to Robert, Lord Maxwell. In
1607 Andrew Armstrong was in Kirktoun and Thomas
Armstrong in Glendovane. Both were put to the horn
and denounced as rebels for not restoring certain teinds
to Lord I Iome.

Frequent reference has been made to the Armstrongs
of Wanchopedale. Their stronghold was at Calfield, some-
times called Calfhill. In some of the documents Calfield,
like Dumfedling, is entitled a Tennendrie. In the chart-
er oi~ Langholm given to the Earl of Nithsdale in 162 1,
to which detailed reference will be made later, "Calfield
with its mill" is mentioned. The reference is probably
to a mill on the Becks Burn and not to that at Earshaw
mentioned on page 190. That there were more mills than
one in Wauchope is seen from the Tack of Wauchope-
llale to Robert, Lord Maxwell, in 1526, in which occur
the words tk with the mylnis, fortalice, and fischeing
oi the samin." Calfield therefore, it will be seen, was
a place of no small importance. Here they occupied a
position dominating the Water of Wauchope. In his
Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, Sir Walter Scott men-
tions Jock and Geordie of Calfield as well as Archie, the
hero o( a ballad entitled Archie o' Ca'field, which cele-
brates the forcible rescue of Archie from Dumfries jail.
There is little in the Calfield ballad of interest to
Eskdale people, as its events seem to have happened in
1 "e\ iotdale.

282 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

There were other members of the clan in Wauchope
besides those of Cal field, from whom they had probably
descended. Until within living memory there were Arm-
strongs in Bloughburnfoot and in the Grains,* a farm
which, at the beginning of the nineteenth century, stood
a little to the north-west of Wauchope School-house.

Some cynic has remarked that the history of the noble
families of the Borders, during the fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries, can best be read in Pitcairn's Criminal Trials.
The witticism may be also applied to the history of the
Armstrongs of Eskdale and Liddesdale, but the clan
did not confine its energies or abilities to cattle-stealing
and fire-raising. Surely, however, one of the quaintest
chapters of their record is that relating to Archie Arm-
strong, who was Court fool in the reigns of James VI.
and Charles I. Most of the Stuart Kings demanded a
considerable amount of entertainment of one kind or
another. When James IV. made his famous Raid of
Eskdale in 1504 he was accompanied by jesters,
musicians, and morris -dancers, and some expense
was incurred by the carriage of his instruments of
music into Eskdale ; and when James V. went to
hunt in Meggatdale, he too took his musicians and
tricksters with him. But there is certainly some humour
in the idea of an Armstrong of that Ilk, beguiling, by
his tomfoolery, the slow hours for the son and grandson
of that merry monarch who "efter the hunting" mur-
dered Johnie Armstrong of Gilnockie !

Archie is said to have been one of the Armstrongs of

Mention may he permitted of the fact that from the Armstrong's of
the Grains and Bloughburnfoot (who were closely related) the present
writers are descended in the female line. An account has been orally
handed down in the family that an Armstrong' lived in the Grains at the
date of the Gonial Blast, in 1794, the disasters of which he experienced
very severely.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 283

the Stubholm, probably a son o( Richie, and to have been
himself addicted to the fashionable pursuit of freeboot-
ing. The story o( the sheep and the Cradle is possibly
only a legend, but if true it may have established Archie's
claim to be a humourist. When pursued on on^ of his
sheep-stealing expeditions, Archie, it is said, managed to
get home to Stubholm, where he quietly dropped the
sheep into the child's cradle. When the Warden's
men arrived, he was sitting composedly at the ingle-
nook, apparently rocking the baby to sleep. When
accused of the theft, Archie is said to have answered : —

" It' ere I did sae fause a teat

As thin my neighbour's faulds,

M.iv I be doomed the flesh to eat
This very cradle haulds !"

Search, however, revealed Archie's clever deceit, and he
was marched off to Jedburgh where King James was
then holding a Court. Sentence of death was passed,
but even then Archie's mother-wit did not desert him.
He asked to be permitted to read the Bible through be-
fore he suffered the penalty of his misdeeds. The King
granted this, whereupon Archie exclaimed, "Then deil
tak me gin I read a word o't as lang as my een are
open!" The King was struck with the originality of the
youth, and at once took him into his service as Jester.

The Court fool was, of course, a prominent figure at
the royal banquets. " The guests," we read, 44 made him
their butt, and he repaid their ridicule in his own fashion,
with impunity and applause. To the Sovereign his
society was almost indispensable."

When King James sent his heir to Spain, a visit which
«n the popular mind was fraught with peril, Archie
seemed to grasp the possibilities of the situation very
neatly : —

284 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

" I must change caps with your Majesty," he said.

li Why?" inquired the King, with some astonishment.

" Why !" replied Archie, u who sent the Prince into
Spain?"

44 But supposing," pleaded James, "that the Prince
comes safely back again?"

"Why, in that case," said Archie, "I will take my
cap from my head and send it to the King of Spain!"*

In the British Museum there is a scarce and curious
pamphlet entitled Archie's Dream, which contains some
account of the antagonism between Archbishop Laud and
Archie Armstrong.

The Jester lost his position at the Court of Charles I.
through having incurred the anger of the Archbishop.
This quarrel provoked much amusement at Court, though
Laud himself does not seem to have enjoyed it. The
story goes that on one occasion Archie asked permission
to say grace at a dinner at which Laud was present, and
the request was granted. " Great praise be to God,"
he said, "and little laud to the devil !"

On another occasion, during the commotion caused
by the attempts of Charles and Laud to introduce
Episcopacy into Scotland, Archie, who sympathised
strongly with the Presbyterians, encountering the
Archbishop on his way to the Council chamber, re-
marked: "Ah, who's fool now?" This sneer is said
to have so enraged Laud that he made formal com-
plaint to the King, and Archie Armstrong of the Stub-
holm was dismissed from his post as Jester at the
English Court. The order is dated Whitehall, nth
March, 1637, and is to the effect " that Archibald
Armstrong, the King's fool, for certain scandalous

* Memoirs of the Court of England, by J. H. Jesse, Vol. I., p. 384.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 285

words of a high nature, spoken by him against the Lord
Archbishop o( Canterbury, . . . shall have his coat
pulled over his head and be discharged oi the King's ser-
vice and banished the Court. . . ." Doubtless this
deprivation was a severe blow to Archie and his kins-
men, and it would, probably, be discussed at the I lollows,
and at Sorbv, and at Calfield, and at Stubholm, with con-
siderable warmth. But it did not entirely deprive Archie
of his powers o\ wit. One writer mentions falling in with
him a week after his dismissal. ik I met Archie," he says,
"at the Abbey, all in black'. Alas! poor fool, thought
I, he mourns for his country. I asked him about his
coat. ' Oh,' quoth he, 'my Lord of Canterbury hath taken
it from me, because either he or some of the Scots
Bishops may have the use of it themselves, but he hath
given me a black coat for it ; and now I may speak what
I please, so it be not against the prelates, for this coat
hath a greater privilege than the other had.'"

Whilst Archie was in the King's service he received
the freedom of the city of Aberdeen. He lived to hear
not onlv of the death of Laud but also of the beheading
oi King Charles. He returned to Eskdale and died in
1O72, being buried at Arthuret. Probably it is owing to
this that several writerst have concluded that Arthuret was
also the place of his birth. " It appears by the Strafford
Papers, and also by the following lines attached to the
portrait which is prefixed to his Jests, that Archie had
contrived to make his fortune before he was disgraced: —

"Archie, by King's and Princes graced o\' late,
Jested himself into a fair estate,
And in this book doth to his friends commend,

His jeers, taunts, tales, which no man can offend. "$

The coat and cap were the symbols of the Jester's office,
t See Hutchinson's History of Cumberland, &c.
X Memoirs of the Court of England , Vol. I., p. 389.

286 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

THE ELLIOTS.

The Elliots, like their allies, the Armstrongs, were a
Liddesdale cian. It is said that they came into Liddes-
dale to join the Douglases when the power of that
famous House was on the wane, but this has not been
definitely established. They did not at any time rival
the Armstrongs in numerical strength or importance,
but they were generally found acting in co-operation with
them, and also with other smaller clans. These alliances
gave the Elliots a position out of all proportion to their
numbers. As we have seen, they formed part of the
" gallant companie" which so gaily set out from Gil-
nockie on that June morning of 1529.

"Armstrong's and Elliots ! you know where they were bred,

Above the dancing" mountain burns, among- the misty scaurs,
And through their veins, these Border lads, the raiding blood runs red,
The blood that's out before the dawn, and home behind the stars. "t

In the list of assurances taken in 1544 by Lord Whar-
ton, after he had so completely subdued Annandale,
Eskdale, and Nithsdale, the Elliots, to the number of 74,
are grouped with the Armstrongs and Nixons from
" Liddesdell and the Eatable landes." But in a subse-
quent list of " Scotesmen bound and sworne to serve
the Kinges majestie," the Elliots are grouped with the
Simpsons of Liddesdale to the number of 80. The in-
timate association of the Elliots and the Armstrongs is
humourously illustrated by a story of Armstrong of
Sorby. When on circuit, the Lords of Justiciary passed
down Ewesdale, and Sorby was accustomed to show
them hospitality, by what was epigrammatically called
''drawing the bottle." On the occasion when Lord
Karnes went on circuit for the first time as Advocate-

t W. H. Ogilvie in The Border Magazine.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 287

Depute, Sorby noticed him and enquired o\~ Sir Gilbert
Elliot, Whae that lang black dour-looking ehiel was
they had wi' them? "That," jocosely replied Sir Gil-
bert, "is a man come to hang a' the Armstrongs."
" Then," observed Sorby, drily and significantly, "it's
high time the Elliots were riding I"

The general alliance between the Elliots and the Arm-
Strongs, however, did not always bind the entire clan,
tor in 1579 a feud arose between them and the Armstrongs
of Ewesdale. These would probably be the Arkleton
Armstrongs, and possibly those o( Park. Hut the feud
was not 4t deadly," nor o( long duration, and was con-
fined to the sections of the two clans in Ewesdale only.

The name Elliot, which in Eskdale is still pronounced
as it was frequently spelt in the fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries, "Eliot," was found in the north of England at
.111 early date, but it was the early part oi the fifteenth
Century before it was common in Liddesdale. In 1549
one Robert Elliot was captain of the Hermitage. The
chief of the clan was the laird of Redheuch, and in 1573
Robin Elliot of Redheuch is mentioned as chief.
Braidlie and Larriston were also Elliot strongholds, and
towards the end of the sixteenth century the clan num-
bered 800 to 1000 men. In 1563 " Robert Eliot of Reid-
houcht, and Martene Eliot of Braidlie," signed a bond
to enter one of their clan, Gawin Eliot of Ramsygell,
a prisoner to Sir Thomas Ker of Eerniehirst.

It was in honour of Jock Elliot o( Larriston that James
Hogg wrote that stirring song, Lock the door, Larris-
ton, Lion of Liddesdale. By reference to the Rent-roll
ot Crown lands of 1541, some idea can be obtained of
the great extent of the lands tenanted in Liddesdale by
the Elliots. It was probably from on^ of these Liddes-

288 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

dale brandies that the Elliots came into Ewesdale. The
members of the clan who went with Gilnockie to Carlin-
rig would be those of upper Ewesdale, from Arkleton,
which was in the possession of the Elliots by the be-
ginning of the seventeenth century. The clan does not
seem to have established itself at any time in the lower
part of Eskdale.

An interesting bond of connection between Eskdale
and the Liddesdale Elliots comes through the Elliots of
Midlem Mill, from whom the Elliots of Minto are de-
scended. The last of the name to hold Midlem Mill was
Robert Elliot, who became Chamberlain to the Duke of
Buccleuch at Branxholme. In 1726 his daughter Mag-
dalen was married at Langholm Castle to James Pasley
of Craig, in Westerkirk, and they had eleven children all
of whom reached maturity. Their fifth son Thomas was
created a baronet for his services on that " glorious first
of June," in that great naval victory over the French off
Ushant, in 1794. Sir Thomas Pasley's sister Helen
married Matthew Little, baron-bailie of Langholm, and
their daughter Helen married her cousin, Gilbert Mal-
colm, son of George Malcolm of Douglen. From these
three families, the Malc©lms, Pasleys, and Littles, came
not only the famous "Four Knights of Eskdale," but
other four, making in all eight who received the honour
of knighthood.

As freebooters, the Elliots of Liddesdale obtained a no-
toriety equal to that of the Armstrongs themselves. Nor
did they exercise any fastidious discrimination as to what
they seized. On page 348 of Volume I. of the Calendar
of Border Papers there is given an inventory of the booty
secured by a number of "Liddesdale limmers"led by
John Elliot of Heughehouse : "Six oxen, 6 kye, 4 young
nowte, ane horse 10/. ; a nag, 40.V. ; a sword, 13s. 4^. ;

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 289

a steil cap, io.v. ; a dagger and knives, 4.V. ; 2 spears,
dr. Sd. ; 2 dublets, 12.V. ; 2 pair oi breeches, Ss. ; a cloke,
<j, ; a jerkvne, 2x. bit. ; a womans kertle and a pair of
sleaves, \os. ; 9 kerchers, iSs. ; 7 railes, Js. ; 7 partletts,
-\. ; 5 pair of line(n) sheitis, 27.V. ; 2 coverletts, io.v. ;
2 lynne sheits, js. ; a purs and 6s. in monie ; a womans
purs and two silke rybbons, 2S. ; a windinge clothe, 6s. ;
a feather bed, Ss. ; a cawdron, 13.V. 4^/. ; a panne, 2s. 6d. ;
4 bonde of hempe, 2.s\ Sd. ; a pair of woollcards, 20^/. ;
4 childrens coates, Ss. ; 3 sherts, 3J.

The Elliots of Kwesdale and the Scotts (probably of
1 [owpaslet) were at feud in the year 1565. In pursuance of
this tend it seems that the Elliots had attacked the Scotts
and carried off a great quantity of plunder. The Scotts
quickly retaliated. They mustered all their forces and set
oi\ in pursuit of the Elliots, who enticed them into Ewes-
dale. They had reached Ewes-doors, the narrow pass
which, skirting the Wisp, branches off in a north-westerly
direction from the foot of Mosspaul Burn into Teviotdale,
when some 400 Elliots and supporters, who had been
lying in ambush, suddenly appeared. The pass, which
shows not a few traces of ancient earth fortifications, is nar-
row and easily defended. In the sharp encounter which
ensued the Scotts were taken completely by surprise,
and being considerably inferior in numbers they were
beavily defeated. A number of them was slain and
sixty were taken prisoners. It is said that not only were
the Elliots highly delighted with this success, and by the
gratification of their feelings of revenge, but that they
were highly commended and rewarded by the Govern-
ment for their defeat of the powerful Scotts.

1 here is a record in the State Papers of a raid by
Johnie Elliot of Copshaw into Wauchope. He took

290 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

with him about ioo men, and they went in open day —
a serious aggravation of the offence, according to Border
law. By this raid the Elliots secured eighty cows and
oxen, one hundred sheep, and twelve horses. Whether
this was Wauchope in Eskdale, or the valley of the same
name on Rule Water, does not seem clear. Probably
it was the latter.

The clan of Elliot branched off into a considerable num-
ber of families of repute, the principal being those of Stobbs
and Minto. Not a few members of the clan settled in
Eskdale after the cessation of- the Border raids, and in
some instances they have occupied as tenants for several
generations, lands held from the Duke of Buccleuch. In
1679 Walter Elliot, was tenant of Calfield, and also had
sett to him the farms of Glencorf, Tanabie, Water Grains,
and Cleuchfoot, and in 1793 there was an Elliot in Yetby re,
the ancestor, we believe, of of the Elliots of Westwater.

It is from the Redheuch stock that the Elliots of Ark-
leton are descended. In Unthank churchyard are the
graves of the Elliots of Millburnholm, the Dandie Din-
mont family of Sir Walter Scott's Guy Manner ing.

THE LITTLES.

The Littles formed one of the small clans of Eskdale,
and inhabited part of Ewesdale and part of Westerkirk,
easy access being obtained from the one to the other
through Sorby Hass, and they were also found in Wauc-
hopedale.

A Nicol Litil is mentioned in 1398 as one of the
sureties for the Earl of Douglas, who at that date was
Warden of the West March. In 1426 James I. confirm-
ed a grant which had been made by Robert, Duke of
Albany, of the lands of kt Mikkledale of Kirktoun " in

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 291

favour of l< his beloved and faithful Simon Lytil." The
grant comprised not only Meikledale and Kirktoun, but
also Sorby, and there were also included certain lands
which had belonged to the Frasers of Arkleton, viz. :
Senbigil, Malnarlande, Pullis, "lyand in the barony of
Mallarknok within the Sheriffdom o( Drumfres,"* but
they do not appear to have been places in Ewesdale,
which at that date was within the Sheriffdom of Rox-
burgh. Simon Lytil o( Meikledale was the head of the
clan and he continued in possession of the estates for two
hundred years. The clan was never a large one. Their
name is not mentioned in the list of headsmen under
English assurance in 1547, though, curiously enough in
the summary of dales, Ewesdale is included with 364
men, whilst it does not once appear in the detailed list.
In the list ol 1553 of clans who were under oath to
the English King, the Lytles are grouped with the
" B itysonnes, Thompsons, and Glendonynges," and the
total number of men is returned as 304, most of whom
were doubtless Beatties and Thomsons. There seems
to have been a working alliance between these two clans
and the Littles. As will be seen later, they were fre-
quently associated in committing raids on both sides of
the Border.

The Littles of Eskdale and Wauchopedale were pro-
bably hranches of the Ewesdale family, and acknow-
ledged the headship of the laird of Meikledale. When,
in 1532, James V. granted to Robert, Lord Maxwell, the
superiority of the lands in Eskdale, claims were lodged
by the Beatties, Thomsons, and Littles, in respect of
certain lands, such as Vetbyre, Enzieholm, Lyneholm, and

Vrrostrong's History, p. 164.

292 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Shiel. The Littles seem to have been then located in the
lower part of Westerkirk parish. In 1679 William,
Thomas, and John Little were joint tenants under the
Duke of Buccleuch, with Walter Thompson and Wil-
liam Revve, of Shiel and Bankhead, and at the same
date one Matthew Little was a tenant in Bombie.

In Wauchopedale, the seat of the Littles was at Big-
holms, but the number of this branch of the clan must
have been small. Subjoined is a copy of a document
relating to this Bigholms family. It is one of the few
references to the Littles of Wauchope which we have
noticed.* In 1679 the farm o( Neishill, near to Calfield,
was let jointly to John Hislop+ and Andrew Little.

During the eighteenth century, the Littles were per-
haps the most prominent family in Langholm. Early in
the century one John Little* practised in Langholm as a

* " Apud Halyrudhous, 19 Novr. 1628. Rex — cum consensu Joannts
Comitis de Mar, Domini Erskene et Garioch, Thesaurarii, computorum
Rotulatoris, collectors novarumque augmentationum Thesaurarii, dedit
literas remissionis Thome Grahame in Big-holmes, vocato 'de Schaw,'
et Robkrto LlTiLL ibidem, — pro cede Joannis Grahame in terris de
Grainis, mense. Jun. aut eocirca."

TRANSLATION.

[At Holyroodhouse, 19 Nov. 1628. The King, with the consent of John,
Earl of Mar, Lord Erskine and Gareock, Treasurer, Enroller [and] Col-
lector of Accounts, and Treasurer of the new augmentations, granted
letters of pardon to Thomas Grahame in Bigholms, styled "of Shaw,"
and to Robert Little of the same, for the slaughter of John Grahame in
the lands of Grains in the month of June or thereabouts (1620).]

This association of the Littles and Grahames in Wauchope is inte-
resting when noticed in relation to a record in the Books of Adjournal
of the Justiciary Office, of date Dumfries, 13 August, 1504 : "John Litill
convicted of art and part of the cruel slaughter of the late Thomas
Moffet and being at the King's horn for the same slaughter and for art
and part for supplying and assisting the rebels of Eskdale and for the
theft and concealing the sheep of Robert Grahame of Gillisbe, hanged."

t Our researches into family history lead us to the conclusion that this
John Hislop was the father of Andrew Hislop, the Martyr of the
Covenanting period.

X An antique desk, which at one time belonged to John Little, and
would therefore be the repository of many of the family secrets of Lang-
holm, is now in the possession of Mr. Arthur Bell, of Hillside. It came
into the possession of the Littles of Old Carlesgill, and from them passed
to the Bells of the Walk-mill of Langholm, from whom it came to its
present owner.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 293

writer, and also carried on a banking business. In 1746
there was horn to him a son who ultimately succeeded
him, and became known in Langholm and district as
Laird Little. He married Miss Mary Maxwell of Broom-
holm, and their residence was at Rosevale House. It
wis from Laird Little that "The Laird's Entry" received
its name. He met with an untimely death by being
drowned in the Esk. He had been riding, and took his
horse down to the river. The night being very dark he
was unable to see that it was in flood, and both horse
and rider were swept away at the place now known as
St. Mary's Stream.

When, by the order of Court, the Commonty of Lang-
holm was divided in 1759, this John Little, together with
Simon Little in Nittyholm, and Archibald Little, feuar
in Langholm, was in possession of three of the ten merk-
lands of Langholm, having the year before conveyed one
other merk-land to John Maxwell of Broomholm, pre-
sumably his father-in-law.

In 1768 Matthew Little was appointed by William
Ogilvie, Chamberlain to Henry, Duke of Buccleuch, to
be his Chamberlain -depute and baron -bailie for the
parishes of Canonby, Langholm, Castleton, Ewes, West-
erkirk, and Eskdalemuir. His surety and cautioner on
this appointment was George Malcolm of Douglen, who,
as we have seen, was his brother-in-law. Twelve years
later Matthew Little received a factorship, or, as it is styled
in the document, a "factory," from the Duke himself, auth-
orizing him to collect the revenues of Westerkirk, which
had accrued to the Duke as patron of the parish in the
vacancy between the translation of the minister, the Rev.
Mr. John Scotland, late minister of that parish, to the

294 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

parish o( Linlithgow, and the induction of his successor,
the Rev. Mr. William Little.*

Matthew Little, holding the important office of baron-
bailie, was one of the most influential men in Eskdale.
He became known, and is still spoken of, as Bailie Little.
For a long period he exercised, both wisely and well, his
great influence in Langholm, and was regarded by the
townsfolk with pride and affection. In addition to the
administration and accounting of the Buccleuch estates,
there was laid upon him by this instrument of ''factory"
the duty of holding baron's courts, a feudal custom and
right which had survived to the Duke, even after the
passing of the Heritable Jurisdictions Act of 1747. James,
son of Bailie Little, received the honour of knighthood,
one of the eight knights above mentioned, and was also a
Knight of the most Illustrious Spanish Order of Charles
the Third, sacred to Virtue and Merit.

A considerable number of the descendants of the clan
Little is still living in Eskdale.

THE BEATTISONS.t

That the Beattison clan was one of some importance
in Eskdale, even before the Battle of Arkinholm in
1455, is evidenced by the fact that they are grouped
along with the Scotts, Glendinnings, Maxwells, and
Carlyles, as taking a considerable share in the over-
throw of the Black Douglas on that fatal field. As a

Matthew Little's own copies of these and several other similar doc-
ument.*) are in possession of the writers. The first is witnessed by
William Scott, in Greenhead of Langholm, and David Brown, writer, in
Melrose. The second, which seems to be the original document, is
signed by the Duke (who spells his name " Buecleugh ") and is wit-
nessed by James Edgar, collector of customs at Leith, and John Ruther-
ford of Edgerstone.

t The name is variously spelt : Beattison, Batison, Baty, Batie, Baty-
sonne, &.c.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 295

reward for their services that clay, the Beattisons were
given certain lands in Eskdale as their share in the
scramble for spoils which occurred during the years
immediately following the battle. In [458 John Beatti-
son was given, by James II., a grant of two and
a half of the merk-lands of Dalbeth.* It is affirmed
by some authorities that this was the territory to take
possession of which Lord Maxwell came into Eskdale in
1532, when, according" to Sir Walter Scott, the descend-
ants of John Beattison so forcibly resisted Maxwell's
claim that he was glad to escape to Branxholme, there to
sell his rights to Walter Scott of Buccleuch. Such a
supposition, as we have already shown, is erroneous,
seeing that in 1525 the lands of Dalbeth were granted
by Maxwell to John Armstrong, under a bond of man-rent.
To Nicholas Beattison the brother of John, there was
also given, two days later, a similar grant. This charter, it
is curious to note, professes to be signed and witnessed on
the same day as the charter given to John, yet, though they
are numbered consecutively in the Great Seal Register,
the first is dated October 20, and the second October 22.
In the first, the lands are described as in the barony of
Westir Ker; in the second, as in that of Westerker.
The grants were made as a suitable acknowledgment of
the services of these brothers at Arkinholm, "in the
slaying and taking of our rebels the late Archibald and
1 lugh of Douglas," and they were also given as compen-
sation tor the slaughter of their brother by the Douglases,
which occurred the night before the battle. A third
brother, Robert Beattison, also fought at Arkinholm,
d\\d to him was given a grant of two merk-lands in Whit-
shiels.

* In the charter it is called " Daweth."

296 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The Beattisons seem to have been given, or to have ac-
quired during the second half of the fifteenth century,
a much larger stretch of territory in Eskdalemuir than
the charters of 1458 conveyed. We mentioned on page
226 that certain of the lands given to Robert, Lord Max-
well, in 1532, were claimed by Baties, viz., Enzieholm,
Lyneholm, and Erschewood. The chief of the clan
is said to have lived at the Score,* and in 1584 there
were members of the clan in Black Esk, in Whis-
gills, and in Corse, and in 1605 there were Beattisons in
Byken. This summary conveys only a small idea of the
strength of the clan in Eskdale in the sixteenth century,
and though Dr. Brown's list of their holdings cannot be
accepted as historically accurate, yet it is evident that a
considerable part of Eskdalemuir and Westerkirk must
at one time have been in their occupation. In 1544,
like the rest of the Border clans, the Beattisons came
under English assurance, as the result of Lord Wharton's
raids. In his list they are included with the Thomsons,
and the total number returned is 166, and an additional
number of 1 16 is given as under the headship of Sander
Batie, making a -total of 282. In 1553 the Beattisons
appear with the Glendinnings, Lytles, and Thomsons
under a similar assurance, and the total number is then
given as 304.

In 1504 James IV. organised his famous Raid of Esk-
dale, and on his way there he visited Dumfries to hold an
"ayre," or criminal court.1" At this court Nicholas Beatti-
son was called for his lands of Dalbeth, and not ucom-

* Called Skoire on Bleau's map of 1662. It was situated on the left
bank of the Esk a little to the north of Rennelburn.

f By an Act of his first Parliament the King- was expected to " ride
in proper personne about to all his aieris " for the " furth-putting of
justice." It was in pursuance of this enactment that he now came to
Dumfries.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 297

pearing" he was fined £10, as was also the laird of
Lymin [Lyneholm], who was also a Beattison. At the

same time one Adam Batie was convicted and hanged
for "art and part with the King's rebels at the horn,
being oi' Eskdale in their thefts and treasonable deeds
and favouring, supplying and assisting them in their
thefts."

During the days of raiding and reiving, the Beattisons
appear as bold, venturesome and, it must be added,
somewhat unscrupulous "riders." Like the Armstrongs
they were not greatly troubled by considerations, either
of patriotism or sentiment, and raided the Scottish Border,
on Lord Wharton's instructions, with a zest which was
not less than that which they displayed when harrying
the subjects of England.

Perhaps the most active period of raiding by the Beatti-
sons was from 1540 to 1550. Then the Borders were in
a state of great tumult and unrest. The power of the
central Scottish Government was not adequate to the
task of keeping order, and the barons were not greatly
concerned to stop the raids and the inter-clan fighting.
Large companies of the different clans made incursions
into England, and the Beattisons were generally well to
the front in these forays. Here is a short list, compiled
with the care of an accountant by Lord Wharton
himself, of those in which the Beattisons took an active
part : —

" The Batysons and Thomsons of Eskdaill have burnt a town
called Grange, with all the corn there and brought away nolt, and
other goods amounting to eche of them in their dividing 8s."

"The Batysons, Thomsons and Lytles of Esshdayle, Ewesdaill,
and Wacopdale burnt a town on the Water ot Dryff called Blen-
dallbush and brought away ib oxen and keyne, some naggs with
all the insight of the town.'1

"The Batysonnes, Thomsons and Litles, Scottishmen, burnt a
town upon the Water of Lyne and brought away as muche boulie
• is was to eche of them 10s."

298 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

After the notorious invasion by Lord Wharton in 1544,
the clans were brought to terms and received under Eng-
lish assurance, as already mentioned. The Beattisons
then turned upon their own countrymen, on Wharton's
orders, and burnt and raided in Scotland with as much
dash and daring as they had exhibited at the Water of
Lyne, showing indeed quite as much ardour under their
new allegiance as they had done under the old. Writing
to the Earl of Shrewsbury, Wharton says : —

" Advertising also your Lordship that by my command one
hundrethe of the Batysons of Eskdaill who with the rest of their
sin name and the Thomsons entered in bond and delyvered thare
pledge unto me in fourme, as I write to your Lordship therein, the
same night afore that meeting with Bukcleughe, brent a town
called Fastheughe of George Carr landes taking away all the in-
sight certaine naggs and fiftie nowte."

In another expedition initiated by Wharton, the Beatti-
sons attacked Branxholme and Mosshouse, and "smoked
very sore the towers,'' and slew many of the Scotts. In
another they "burned Old Melrose and overrun Buck-
leugh . . . and gaten gret substance of noult be-
sides shepe, horses and mares." Moreover, they did
not confine themselves to the Borders in their ravages
and forays, but ventured even into Edinburgh itself.
We read that the " Beatisons and Scottishmen of
Eskdaile wanne a tower of the captains of Edinburgh
Castle, called Burdlands, burnt all the roofs within the
walls and coming home took many oxen and shepe be-
sides 1 Scott slayn." Another account of this daring
raid mentions that the prey taken was "forty oxen and
kyen."

In 1569 many of the Border barons, landed men and
gentlemen o( the shires, as we have before mentioned,
combined against the "broken-men." Whether their
ardent professions of loyalty to the King, and their desire

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 299

for peace on the Borders, were quite sincere, may be
doubted, for some oi' the barons who subscribed the

declaration were not in their secret hearts such " inymeis
to all thevis inhabitants of the cuntreis of Liddisdail,
Eskdaill, Ewesdaill, and Annandaill " as they "profess-
it." But their declaration sounded well, though there is
not much evidence of steps being taken for the restora-
tion of order. When the Regent went to Hawick, in
October, 1569, "Hew Beattie callit Johnne the Braid
enterit plegeis to my Lord Regentis Grace for thame
selffis, thair sonnis, men, tenentis, servandis and haill
surname of Batesonis and als in name and on behalf of
the surnames of Thomson and Glendonyng, thair men
tenentis and servandis ; that they sail redresse all at-
temptattis agains England for tymes bigane and to cum,
and all Scottismen offendit to sen the Kingis coronation
at thair uttir power," &c*

The above pledges could be relieved by u David Batie,
brother to Hew Batie, Mungois Arthour Batie, Nicholl
Batie of the Schield, Nickoll Batie of Carnisgill, Johnne
Batie in the Yardis, Johnne Batie, son to Wat in the
Corse." In accordance with this arrangement, we find,
111 November, 1569, that David Batie was " placeit " in
the Castle o( St. Andrew's and Johnne Batie of Yards in
the Castle of Glasgow.

During the latter part of the sixteenth century, stren-
uous measures were adopted to suppress the lawlessness
on the Borders, and some effect was produced. In 1584
many o( the clans gave assurances of good conduct at
Hermitage Castle, and among these occurs the name of
David Batie of the Black Esk. But this assurance on
Ins part did not bind other members of the clan, for only

* Privy Council Records, Vol. II., p. 42.

3oo LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

three years later John Beattison, called John of the Score,
fohn Armstrong, called the Laird's Jock, and four other
Armstrongs with 500 men ran a day foray — which was
an aggravated offence against the Laws of the Marches
— and 4< carried off 600 kye, 600 sheep, 35 prisoners and
insight worth £4.0 sterling."

The relationship existing between the Beattisons and
Scotts has always been one of great interest in Eskdale,
partly, no doubt, because of the glamour of romance thrown
upon it by Sir Walter Scott in the charming but mythical
tale of the " bonnie white horse." About the year 1590 a
complaint was entered by Sir Walter Scott of Branxholme
"that Johnne Batison in the Scoir, Nickie Batisonn his
son, David and Archibald Baitiesonnis his brothers, all
dwelling in Eskdale, reft from Somerville furth of the
lands of Meineinchald, 26 cows and oxen 2 horses and
ouq staig ; and from Mowbray 10 cows and oxen and 1
mare with the plenishment of his house worth 100 merks.
Being called as bailie of Melrois* to answer for the Bati-
son ns he [i.e. Sir Walter Scott] declares that not he but
Lord Maxwell is answerable. Moreover, that though he,
the complainer, is bailie of the Abbey of Melrose yet the
inhabitants of Eskdale never have acknowledged him in
the said office, but on the contrary have committed 'divers
herships and oppressions upon him and his servants for
which there is deadly feud now standing more especially
between the said Sir Walter and the Batiesons of whome
the said persons viz. John Batieson of the Scoir, etc. are
principalis.' "+

This extract, the latter part of which is taken from the
Privy Council Registers , is interesting as showing not only

* See p. 241.
+ Story of the Surname of Beat son, p. 10.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 301

the state of tension between the two clans, but also as an
indication of how there arose that conflict of title as to lands
in Eskdale, which was revealed before the Commission
of 1679. And it shows further, how slight was the autho-
rity of the Scotts oi~ Buccleuch in Eskdale towards the
end of the sixteenth century.

In 1598 special proclamation was made by the King,
with the advice of his Council, concerning the " broken
men" of the Borders. A commission of "eight honest
gentlemen " was set up to try the offences committed by
the Armstrongs, Beattisons, Irvings, and Johnstones.
To these clans the King offered his clemency " giff
they sail make full redress for their evil deeds," but if,
as he had been informed, they should resort to deceit and
trickery, then no mercy would be shown them — "they
sail be hangit but* mercy or favour."

The Beattisons did not rush to accept these terms, and
very soon afterwards a charge was made against certain
oi the clan, to wit, John Batie of Tanlaw Hill, David
Batie his brother, Alic Batie of Black Esk, Rowie Batie,
Andro Batie alias " Steenie Home," Adam Batie of the
Yards, Johnne Batie of Rennelburn, Cristie Batie of
Bankhead, John Batie of the Score, and Archie Batie his
brother, that they had refused to pay to Lord Maxwell
"his mailles, fermes, and duties owing to him by them
forth of the Lordships of Eskdaill, Ewisdaill, &c." For
this refusal they were denounced as rebels. Other
charges, some of them almost venerable with age, were
formulated against the Beattisons. Several were hanged,
including John of the Score, their reputed chief, and the
Clan generally was broken up. u Let justice be done to
the memory of these men. They were no common

* without.

302 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

cattle-reivers ; they came of an old race of warlike men,
an J were probably the direct lineal descendants of the
John Beatison who helped James II. to the Scottish
Crown."

Nevertheless, the Beattisons were not yet wholly driven
out of Eskdale. The clan truly was broken, but many
of its individual members remained. Even the King
seems to have partially relented of his severity towards
them, for in 1605 he granted1" to Hugo Batye de Boykyne
certain lands in the parish of Westerker, which lands
Hugo sold in 1610 to Walter Scott of Tushielaw.

This possession of the lands of Byken by Hugo Beatti-
son is the subject of a ballad by William Park, the Esk-
dale poet, entitled Burn and Byken.% The ballad recites
the story of a duel which, tradition says, was fought be-
tween the lairds of Burn and Byken, both of which places
are in the parish of Westerkirk. The former, the author
remarks in a prefatory note, belonged to the Beattison
clan, and that a great number of that name then (1833) re-
sided in Eskdale. He says further that "A large stone,
at a pass in the range of hills which separates Eskdale
from Wauchopedale, and just at the point where the farm
of Craig and those of Calfield and Cleuchfoot meet, is
supposed to mark the spot where the rivals fought and
fell." The duel, it is said, was followed by a lawsuit be-
tween the families which terminated in the ruin of both

* Story of the Surname of Be at son, p. 12.

t Ibid. p. 17.

X The Vale of Esk, p. 74.

It is interesting to note that the poet himself was a descendant of the

Beatties of Burn. His father's mother was Grizel Beattie, daughter of

William Beattie of Airswood, who was the third son of William Beattie

of the Lyneholm who died in 1693 aged 80 years and was a son of

Beattie of Burn, one of the reputed combatants in the duel. The wife

of William Beattie of Lyneholm, who was known as Will o' Burn, was

Grizel Porteus of Hackshaw.

OTHKK ESKDALE CLANS. 303

and the alienation o( their estates.*

Some of the gravestones in Westerkirk, Canonby, and
Ewes churchyard, and also in that of Carruthers, bear the
arms of the Beattison clan, and these sculptured arms are
similar to those of the different families of Beattie, or its
Synonyms, found in most of the churchyards o( the
Borders. In virtually all of the arms, the cross-keys
and the " draught-board " design are found, but it does not
necessarily follow that both or either of these indicates
an armorial bearing. The cross-keys are found in many
ecclesiastical coats, and are the emblems of St. Peter.
In mediaeval times they were a common sign of inns
attached to religious houses. A local illustration of this
is the Cross-keys hostelry in Canonby, a name which
doubtless came down from the days of the old Priory.

On the break up of the Beattison clan in 1599 many of
its name migrated into Kirkcudbright, and others into
different parts of Scotland, and England. With these
migrations there came modifications of the name Beatti-
son. In Eskdale it changed to Beattie, in other places
to Bateson, Baty, and other forms.

Of the name of Beattie there are still residing in Esk-
dale several descendants of the Beattisons of Dalbeth.
One is Thomas Beattie, Esq., laird of Davington. As
we have shown, the lairdship o^ Davington was in the
ession of the Scotts of the Howpaslet branch, known,
owing to a popular geographical idea, as the <4 Scotts of
Ewesdale." About the year 1784, through some dispute
about the succession of the Davington estate, it was sold

Like many another, this tradition is not corroborated by historical
research. It is probably an incorrect reminiscence of a duel which was
I between Walter* Scott, brother of Sir Robert Scott of Thirle-
stane, and John Scott, son of the Walter Scott of Tushielaw (who had
Purchased Byken from Hugo Batye in 1610), of which Robert Batie ot
Wud-Kerrick was an eye witness. — ( Acts of Privy Council, 1610).

304 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

by order of the Court of Session, and was purchased by
James Beattie, son of John Beattie of Dalbeth, of whom
the present laird of Davington is a lineal descendant.

One of a list o( " plegeis " of 28th October, 1578, is
"Johnne Batie of Daventoun, in the custody and keep-
ing of David Boiswall of Balmuto." So that this pur-
chase of 1784 brought about a return of the Beatties
to Davington after a lapse of 200 years.

It is a matter of historic interest to note that Wat-
Carrick is also in the possession of a descendant of the
Beatties.

Another link with the Beattison clan, though with the
section of it that migrated into Northumberland when
the final dispersion occurred, is the ownership of the
estates of Meikledale, in Ewes, by Miss Beattie of
Cneve, whose ancestor, Mr. Beattie, laird of Meikledale,
is said to have supplied Sir Walter Scott with much of
the information concerning Eskdale given in his Anti-
quities of the Scottish Border, and also with many of the
tales and traditions introduced into his Minstrelsy and
Lay of the Last Minstrel.

THE THOMSONS.

The Thomsons were a small clan occupying lands in
upper Eskdale. Where their lands were or who was
chief of the clan is not definitely known. The clan seems
to have obeyed the call of the Beattisons of the Score, and,
as already mentioned, generally acted with them, sharing
the fruits of their many raids and apparently, too, their
reverses and punishments.

OTHKR ESKDALE CLANS. 305

THE [RVINGS.

The Irvings, who claim descent from a line of Scot-
tish Kings, were a large and powerful clan on the
Horders. At one time, far back probably in the early
days of the Saxon period, the Irvings are said by the
historian of the clan to have possessed all the lands be-
tween the Eskand the Nith. They were originally an Ayr-
shire sept, and, along with other Scots tribes, came to the
Borders with Duncan, when he assumed the government
of the lowlands, as Karl of Cumbria. It is interesting to
note that their place-names in Ayrshire are the same
.is those which afterwards came to be associated with the
clan in Dumfriesshire, viz., Bonshaw, Bridekirk, Corse-
hill, Langshaw, and Balgray. The principal seat of
the chief of the clan was Bonshaw Tower, on the Kirtle,
and here the present chieftain, Col. John Beaufin Irving,
still resides.

But the first settlement of the Irvings* in Dumfries-
shire was undoubtedly in Eskdale. One Dr. Christopher
Irvin, or as he styles himself in Latin, " Christopherus
Krvinus, abs Bon Bosco," who was a writer of history in the
reign of Charles II., published in Edinburgh in the year
a volume entitled Historicce Scoticce Nomenclatura,
in which he has the following : — " Irvinus : the water of
Irvine riseth above Loudon Hill, watereth New Millns,
visiteth Kilmarnock and falleth into the Firth of Clyde
it the town of Irvine, and divideth Kyle from Cunning-
ham. There is a Castle of the same name between White

with most of the Border clans the spelling of their name varies

greatly. Some of its most frequenl variants are : Irvine, Urwen, Irwin,

tod Erwen. Thirty-five different ways of spelling the name are quoted

J Mi. A. Bruce Armstrong', but Col. Irving of Bonshaw has compiled

ren longer list.

3o6 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

and Black Esk on the Border, and a hum and wood of the
same name two miles below Langholm, on the west side
of the water of Esk, Wauchope." In the same volume,
under the heading o( " Esk," this writer refers to what
he names Castle Orwin, the "Castel Owyrn " of Bleau's
map of 1662, to which he gives the alternative title of
" Irwine." His note is as follows : — " Esk, on the borders ;
it is divided likewise into two rivers, Black on the right
hand, which riseth at Powmuck, near Coldlaw hill, and
passing by Castle Orwin, or Irwin joineth with White
Esk at the Birks, which riseth out of Glenditting in the
forest, and both of them keep on their course and join
with Ewis at the Castle of Langholm, and so passing by
Irwin Burn, they receive Lidder below Broomholm, and
afterwards fall into the Firth of Solway." It would there-
fore appear that his statement as to the castle between the
Black and White Esks having been the seat of the Irving
clan, is based only upon the verbal similarity of the names
— a somewhat unreliable premise for definite historical
deduction.

Even in the days of King Robert the Bruce the Irvings
are said to have been a clan of power and influence, and
an intimate relationship existed between them and the
King, an ancestor of the Drum branch being his arm-
our-bearer. On one occasion, at least, Bruce honoured
Bonshaw with his presence, and the room he occupied is
still called " King Robert the Bruce's room." This was
in 1306, when he was fleeing from Edward "Longshanks."
When he came to the throne, the Bruce conferred upon
one branch of the clan the lands of Drum in Aberdeen-
shire, which they still hold, and assigned to them the
armorial device of three holly leaves, which now appears

* Nat. Diet, of Biography.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 307

Oil the Irving coat o( arms. Another, the third, branch
oi the clan, are the Irvines oi Ireland.*

In lower Eskdale the stronghold of the Irvings was at
Stakeheuch, sometimes called Auchenrivock, on the
Irvine Burn. Col. Irving of Bonshaw claims to have
discovered the site of a more ancient and more import-
ant seat, which he calls Castlfi Irving, near to the present
Irvine House. But his opinion on this matter is not
shared bv local antiquaries. They seem, almost unani-
mously, to regard the remains indicated by Col. Irving
as quite modern, and hold that Stakeheuch, which stood
on the hill immediately overlooking Irvine House, was
the only stronghold of the Irvings in Eskdale during the
middle period.

The eldest of the Irving family acquired by marriage
the Tower and lands of Bonshaw, which have since re-
mained the centre of the Irving clan.

The Irvings were mostly horse soldiers, and as such
they fought at Flodden, and on many another Border
battlefield. The muster of the clan when strongest is
given as 500 by Mr. A. Bruce Armstrong, who apparent-
Iv formed his estimate from the number of Irvings under
English assurance in 1547, but Col. Irving of Bonshaw
gives their strength as 742 men. The position occupied
by the clan in the councils of the Border chiefs may be
inferred from the fact that, in 1547, when Lord Whar-
ton had devastated virtually the whole county of Dum-
fries, and thereby had succeeded in compelling the sub-
mission of the clans, it was the Irvings who were deputed
to negotiate the terms upon which the clans would come
under English assurance. The numbers of Irvings, —

rhe Irish and Drum branches of the clan adopted the spelling- of
" Iivine," but the Bonshaw stock retain the terminal "»,"

3o8 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

the name given in the documents relating to this matter
is Yrwen, — who then yielded to Wharton were : — Bon-
shaw 102, Robgill 34, Dick's Ritchie" 142, and various
other branches 153, or a total following of 431. Lord
Wharton's letter to the Council reporting these over-
tures is of considerable interest to Eskdale people, and
it will be dealt with more fully in our next chapter.

The Irvings also occupied the peel tower of Stake-
heuch, on the higher ground on the south side of Irvine
Burn, and a short distance from the road to Canonby.
It is round this tower that most of the history of the clan
in Eskdale is circled. It need scarcely be said that the
Irvings took their full share in the raids and tumults of
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. They both gave
and received hard knocks. In the list of ravages com-
mitted by the Scots in the West March of England in
1528, it is complained that : —

" The Irwens of Staikhugh to the number of vj did enter Kng-
lond ground and lyght upon Sir John Aruthureth and Jame Grayme,
called Jame Fein, Englyshmen, and chasyd them to the how.sez of
Long Will Grayme of Stuble and brent the said Long Will best
howse, with xxx other how.sez standyng next to the same and toke
and had away the said Inglyshmen and their horsses."

This stirring incident occurred on the 9th of May, and
on the 17th the Irvings, accompanied by Sande Arm-
strong, went to Brakanhill, slew William Waugh and
Thomas Stavert, and " hed away certain goodis and
cattlis." On the 30th of the same month the Irvings of
Hoddom, and the Armstrongs with whom they co-oper-
ated in many raids and forays, riding with them, too, that
fatal June day when Johnie Armstrong went to Carlin-
rig, paid a visit to the ground between the Esk and the

* Dyk Irwen was one of the most famous and daring freebooters of
the sixteenth century. On one occasion Lord Dacre complained to
Wolsey that Dyk respected neither "true pilgrims" of the church nor
the King's letters of safe conduct.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 309

Lyne and burnt 41 houses and 12 barns, and bethinking
themselves that in their raid o( the gth to Stuble they
had left a few houses standing, they repaired thither and
burnt them also. Later in the same day sixty of the Arm-
strongs are reported to have made a day foray in the same
locality, and "thertooke and hed away lxxvj hed of eattail,
ij nagis and viij sleyne."*

Of course, the Irvings found, as did the other clans,
that they could not play at bowls without getting rub-
bers. During the invasion of Lord Wharton in 1544,
tew o( the Scottish clans escaped without great loss of
men and property. In one of his reports Wharton men-
tions that, after a raid round about Annandale, his men
"in their return burnt Bonshaw, Robgill, and all the
houses, peills, steds and corn in their way," and the writer
then laconically adds, "4 Scotts slayn." More than
once, Stakeheuch suffered a like fate to Bonshaw, but it
was all part oi' the game, and probably either side would
have held the other in slight respect had there been no
such reprisals.

Three years later, in 1547, the Irvings made their sub-
mission to Lord Wharton.

There existed for several generations an informal alli-
ance between the Irvings and the Johnstones of Annan-
dale, though, it is curious to note, the former were on
terms o( friendship with the Armstrongs, who were at
tend with the Johnstones. The families had also inter-
married, and probably through this relationship some
branches of the Irvings had been " kindlie tenants"
d the laird oi Johnstone. Another tie between the

1 here is a curious method in the accounting of thai period which re-
tbe relative value in which human life was held compared with
property. The number of men killed is almost always given after the
number of cattle captured.

310 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

two clans was their mutual enmity towards the Max-
wells. When John, Lord Maxwell, was slain at the
Battle of Dryfe Sands in 1593, the Irvings were, among
other Border clans, found righting on the side of the
Johnstones. The Book of Caerlaverock makes men-
tion of the respite granted by James VI. to Sir James
Johnstone, and eight score others, for the slaughter of
Maxwell, and the list includes 4lJohn Irving of Lus,
Habbie Irving of Turnschaw, Richie Irving in Staik-
heugh and Ekkie Irving his brother, William Irving
callet Kange, Edward Irving of Bonshaw and his sons."
It will be noticed that Richie Irving is described not as
o/Stakeheuch but as in that place. The fact of the names
being individually mentioned in this and in similar lists
of assurances, indicates that the authority of the head
of the clan was not invariably accepted as sufficient.
The individual responsibility of each man is clearly re-
cognised.

The Irvings are not very often mentioned in Border
song or story, but in the popular ballad of Fair Helen
of Kirkconnell, the clan claims the heroine as one of its
members. The romance is too well known to require
more than a cursory reference. Helen was loved by
two suitors. One, whose name admits of no question,
was Adam Fleming, and the other was said to have been
a Bell of Blacket House. Adam's was the favoured suit,
and the jealousy of the other being aroused, he waited
for a favourable moment to slay his rival. This came
as the lovers were strolling along the beautiful banks of
the Kirtle Water. Seeing the danger her lover was in,
Fair Helen stepped between him and his opponent.
Receiving in her own bosom the bullet meant for her lover,
she died in his arms. Accounts differ as to what en-

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS.

<jQt m

3i2 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

sued. One tradition is that there and then the rivals
fought and the murderer was slain. Another says that
he fled to Spain, pursued by Fleming, who slew him in
the streets of Madrid. Returning to Kirkconnell, the
distracted lover cast himself upon Fair Helen's grave
and died. Their graves may be seen in Kirkconnell
churchyard, one of the most charming spots in #the
county of Dumfries, and on his tombstone are inscribed
the words — " hic jacet adamus Fleming."

Such is the story of Fair Helen of Kirkconnell. But
the family of the heroine is a matter of dispute. She
is claimed confidently by the Irvings, who possessed
Kirkconnell until the year 1600, when Robert, Lord
Maxwell, deprived them of it; but she is also claimed by
the Bells of Blacket House, and it is now impossible
to ascertain to which family Helen really belonged.
No ballad is more characteristic of the tenderer aspect
of Border life than this — its charm is immortal. Its
exquisite simplicity appeals to the delicate literary taste
more^than even the verses of Wordsworth, who, for some
reason, gives the favoured lover the surname of Bruce: —

" Fair Ellen Irwin, when she sat
Upon the braes of Kirtle,
Was lovely as a Grecian maid
Adorned with wreaths of myrtle.
Young Adam Bruce beside her lay,
And there did they beguile the day,
With love and gentle speeches
Beneath the budding beeches."

Wordsworth's poem indeed fails to catch that peculiar
and characteristic note which gives such passionate in-
tensity to our Border ballads. It will not bear compari-
son with Adam Fleming's lament over Helen's grave : —

" O think na ye my heart was sair

When my love dropt down and spak nae mail !
There did she swoon wi' meikle care
On fair Kirkconnell Lee.''

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 313

O Helen fair ! O Helen chaste I
[f I were with thee, I were hlest,
Where thou lies low and takes thv real
On fair- Kirkconnell Lee."

THE SIC) ITS OV KWKSDALK.

The last Eskdale clan to which reference need he made
is that formerly known as the "Scotts of Ewesdale."
This title has been the cause of some confusion respect-
ing the identity of the clan, because, not unnaturally, it
has been sought for in Ewesdale, as a place distinct from
Eskdale. But the Scotts were one of the Upper Eskdale
clans, and do not appear to have had any connection
with the valley now known as Ewesdale. The explanation
of the use of ki Ewesdale " lies in the fact that, in the latter
part of the seventeenth century, the whole of Eskdale, with
its tributary valleys, was included in the county of Rox-
burgh.* Ewesdale, being adjacent thereto, and probably
offering the most direct route from the north, assumed
therefore a much greater importance than Eskdale itself.
In some of the old maps, notably in Herman Moll's, which
was made as late as 1745, but drawn from the works of
other geographers such as Timothy Pont, the entire dis-
trict is called " Eusdale," and Eskdale is only brought
mi as a sub-title.

This clan of Scotts, which was entirely distinct from
the Scotts of Buccleuch and did not answer to the call of
their chief, sprang from Scott of Howpaslet, now called
Howpasley, on the Borthwick Water, a valley stretch-
ing roughly east and west between Eskdalemuir and

In one or two charters of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries tin-

- are described as in the county of Roxburgh, but such entries were

probably due to clerical errors,— indeed, in one charter of 1568 the entry

is "Watstaker vie. Roxburgh (Dumfries)?" showing that the en roller

himself was not quite certain.

314 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Teviotdale. Scott of Howpasley's son became Scott of
Thirlestane, and the family was known by either designa-
tion, even as their namesakes were known as the Scotts
of Buccleuch or Branxholme.

It will be remembered that Robert I. gave to the con-
ventual house of Melrose certain lands in Upper Eskdale,
and that the Avenels and Grahams also gave to the
monks certain proprietary rights in Eskdalemuir. Now,
from 1504 to 15 1 7, the Abbot of Melrose was William
Scott, eldest son of Sir William Scott of Howpasley,
and, in 1564, Michael Scott, of the same family, was
Commendator of Melrose. There is a tradition that the
Abbot granted Davington to his relatives of Howpasley,
and in 1568 the Commendator granted a charter of the
lands of Thirlestane, Ettrick, and other lands to Robert
Scott of Thirlestane. When the monasteries were an-
nexed to the state in 1587, the possessions of the Abbey
of Melrose — the Regality of Melrose, as they were styled
— were forfeited to the Crown. By a charter, dated at
Newmarket, England, on 24th March, 1613, the King
granted certain specified lands "all formerly incorporated
into one tenandry of Dumfedling, in the Regality of
Melros," to William, Earl of Morton. Morton, having
resigned these lands, the King, by a charter dated
Edinburgh, 7th April, 1613, granted them to ''Walter,
Lord Scott of Bukgleugh." Mr. Carlyle was, therefore,
wrong in stating that the Earl of Buccleuch, in 1642,
purchased them from Morton along with Dalkeith.

Robert Scott of Thirlestane married Lady Margaret
Scott, sister of Buccleuch. It was their son Walter who
fought the duel referred to on page 303. Walter's son,
Patrick Scott o( Tanlawhill, was great-grandfather to

The Scotts of Kwisdail.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 315

Lord Napier o( Magdala. Robert Scott of Thirlestane's
great-great-grandson was Robert Scott o( Davington,

who, on the death of his brother John, became heir-male
of line to the ancient family of Scott of Howpasley and
Thirlestane.*

The grandfather o( Robert Scott of Davington had
borrowed cm u wadset "t a sum of ,£120,000 Scots from
Sir James Douglas of Kelhead, with Thirlestane and
Davington as security. On 21st January, 1688, Sir
James raised a summons against the heir, requiring him
to assign over to him in satisfaction of the " wadset,"
the lands of Davington, Fingland, Pentland, Dumfedling.
Nether Cassock, Wester Polclive, Westwoodrig, and
Burncleuch. He succeeded in his action, and having ob-
tained these lands, assigned them, in 1702, to Anne,
Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth, who at that
time was eagerly acquiring whatever properties in Esk-
dale she could obtain.

Exempt from this action-at-law were Thirlestane and
Davington Mains, both of which had been previously
disposed of. Another lawsuit arose, however, in 1786,
over these lauds, which, by order of the Court, were sold,
and, as already stated, were purchased by James Beattie
of Dalbeth.

It will be observed that the lands named above as
being acquired by the Duchess of Buccleuch in 1702 are
all included in the list given on page 248, which the
tradition, quoted by Dr. Brown, said, had been purchased
In the Scotts of Buccleuch from Lord Maxwell.

The Scot Is of Ewisdail, by the late T. J. Carlyle, F.9.A., Scot., of
Templehill, Waterbeck.

t " Wadset was a legal arrangement akin to a mortgage, h bound
the owner to surrender his property if he could not meet the lender's
claim on a specified date.

316 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The mistake was, therefore, caused by confusing the
Scotts of Howpasley and Thirlestane with the Scotts of
Buccleuch.

Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch, soon acquired other
properties which had formerly belonged to the various
families of the " Scotts of Ewesdale." From John
Scott she bought Rennelburn.* From Scott of Tush-
ielaw she bought Moodlaw Knovve, Grassyards, Kim-
mingsyke, and' Langshawburn ; from Scott of Raeburn
— Raeburnhead, Yetbyre, and Yards; from Francis Scott
— Tanlawhill.

The estate of Raeburn, which is now known as Mood-
law, still remains, we believe, in the possession of the
descendant of the original Scott of Raeburn, from whom
Sir Walter Scott of Abbotsford traced his descent.

Whilst dealing with these changes in the ownership
of lands in Upper Eskdale, originally belonging to this
large clan of Scotts, we may mention the following : —

Robert Scott, the last of Davington,1" had sold Burn-
cleuch to George Bell, of Woodhouselees, whose des-
cendants exchanged it with the Duke of Buccleuch for
Castlehill. The Bells also acquired Crurie, Yards and
Yetbyre. The father of the late Mr. Richard Bell, not
liking the last name, changed it to Castle O'er.*

The rest of the properties in Eskdalemuir which are
now owned by the Duke of Buccleuch, but were formerly

* John Scott, the last laird of Rennelburn, was, in 1679, a tenant of
the Duke of Buccleuch of the farms of Langholm Mains and Balgray.
He became factor to the Duchess, and it is doubtless in this capacity
that he appears in the rent-roll for the farms of Arkinholm, Turnerholm,
and the Ten-Merk-land.

t One of Robert Scott's sons was John Scott, writer, Langholm, who
came to occupy a position of considerable influence in the town, and
another was James Scott, surgeon, Carlisle.

t My Strange Pets, pp. 293-4. On Bleau's map of 1662 the name is
given as Castle Owyrn, which the late Mr. Richard Bell considered a
more archaic and interesting form than the modern Castle O'er.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 317

in the possession of other persons, mostly Scotts of the
I lowpasley or Thirlestane branch, are Causivay, now part

of Nether Cassock, Aberlosk, now part of Langshawburn,
Johnstone, Clerkhill, and Cot. As already mentioned,
Over Cassock and Glendearg are owned by Miss Beattie
of Crieve.

The "Scotts of Ewesdale" did not acknowledge the
headship of the Scotts of Buccleuch. Indeed, considerable
doubt seems to have existed as to who was entitled to
style himself chief of the whole clan of Scotts. One writer
on heraldry, quoted by the late Mr. T. J. Carlyle of Temple-
hill, gave it as his opinion that whilst a male-heir of
Thirlestane was alive, neither "Harden, placed by Burke
as chieftain, nor any other branch of the Scotts could
succeed to the chieftainship of the Scotts." At an As-
size Court held at Peebles in November, [587, Scott of
Buccleuch appeared before the King at Neidpath Castle,
when he and his friends expressly disclaimed all responsi-
bility for, or connection with, the Scotts of Kwesdale.*

When, in 1590, certain chieftains were required to give
cautionary bonds for the good conduct of their followers,
the Scotts of Thirlestane, Tushielaw, and Harden, were
amongst those enumerated. But, in practice, Scott of
Buccleuch had been recognised as, at least, first amongst
equals, though the <k Scotts of Ewesdale " did not obey
his call. The Scotts both of Howpasley and Thirlestane
and also of Harden, acted independently of Buccleuch
until the year 1596, when Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch
enrolled them in his clan and guaranteed that their actions
should not be obnoxious to the Government.

There were marriage connections between the Scotts
of Howpasley and the Johnstones of Annandale. For

Craig- Brown's History of Selkirkshire, Vol. I., p. 164.

318 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

instance, " auld Wat of Harden's" wife was Mary Scott,
who for her grace and beauty was called "The Flower o(
Yarrow," and her grandmother was a Johnstone of that
Ilk. When the feuds between the Johnstones and Max-
wells reached their culmination on Dryfe Sands in 1593,
Johnstone was supported by various Border clans,
amongst others the Scotts of Eskdale (see page 233).
These were not the Scotts of Buccleuch but of Howpasley
and Thirlestane. The different Scotts who supported
Johnstone are named in the pardon afterwards granted
to Sir James Johnstone. When James V. contemplated
an invasion of England in 1542, John Scott of Thirle-
stane was the only baron who responded to the summons
of the King.* He brought with him 70 lances, and the
King, in gratitude, created him a baronet, and granted
him an augmentation to his arms — a double tressure of
fleurs-de-lis on his shield, a bundle of lances for crest,
and " Ready, aye ready " for a motto. This motto, as we
have already noted, was also awarded to the Johnstones
of Westerhall.t

The " Scotts of Ewesdale" appear to have been a dar-
ing and lawless race, and to have distinguished themselves
in many a dangerous raid. One of the historical refer-
ences to the clan is found in a drama by Sir David Lind-
say* where there appears an impersonation of ''Common
Thift, a Borderer." Agreeably to the conventions of the
drama of that day this representative meets with his just
deserts, and in a dying speech bids farewell to all his
old associates. As might be expected, his death-bed
references to them are not exactly complimentary, for, of

* Scotts of Eivisdail, by T. J. Carlyle of Templehill.

t See note p. 266.

% Introduction to Scott's Minstrelsy.

OTHER ESKDALE CLANS. 319

course, Sir David must needs be "correct" in his working

Out oi the drama : —

"Adewl Robsons, How is, Pylis,
That in our craft lies many wilis,
Littlis, Trumbulls and Armestranges.
Adew ! all theeves, that me belangis,
Baileowes, Erewynis and Elwandis,
Speedy of flicht and slight of handis ;
The Scotts oi' Eisdale and the Gramis,
I haif na time to tell you namis. "

In the Border ballad entitled, The Fray of Suportt there
is also a reference to the clan : —

" Sae whether they be Elliots or Armstrangs,
Or rough-riding Scotts or rude Johnstones,
Or whether they be frae the Tarras or Ewsdale,
They maun turn and fight, or try the deeps o' Liddel."

We have dealt at this considerable length on the iden-
titv and history of these various clans, because all through
the sixteenth century their raids and forays affected so
intimately the history of Eskdale, and at the present
time afford so interesting a study of Border life.

In Mr. A. Bruce Armstrong's History of Liddesdale, &c,
there is a beautifully coloured reproduction of the arms
o{ the clans of Liddesdale and Eskdale with the title :—

" Thir ar

ye armys of ye clannis

quha kept ye bordouris

of Scotland in Liddisdaill,

Eskdaill, Ewisdaill,

Wauchopdaill and ye

Debaitable landis

in ye auld tyme."

Amongst the arms there given are those of the Scotts,
Glendinnings, Armstrongs, Elliots, Littles, Beattisons,
Thomsons, and Irvings.

livings and Elliots.

32°

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

THE DEBATEABLE LAND IN AD

CHAPTER XVI.

CASTLKS AND TOWERS.

THE map opposite, showing the strongholds in An-
nandale, Kskdale, Kwesdale, and Liddesdale in the
vear 1590, makes no distinction between castles and
towers, or between towers and "those little stone houses"
which existed in considerable numbers on both the
Scottish and English Borders during the sixteenth
and seventeenth centuries. Many of the places shown
as towers or keeps must certainly have been houses of
very moderate dimensions and strength. This was a
necessity of the times, because the residences of the less
wealthy or powerful chiefs were liable to sudden raids
and destruction. Houses were burnt one day and re-built
the next. There was, therefore, no inducement to spend
either time or means upon them. But dotted here and
there were strongholds of a superior order. Towers like
Hollows and Stakeheuch were meant to serve as refuges
in times of more serious warfare, and upon them, there-
tore, both skill and labour were spent.

Of greater superiority still were the castles of the
feudal barons, such as Wauchope, Barntalloch, or
Meikledale, whilst military depots such as Langholm
Castle, Thrieve, and especially Hermitage, were not
only strongly built, but were well garrisoned and adapted
to withstand a siege of considerable duration.

BARNTALLOCH.

Probably the oldest of the feudal castles in Kskdale

that of Barntalloch at Stapelgortoun. It stood on
W

322 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

an eminence overlooking the Esk towards the south-east.
On the north-east was the burn, into which there was a
precipitous descent from the Castle, and on the west there
was a constructed fosse. No record has been left of its
erection, and only a fragment of the outlines can now be
traced, though the site itself is easily distinguishable.
Little doubt exists that the Castle of Barntalloch was
of a strength and massiveness in keeping with the size
of the barony of Stapelgortoun. As the name implies,
this town was the centre of a large agricultural trade,
and the baron's castle would be its principal resi-
dence, well built, strongly fortified by nature, and set in
the midst of a scene of great beauty and charm. It served,
too, as the seat of justice for the district. There the
baron's out-door court, himself seated, perhaps, on the
grassy slopes of the Castle grounds, with his vassals and
bondmen ranged before him in strict order of social status,
would form one of the picturesque phases of a rude but
slowly advancing civilization. The Castle would be
occupied by the barons as they quickly followed each
other in those days of rapid change : Sir William de
Kunyburg ; possibly at times Sir John Lindsay or one
of his sons ; then the succession of the Douglases, or their
factors, for it does not appear that they themselves hab-
itually resided in Eskdale. Unfortunately, we have left
to us no relic of those days, and as the references to
Barntalloch in the contemporary records are very sparse
indeed, we are left largely to conjecture as to what man-
ner of place it was.

WAUCHOPE.

More historical data exist respecting Wauchope Castle.
It was built by the Lindsays, and continued in their

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 323

hands with little intermission until their final forfeiture,
and standing at the confluence of the Wauchope Water
and the Becks Burn, on a plateau some 34 feet above
the river, it occupied a site admirably adapted for defen-
sive purposes.

The plateau extends from north to south about 103
yards, and from east to west about 30 yards. The
Wauchope runs the entire length of the buildings on
the east ; the Becks Burn forms a natural fosse on
the north-west, whilst from north-west to south-west
there ran an artificial fosse from the Becks Burn to Wauc-
hope Water, which it joined at the Auld Stane Brig.
11 It is situated," says Foster in his Beauties of Scotland,
uon a steep precipice, beautifully romantic, upon the
river Wauchope which, with its waters murmuring be-
low on the pointed rocks, and the opposite banks finely
shaded with oaks and pendant underwood, renders its
situation grave and picturesque."

The Lindsays probably placed more value upon mili-
tary strength than natural beauty, but the situation they
selected for their Scottish castle offered both of these in-
ducements, and herein it may be ranked with Barntalloch.
When Lord Dacre made his notorious raid into Dum-
friesshire after the Battle of Flodden, he boasted that he
had laid waste almost the whole o( Ewesdale and Esk-
dale, and that "all these ploughs and townships are now
clearl) wasted, and no man dwelleth in any of them at
this day, save only in the touns* of Annan, Stepel, and
Wauchope." Stepel may refer to Stapelgortoun, if so,
the fact that it and Wauchope remained unreduced
in that ruthless raid, is evidence of Dacre's inability

The term "toun" meant the retainers' huts surrounding the baron's

Castle. Cp. the Scottish " farm toun."

324 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

rather than of his unwillingness to take these strong-
holds.

Wauchope Castle would be erected soon after 1285,
when Sir John Lindsay received from King Alexander
III. the lands of Wauchope and Stapelgortoun. The
Lindsays would hold the Castle almost continuously until
1505, possibly the only break being from the date of the
Battle of Ban nockburn, when they forfeited their estates on
account of their adhering to the cause of Edward of Eng-
land, until 1 3 1 9, when the Bruce restored the property of
Wauchopedale to the grandson of the original holder.
After 1505, when the lands were again forfeited owing to
the killing of the brothers Glendinning, the Castle seems
to have been left to decay.

During the unsettled days of 15 18 when the Arm-
strongs and other Border clans were creating so much
disorder, the Wardens of the different Scottish Marches
took counsel as to how peace and order could best be re-
stored. One of their proposals was that Maxwell, who
was Warden of the West March, should take up his
residence in Wauchope, in which event they trusted "he
with thaire help and with the help of other cuntremen
nixt adjacent, mycht put reule to the cuntreis of Ewis-
dale and Eskdale, to the quhilk thai sulde be redy quhen
the said Lord Maxwell walde require thaim."*

Eight years later, 1526, Maxwell obtained a tack of
Wauchopedale "with the mylnis fortalice and fishing of
the samin and thar pertinentis quhilkis pertenit to Johnne
Lindesay of Wauchop." The consideration set forth in
the tack, or lease, is Maxwell's service "in stancheing
of thift and uther misrewle in the cuntre and for the
bigging and reparatioun of the nous tour and fortalice of

* Armstrong's History, p. 214.

CASTLES AM) TOWERS. 325

Wauchop." This charge implies that the Castle of
Wauchope had fallen into a state of disrepair if not into
actual ruin. By the year 1547, when Wharton and his
coadjutors were over-running Eskdale and the adjoining

dales, the Castle seems to have become a complete ruin,
probably owing, in some measure, to Lord Maxwell being
a prisoner of the English King. It is recorded of Sir
Thomas Carl eton that on one night of their march he and
his party " lay in the old walls of Wauchope Tower."

In 1549011 his return from London, where he had been
held as hostage by the English King, Robert, Lord Max-
well, appears to have set himself to restore his Wauchope-
dale properties. He appointed Patrick Bell as "Serge-
ant of Wauchope."* The duties o( the office would
probably be akin to those of a baron-bailie.

The Bells seem to have settled in Wauchope, as in
1679 we find a Patrick Bell, doubtless a descendant of
the sergeant, a tenant of the Ouke of Buccleuch "in
Wauchope." The following entry taken from the Stapel-
gortoun Registers relates to the same family : —

"January 6, 1679.
The sd d\. Hts.se Bell d.l. to Patrick Bell in the parish of Wauchope
bapt. wit. John Bell in Galaside and Adam Bettie, yr."

May not this entry explain the origin of the name " Besse

Hell's Brae," that picturesque corner in Wauchopedale,

concerning which there has been much speculation?

On Bleau's map of 1662 the Castle is marked " Waes "

a ruin. Portions of the walls remained standing until

Well within living memory. A considerable piece of

eastern wall, fronting Wauchope Water, stood

until about the year 1886 when, loosened by frost and

rain, most of it fell into the river bed. This piece of

Armstrong's History t p. 3.

326 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

wall, o\ which only two small remnants now remain, had
been long undermined, and there was a local tradition
that it was the entrance to a cave. On the north side,
another portion of wall stood until about the same date,
when it fell into the Burn, probably dislodged by the
roots of the great beech under which it stood. This
piece of masonry was known as The Auld Wa's. Exca-
vations on a slight scale were made a few years ago by
some local antiquaries, and the foundation walls were
uncovered, and an idea of the ground plan was obtained.
These discoveries revealed a place of considerable
strength, but were too partial to admit of a definite idea
being formed as to the dimensions of the fortalice itself.

In the year 1726 some of the pipes supplying the moat
of the Castle were dug up, and from their position it
would appear that the moat was filled from Wauchope.*
When the new road into Wauchopedale was made, about
the year 1794, the workmen cut through a leaden pipe
laid towards the higher ground to the west, and it was
surmised that it had brought the water from a cistern
on the adjoining hill-side.

Occasional relics have been discovered on the site of
the Castle, but undoubtedly the most important is the
hasp of a coffer, here illustrated, found in 1895 by James
Reid, Langholm, and now in the National Museum of
Antiquities in Edinburgh. In the Proceedings of the
Society of Antiquaries of Scotland it is described as
the 4k Enamelled Hasp of a Coffer found in the bank
of Hecks Burn, between the graveyard of the old
church of Wauchope and Wauchope Castle, near
Langholm. This beautiful example of thirteenth cent-
ury enamelled metal-work, of the school of Limoges,

* MS. by the late Geo. K. Rome.

CASTLKS AND TOWERS.

327

HASP of COFFER; WAUCHOPE CASTLE.

328 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

consists of two parts, each made in solid copper, and
united by a hinge. The larger part, which was fastened
across the top of the coffer, is modelled in the form o( a
dragonesque creature, with folded wings and a twist in
its tail, which terminates in another head, from the mouth
oi which issues a floral scroll. The other part, united to
this by a hinge, which allowed it to fall down on the
front of the coffer, carries on the under side a loop for
the bolt of the lock. It is also modelled as a dragon-
esque form of slender proportions, issuing from the
mouth o( another. The enamel is c/iamp/eve in three
colours — a pale blue, a light green, and a glistening
greyish white. The ridges o( metal between the enam-
elled surfaces have been highly gilt, but are now much
corroded. Coffers with such enamelled hinges, and other
decorations of Limoges work, were largely used, both in
France and Britain, in the thirteenth and fourteenth cent-
uries, although this is the only example hitherto known
in Scotland. There is in the Museum, however, a cruci-
fix of similar work, in champleve enamel, which was
found in the churchyard of Ceres, Fife."

LANGHOLM CASTLE.

The Castle of Langholm belonged neither to the order
of baronial residences such as Barntalloch and Wauchope,
nor to the ordinary type of Border peel-tower such as the
Hollows. It was obviously built for purposes which
were military rather than residential, and conformed to a
type common all along the Borders, — ranking with such
castles as Thrieve, Lochmaben, and Norham. It may,
therefore, be regarded as occupying a middle position,—
of greater strength and importance than the Hollows
Tower, but yet much inferior to Hermitage Castle, which

CASTLES AND TOWERS.

329

330 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

was the key to the military situation on the western
Borders.

The site of Langholm Castle is one of charming nat-
ural beauty. Built on that fine alluvial tract, known as
the Castle Holm, it stands almost at the confluence of
the Esk and the Ewes. At the date of its building
both rivers probably flowed much nearer the Castle than
they now do,* and thus on two sides, otherwise vulner-
able, it was well protected. The position was chosen
with judgment, commanding as it did the passes into
Eskdale, Ewesdale, and Wauchopedale.

The illustration shows all that now remains of the
Castle, but gives quite an imperfect idea of what the
building once was. Most of the material, it is said, was
afterwards quarried to build other houses in Langholm,
and only this portion has been left to remind us of the
brave scenes upon which those broken walls have looked.
Probably, what is now left was but part of the central
tower. Judging by the wall still standing, and by the
part of the foundation visible, this tower would appear to
have measured from north to south about 56 feet, and
from east to west about 30 feet. The walls, as will be
seen from the plan, were about live feet three inches in
thickness. It will be observed from the drawing on
page 332 that, near to the ground level, there is one of
those apertures, which are generally assumed to be shot-
holes. It is, however, much more likely that they were
used for purposes of ventilation. That the original Castle
must have been considerably larger than is indicated by
these measurements, is suggested by a reference to the

* Vide the evidence given before the Court of Session in 1759, when
the question of the division of the Kilngreen, in association with the
Commonty, was being- argued.

CASTLES AND TOWERS.

33i

*-**-)*

is-e

)f5H

LANGHOLM CASTLE GROUND PLAN.
records of the sixteenth century. In a letter written to
the Earl of Shrewsbury, when the Castle was in posses-
sion of the English in 1544, Lord Wharton stated that
he had placed in Langholm Tower a considerable num-
ber o( foot soldiers, to whom were to be added 50 horse.
And in 1557, when Mary, the Queen- Regent, introduced
the Gascoigne soldiers into Scotland, 600 of them were
apportioned to Langholm Castle and to Annan for the
defence of the Borders. It seems scarcely likely, how-
ever, that the Castle itself was capable of holding such a
company. Its regulation garrison was a captain and 24
men. Possibly for the temporary accommodation of these
troops, tents were requisitioned, and the "laich houses"
about the Castle also brought into use.

Concerning the builder we have no definite informa-
tion. There is a tradition, quoted in Macfarlane's MS.,
now in the Advocates1 Library in Edinburgh, and

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

repeated by successive writers, that the Castle was built
by a brother of Johnie Armstrong of Gilnockie, but
this appears to be nothing more than an intelligent con-
jecture. Nor of the date of building have we any cer-
tain knowledge. About the year 1526 the Armstrongs
built a number of strong towers on the Borders, for the
better protection of the members of the clan who, at that

ELEVATION OF LANGHOLM CASTLE.

date, held a considerable portion of the Debateable Land,
including Hollows, and also the lands of Stapelgortoun,
Langholm, Crawsknowe, Dalbeth, and Shiel. It is,
therefore, highly probable that Langholm Castle was
one of the places then erected. Complaint was made
that the building of such strongholds was against the
agreement between Lord Maxwell and the Earl of Cum-

CASTLES AND TOWERS.

berland, and certain measures, already described in these
pages, were taken by Lord Dacre for destroying" them, —
measures which miscarried mainly owing to the tactical
skill of Johnie Armstrong of Gilnockie, who, in the

correspondence on the subject is named as "John Armi-
Strang, otherwise called John the Larde." Their erection
was also condemned by the King's decree of 6 July, 1528,
which said: "Gif ony man intendis to b i 14 ony biggingis
upon the bordouris of this realme neir unto England or
ony strenth or fortalice, the King and his councal willis
to desist and ceis thairfra." It was also decreed that any
such places which had been already built were to be
destroyed. Some confusion has, not unnaturally, been
caused by the Castle of Langholm being referred to under
other titles. In addition to Castle it is named the Place
of Langholm, Langholm Tower, the Fortalice of Lang-
holm, the House of Langholm, and sometimes as the
House and Place of Langholm/ Allowing for the lack
of definiteness which characterised the wording in docu-
ments of that period, it would appear that all these
designations attached to one and the same building- — the
Castle, the ruins of which still stand on the Castle I lolm.
If we accept the conjecture that Langholm Castle was
Originally built by either Johnie Armstrong- of Gilnockie,
or one of his family, when the former received the charter
from Robert, Lord Maxwell, in 1525, then in 1529 the
Castle would pass absolutely into Maxwell's hands, by
Armstrong's unconditional resignation of the lands of
Langholm.

Langholm Castle is first brought into prominent notice
in 1544. 1° tnat year, Lord Wharton, in furtherance of
t'ne design of King Henry VIII. of England to reduce

Cp. "the house, lower, and fortalice of Wauchope," p. 225.

334 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Scotland to vassalage, made his notorious raid into
Dumfriesshire, burning", wasting and slaying, with fierce
revenge, in the dales of the Nith, the Annan and the Esk.
Towards the end of that year Langholm Castle came into
his possession. Various writers have said that he ob-
tained possession of it through the treachery of those
Armstrongs — that is the Armstrongs of Gilnockie—
who had given bonds of man-rent to Lord Maxwell, the
owner of the Castle. So far as we are aware the only,
or at least the most definite, statement on the point occurs
in a letter dated 1546, from the Scottish Estates to the
French King and his Ambassador in London. In this
letter they state that " Ane tour callit Langhope had
been thiftuouslie taken by a Scottis tratour " and they
pray the French King to " caus the King o( ingland to
leiss the said hous free to our Soverane Lady." It will
be observed that the name of the " Scottis tratour " is not
given. In a letter from Lord Wharton dated 27 October
1544 we §"et some further information. He says : "cer-
ten of the Armstrangs of Lyddesdaill* wan and spoyled
the tower of Langhope, brought away all the goods in
the same and 4 prisoners." On this statement it has
been taken for granted that the Armstrongs handed over
the Castle to the English. In this there is nothing im-
probable. Like most of the other Border clans the
Armstrongs were at this date "at the horn," outlawed
by the Scottish Government and were under English
assurance. They were raiding and harrying their own
countrymen as enthusiastically as even Wharton could
desire. In the early autumn of 1544 they committed five
raids in Scotland whilst the Beattisons and Thomsons
had but three to their debit. But the Armstrongs can

* The italics are ours,

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 335

scarcely be blamed for this transference of their allegiance.

They were undoubtedly actuated at this time more by
motives of expediency than by patriotism. But so were
the nobles and barons. Opportunism was not then and
IS not now confined to the u broken-men " : it is adopted
in the field oi high politics. We are not concerned to
defend the Armstrongs but it seems necessary to state
clearly the facts concerning" the cession of Langholm
Castle, and it does not seem to us that the guilt of the
Armstrongs, or their "treachery" as it has been called,
has been established. Admittedly the presumption may
be against them, but presumption is not proof. And
there are other factors in the case.

It will be remembered that after the Battle of Solway
Moss in 1542, John, Lord Maxwell, had been a prisoner
in London. But in 1543 he had been permitted by the
English King to return to the Borders, on the clear
understanding that he was to assist that monarch to
achieve his designs in Scotland. Bound in this way by
the conditions of his parole, Maxwell could not honour-
ably do anything against Henry VIII. but by a delicate
piece of casuistry he conveyed to the Regent Arran a hint
to the effect that though he himself was thus precluded
from defending Scotland, his sons and all his means were
at the Regent's service. Maxwell was then re-appointed
Warden of the Marches, whereupon the English King
immediately cancelled his parole and summoned him to
London.

We get additional light on Maxwell's relationships
with the English Government in the spring of 1544, from
letters written to the Earl of Hertford by the English
Lords of Council, and also from letters to Wharton and
Bowes written by Hertford. From this cross-corres-

3;,6 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

pondence we learn that the English Lords were anxious
to obtain possession of the Castles of " Lowmaban, Trief,
Caerlanroke and Langhole." To accomplish this qim\,
they advise Hertford, that " money and reward or other
large offers" were not to be spared, "to travaile with
Lord Maxwell (ov the delvverie of the same." We also
read o\~ "offres which Robert Maxwell maketh tooching
the kepying and delyverv, if nede be, to the Kings
majestie's use, o( Loughmaban and thre other Places."

Remembering that the Scottish Government, in its letter
to the French King, refers to a " tratour" ; that it does
not mention the Armstrongs ; and putting a reason-
able interpretation on these letters to and from Hertford,
in so far as they concern the Maxwells themselves, we
are certainly of the opinion that the charge against the
Armstrongs, —especial lv, in so far as it affects the Arm-
strongs of Gilnockie, one of whom, Christie, Johnie's son,
was a few years later appointed Keeper o^ the Castle, —
has not been proved. They may have been the instru-
ments of the cession — the evidence certainly does not
indicate them as principals.

Associated with the garrison which Lord Wharton had
placed in Langholm Castle, the following incident is of
interest. When some oi the clans were considering the
question of giving assurances to Wharton, the laird of
Johnstone made counter proposals, urging them to refuse
Wharton's offers, and promising that redress should be
given them for all the hurt they had sustained by the
depredations of Wharton's soldiery. Johnstone added
that "the governour with the nolle power of the realme
wold be at the Langholme before Law Sundaye," and
there was therefore "no cause to maik suet unto"
Wharton. "Therefore," continues the latter in his
graphic narrative —

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 337

"Arguments aroos between them and hym [Johnstone] and
dyvers of them, lyk the natur of their contremen, inclyned to hym
and others contynewed ther suet, and remembrynge the untruethe

of the lard Johnston, who in the begenynge of the wanes maid
sinM and overture to serve the Kinges majeste, ourlail most noble
sovereign lord, and untrewlye refused the same, and sythen ane
ennemye agaynsl tins reatme, I caused upon Shyr Thursdaye, in
tin' morning, knowing hym to be at home, to trap hym if I colde,
fortye lyghl horsmen of Langholme to burn a town called Wam-
fraye, halfe a mille from his house of Loughwod, and appoynted
the Capilaign of Langholm, with the rest of the garryson to lye in
ambushe for the relefe of those ; and thinking that the lard John-
ston would come to the furst to vyew them, and so hedyd, and pur-
sued them sharply e to ther ambushe, and he being an overpartye to
them boothe, as I thought he wold, and to gyve hym a mor boldnes
to puisne thosse tryed men thynkyng them to have no mor reliefe,
which he dyd ; and the garyson beinge princypall men, defended
them verey straytlye, he took dyvers of the garyson and persued
the capitaign and others thinkynge to have all. . . . They
brought awaye dyverse parcellis of goodes, nolte and scheipe ;
the prisoners were takyne xiiij mylles within Scotland, from Lang-
holme. Archebald Armestrange, yonge lard of Mang-erton of
Lydysdaill, is the taker of the larde Johnston. . . The

Kynges Majeste now haithe the Maxwelles and Johnstons his
highnes prisoners, who haithe borne a gret reulle of the west
partes of Scotland."" &c.

The petition for the restoration of Langholm Castle, to
Queen Mary, did not meet with a favourable response
from the English King. The Scottish Government there-
upon determined to try to take it by force of arms. An
army was assembled at Peebles on the 20th July, 1547, and
marching to Langholm, it besieged the Castle for three or
four days. The garrison, consisting then of 16 men
with their captain, destroyed the lower portion of the
tower, and from the highest floor stubbornly defended
the place, until the besiegers, bringing artillery into
action, fired seven shots, on which the garrison capitu-
lated and Langholm Castle was once again in Scottish
hands.

Very elaborate preparations for this expedition seem
to have been made by the Government. From the ac-
counts of the Lord High Treasurer "showing the ex-

* State Papers, Vol. I., No, 10.

338 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

penses of the Raid to Eskdale and the siege of Lang-
holm Tower, July, 1547," we get many interesting
glimpses into their nature and extent. The following
44 items " are typical : —

11 Item, pnmo Junij 1547, to Lauresoun gunner, send to the laird of
Buceleucht, till be avisit with the best gait for careing of moni-
tioun towart Langholme, and to be his expenss. . . xxxiiijs."

"The expensis debursit upoun our Soverane ladyes monitioun movit
towart Langhope in the moneth of Juliy, 1547."

" Item, ix Junij, to ane boy direct with writtinges to the lairdes
Cesfurde, Farnyhirst, and Balcleuch .... vijs.

" Item, to Nysbet, direct to the baronnes of the northe, for keping
of the said raid ....... iiij/z viij5.

"Item, the samyn tyme [July 1st] be my lorde governouris speciall
commande to furneis his graces expensis towart Langholme,
deliverit to Neill Laing his graces wrytar . . . ijcxx/z.

" Item, at his graces passing to Langholme, boucht vj quarteris of
reid taffate of the corde to be ane baner ; price . . xxxs.

" Item, for a x score thre gallounes and thre quarteris of aill, furnist
to Jhonne Harte, and send to Langhope witht my lorde gover-
nour ; price . . . . . . . . . xxvij/z Vujs.

"Item, to ane man that wes gadman * to the moyanef furth of
Langhope to Edinburght, becaus thai that aucht the hors culd
nocht gyde thame, ....... xvjs.

" Item, to the laird of Balcleuches serjande, for his laubourres in
ingathering of the oxin, . . . . . . xs.

" Item, to lytill Cwnynghame, ane charge to the Lairds of Newdry-
Marschell, Innerleith, Last al rig, Craigmyllar, Edmastoun, Dal-
houssye, Rosling, Brounstoun, Newbottill, lorde Borthuik,
commanding thame to have thair oxin in Lauder the ix day of
Julij, to pas witht the artalyere towart Langholme . xijs.

"Item, to Donaldsone, letteris direct to Annandale and Nyddisdaill,
chargeing thame to cum with thair oxin and helpe to carye the
artalyere, witht closit billis to the maister of Maxwell, lairdes of
Dumlangrig, Lag, Closburne, Kirkmychaell, the surname of the
Jhonnestounes, and lorde Sanquhar, .... iij/z vis.

" Item, ane boy send furth of Edinburgh witht the quenes standart,
and caryit the saymn to Stabill Gordoun. . . viijs.

"Item, ane other boy send furth of Edinburgh with wryttinges fra
Maister James Forstar fra my lorde governour, his grace being
in Langholme, ........ vs."

Concerning Langholm Castle after the siege, several
writers say it was "demolished," but the precise condition
in which it was left does not appear. In 1562 we find
Christie Armstrong of Barngleis, son of Johnie of Gil-
nockie, appointed keeper "of the hous and place of

* Goadman. f Artillery of medium size.

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 339

Langholm " for [ohn, Lord Maxwell, at a salary of forty
pounds a year in time oi' peace. Other matters, such as

the outlav for the upkeep o( the house, and Christie's
payments during time of war, were to he referred to the
arbitration oi two Maxwells and two Armstrongs. These
various duties Christie deputed, as we have seen, to his
sous Robert and Arehie. They seem also to have been
constables o( the peace, under Lord Maxwell, as they
were allowed a force of 24 men to police the Borders.
It may be surmised that this appointment of Christie
Armstrong was part o( a scheme of re-organisation and
repair of Langholm Castle which probably, since the
siege of 1547, had stood in a dismantled condition. An
interesting light is thrown upon this question by a mili-
tary report, drawn up about 1563-6 regarding a possible
occupation o( the Borders by an English army. This
report, which is quoted in considerable detail by Mr. R.
Bruce Armstrong, gives a list of all the defences of the
Borders, with coloured drawings of some of the principal
castles and towers. In this list, curiously enough,
Langholm Castle is not mentioned, but the following
note is made : —

"There adjoyneth to Annerdale, Esdale, Wawchope Dale,
EwiSDALE, and the Debatable Landes of Englonde and Scotlande,
inhabited by the Bateis, whereof Awlie Batie principall, Thom-
sones, Lytilles, Xobilles, some Grahames in the Debatabill, and
alsoo Armestronges, ofwhiche Sande Armestronge and his seaven
Bonnes now Yngles, and haitbt pencion of Englonde, and Johnes
Cristie Armstrong of the Staikhewght,* ewill Engles . . .
albeitht the late King James hanged J one Armstrong, his father.
Thei wilbring besyde Sandy Armestrong-e, whoo ys Engles, as
said ys, to a fraye furtht of there enntrees . . . jc horsemen."

The inference from this note is that at that date
Langholm Castle was a quantity with which the invaders

Several Armstrongs were indicted at Berwick in 15S7, for raiding in
Cumberland. One named is "Christy of Auchenrivock," that is of

course Stakeheugh. Others are O.eordie and Jock of the Calfield,
Eckie and his sen Ritchie of the Stubholm, and Jock of the Hollows.

340 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

needed not to reckon. This is further shown by a re-
mark made by the writer when discussing the number of
men required for the project. He adverts to Lord
Wharton's raid [1544], and says that in similar circum-
stances fewer men would be needed than the estimate he
gives, and adds: "Thei ar noo moo in nombre nor
thei wor then and we als stroung, saving the want of
Liddisdale, Ewisdale, Waughopedale, and the Scottes
Debatable, whiche a good wardane may recover at his
pleasour."

The stewardship of Langholm Castle held by Robert
and Archie Armstrong appears to have ceased after Max-
well's raid to Stirling in 1585. In the list of those who,
on that occasion, assisted Maxwell, are mentioned,
''archie and rot armestrangis, sonis to christie in
langholme." These are the only names given in the Act
of Amnesty as from Langholm.

We have already alluded to the appointment of the
laird of Johnstone as Warden in 1578, and the subse-
quent dispute between him and Maxwell about the key
of Langholm Castle. It will be remembered that Lord
Maxwell's government as Warden had been so lax, that
even his kinsman, Lord Herries, recommended that
Maxwell should have " ane honest man his depute and
capitane in the Langholme," and further that there might
be placed at his service "twelf habil horsemen." It was
possibly in conformity with this suggestion that Herbert
Maxwell of Cavense was appointed captain, thus super-
seding the Armstrongs.* An interesting development
ensued. In Pitcairn's Criminal Trials there is recorded

* Writing to Burghley in 1581 Scrope, as we have seen, mentions
"Creste Armstrong, goodman of Langholm Castell," so evidently the
Armstrongs remained there notwithstanding the appointment of Herbert
Maxwell,

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 341

I trial in the year 1605 °f certain Armstrongs for fire-
raising at Langholm Castle in 15S1. In the record, the
charge is given first as " Burning of the House of Lang-
holm," and next as " Burning of the Castell of Lang-
holme." In the indictment, the Armstrongs named are
also accused of "taking prisoner Herbert Maxwell the
captain." In connection with this trial an interesting
point arises. Johnne Armstrong, described as "of
Langholme," was separately tried for this offence, though
on the same day as the others, the charge against him be-
ing that of fire-raising at Murtholme, and " lykewayis for
airt and pairt of the treasonabill Raising of ffyre at the
Castell of Langholme and burning of ane grit pairt of
the barnes, byres, stables, and uther ofifice-housis of the
said Place of Langholme," and for " thiftious steilling
threttie nolt with sax or sevin horse and naigis furth of
the Place of Langholme," all belonging to Herbert Max-
well. To answer these charges Johnne did not appear,
and he was sentenced to be put to the horn and his goods
escheated. This trial was an extraordinary affair. It
took place 24 years after the alleged acts. Two of those
indicted were shewn to have been respectively four and
eight years of age at the time of the burning; three
others were declared innocent of the '* crymes libellit,"
and two others were re-tried ! An interesting question
here .irises : what is implied by the term "the goodmant
ot Langholm Castell"? Jamieson defines the term as

* See p. 279

"Goodman a Proprietor of land." Such is the definition given by

Jamieson, who adds : " The learned Sir George Mackenzie has a remark

on this head which merits observation. ' This remembers me,' he says,

01 .1 custom in Scotland which is bul gone lately in dissuetude and that

is that such as did hold their lands from a Prince were called lairds, bul

Mich as held their lands from a subject, though they were large and their

iiiperior very noble, were only called good-men from the old French word

i horn me, which was the title of a Master of a Family."'

342 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

"a proprietor of land," and it is clear that it indicates
at least a holder of lands above the status of a vassal or
tenant.

There has long lived a tradition in the district, that
in addition to the Castle of Langholm there was a tower
or house of considerable size during the sixteenth cen-
tury. From the vaulted cellars of that portion of the
Buccleuch Hotel which abuts on the High Street of
Langholm, it has been conjectured that these formed part
of a strong house or tower. We have not been able to
discover any direct mention of such a tower in the records,
and the building in question, in all probability, partook
no more of the nature of a "tower" than did the Murt-
holm or the Stubholm of the early sixteenth century.
The identity of this Johnne Armstrong of Langholm is
a matter of pure speculation. Amongst those indicted for
the burning was "Johnne Armstrong in the Hoilhous."
This was the son of Christie of Barngleis, and the brother
of Robert and Archie, to whom Christie deputed his
duties as keeper of Langholm Castle on behalf of Lord
Maxwell the Warden.

During the period 1578-1590, when Lord Maxwell's for-
tunes "swelled like the Solway, but ebbed like its tide,"
Langholm Castle was the object of more than one mili-
tary expedition. When Lord Maxwell was restored to
favour and made Earl of Morton, on the execution of the
Regent Morton. in 1 581 , Angus was so jealous of his
privileged and powerful position that he made an inroad
into Kskdale, burned and ravaged Maxwell's lands and
also captured the Castle. By an order of the Secret
Council dated 17 Sep., 1583, Johnstone and Christie Arm-
strong were ordered to deliver the place and fortalice of
Langholm to John, Earl of Morton, within 48 hours, on

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 343

pain of rebellion. Maxwell, however, appears to have
re-taken the Castle, for in June, 1585, we find Serope
writing to Wolsingham as follows: — 4< ... I am
advertysed that the Lord Maxwell upon Tuesday last,
himself being present, took the House of Langholme
which was in the keeping of one of the Armstrongs
called John's Christie, but of the Lord Maxwell's own in-
herytance, and had placed therein gunners and men of
his own." But the star of Lord Maxwell set once more
in 1586. By the attainder against the family of Morton
being cancelled, the title of Earl of Morton which Max-
well had obtained, reverted to the Earl's son, and Maxwell
found himself under suspicion for his leanings towards
Romanism. It will be remembered that he was "per-
mitted " to leave the country, but, venturing on the advice
of some friends to return, he again incurred the dis-
pleasure of King James, who, though peaceable even to
timidity, was so outraged by Maxwell's insolence and by
reports of his having promised assistance to the King of
Spain in the equipment of his great Armada, that he was
forced to take action against him. As Angus had done
five years before, so now did King James. He marched
into Eskdale, destroyed Maxwell's property and burned
ln-> strongholds, including Langholm Castle. In 1597 a
Commission of the Wardenship of the West March was
granted to Andrew, Lord Ochiltree, in which the Castles
of Annan, Lochmaben, Langholm and Thrieve are
referred to as His Majesty's " oun houses." From this
and other references it may be inferred that, though
Langholm Castle was Maxwell property, yet when oc-
casion demanded, it was considered as at the command of
the Government, — " siclyke ordouris the hous of Lang-
holme at all tymes to be patent to the wardane quhen he
sail onywayis repair to the samyn."

344 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

That these various frays were the occasions of blood-
shed may safely be assumed. We remember seeing a
cutting made in one of the mounds near the Castle, where
a large quantity of human bones was dug up, doubtless
the evidence of some fierce fight on that oft-contested
field.

Buccleuch probably stayed all night at Langholm
Castle, which was afterwards to come into the possession
of his descendants, on his way to the rescue of Kinmont
Willie, and when he left next morning "Rob" Arm-
strong accompanied him.

As we shall see later, when William, Lord Cranstoun,
received the "free barony" of Langholm in 1610, the
Castle was designated its principal fortress.

No exact date can be given of the final abandonment
of the Castle as a garrisoned fort, or a place of residence.
The year 1725 has been named by some writers, but
evidence to the contrary exists. In 1726, as already
noted, James Pasley of Craig was married at the Castle
to Miss Magdalen Elliot, of Midlem Mill, whose father
had come from Branxholme to reside there about the
year 1724, as Chamberlain to the Duke of Buccleuch.
In this capacity he succeeded a Mr. Melville who had
occupied the Castle for many years. It was as Mr. Mel-
ville's guest that Graham of Claverhouse stayed there on
the night following the shooting of Andrew Hislop at
Craighaugh. In the records of the Kirk Session Mr.
Melville is mentioned in 1721, so probably he continued
to reside there until 1724.

From the Registers o( Stapelgortoun, printed as an
Appendix to this volume, it will be seen that near the end
of the sixteenth century there must have been a consider-
able number of persons living in the Castle, and in what
Lord Maxwell called "the laich housis besyde the same."

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 345

But whatever power or glory clung around it in the
brave days o( old, lives there no longer. Not as a for-
tress does it now exist, but as an historic relic set in a
frame o( hill and wood, embowered in beauty a re-
minder of the Langholm that once was but is no more.

HOLLOWS TOWER. +

There was a third kind o( strong- house scattered
throughout the Borders, built and inhabited by chiefs of
clans and by landed men. In Liddesdale alone, there were
about 50 such houses and towers. Round these towers
the mean huts and other dwellings of the vassals and re-
tainers were grouped, the whole forming the " touns," so
often mentioned in the records of the period, — so rudely
constructed that if they were burned one day they could
be quite easily rebuilt the next. These peel-towers owed
their existence to the unrest on the Borders during the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and they were the
cause of much concern to the Governments of the two
countries. The Armstrongs built a number of them
about the year 1525, and later in the century on the
English Border, the Grahams did the same. In a re-
port on the state o( the district dated 1578, Lord Hemes
mentions that "the Grahames lies biggit to thameselffis
audit or nyne greit stane housis inprynnabill for the
warden of Scotland, his power." Herries states that the

Mr. E. Bogg, in his hook '/'he Border Country (p. 31 1) refers to the
niins as "the shrivelled remains of a castle " and tells how, on asking
an elderly woman its name, she answered "Ah dinna ken it as ony neam
ai o\ its been caa'd toad castle ivver sin a' was a wee lassie." It may
not l)i> out of place to remark that, if this is a correct rendering of the
Speech of the elderly woman, it will cause- no surprise to Langholm people
that she did not know the name of the Castle ! The same writer refers
t>> the Ewes as the Erries and says that the source ofthe Teviot is in
Eskdalemuir ! !

t This is popularly called " Gilnockie Tower," owing, of course, to
its connection with Johnie Armstrong of Gilnockie.

346 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

money to build these places was " gottin in Scotland
sensyne " the Battle of Solway Moss in 1542. As to their
location, they are described as being " foranent your
Majesties" Kingdom."

A considerable number of these places, even those of
chieftains and lairds, were very mean dwellings, for it was
not until the middle of the eighteenth century that the
average dwelling house on the Scottish Border could be
said to afford any degree of comfort, indeed, scarcely even
adequate shelter. Many of the so-called "towers," named
on the map of 1590,+ accompanying this chapter, were pro-
bably not peel-towers at all, but merely houses disting-
uished from their neighbours by being built of stone,
or by their being the abode of the chief of a section of a
clan or of a laird. Occasionally, the houses were built
entirely of wood, a custom reflected still by the occur-
rence of the name " Woodhouse," both in Annandale and
Eskdale. Those wooden or " little stone houses " were
the rendezvous of the raiders and " broken-men " of the
Borders, and they thus obtained a certain distinction.
It was on this account that the Wardens agreed, about
the year 1525, to prohibit the erection of such places,
and when the heads of the Armstrong clan erected theirs,
complaint was made by the Earl of Northumberland
that such action was a violation of the truce. However,
in the year 1535, the Scottish Parliament passed an Act
requiring every landed man having one hundred pound
land of new extent, to build a "barmkyn" for the pro-
tection of his vassals. He might also build within the
" barmkyn " a tower for himself, if he so desired. Men
of smaller means were to build smaller places, and all

* James VI.
t This map seems to have been made to illustrate the report of a Survey
of the Scottish Borders, — one of several undertaken by the English
Government.

CASTLES AM) TOWERS. 347

the buildings erected under the Act were to lie completed

ill two vears. 1 11 1552 there were five such towers mark-
ed on the English portion of the Debateable Land, and
on the portion between the Esk and the Lyne there were
eight towers belonging to the Grahams.

Oi all the peel-towers and houses, built either under
this Act or earlier, the only one now remaining in a state of
preservation sufficient to show its original construction, is
the Hollows Tower, a drawing of which is given overleaf.

The Tower, which is built of red sandstone and oblong
in form, measures 60 feet in length by 46 feet at the
ends and in general features corresponds with similar
erections on both sides of the Border. The walls are
about nine feet in thickness and about 70 feet in height.
The entrance was secured by two doors, the outer of oak
studded with large nails, the inner of grated iron. When,
after the union of the Crowns, determined efforts were
made to stamp out the disorders of the " broken-men,"
the Scottish Parliament ordered all these " iron yettis "
to be removed and converted into irons for the plough —
which strikes one as a somewhat mechanical and artificial
way of fulfil ling the prophecies. The walls were of such
strength that when the Tower was set on fire, either by
the enemy or in self-defence, little damage was done
to the main structure. A noticeable feature of the Hol-
lows Tower, which to this day attracts the eye of the
spectator, was the beacon - turret. The Laws of the
Marches required the owner of every castle or tower
to give a warning signal of any night-fray by means of
Mire in the topps of the castle or towre." Failure to
give this signal incurred a penalty of three shillings and
four-pence. The decorated cornice work, which can be
seen in the illustration, adds something of architectural

M^^'. -*£; '**§£ ^

- \.-V

CASTLES WD TOWERS. 349

beauty to a Tower whose main purpose was massive
strength.

Its situation is a level platform on the banks of the
Esk, but, viewed from the east, it suggests just such a
position o( strength as those grim old chieftains of the
Border usually selected, and merits the description of

the balladist :

" Where on Esk side thou standest stout.''

The Esk, indeed, is its strongest outer fortification. On
the west side an artificial fosse can still be traced.

Of the date o( the building o( the Tower it is not pos-
sible to speak with certainty. But a reliable approxim-
ation is given in the date of the indictment, viz., 1528,
brought by Lord Dacre against Riche Grahame of Esk,
accusing him of giving warning to the Armstrongs that
Dacre intended to enter the Debateable Land with 2000
men, to destroy "divers houses and edifices there built
contrary to the form and tenor of the truces, by John
Armstrang, otherwise called John the larde." It would
appear from this, therefore, that the Hollows Tower was
erected prior to 1528. And it does not seem likely that
the date was earlier than 1524, for in that year Dacre
writes to Wolsey that 'Mitill or nothing is lefte upon the
frontours of Scotland without it be parte of old howses,
whereof the thak and covreinges ar taken awey, bireason
whereof they cannot be brint."

That the Hollows Tower was the objective of Lord
Dacre cannot be doubted, for it will be remembered that
ow the night of the raid, when Dacre burned the " Hole-
house," Johnie Armstrong went down and burned Neth-
erby, and in the subsequent complaints the two Wardens
played off the one against the other.

Not a few people of considerable authority as students

350 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

of the history and antiquities of Eskdale* hold the opinion
that the Tower still standing- at the Hollows was not the
one in which Johnie Armstrong himself lived, and that
his Tower stood at the eastern end of Gilnockie Bridge.
The present Hollows Tower, they say, was not built for
many years after his death. This opinion is based on a
remark supposed to have been made by Lord Herries in
a report, dated 1578, to the effect that certain of these
houses or peel-towers had been "recently erected," and
this being so, they could hardly be attributable to the
Act of 1535, which, it is said, was a sort of panic Act,
passed to repair a misjudgment on the part of the Gov-
ernment. But in the text of Lord Herries' report given
in the Privy Council Records, these words do not occur.
Besides, the Act of 1535 demanded nothing beyond the
building of a barmkyn — the erection of the tower itself
was left to the option of the " landit men." The barm-
kyns were to be "of stane and lyme contenand three
score futis of the square, ane -eln thick and vj elnys
heicht," and were to be " biggit and completit within twa
yeres." Moreover, as we have just shewn, the towers
referred to by Herries were stated to be " foranent " Scot-
land, so that the whole related argument as to Hollows
and the other Armstrong towers falls to the ground.
But, even assuming that such words did occur in the
report, and that Lord Herries was absolutely accurate in
his use of the word "recently," the very fact that he
does not explicitly name the Hollows Tower as one of the
recent erections, would provide a reasonable presumption
against the argument just mentioned. Again, if Hollows
Tower was not built until many years after Johnie Arm-

* Amongst these we may name the late Mr. T. J. Carlyle of Temple-
hill, and the late Mr. Geo. R. Rome; also Mr. Matthew Welsh, and Air.
Clement Armstrong1.

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 351

strong's death, where was the "Hole-house" which Oacre
argues was on "a parcel! of the Debatable grounde," and

which was admitted to belong to "John Armstrang of
Stubilgorton ?" So far as we are acquainted with the
records of the sixteenth century, there is no reference
therein to more than one such house or tower on the
Debateable Land owned by Johnie Armstrong.

The second and stronger argument urged in favour of
the alternative site at Gilnockie Bridge is, that certain
old people, who were recently living in Canonby, spoke
confidently of hearing persons, who were in full manhood
and womanhood at that date, tell of stones being dug
or quarried from the old Tower for the building of the
Gilnockie Bridge, just as the stones from the old Priory
were used in the construction of Canonby Bridge. In
Canonby there is still a large body of opinion, based on the
above traditions, in favour of the Bridge site. Against
this opinion there is that of the Rev. Dr. John Russell,
parish minister of Canonby, who wrote his narrative for
Sinclair's Statistical Account in 1793, the year after Gil-
nockie Bridge was built, and who nevertheless makes
no allusion to any such fact ; yet he must have been
fully aware of this quarrying, had it ever taken place.
Curiously enough, he too discusses this question of the
sites, and says : " The spot of ground to which the east
end of the [Gilnockie] Bridge is joined, is indeed called
to this day 4 Gill-knocky,' but it does not exhibit the
smallest vestige of mason work, and, therefore, could not
have been the site of the chieftain's Castle, which, from
the name, has been commonly supposed." Dr. Russell
then describes its invulnerable position: — "a promon-
tory giving a curve to the river Esk which washes its
three unequal sides, and being steep and rocky is scarce-

352 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

lv accessible but on the land side, which has been fenced
by a deep fosse, over which very probably a drawbridge
had been thrown."* Apart from Dr. Russell's individual
opinion, had there been such a use made of the stone as
tradition affirms, he would have been cognisant o(
it, and it is unthinkable that he should have omitted all
mention of it. It is also significant that the Rev. James
Donaldson, writer of the parish notes for the New
Statistical Account of 1841, gives no hint to any such
tradition. Indeed, he does not even name the Gilnockie
Bridge site, though he, too, ought to have been familiar
with the report. We may also quote Sir Walter Scott's
unquestioning acceptance of the Hollows Tower being
Johnie Armstrong's residence. f "His place of residence
(now a roofless tower), was at the Hollows, a few miles
from Langholm, where its ruins still serve to adorn a
scene which, in natural beauty, has few equals in Scot-
land." On the other hand, the association of 'Gilnockie'
with Armstrong's name, and with his residence, is cer-
tainly a point in favour of the Bridge site. Pennanti
makes a brief reference to the latter but makes no mention
of its being claimed as the site of Armstrong's tower.
After describing the scenery on the Esk as this place,
which, he says is "great and enchanting," he refers to
two precipices: "One called Carsidel : the other Gil-
nockie's Garden : the last named is said to have been the
retreat of a celebrated outlaw ; but originally had been a
small British fortress, guarded on one side by the steeps
of the precipice, on the other by a deep entrenchment."
The history of the Tower consists mostly in a series of

* This accurate description suggests such a fori as we describe in
Chapter V., rather than the site of a Border peel-tower.

t See Introduction to "Johnie Armstrong" in Border Minstrelsy.
X Tour, Vol. I., p. 87.

CASTLES AM) TOWERS. 353

raids attacks, captures, and re-captures, which have
already been set forth in the foregoing pages. The
Armstrongs seem to have occupied it, and, in the latter
part of the sixteenth century, Stakeheueh with it, until
the early part of the seventeenth century.

One further point about the Hollows Tower may be
noted. The accompanying drawing is to illustrate an
inscribed stone which forms the door-sill o( the vault.
The origin of these markings is now, of course, impos-
sible of discovery. Whether they were carved by Johnie
Armstrong himself on one of his idle days, or whether,
touched by an archaeological fancy, and discovering the
stone somewhere in the neighbourhood, he had sought
in this way to preserve it, — it is impossible to conjecture.
But one is struck with the resemblance it bears to some
of the ancient inscribed stones so learnedly explained by
Professor Simpson, and to those discovered at Rosa-
penna, in the north of Ireland, in September, 191 1.

STAKEHKUCH.

As already mentioned, this Tower stood on the Irvine
Burn and was the stronghold of the clan of Irving. The
name of Auchenrivock seems also to have been applied
to it. Its position was one excellently fortified by nature.
The deep gill of the burn was on its northern side, and
on the east, there was a steep declivity towards the Esk,
which the Tower, set picturesquely on the top of the
knowe, overlooked. These Border peels were frequently
5ft in couples, and often so that the line of fire from
the one was crossed, roughly, at right angles, by the
tnc from the other. Thus Stakeheueh and Hollows
seem to have been complementary, and communications

354

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

4MI000P

INSCRIBED STONE IN GILNOCKIE TOWER.

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 355

by signals could be easily picked up, especially when the
beacon blazed from the crow-stepped turret of Hollows.
But Stakeheuch is undoubtedly of earlier date than
Hollows, for in a letter of Dacre, elated 29th October,
1513, i.e., just after Flodden, he describes how his
brother, Sir Christopher, made a raid into Scotland, and
"on Thursday he burned the Stakehugh, the manor-place
of Irewvn and the hamlets down Irewvn Burn."

It would appear from a reference already quoted that
in 1562 Stakeheuch was in the possession or occupation
q{ "Johnnes Christie Armstrong"," that is, Christie of
Barngleis, son o( fohn of Gilnockie. This statement,
We are inclined to think, is due to some mistake on the
put of the English investigator, who, perhaps, confused
Stakeheuch with the Hollows Tower, which, it is notice-
able, he omits to mention, just as he omits Langholm
Castle.* However this may be, it is perfectly clear that
at tiiat date the Irvings had not evacuated Stakeheuch,
tor, as we have seen, kk Richie Irving in Staikheug"h and
Ekkie Irving his brother" are included in the respite
by James VI. to the laird of Johnstone, after the slaying
Of Lord Maxwell.

Prom the drawing, it will be seen that only a very small
fragment now remains of this ancient Border strong-hold.
rhe illustration, however, gives a very inadequate idea
ol the original size of the Tower. But from pieces of
wall standing here and there about the knowe, we may
Conjecture that at one time it was a place of considerable
strength, certainly not inferior to the Hollows itself.
Here, as at Langholm Castle, there is a ventilation hole
near the ground on the west wall, but it is not clearly
Seen in the illustration.

See page 339.

356 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

STAKEHEUCH.

OTHER ESKDALE TOWERS.

Throughout Eskdale and the neighbouring" dales,
towers of varying dimensions and degrees of import-
ance were to be found. These are indicated on the map
accompanying this chapter, and a glance at it will show
numbers of such places in the Border dales. It will not
be forgotten that the great majority of them were simply
houses, probably of stone, larger than the ordinary
houses, and constructed, more or less, with the view of
their having at any moment to be defended from a sudden
attack. Naturally, the Debateable Land contained a
large proportion of them. Wherever the Armstrongs
exercised an influence, towers sprang up, and their
occupation of so many on the Debateable Land gave
them a very tangible advantage in their own raids, and

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 35?

in the reprisals against them. Amongst other places
where such towers were erected, mention may be made
of: — WOODHOUSELEES. This place-name implies that
here stood one of the wood houses of the Border, — built of
wood so that the damage inflicted upon them during the
Border raids might be the sooner repaired. It was here
that Buccleuch halted on his famous expedition to release
Kinmont Willie — " and so they reached the Woodhouse-
lee."

Kinmont's Tower of Sark was, of course, a famous
place, known also as the Tower of Morton. It was
this place that "the bold Buccleuch" made his base, —
in which he arranged his final plans the night before
his rescue of Kinmont.

There was a tower at Ye Rydings, and another at
Ye Mote.

Reference to the map will show one marked belonging
to kfrancie of Canobie, and another, a little to the
south of it, belonging to Daivy of Canobie. As to who
ffrancie and Daivy were, the writers regret that they
have to plead ignorance.

To the west stood the Tower of Barngleis, built
probably by Christie Armstrong, son of Gilnockie, who,
as we have seen, was keeper of Langholm Castle.

There were Towers at Archerbeck, Thorniewhats,
and MuMBYHIRST. We believe that fragments of the
last may still be seen in the present farm buildings.

BROOM HOLM would probably be built by the Arm-
strongs, who, we read, occupied it in 1569, and some
writers give even an earlier date. It stood until about
1740 when it was taken down by the owner, who soon
repented of his action.*

Statistical Account, 1793.

3j8 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The Tower of Ye Langhame, marked on the map, is
obviously Langholm Castle, and it is of interest to note
that no other building of this nature is shewn. The
Castle being the place indicated on the map, then the
44 Rob o' ye Langhame," who helped in the rescue of
Kinmont Willie, would be Robert Armstrong, son of
Christie of Barngleis, keeper of Langholm Castle. So
that apparently as late as 1596, the Armstrongs were
still acting as deputies for Lord Maxwell.

Stablegorden, mentioned on the map, may be the
remains of Barntalloch Castle, or, possibly, a house
belonging to Johnie Armstrong, to whom the lands of
Stapelgortoun, along with those of Langholm and other
places, were given in 1525.

A noteworthy omission by the geographer is the ab-
sence of any indication of the Towers of Wauchope.
This is singular, because Calfield is reputed to have
been a place of more than the usual strength. Where
the Tower stood it is difficult to say precisely. Some
antiquaries incline to the belief that, what we (on page
78) have named an ancient British fort, was really the
site of Archie o' the Calfield's Tower. In this connection
we may mention that this year Mr. Matthew Welsh, an
antiquary of repute in Eskdale, found amongst the stones
of this place the bowl o( an old clay pipe, which some
authorities declare to be Jacobean.

There appears, also, to have been a Tower at Big-
hames, and another is mentioned by the Statist of 1793
as being at Neis-hill, though possibly this and Calfield
may be one and the same place.

Proceeding up the valley of the Esk we find Towers
marked at Craig and Carlesgill/

* The latter may be the Carnisgill mentioned on p. 299 as the resi-
dence of Xicholl Batie.

CASTLES AM) TOWERS. 359

Amongst the possessions of the Beattisons we have
the following Towers : Corse, called Cross on the map.
This name is usually associated with 4i dyke-rygg," hence
the modern name " Croosdykes " ; Dandy Baitie's ;
NiCHOL OF YE SHEELD's mentioned on page 299, who
was probably a son of John of the Score ; and Andrewe
Battye's on the White Esk, probably the Score.

Towers are also indicated at BOMBIE, WATSTERKER,
and BURNEFOOTE now called Bankburnfoot, shewn on
the map as at the junction oi the Black' and White Esks,
which is much too far up.

There is also a Tower marked at YE CROOKES, traces
o( which, we understand, were clearly discernible until
quite a recent date.

The Rev. James Green, the Statist o( Westerkirk
parish in 1 84 1 , mentions that there were then visible the
remains of an old Castle at Glendinning and another at
Westerhall.

Coming now to the Ewes valley, we find that here, also,
there was an abundance of Towers. Probably, the most
important was that of Arkleton, on the site of which
the present mansion house stands. Moulded stones from
this old Tower have been built into the walls oi the house.

In the neighbourhood of the present kirk o( Hues,
stood the Tower ol~ EcHY or Ekke GlNGLES, and on the
cast bank o( the river, near to Glendiven, that of Tho.
OF YE ZlNGLES. Reference has already been made to the
tact that the " Chingles " arc mentioned amongst those
who rode with Buccleuch to the rescue o( Kinmont
Willie/

Seep. 253 The proprietors of the "Chingles" were Armstrongs.
'" '553 lne Bishop of Carlisle made complaint thai a number of Arm-
Btrongs and their allies had made a raid into Cumberland. Among those
be mentions is " Will's Jock ol the Gingles."

;6o

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The accompanying illustration is of the house in Ewes,
atone time known as the Waterhead, and now as Fiddle-
ton Bank End. Almost on the site of this snug little

fcfil^ftori*» » ,^^^^^^1 flHflfe .^l^^l *''•';':

/^^

I 1

-jUbB^Km

FIDDLETON BANK END.

farm, tenanted for the last ioo years by McVitties,
stood the strong Tower of Glenvoren, marked on the
map as that of Hobbie o' Glenvore. A few years ago,
whilst digging in the stack-yard a little to the west of his
house, Mr. Walter McVittie, an antiquary well versed in
all the ancient lore of Ewesdale, came upon a piece of
very substantial masonry which he believes to have been
part of Hobbie's Tower. This Hobbie was of the clan of
Elliot, among whom "Hobbie" was a common Christian
name. Musgrave, writing to Burghley in 1583, refers to
"Hobbe Eliot called Scotes Hobbe . . . Gowan
Eliot called the Clarke ; Hobbe Eliot his brother."* On

Dr. Borland's Border Raids and Reivers, p. 171,

CASTLES AND TOWERS. 361

the same side of Ewes as Glenvoren, there was a Tower
belonging to Runion ov ye hiss, who also was an Arm-
strong. In the charter o( 1535 to Ninian Armstrong this
place is called k4 Park." At Burnfoot (o( Ewes) there
was a Tower marked as belonging to one t4 Archie of
WHITHAUGHE," and it was also probably an Armstrong
stronghold. Up amongst the hills on the west of Ewes
Water the remains have been unearthed of an ancient
building. The site is near the junction of Wolfhope and
Meikledale Burns, and the building may have been that
of Runion, or possibly, one of the dwelling places of
Simon Little, first laird of Meikledale.

Other peel-towers doubtless existed atone time in Esk-
dale, but those here enumerated are the most noteworthy.
Scarcely one of them but was the scene of some stirring,
and often deadly, encounter between raiders or clans at
feud, but now the grass grows green over their founda-
tions, and the men who built them and lived eventful
days within their walls, have passed into the shadows ;
lew of their names are even engraven upon the rude
stones of the Eskdale kirkvards.

CHAPTER XVII.

BATTLES AND RAIDS.

EW districts in the country have been the scene of
more tumult and fighting than the Scottish Border.
From the earliest times until the end of the sixteenth
century, if not later, the land had scarcely rest or peace.
The early inhabitants of the Borders opposed the Romans
step by step ; in the centuries which followed the aban-
donment of the Roman ambition to subdue Scotland, the
lowlands were the scene of internecine strife — the battle-
field of many a fierce conflict. The Saxon invasion
changed the parties, but continued the strife ; the Danish
pirates followed, and swarmed over Annandale and Esk-
dale, not without bloodshed and dire combat. Scarcely
had the Cumbrian kingdom been merged into that of
Scotland, when the wars of independence began, — those
struggles between the two countries, on the part of
England for supremacy, and on the part of Scotland for
national existence, which virtually lasted until the Union
of the Crowns. Being adjacent to England, it was in-
evitable that Eskdale should become the scene of much
of the guerilla fighting, into which the wars of independ-
ence finally settled. For the frays and feuds and forays,
which were characteristic of the Borders in the sixteenth
century, did not arise, as many people seem to assume,
through an unequal distribution of original sin or natural
depravity, but were the inevitable and logical outcome
of the political relationships existing in the preceding
centuries between the two countries.

In summarily reviewing the story of the great battles

BATTLES AND RAIDS. 363

which occurred prior to the cud o( the fifteenth century,
it is necessary only to say that the men of Eskdale were
in them. When the forces mustered for the Armageddon
o\ Arthuret, the Christian Cumbrians from Eskdale,
not only bore their part under Rhydderch Ilael, but the
valley itself heard the shouting and the tumult, and saw
the garments rolled in blood. When David I., ambitious
to recover the lost territories of the northern English
counties, invaded England and suffered so grievous a
defeat in the Battle of the Standard — which finally
settled the map of Great Britain — Eskdale would send
its quota to aid its King. 44 Men from the lowlands of
Scotland were there, armed with cuirasses and long spears;
archers from the southland * dales,' or valleys of the
rivers that run into Tweed or Solway ; troopers from the
Border mountains who rode small, but strong and active,
horses ..." A special contingent of Cumbrians
with men from Teviotdale formed one of the wings of
the Scots army, and it is not difficult to picture the men
from Teviotdale recruiting their ranks from Ewesdale
and Eskdale as they went to join the King.

At BANNOCKBURN, too, Eskdale was represented, but
alas ! its men fought against the Bruce and Scotland.
At that date Wauchope and Stapelgortoun and Lang-
holm were in the possession of the Lindsays, who fought
tor Edward in that epoch-making battle ; and Ewes was
under the domination of Robert de Clifford, Edward's
vassal lord, or of the Lovels who, though possessors of
large tracts of territory on the Borders, yet devotedly
adhered to the English cause.

Hut before the Battle of OTTERBURN in 1388, the divided
allegiance of the early barons had given place to a defi-
nite national sentiment, and, as we have seen, the Eskdale

364 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

barons fought bravely for the Douglas, and took their
followers with them to the memorable fight. So they
did in 15 13, on that woeful day of Flodden. On this
dire and stricken field, one of the grayest names in Scot-
tish history, Eskdale men fought and died by the side of
their defeated Sovereign, and in many a home in Esk-
dale, Wauchopedale, and Ewesdale, there was "dool
and wae " when the men returned not, and instead there
came that terrible news, and that inexpressible dismay
which settled like a pall upon the Border dales —

" Dool and wae for the order, sent our lads to the Border !
The English tor ance, by guile wan the day :
The flowers of the forest, that fought aye the foremost,
The prime of our land, are cauld in the clay.

We'll hear nae mair lilting at the ewe-milking ;

Women and bairns are heartless and wae :
Sighing and moaning in ilka green loaning —

The flowers of the forest are a' wede awae."

Buccleuch was one of the few Border lords who returned
from the field. The Maxwells were there ; the Arm-
strongs fought by their side ; the Irvings fell, and also
the Johnstones and the Lindsays —

"Scotia felt thine ire, O Odin,

On the bloody field of Flodden ;
There our fathers fell with honour

Round their king and country's banner."*

And again, at Solway Moss, in 1542, when the
military prowess of Scotland was tied hand and foot by
internal jealousies, and the heart of its King was broken
by a defeat which had hardly an atoning incident, Eskdale
men did their part.

The Battle of Solway Moss was a part of the perplex-
ing game which Scotland and England played during
the sixteenth century, each intriguing, openly or secretly,
against the other, with the result that the whole Border-

* From Teribus, the famous Common Riding song of Hawick.

BATTLES AND RAIDS. 365

land became the theatre of lawlessness and disorder. It
has long been believed by superficial readers, and by that
mysterious personage "the man in the street"- who
does not read at all — that the Raids of the sixteenth
century were wicked and unprovoked incursions by
Scottish robbers into the peaceful cattle sheds of their
English neighbours. The word "mosstrooper" is
tacitly understood to be synonymous with "Scottish
Borderer." Needless to say, such an idea is quite
unhistorical. The Border Raids arose, not from a
feeble grasp o( the Commandments by the men o( the
Scottish dales, not from sheer wantonness or ill-temper,
nor yet from a preference for English beef or mutton.
Nor had the Raids their origin in a dislike of their
English neighbours, though dislike there most assuredly
was, and it was mutual. They arose, rather, from the
frequent wars between the two countries and the con-
sequent impoverishment of the Borders, which were,
of necessity, more susceptible to these unsatisfactory
relationships than other parts of the country. They err
greatlv who assume that the Raids were always com-
mitted by the Scots. Some of the most cruel forays
were carried out by English leaders — men like Dacre,
Hertford, and Wharton. Probably no raid by the Arm-
strongs, Elliots, Scotts, or Beattisons equalled in callous
cruelty Hertford's progress through Roxburghshire, or
Wharton's through Dumfriesshire. Raiding was a
game of beggar-my-neighbour, in which the winners
were not always Scotsmen.

The continual wars between the two countries pro-
duced a state of economic stagnation, which made it
impossible for trade to develop on the Borders. In the
dales there was no industry save that of agriculture, which

366 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

was rude and elementary in the extreme. Even so, it
was useless to spend time or labour upon its operations.
There was no certainty of ever reaping the crop which
might be sown. As a result, the entire Borderland was
in a condition of the most hopeless poverty — "the
poorest countrv in Europe," it was declared to be.
Housed in miserable hovels, little above the condition
of booths, with no systematic occupation, with a soil so
stubborn or marshy that even the simplest agriculture
seemed a hopeless task, the Borderer, nevertheless, was
faced with the necessity of living. And all these forces
co-operating, produced the conditions which made moss-
trooping almost a lawful trade. Concerning the morality
of mosstrooping or freebooting, a lot of pious nonsense
has been written. The mosstrooper did not consider for
one moment that his raiding was theft. It is said that
he never counted his beads more zealously than when
setting out on a raiding expedition. Johnie Armstrong
prided himself on his honesty. Raiding was not vulgar
stealing ; it was an act of war. The Border clans went
into a foray, often in broad daylight, with banners
flying, and sometimes with music. An act, which in
times of peace is piracy, is regarded as lawful in times of
war. And for the most part Border raiding was war.
Added to all these facts were the conditions of tenure and
vassalage clinging round a rigid system o( feudalism.
The tenants were at the mercy of the barons and landed
men, who, whilst openly frowning at raiding, secretly
encouraged it for their own personal ends. Even the
Kings of the two countries were not oblivious to what
was going on, and if they did not actually promote the
disorders they were content to reap some benefit from
them. Indeed, the English Wardens frequently reported

BATTLES AND RAIDS. 367

to their sovereign that the Scottish King was fully aware
of what was being done, and many of the incursions of
Wharton and others were made with the approval of the
English sovereign.

So it came to pass, that, to deal with this exceptional
state o( affairs, an exceptional code o( laws was slowly
compiled. The Borders became "a state within a state,"
subject to the common law, it is true, but a state whose
inter-relationships were regulated by customs and stat-
utes which did not obtain elsewhere. These laws were
enacted by the national Parliament, or might be the
recommendations of special commissioners; or minutes
oi agreement between the Wardens ; or even customs
observed by the dalesmen. Gradually, they formed a
compact, though intricate, system of jurisprudence which
perhaps could only be fittingly compared with the many
enactments of the Mosaic law, having the rabbinical com-
ments and decisions superadded. These main* laws and
usages were codified by Bishop Nicholson of Carlisle in
1705 under the title of Leges Marcliianim, which soon
became the recognised authority on all Border laws and
customs."

The enactments covered a very large field of action.
They related to stealing, trials and the course of proced-
ure thereat, harbouring and tracing fugitives, conditions
relating to days of truce, Warden's meetings, fines, mur-
ders, fire-raising, + perjury, receiving stolen goods, law-
ful and unlawful prisoners, + hunting, sowing, reaping,

* Others, notably Lord Wharton, Sir James Balfour, and Mr. Richard

Bell of Carlisle, also did valuable work in the same held.

+ Persons accused of murder and fire-raising were tried by the Sher-
iffs, as these were Crown pleas.

J The people of Eskdale and Ewesdale, it is said, had a practice of
taking their own countrymen prisoners, and then ransoming them or let-
ting them to surety. This was legislated against by an Act ol' 1567.

368 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

and felling timber in the opposite realm, wounding, the
valuing o( stolen cattle,* feuds, and the more serious
"deadly" feuds. As may be imagined such matters
provided scope for very serious disagreement, and not
a few of the raids and disorders arose through an inter-
pretation of the law which the other side would not
accept. A considerable amount of legal machinery was
necessary for the effective administration of so complex a
code, and the whole Borderland became a compound of
an armed camp and an assize court. To assist the
Warden's officers to follow law breakers, bloodhounds
were kept at certain specified places. On the English
side of the Border there was established a line of com-
munications with setters, watchers, and sleuth-hounds,
ready by day and night to track freebooters, whilst fords
and hill-passes were watched and guarded, t Signals
were given by bonfires on selected hills. In Eskdale,
we have a reminiscence of this custom in the names
Warbla and Watch Knowe, on both of which, no doubt,
the signal fires have burned during many an exciting
night. In Liddesdale, Tinnis Hill was the beacon hill.
The cases arising out of these Border Laws were tried
at the Wardens' Courts. These Courts were generally
held on the Scottish side, and the day of the Court was
a day of truce. The Borders were divided into three
sections, called the East, Middle, and West Marches,
and a Warden, at £100 a year, was set over each. The
West March included Eskdale, Ewesdale, and Wauchope-

* For instance, the lawful value for an ox was 13s. <\d., a cow \os., and
a sheep 25.

f Pennant says the law relating- to what he calls " slough doggs " did
not come into force until the reign of James I. of England. He gives a list
of places where the dogs had to be kept. There were nine dogs in all —
one of which had to be kept "at the foot of Sarks," and another "at the
Moot." — Totir, Vol. III., p. 308.

BATTLES AND RAIDS. 369

dale, though Ewesdale was occasionally included in the
Middle March, owing, no doubt, to its nearness to Rox-
burghshire.

Examples have already been given o( clan-raids and
forays, and the following events, partaking of the nature
o\ raiding, are cited to illustrate the condition o( the
Borders during the seventeenth century.

As early as 1504 the condition of affairs on the Borders
was engaging the attention of James IV., who deter-
mined to investigate them in his own august person, and
if possible to restore order. In this wise originated his
famous Raid o( Eskdale. The people of Eskdale were
then outlawed and l4 at the horn." James made elab-
orate preparations for the visit, even writing- to the
English King towards " keping of the bordowris agane
the Raid of Eskdale." The King's pavilions were re-
paired for the occasion, and he got a new scarlet cloak,
the cost o( which is duly set forth in the Lord Treasurer's
accounts : —

" Item, the vj day of August, foriiij elne scarlet, to be ane cloak
to the King* agane the Raid of Eskdale, ilk elne iij It. ; summa xij It."

" Item, for iij £ elne wellus to bordonr the samyn, ilk elne xl.v. ;
summa \ ij It."

" Item, for sewing1 silk to the samyn, xvjd

" Item, for v quartans taffeti to the collair of the samyn, vijs."

From these "items" it would appear that the garment cost
a grateful country the moderate sum of £\g 8s. 4d. Scots.,
but the one-and-fourpence for sewing silk was perhaps for
"ane jacat." In his zeal against the Eskdale "thevis"
James was not unmindful of other interests. We read
oi his having with him a silver chalice, ecclesiastical vest-
ments, altar cloths, and splints, bucklers, cross-bows, and
arrows. The pavilions were sent off from Edinburgh in
two carts, which performed the journey in 33 days. This
item was an expensive one, costing £\() 4s. od. There

37o LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

was "payit to thaim for ilk cart of tua cartis vj\s\ on the
day . . . summa xix//. iiijj." Being' fond of music, the
King brought "organis" with him into Kskdale, prob-
ably the first which had as yet been in the valley, and also,
probably, the last for many generations following. As
well as the " organis " there came Italian minstrels and
" tua Inglis wemen that sang in the Kingis pailyoun,"
and pipers, — local men they seem to have been, who
were paid at Dumfries — "and whilst numbers of the un-
fortunate marauders were seized and brought in irons
to the encampment, executions and entertainments ap-
pear to have succeeded each other with extraordinary
rapidity.'' Perhaps of equal importance for the King's
pleasure and comfort, was "a maister cuke," who re-
ceived the sum of eighteen shillings and fourpence "for
ane litill barrell with grene gynzear | quhilk he tuke
with the King in Eskdale." A retinue of considerable
size must have followed the King, for in it were not only
musicians and cooks, but courtiers, judges, ministers of
law, huntsmen and falconers, and morris-dancers. The
Lord Treasurer's accounts throw some very interesting
lights on this Raid. Here are a few selected items : —

iij li xs. were paid to the " meiist tales to fe thaim hors to Esk-
dale."

James Hog was paid fourteen shillings for carrying- the King's
armour to Eskdale.

A donation of fifty-six shillings was given to Sir Richard Cam-
ply's minstrels.

"Tua Inglis wemen " came to the royal pavilion and
sang to the Court. To them the King gave 28s.

To the Priory of Canonby, the King gave 14s. — his
customary donation to conventual houses.

* Tytler's History of Scotland, Vol. II., p. 275.
t That is, green ginger, of which James appears to have been particu-
larly fond.

BATTLES AND RAIDS.

.>/

0( course, there was serious business to be done amidst
all the gaiety and hunting. The King Joes not appear
to have gone further into Eskdale than Canonby, as we
find that, within two days of holding his Court there, he

it Lochmaben. Possibly, lie found that the trans-
portation of so much baggage farther into the valley,
where, as yet, the roads were very indifferent, was not an

matter even for the King o( Scotland.
Whilst in Canonby the King dwelt in his own pavil-
ions, but he seems to have transacted some judicial busi-
ness at the Priory, hanging, as we have seen, some of
the "thieves," but the most important part of the work

ifterwards done at Dumfries. Some of the princi-
pal Eskdale lairds were fined for non-appearance, and
more thieves were hanged. Of course, at these justice
" ores" held by the King", it was only the more im-
portant men, — barons, lairds, and chiefs o( clans, —
who were arraigned. The common free-booter was
tried in the barons' or Wardens' Courts, or by the
Sheriff. To James V. the Borders presented an attrac-
tion greater even than that o( the restoration of law and
order. The forests of Eskdalemuir and Kttrick provid-
ed him with sport, to which the pursuit and execution
ot thieves and raiders formed only an interlude. In
1534 James came to the Borders to hunt, after having
made proclamation that " na man hunt in Megotland
vskdalemure or Tweedmure unto the King is coming."
In this connection the following decree against poaching
in these royal forests was issued: — '* forsamekill, as
the deir within the lands o( Megotland and Kskdalemure
And utheris boundis ewest the Bordouris of this real me
quhairoure Soveraine Lordis progenitouris hath woum to
liave thair cheif pastyme of hunting, are not only dalie

372 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

slayne be gun n is with Scottishmen but als be the hunt-
ing oi~ Englishmen," it was proclaimed that this poreting
must be put a stop to.

The Battle of Flodden brought in its train many mis-
fortunes to the Borders. One of its immediate results
was to encourage the English King and his captains to
invade Scotland. Dacre, aided by the Armstrongs, who
had been outlawed by the Scottish Government, made his
notorious incursion into the Border dales. This occurred
one month after Flodden, when he and his troops, three
thousand cavalry and three hundred infantry, marched
through the Border villages, burning every house and
putting to the sword all the men they could seize. Hav-
ing desolated the country, with many cruelties upon a
people whose spirit had already been broken by the dis-
aster of Flodden, Dacre exultingly reported his successes
to the Council. He said he had laid waste "the watter
of Ewse being viij myles in length in the said marches,
whereupon was vii ploughs . . . lyes all and every one
of them waist now, noo corn saun upon the said ground."
He went on to say that " upon the West marches I have
burnt and destroyed the townships of Annand .
and the water of Esk from Stabulgorton down to Can-
onby, being vi myles in lenth, whereas there was in
all tymes passed four hundreth ploughes and above which
are now clearly waisted and noo man duelling in any of
them in this daye, save oonly in the towrys of Annand,
Steepel and Walghopp." This invasion was undertaken
by the order of the English King, who should have been
perfectly satisfied with Dacre's execution of his orders.
Included in this summary description of places laid waste
were Broomholme, Walghopp, Baggraye, Murtholme,
Langham, and the Water of Esk from Stabulgortoun

BATTLES AM) RAIDS. 373

down to Canonby. In the same raid Dacre reports send-
ing " diverse of my tennents oi Gillislande to the n ombre
of lx personnes in Eskdalemoor upon the middill marches,
and there they brynl vii howses, tooke and brought away
w\\ i head oi cattle and much insight." On the follow-
ing day his brother, Sir Christopher Dacre, " roode all
night into Scotland and on Thurisday in the morninge
they began upon the said middle merches and brynt
Stakeheugh with the hamletts belonging to them down
[rewyn bwrne, being the chambrelain of Scotland oune
lands and undre his reule, continewally birnyng, from
the Breke of day to oone of the clok after noon, and there
w in tooke and brought away cccc hede of cattell, ccc
shepe, certaine horses and very much insight, and slew
two men, hurte and wounded diverse other personnes
and horses and then entered Ingland ground again at
\ ij of the clok that night."*

These dangers from invasions by the English had the
effect of drawing together the various Border clans, who,
for their mutual protection, placed themselves under Lord
Maxwell, many of the lairds even, giving him bonds of
man-rent. In Liddesdale the same effect was produced,
the lairds there giving bonds to Ker of Ferniehirst.
During the vear following Dacre's raid, the unrest on the
Borders grew more pronounced, and from Eskdale, Ewes-
d ile, and Wauchope, as well as from the other dales
along the Borders, cattle-lifting and fire-raising were
rampant. No security existed either for life or propertv.
In 1 S24 apprehensions were again aroused that the English
contemplated a dash over the Marches and the headsmen
ot the elans were commanded by the Government to repair
to the Borders to be in readiness against the advance of

Sir H. Maxwell's History of Dumfries and Galloway t pp. 958-9.

374 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

the English, which, however, did not take place. The
Scottish Council now determined to clear Liddesdale
oi all "theiffis and traitouris." Ewesdale was classed
with Liddesdale in this aim, and evidently at this date
it was notorious for the lawlessness of its inhabitants.
We note this, because, at a date nearer the end of that
century, the people of Ewesdale were reported to the
authorities as " a civil people and never ride into Eng-
land." Probably, this was only a temporary lapse into
goodness, for the men of Ewes, — the Armstrongs and
Elliots and Littles, — generally did their fair share in the
raids and forays. Nor were these always directed against
their " auld enemies" across the Border. In 1524 seven-
teen of the headsmen of the Middle March undertook to
support Angus, the new Warden, in "the furth-putting
of all Liddisdale, Ewesdale, Eskdale men thair wifis and
barnis " from Teviotdale and Ettrick. Attempts were
made by the Scottish and English Governments to come
to some agreement regarding these Border tumults.
Commissioners met in 1528 at Lochmaben Stone on the
farm of Old Graitney and arranged terms of peace between
the two countries, each side agreeing to use all means to
stop the raiding. As a result of this conference the
Wardens sent out intimation to the men of Eskdale,
Ewesdale, Wauchopedale, and Annandale, that all
Englishmen unlawfully taken prisoners must be set at
liberty. A most unwise concession however, was also
made at this conference, viz., that the English King
should be at liberty to invade Liddesdale to obtain re-
dress " at his grace's pleasure " for the hurt done to his
own subjects by the freebooters of that dale/ This, as
Sir Walter Scott shows, had the effect of loosening the

* Introduction Border Mi?istrelsy.

BATTLES AM) RAIDS. 375

allegiance of the Borderers to the Scottish Crown, whom
it also placed at the mercy o( the English King and his
agents. Instead of putting out, it added fuel to the flames
which were now enwrapping the long-harassed Border-
land. These arrangements and enactments were part of
the political preliminaries to the " raid " which James V.
organised in 1529 for the capture and slaying o( the
Armstrongs and others, which the " Diurnal of Occur-
rents " reports as follows : —

"Upon the xx\i day of Juliy, the Kingis grace maid ane raid
iipoun the theves and tnik ofthame to the nombre of xxii personis
or the greitest of thame nameit Armestrangis, Ellottis, Littillis,
1 1 wenis, with ul heris."

During all these events Eskdale, as will be readily under-
stood, was in a condition of disorder approaching chaos.
Despite the suspicion that he secretly encouraged the
raiding by the clans under his jurisdiction as Warden,
Maxwell was granted new powers in 1529, and bound
himself to keep the broken-men in order. The Acts of
the Council relating to his Warden ry recount : —

" As anent the inhabitantis of Ewisdale and Eskdail, quhilk
makis dalie refis, heresschippes, slaughteris and inconvenientis,
alswele apone the leigis of this realme as apone the le^-i.s of Ing-
lande, the Lordi.s understandis thai the saii.lt.' Lord Maxwell, be
reasonne of his office of Wardenrie may call the inhabitants of
the said countre or ony of thaim For thair treasonable deidis and
proceed again is thaim as it war in Parliament and convict thaim
o( treasonne, quhilkis thai command him to do and the saidis per-
sonnis so beand convicl of treasonne the said Lord Maxwell to
have thaii eschetis both of thair landis and gudis and for his glide
service, and signatorris to be maid to him tharapon."

Remembering these tempting inducements for the main-
taining oi' order, and the sequel to the murder of Johnie
Armstrong, when within a short time thereof Maxwell
received a grant of all his lands and personal belongings
doubtless in compliance with this order of Council, —
one can easily understand how there arose a suspicion that
he had connived at the King's treachery.

376 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

One of the most disastrous raids of the sixteenth cen-
tury was that made by Lord Hertford in 1544 whilst
the Border Scots were still smarting under the defeat oC
Sol way Moss. In retaliation for the Scots people op-
posing his project to marry the Prince of Wales to the
infant Princess of Scotland, Henry VIII. sent Hertford
to reduce the Border counties to ashes, and he carried
out his commission with brutal zeal and industry. To
Hertford and not to the Scottish Reformers, as so many
erroneously believe, belongs the discredit of destroying
the sacred shrines of the Borders. Melrose, Dryburgh,
Kelso, and Jedburgh Abbeys were reduced almost to
ruins. The victorious Hertford penetrated to Edinburgh,
burning and ravaging as he went. For these operations
he was made Duke of Somerset. In the following year
Latour and Evers were sent to conclude the dire work
Hertford had so far carried on, and they again attacked
the Border abbeys, destroying the Douglas tombs in fair
Melrose. There can be no doubt that it was the bitter
memories left by these cruel raids, and the inheritance
of hate thus brought into being, which afterwards pro-
duced much of the passion and tumult amongst the
Borderers. Frequent reference has already been made
to the incursions of Lord Wharton in 1547, when with
5000 troops he over-ran the Border dales. It was, per-
haps, the most complete of all the English incursions.
It left the greater part of Dumfriesshire a smouldering
waste, a wilderness of despoiled towns and homesteads.
The dwelling-places of the clans were destroyed, on a
scale never before equalled ; their crops and property,
both "insight" and cattle, were burnt or carried off by
the raiders ; those who resisted Wharton's advance were
put to death, literally massacred, and after a devastating

BATTLKS AM) RAIDS. 377

whirl through the dales he starved the clans into submis-
sion and then received them under English '* assurance."
During these Border raids many deeds of conspicuous

bravery were performed. Several are celebrated in the
Border ballads. Heroic events were not chronicled so
much in written history as in the folk-songs, embody-
ing the traditions and poetry of the people. Sir Walter
Scott was convinced of the historical truthfulness of most
of the Border ballads. He quotes* Barbour's Bruce in
support of this handing down by recital of the deeds of
renown. Barbour thought it " unnecessary to rehearse
the account of a victory gained in Eskdale over the Eng-
lish, because

— Whasa liks, thai may her
Young' vvemen, when thai will play
Sing it among thaini ilk day, "—

a pleasing glimpse into the life of Eskdale in a far away
time. Such ballads as Kinmont Willie ; Archie o' Ca'-
field; Jock o' the Syde ; the Lads 0' Wamphray ; Chris-
tie's U7///+ and Jamie Telfer of the Fair Dodheadfi recount
deeds o( personal prowess which one can easily imagine
would set the lasses of the dales a-singing. The story
of these stirring exploits is set forth in this ballad-poetry
in a way which no modern writer can emulate, and we
shall not spoil the charm by any prosaic rehearsal.

One of the circumstances which helped to make Esk-
dale and Liddesdale the scene of so many gallant and
exciting exploits was the existence of the famous Tarras

* Introduction Border Minstrelsy.
VValtei Scotl says in his introduction to his ballad that Christie's
Will was a descendant of Johnie Armstrong and resided at Gilnockie in
the reign of Charles I.

♦ In a note appended to this ballad Sir Walter, doubtless basing the
statement on information given him by Mr. Beattie, laird of Meikledale,
■ays that at the time ol writing a family of Telfers, claiming* descent
from Jamie, resided near Lang-holm.

378 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Moss, stretching between the two dales in miles of deso-
late moss-hags and morasses. To this safe retreat the
moss-trooper betook himself when pressed by the emis-
saries of the law. The nearness of Tarras rendered it
less necessary for the " broken-men " to build peel-towers
or other strongholds. They were safer there than in stone-
houses, for the dangers associated with any attempt on
the part of strangers to penetrate its morasses were a
surer protection than "iron yettis" or masonry. Through
the midst of this sea of moss and peat-mire ran the angry
Tarras, of which it was said : —

" Was ne'er ane drooned in Tarras
Nor yet in doot,
For ere the head be doon
The harms* are oot."

44 This same Tarras Moss," says Lord Ernest Hamilton+
44 is the wildest spot in all the country side. Tarras runs
into Esk at Irvine — a red, rocky, turbulent stream, drain-
ing the peat-bogs of Roan and Hartsgarth Fell, and ever
the first to come down in time of rain. If a man follows
up the stream from Esk, he passes first through a densely
wooded linn, which gradually widens into a broad, open
moor, the upper part of which is Tarras Moss proper.
Then, some four miles up, the country narrows into a
rocky glen shut in by low, steep hills, and so for another
four miles, when he comes suddenly upon a great basin
three miles long by a mile across, all thick with birken
scrub below, and on all sides shut in by mighty hills.

* The brains. The lines refer, of course, to the rocky bed of the
si ream. An old sporting rhyme celebrates the Tarras Water thus: —

" Bilhope braes for bucks and raes,
And Carrit-haug'h for swine,
Ami Tarras for the jujniil bull-trout
If he be ta'en in time."

t Outlaws of the Marches, p. 233.

BATTLES AND RAIDS. 379

Here among the forests and treacherous bogs, of which
they alone knew the windings, the Armstrongs boasted
that they could live as softly as at home, and snap their
fingers for a year or more at all the royal troops oi Scot-
land."

We need give but one illustration of the splendid
use to which the moss-troopers put this great weapon
which Nature had so thoughtfully placed at their hands.
Hearing that the Armstrongs contemplated an incursion
into England in 1598, Sir Robert Cary resolved to pene-
trate into their own country, and await a favourable op-
portunity of taking the chief outlaws. He accordingly
marched to Carebhill in Liddesdale with 200 horse, and
there built himself a camp, in which he remained from
the middle of June to the end of August. But the Arm-
strongs, hearing o( his approach, had betaken themselves
to their mountain-fastness in Tarras. " Believing them-
selves to be perfectly secure, they sent me word," says
Cary in his Memoirs, "that 1 was like the first puff of a
haggis — hottest at the first — and bade me stay there as
long as the weather gave me leave ; they would stay in
Tarras wood till I was weary of lying in the waste, and
when I had my time, and they no whit the worse, they
would play their part which should keep me waking the
next winter." Whilst this waiting game was being
patiently played out, the Armstrongs, a tradition relates,
sent a party into England where they harried Sir Robert
Cary's folds. On their return to Tarras, they sent him
one of his own cows, and a message to the effect that
tearing he would be short of provisions, they were send-
ing him some English beef! Sir Robert, however, kept
quietly to his plan. He sent 150 horsemen round by a
long detour to the Ewesdale side of Tarras and blocked

38o LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

up this and other passes. He then attacked the Arm-
strongs from the English side and compelled them to
flee. Five of the chief outlaws were taken, and "such
a quantity of sheep and cattle as were sufficient to satisfy
most part of the country they were stolen from." This
was, perhaps, the only attempt, which proved successful,
to remove the outlaws from Tarras Moss.

There is one feature in the efforts to suppress the moss-
troopers which must not be overlooked. The political
efforts having failed, and the whole machinery of law and
order having broken down, it seems to have occurred to
some one that another agency might be invoked — that of
the Church. Other means having failed the stage man-
agers would resort to the dens ex tnachina to solve the
intricate problem of Border lawlessness. As we have
shown, the raiding was frequently connived at by War-
dens on both sides, and even by the Kings of the two
countries, and it would appear that even the Church was
not perfectly clear of suspicion. Priests were known to
have entered into the game with zest and some success.
Surtees* says that "the priest and curate of Bewcastle
are both included in the list of Border thieves in 1552."
But the assistance now sought was that, not of the itin-
erant or secular priest, the " Book-o'-Bosoms " of village
fairs, but the hierarchy of the Church in the person of
the Lord Archbishop of Glasgow. The instrument by
which he sought to overawe the turbulent Borderers was
that of the major excommunication, which he hurled forth
in his Monition of Cursing,! one of the most extraordi-
nary documents on record. It can be mentioned only

* History of Durham, Vol. I., p. 166.
t This archiepiscopal decree is printed in full in Mr. R. Bruce Arm-
strong's History of Liddesdate, &c.

BATTLES AND RAIDS. 381

briefly here, but no history oi the Borders during the
sixteenth century would be complete w ithout giving some
outline of it. kiGUDE Folks, heir.it my Lord Archibis-
chop o\ Glasgwis letters under his round sele," he begins,
and at once comes to the point at issue. It has been re-
ported to him that >l our souverane lord is trew leigis, men,
wiffis and banns " have been ll part murdrist, part slayne,
brynt, heryit, spulzeit and reft ... be commoun
tratouris, revaris, theiffis, duelland in the south part of
this realme, sic as Tevidale, Eskdale, Liddisdale, Ewis-
dale, Nedisdale, and Annerdaill. . . . And thairfar
my said Lord Archibischop of Glasgw hes thocht expe-
dient to strike thame with the terribill swerd of halykirk,
quhilk thai may nocht lang endur and resist." The Mon-
ition then recites the archbishop's authorities : The
Holy Trinity, the Virgin, archangels, patriarchs, pro-
phets, apostles, martyrs, the Pope, the cardinals, arch-
bishops, bishops, abbots, priors, prelates, and ministers,
and Dknouncks, PKOCLAiMis,and Declaris, all the works
of the freebooters, — an appaling list he gives, certainly, —
to be accursed. The archbishop then descends to par-
ticulars : " I CURSE thair heid and all the haris of thair
heid, I CURSE thair face, thair ene, thair mouth, thair
neise, thair toung, their teith, their crag, thair schulderis,"
and every other part and member of their bodies, " fra
the top of thair heid to the soile of thair feit, befoir and
behind, within and without. I CURSE thaim gangand,
I curse thaim rydand, I curse thaim standand "—
sitting, eating, drinking, walking, sleeping, rising, and
lying. " I curse thaim at hame, I curse thaim fra
hame. ... I curse thair wiffis thair barn is and
thair servandis." The curse then falls upon their
barns, their corn, and everything else a dalesman

382 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

could possibly be possessed of, — ploughs, harrows,
all were swept within this terrible curse. Not content
with the authorities already named, the archbishop
somewhat irrelevantly drags in Adam; the " Yettis of
Paradise"; Cain and Abel ; Noah, and the ark ; Sodom
and Gomorrah ; Babylon and Egypt ; and expresses
the fervent hope that "the watter of Tweid and utheris
watteris quhair thai ride mot droun thaim as the Reid Sey
drownit King Pharao." Then Dathan and Abiram are
brought in, so are Moses, Aaron, David and Absolom. In
the last connection the archbishop lights up his canvas
with quite an artistic idea. He hopes that "the male-
dictioun that lichtit suddanely upon fair Absolon, rydand
contrair his fader, King David, servand of God, throw
the wod, quhen the branchis of ane tre fred him of his
horse and hangit him by the hair, mot licht upon thaim
[the mosstroopers] rydand agane trewe Scottis men and
hang thaim siclike that all the world may see." The
angry prelate then quotes Nebuchadnezzar, Judas,
Pilate, Herod and the Jews, Jerusalem, Simon Magus,
and Nero, and works up his Monition to a long conclu-
sion wherein he Dissevers and Pairtis the Borderers
from the Kirk, Interdites them from divine service,
Forbids "all cristin man or woman till have ony cum-
pany with thaim." Condemns "thaim perpetualie to
the deip pit of hell to remain with Lucifer and all his
fallowis, and thair bodeis to the gallowis of the burgh-
moor, first to be hangit, syne revin and ruggit with dog-
gis, swine, and utheris wyld heists," until they " ryse
frae this terribill cursing and mak satisfaction and
pen nance."

Dr. Borland* aptly compares " this terrible curse" with

* Border Raids and Reivers, p. 267.

BATTLES AND RAIDS. 383

that equally memorable one uttered by the Cardinal Lord
Archbishop o( Rheims, of which " nobody seemed one
penny the worse " except " that little jackdaw." Certain-
Is-, the archbishop's fulmination produced on the Bor-
derers absolutely no effect that can now he detected.
The raiders rode, and enjoyed the riding as keenly as
before.

Although the visits paid to Eskdale by the insurgents
of 1715 and 1745 were not exactly " Border raids," yet
it may not be inappropriate to include them in this chap-
ter. The incidents of '45 marked the end of the fighting
days on the Borders, and when the country settled down
after that excitement, the end of the old era had come.

It was on 13th October, 17 15, that, in sympathy with
Mar's rebellion, Lord Kenmuir, at the Market Cross,
Lochmaben, proclaimed James Stuart as King. This
was the beginning o( the Rebellion on the Borders.
Nextdav Kenmuir was at Ecclefechan, where Sir Patrick
Maxwell of Springkell joined him. On Saturday, 15th
October, the rebels were at Langholm. At each town
the insurgent army proclaimed King James, and at each
thev received recruits to their cause. Kenmuir hoped to
take Dumfries, believing that if he could do so the
Borders would be won. But Annandale rose in defence
of the Crown, and he had to abandon the project. Under
date 4th November, 17 15, Sir William Johnstone o^
Westerhall, writing to the Marquis of Annandale, saws :
"The Horse marched that night to Ecklefechen, and
Kenmoor left with the Foot, who mutinied, and about
300 or 400 broke off. I suppose you have them before

this From Fcklefechen they marched to

Langtoune and Bran ton My son John was

384 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

chosen without my knowledge captain of the voluntiers.
They are gone, to the Bordirs to catch straglers, and to
bring up from the Langholme a cannon and one other
piece of ordinance from the Langholme, which the

rebells left The rebel army intended to

march into England to join the forces of the Earl of
Derwentwater. Great reluctance to enter England was,
however, displayed by the Highlanders, who had to be
bribed with extra pay before they would cross the Esk.
Even then, many of the Highlanders deserted, and not
a few found permanent homes in the Dumfriesshire dales ;
Canonby, it is said, receiving many settlers. The de-
cisive fight took place at Preston, where the Royalist
troops heavily defeated the insurgents and took many
prisoners, amongst whom was the Earl of Nithsdale,
the head of the great family of Maxwell. He was con-
demned to death for his treason. The story of how his
Countess, being rebuffed in her pleading with the King
on her husband's behalf, so romantically and bravely
effected his escape from the Tower, is a charming one,
but is outside the scope of our narrative. Earl Niths-
dale escaped to the Continent. His estates were con-
fiscated, and on his death in 1744, were purchased by a
syndicate who sold them again to members of the
Maxwell family.

In the Rebellion of '45 Langholm took no sympathetic
share, but it again witnessed the march of the rebel
troops on their way into England. One division of the
army came by way of Hawick and Mosspaul and passed
through Langholm, where they met with no sympathy,
the townspeople, devoid of Jacobite sentiments, regard-
ing the movement only as a lawless raid. The rebels,
as might be expected, levied contributions o( victuals

BATTLES AND RAIDS. 385

from the townsfolk. The attitude o( the Langholm

people, it is said, was largely due to the moderating and
sagacious influence of Mr. Archbald Little, brother of
the Bailie Little to whom reference has been made in
these pages. Prince Charlie himself did not pass through
Langholm. With another division of his army he
went down Liddesdale and seems to have stayed a
night at Riddings.* An interesting tradition has been
handed down of a visit paid by the Chevalier's troopers
to William Hounam, a farmer in Langholm. + Hounam
occupied the farm house on the old Drove Road, on the
site of which the house known as Mount Hooly is built.
He had a large family of sons who, having no sympathy
with the Stuart cause, and hearing of the approach of
the rebel troops, betook themselves with their horses and
eattle to the wilds of Tarras for safety, but left the guid-
wife at home. On the arrival of the insurgents in Lang-
holm, an officer, with a company of soldiers, was des-
patched to Willie Hounam's farm to enlist the men and
commandeer the horses. Not finding the men, the
officer demanded of the old lady that she should inform
him of their whereabouts. This she resolutely declined
to <.\o. The officer then threatened to cut down the beam
supporting the roof of her humble abode, but still she
declined. He was as good as his word, and drawing
his sword he slashed at the beam, which being of good
stout oak withstood the attack. It was afterwards built

* The mother of Mr. Robert Smellie was wont to relate that she was
acquainted with a woman who waited on the Chevalier on this occa-
•ivMi. As she was going out to church on the Sunday morning-, he
remarked to her that no doubt she would pray that he might be unsuc-
cessful in his attempt on the Throne. To which she replied that it was
not whom he willed, nor whom she willed, but whom the Lord willed, that
would be King — a reply which, under the circumstances, whs most
diplomatic.

1 We have the story from Mr. John Hounam oi' Gilnockie School, a
great-great-grandson oi' the above William Hounam.
\ A

86 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

as a lintel into one of the windows of the present house,
which, it is interesting- to note, is still in the possession
of the H ou nam family.

It is extremely doubtful whether Charles Edward him-
self was ever in Langholm, but we know that he crossed
the Esk on that retreat from Derby which was to end
in Culloden. It will be remembered that the Baroness
Nairne's famous song, A Hundred Pipers, celebrates
the crossing of the flooded Esk by the army of the
Chevalier. She represents them as swimming "o'er
to fell English ground," and the Englishmen as being
" dumfoundered." But, as a matter of fact, it was
on the return journey that this stirring incident oc-
curred. "The Scottish army left Carlisle, and re-
treated into Scotland by crossing the Esk at Langtoun.
The Esk, which is usually shallow, had been
swelled by an incessant rain of four days to a depth of
four feet. Our cavalry formed in the river to break the
force of the current about twenty-five paces above the
part of the ford where the infantry were to pass ; the
Highlanders formed themselves into ranks of ten or
twelve abreast, with their arms locked in such a manner
as to support one another against the rapidity of the
river's current. Cavalry were likewise stationed in the
river below the ford to pick up and save those who might
be carried away by the violence of the current.
By this means our army passed the Esk in an hour's
time without losing a single man. Fires were kindled
to dry our people as soon as they quitted the water, and
the bagpipes having commenced playing, the Highlanders
began to dance, expressing the utmost joy on seeing their
country again."

* From the Memoirs of the Rebellion by the Chevalier Johnstone,

BATTLES AND RAIDS. 387

11 The Esk was swollen sae red and sae deep,
Bui shoulder to shoulder the brave lads keep,
l'ua thousand swam o'er (from) fell English ground
And danced themselves dry to the pibroch's sound."

The defeat of the rebels at Cullotlen produced a feeling

of relief in the minds of all loyal subjects. In Langholm

Kirk the loyalist victory was duly announced and a Day

oi Thanksgiving observed.

Subjoined are some notes relating to the rebellion

which are of local interest.*

* From a copy of the Edinburgh Evening Courant, of date November
18, 1745, in our possession, we take the following1 notes relating to the
Rebellion: — The Proclamation by the King- "For a General Fast" is
given hist place. The Fast was ordered in connection with the "Just
and necessary Wars in which we are engaged with the Crown of Spain
and the French King, and the unnatural Rebellion begun in one part of
this our Kingdom."

"Whitehall, Xov. 12. By an Express this Morning from the North,
there is an Account that, upon the 9th, in the afternoon, about fifty or
sixtv of the Rebels, well mounted and thought to be Officers, appear'd
on a Hill called Stanwix Bank, close by Carlisle; that the Castle oi'
Carlisle hied upon them, and that, after some time, they retreated :
That there were Accounts of different Bodies appearing in different
Places, near Carlisle. That their main Army was at Eecles-feichan, 16
MiU's from thence: That they could not get their Artillery and Baggage
for Want of 1 buses, but that they were collecting all they could get
every where, and that it was talk'd amongst them that they were to
push on Southwards. The whole Militia of the Counties of Cumberland
and Westmoreland were in Garrison, at Carlisle."

" We hear from Carlisle, by Letters of the 2d, that the Counties of
Cumberland and Westmoreland, upon Occasion of the unnatural Rebel-
lion, distinguished themselves in a particular Manner, by chearfully
continuing1 the Militia of both Counties longer than the Time required
by Law to Garrison C arlisle, by which not only that important Frontier
Town but all the Southern Part of Scotland as far as Dumfries, has
hitherto been preserved and that Part of England defended from Stroling
I'ti tit's and heavy Contributions."

"On Monday last the Highland Army past Carlisle; during their
March the Cannon played furiously from the Castle, but without any
considerable Damage : As the Rear marched the Garrison made a Sally
and seized the D. of Perth's Baggage. — On Tuesday the whole as-
sembled at Brampton, ten Miles beyond Carlisle, but ow the Newcastle
Road, where after a Council it was resolved to attack that City ami
the Baggage. — On Wednesday 3000 Horse and Foot were
detached (ov that Service, and on Thursday when the Express came off
they were approaching towards it. What the Consequence will be is
impatiently expected."

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE DEBATEABLE LAND.

THE ancient kingdom of Strathclyde, or Cumbria,
extended from the Clyde in the north, to the river
Derwent in the south. But the tract lying- between
the Solway and the Derwent, with Carlisle as its chief
town, was wrested from Malcolm, King of Scotland, by
William the Conqueror, and when David I. came to
the throne, the boundaries of the kingdoms were settled,
virtually as they are to-day.

But this did not prevent the Kings of both countries
from casting envious eyes upon the lands adjacent to
the Borders, and whilst the Edwards were seeking to
subjugate Scotland, they repeatedly made claims to land,
which the Scottish King and nation did not admit. In
1298, Edward I. seems to have claimed Eskdale as be-
longing to England, and appointed Simon Lindsay chief
keeper of the district. But this claim was soon with-
drawn. Probably, from motives of care for the safety of
the Priory, the monks of Canonby, during the incur-
sions both by Scots and English, obtained for themselves
a writ of protection from the English King, whilst at the
same time they possessed charters from the King of
Scotland. It was doubtless this fact that led Richard
III. to claim supremacy over the district, and that
gave to it the name " debateable," and thus caused it to
become the home of the raiders and " broken-men " of
both countries.

In 1403, after the Battle of Homildon Hill, Henry IV.
gave the lands of Eskdale to the renowned Henry Percy,

THE DEBATEABLE LAND. 389

who, however, only saw his promised land from a (;\v
distance, and did not venture to take effective possession
o( it. Henry's gift was, therefore, a paper compliment
only.

In 1528 the people of Canonby, evidently from motives
of precaution, had been paying a certain tribute to Eng-
land. Dacre, writing to Wolsey, mentions that when he
had set a day for the people of Canonby "to bring in
their protection," they replied " denyeing that they
lived under any protection of this real me but claimed to
be of Scotlaunde," and saying that the tribute they paid
was an acknowledgment of their access to Carlisle mar-
ket, and they quoted in support of their contention the
"Indentur of Canabe." In 1532, the English King
requested Lord Dacre to combine with Maxwell in
measures for completely destroying the inhabitants.
The English Government, however, continued at in-
tervals to press its claims as to Canonby. In 1543,
when it was first proposed to divide the Debate-
able Land, the Scottish Ambassadors were instructed
to agree to the division, " providing alwayis that
Canoybe fall hale to Scotland." When, at length, the
division of the Debateable Land was determined upon,
the Privy Council forbade the Scottish representatives
to treat Canonby as debateable. The conference between
the representatives of the two kingdoms in 1552 resulted
in peace between the realms, and hopes were also enter-
tained that the division of the Debateable Land would
put a stop to the Border raiding. This hope, however,
was not realized.

The Debateable Land included the baronies o( Bryn-
tallone, Kirkandrews, and Morton, and all of these seem
at one time to have been recognised as within the king-

39o LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

dom of Scotland, though it was afterwards claimed on
behalf of England that this district was left undivided
when the frontier was settled in the reign of Robert I.
Early in the fifteenth century the district was held to be
debateable, and was so named in 1449, though we be-
lieve that on no occasion was this admitted by Scotland.
As we have seen, Lord Maxwell, in 1528, claimed Hol-
lows Tower as within the Lordship o( Eskdale, though
Lord Dacre denied this, and included it in the Debateable
Land, the boundaries of which were as follow :— From
the Solway Firth to near the head of Tarras Water. On
the east, the boundary was the river Esk as far as the
Mote of Liddel, and then along Liddel as far as Greena
Tower. On the west, the boundaries were the Water of
Sark and the Pingle Burn. The line then ran eastward
by the Irvine Burn, until the latter joined the Esk at
Irvine House. The river Tarras formed the northern
boundary. The district was over ten miles in length
and six at its greatest breadth. On its eastern side, stood
the Towers of Hollows and Stakeheuch ; on its southern,
it was bounded by the famous Solway Moss and the
Tower of Plump ; on the north was Tarras Moss, and
in the centre were the Towers of Barngleis and Sark.

By the division of 1552 Canonby was given to Scot-
land, whose ancient claim to it was thus upheld, and
Kirkandrews to England. The line of division was
the stone and earthen wall known as Scotch Dyke, part
of which may still be seen in the plantation opposite
Scotch Dyke Station, on the North British Railway
from Carlisle to Edinburgh. The Dyke ran from this
point on the river Esk over the hill to the Water of Sark,
a distance of about five miles.

CHAPTER XIX.

INK TOWN OF LANGHOLM.

FOLLOWING Chalmers's Caledonia, virtually all the
writers of local history have stated that Langholm
was erected into a Burgh of Barony by Maxwell in 1610.
Such a statement is wrong in each particular. Lang-
holm was not erected into a Burgh of Barony until 19th
September, 162 1 ; and the grant of 1610 was not made
by Maxwell, who, of course, possessed no power or right
to make such a grant, nor was it made to him. We
have shown on page 234 that in 1610 Maxwell was an
exile in France because of his murder of the laird of
Johnstone in 1609. He was executed in 1613 and his
brother, who afterwards became Earl of Nithsdale, was
not restored to the estates until 161 8.

cranstoun's charter of 1610.

It was whilst Maxwell was outlawed that King James
VI., by a charter1 dated at Royston, 15th January, 1610,
granted to Lord William Cranstoun the free barony of
Langholm. The " narratio " recites that the grant was
made because of the services rendered by Cranstoun in
pacifying the inhabitants of the Borders. It will be
recalled that in the early years of the seventeenth
century, strenuous efforts were being put forth to reduce
the Borders to a condition of tranquility. In the carry-
ing out of the work Cranstoun had taken a prominent
share. •' Sir William Cranstoun was the most prominent

Vo\ text and translation of the Latin charter see Appendix II.

392 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

actor in the summary executions of lawless Borderers
from 1605 to 1607. Sometimes he observed a form of
assize ; as frequently there was no trial at all but sum-
mary executions — ' a quick despatch of a grete many
notable theves and villanes.' How many perished in
this way we can but conjecture. But we have a record
of thirty-two 'execute be watter and gallows' at Hawick,
Peebles, Jedburgh, and Dumfries at the end of 1605,
and fifteen more at Dumfries, Annan, and Jedburgh in
1606."*

The Cranstouns seem to have been a Border family of
some note. The name appears in the bond signed in 1569
by the barons and " landit men " promising support to
James VI. and his Regent, against Queen Mary and
Bothwell. Lord William is doubtless the Captain Cran-
stoun who in 1586 was sent into Annandale from Edin-
burgh to support Johnstone, who was then Warden of the
West March, in his efforts to arrest Maxwell. Perhaps
it was the service he then rendered which commended
him to King James. Lord William's name also appears
in a list of the Justices of the Peace for Dumfriesshire
in 1610. It may have come into the list owing to the
position in the county which this grant of Langholm
would give him. In the Border ballads the name of
Cranstoun frequently occurs and is therein often as-
sociated with the Gledstanes of Cocklaw.t In the Lay
of the Last Minstrel, Scott, curiously enough, conjoins
with Cranstoun the elf or goblin whose prototype was
"Gilpin Horner," the sprite of Todshawhill in Eskdale-
muir.

* Note by the late Professor Veitch in Dr. Russell's Reminiscences of
Yarrow, pp. 267-8.

t The ancestors of the late YV. E. Gladstone.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 393

Briefly, by the charter o( 1610, Lord William Cran-
stoun was granted "the lands o( Langholm, with

its fortress, manor, mills and fisheries, the lands oi
Broomholm, Arkinholm," and others specified, "which
the King has incorporated into the free barony of Lang-
holm, appointing the fortress of Langholm to be its
principal messuage." The rent covenanted for is "one
silver penny in name of blench-ferme." The lands
granted to Cranstoun were in the baronies of Stapel-
gortoun and Westerker, but no grant was made to him
in Wauchopedale, nor in Ewesdale excepting Arkin,
Balgray, and Whitshields. Most of the Ewesdale lands
formerly possessed by Lord Maxwell — Flaskholm, How-
gill, Glendiven, Burngranes, Park or Bush, and Wolf-
hope, — and also Murtholm, Gallosyde, Watergrains,
Bigholms, and Glencorf in Wauchopedale had, on Max-
well's forfeiture, been given to Sir Gideon Murray,
treasurer-depute.

It must not be concluded that this charter conferred
any dignity upon the town of Langholm. As a matter
of fact Langholm as a " town " did not exist. The term
"free barony" related not so much to the subject-
matter of the grant, as to the tenure upon which the
lands were to be held by Cranstoun. In the language of
feudal conveyancing a barony was an estate created or
confirmed by the Crown direct, erecting the lands em-
braced by the grant In LlBERAM Baroniam.* This

* " In Liberam Baroniam . Into a Free Barony. En former times many
persons holding certain feudal rights from the Crown were called Barons,
but in the strict legal sense the title was only due to him whoss lands

bad been erected or confirmed by the King- In Libkram Baroniam.
The advantages conferred by the right of barony were considerable.
Such a right conferred on the baron both civil and criminal jurisdiction
within his barony; and under the clause of union contained in his charter

he was enabled to take infeftment in the whole lands and lights of the
barony in what was at that time an easy and inexpensive mode.'' — Latin
Maxims and Phrases, by John, afterwards Lord Tiaviur.

394 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

tenure carried with it important privileges, but none of
these necessarily pertained to the barony ; they were
rather the legal rights of the baron himself.

Presumably, Lord William Cranstoun remained super-
ior of the lands of Langholm until 162 1, for in the
charter of this date to the Earl of Nithsdale, Cranstoun
and his son John, his heir-apparent, are stated to have
resigned them, and the same remark is applied to Sir
Gideon Murray* in respect of the lands in Ewesdale and
Wauchope.

NITHSDALE CHARTER OF 162I.

The Conveyance by the Earl of Nithsdale, dated 1628,
has been held by some writers to be the legal instrument
by which Langholm was erected into a Burgh of Barony,
and considerable confusion of mind has resulted in the
efforts to collate it and the charter of 1610. In a most
interesting review of the history of the town, on the
occasion of the last meeting of the Police Commissioners,
on the 15th May, 1893, Mr. Robert McGeorge, acting-
chief magistrate, very properly pointed out that this could
not be, seeing that such a charter was a gift of the Crown
alone, and, therefore, could not be conferred by a subject.
In 1618, and at subsequent dates, the Maxwell lands,
which had been declared forfeit in 1609, were restored to
Robert, Lord Maxwell. In 1620, he was advanced a step
in the peerage by being created Earl of Nithsdale. On the
resignation of the lands of Langholm by the Cranstouns,
and oi Ewesdale and Wauchopedale by Sir Gideon
Murray of Elibank, the King conferred them anew on

* This Sir Gideon was the father of " Muckle-mouth Meg-, " whose
personal qualities form the theme of one of Robert Browning's poems.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 395

the Earl o( Nithsdale, by a charter dated 19th September,

1621, and by the same charter- he erected Langholm
into a Burgh of Barony. It is therefore definitely

from this document that Langholm dates its existence as
a Burgh. By the charter, Lord Nithsdale was, inter alia t
granted the right of having a public hall, of erecting a

market cross and of holding annually two free fairs with
a right to the tolls. lie could also choose bailiffs and
burgesses.

The first burgesses were his kinsmen, to whom, in
1628, he conveyed the Ten-Merk Lands. He appointed
as his bailie, John Maxweli of Broomholm. A very
curious law-case arose in this connection, whereby Max-
well was sued for the alleged illegal drowning, for the
offence of sheep-stealing, of one Rossie Baittie and her
son, William Irving. This woman was the widow of
14 Ekkie Irving in Auchinraven."'f The charge against
them was that, in 162 1, they stole one ewe from Robert
Lvtill in Caltoun+ ; seven sheep from Meg Irving, in
Cars, in September, 1622; four sheep from Chris. Arms-
trong, in Stubholme, in September, 1622 ; and four
sheep from John Cavert, Woodhouselees, in November,

1622. At the trial the "gentlemen o( assize" were
Lord Maxwell of Eskdaill, James Maxwell o( Kirkconnel,
Robert, Earl o( Nithsdale, and others ; and the chan-
cellor of assize was Walter Scott of Burnfoot. The Court
found both the mother and son guilty, and ordained that
they "be taken to the Water of Ewis, at that part called
the Grieve, and their they and either o( them to be
drownet in ye said watter to the death." When the suit

For text and translation of the Latin charter, set' Appendix III.
t Auchenrivock or Stakeheuch.

X Otherwise Cauldtonn, near Old [rving
8 The Kerr.

396 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

against John Maxwell came on in the High Court of
Edinburgh it appeared that in the original trial the clerk
had omitted to libel the thieves as having been taken reid
hing* and Maxwell's trial turned upon this informality,
a purely technical offence for which he was not re-
sponsible. After submission of the case to the Crown,
John Maxwell compeared to defend the matter, but no
relatives of Rossie Baittie or her son appeared at the trial.
A letter from King Charles I. to Sir Thomas Hope,
Baronet, the lord-advocate of Scotland, was included
among the papers as follows : —

" We are informed that in the actioun perservit be you, tor an
interest against John Maxwell, bailie-depute to the Erie of Niths-
daill, it does appeir by the rolment of the Court that the executioun
was done by ane fair and legall procedour of indytment and convic-
tioun by ane assyze ; but neveryeless that by the negligence or
corruptioun of the clerk, it is nocht thairin exprest they war takin
\vt the fang ; and yairfore that in the rigour of the law the defender
may possible run in the danger of wilfull murthour — WE thairfore,
taking unto or princely consideratioun both the prescripturin of
many yeirs and the defenderis offer to prove that the defuncts were
takin reid hand, as lykwayis that in equitie so small ane oversight
or informalitie aught nocht to be ballancet with the lyf of ane subject
equallie executing the lawis and cled with sufficient authorise yair
anent, have thogbt fitt to will and reqaryre you to desist frome any
farder prosecution yair-of till or farder pleasure be knawin and with
all to intimat this our sense yairof to or Justice-Generall or deputtis,
that na forder proces till or said pleasure be forder knawin, be
granted yairin, in which nocht doubting of yor care and diligence
wee bid yor farewell —

Gevin at or Court at Whytehall, this 10 of Junii, 1641."

The record then proceeds : "And according yairto
and for obedience yrof desyrit this dyet to be deserted.
The Justice according to his Majesties letter above
written and his heines royall will and plesure yairin
expressit, desertis the saidis criminall . . and persute
mentionit yrintill — whereupon the said John Maxwell
craved that he and his cautioner Johne Maxwell of Kow-
hill that he might not be called upon again as to the
matter."

* Red-handed.

Villi TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 397

This action gives US an intimate glimpse into the state

of the law at that period. Punishment by drowning was
a recognised mode in Scotland. The phrase '4 with pit
and gallows," embodied in many charters, conveyed this
power to the baron or his agents. The t4 pit" was dug
in the river bed, where the offenders, even in the lesser
crimes of sheep-stealing, suffered the extreme penalty of
the law. Apparently, the 4ipit" for Langholm was
in the Ewes. Where the "part yrof called the Grieve"
was, we ^.\o not know. Probably it was near the con-
fluence of Esk and Ewes. There exists a tradition that
the place in Langholm where witches were burned was
near Langholm Castle and no doubt the two places of
punishment were near to each other.

nithsdale's CONTRACT of 162S.

It was not until i62cS, however, that the Earl o\ Xiths-
dale took steps to carry out the provisions ot his charter
of 162 1. This he did, as already explained, by a feu-con-
tract* conveying to ten members of the Maxwell family
what afterwards became, and are still, known as the Ten-
Merk Lands of Langholm. The consideration was that
each of the Maxwells named in the contract, viz. : —

James Maxwell of Kirkconnell, Master of Maxwell ;
James Maxwell of Tinwald ;
Archibald Maxwell of Cowhill ;
. George Maxwell of Carnsalurth ;
Robert Maxwell of Din wood ie ;
John Maxwell of Midleby ;
Herbert Maxwell of Templand ;

* See Appendix IV.

398 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Robert Maxwell, brother of the said James Maxwell

of Tinwald ;
John Maxwell of Holms ;
John Maxwell of Broomholm, brother of the said

Archibald Maxwell of Cowhill —

should build 4k ilka ane of them ane sufficient stone house
on the fore street of the said town of Langholm/ builded
with stone and lyme of two houses height at least."

With the erection of these houses the town of Lang-
holm may be said to have come into existence.

But the superiority of the Earl of Nithsdale was o[
short duration. Owing to his espousal of the cause of
Charles I. his estates were declared forfeit by Parliament
i n 1 643-4.

BUCCLEUCH CHARTER OF 1643.

The Barony of Langholm then passed to the Earl of
Buccleuch by a charter'!" dated 7th April, 1643. By this
grant the House of Buccleuch became the lords-superior
of virtually the whole of Eskdale. They had obtained
the lands in the barony or tennandrie o( Dumfedling in
1613 ; in 1619 they had augmented these by purchasing

* The Statist of 1793 says only four of the houses were built. The
late Mr. Geo. R. Rome states in his MS. that two of these houses were
reputed to be still in existence in 1883. If Mr. Rome is right the houses
he means may be those on the west side of High Street, adjacent to the
Douglas Hotel. It is also said that one of the houses was that once oc-
cupied by the late Archibald Glendinning-, at the foot of the Kirkwyird.

t The charter is of much the same tenor as that to the Earl of Niths-
dale, but includes other territories. By it, the King- " concessit et de
novo dedit Francisco Comiti Buccleugh domino Scott of Quhitchester,
et Eskdaill, in terris et Baronia de Langholm, terras . . . terras de
Dewscoir, Quhytscheles, Ovir et Nather Mylneholmes, Stapilgortoun,
Enzieholmes, Dalbeth, Scheill, cum molendino, Litill Megdaill, Meikil
Megdaill, Trochoip cum pendiculo vocato Mairtfauld, terras de Braid-
heed, Boykin," &c.

These last named lands, it will be observed, were amongst those given
to Maxwell in 1532. The charter shews that the Scotts of Buccleuch
obtained them by this grant and not by purchase, as tradition asserts,

THE TOWN OV LANGHOLM. 399

the Lordship of Eskdalemuir, and in the same year, from
Sir John Ker o( [edburgh, they purchased all the lands,
including Wauchopedale, belonging to the old Cell of
Canonby. Certain lairdships in Eskdalemuir were still
outside their holdings, but, as already noted, most o\
these were purchased in 1702, or afterwards, by Anne,
Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth.

The power placed in the hands of the House of
Buccleuch by these charters and purchases was enor-
mous. Tenure by barony was "the highest and most
privileged tenure of land " known to the Scottish feudal
system, and carried with it a number of rights and ad-
vantages, the principal being the right of jurisdiction,
which Lord Neaves" declared to be the proper, charac-
teristic, and original meaning of a barony. This juris-
diction, which was expressly conferred by the charter,
usually comprehended all crimes except the four pleas
of the Crown — murder, robbery, fire-raising, and rape —
but even these were sometimes included. Jurisdiction
in capital crimes, however, required infeftment cum
fossa ct ficrca, — with powers of pit and gallows. As we
have seen,t this right was inherent in the superiority ot
the Melrose lands in Eskdalemuir, and as the "drowning"
incident just referred to shows, it seems also to have been
inherent in the Barony oi Langholm. In civil matters,
the baron was the judge in all disputes as to debts, rents,
or maills among his tenants or vassals, who were re-
quired to give attendance at his Court. These great
powers were generally exercised through a baron-bailie',
to whom they gave a position of almost autocratic
Authority within the barony.

* Green's Encyclopedia of Scots La-,'.
t See pp. 200-201.

4oo LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

ACT OF 1747.

This enormous power, however, was abolished or con-
siderably modified by the Heritable Jurisdictions Act of
1747, which limited it to the smaller crimes, and to
actions for debt or damages not exceeding forty shillings
sterling. But there was reserved to the baron the recovery
of all rents, maills, and duties, and all multures payable
to his mills. A reservation which intimately affected
Langholm was that made in favour of existing jurisdic-
tions of fairs and markets and other rights. Amongst
the privileges usually conferred with the grant of a barony
was the right of the fishings, but it has been legally held
that this right did not necessarily include salmon-fishing
— an interpretation which may have had some effect upon
subsequent legislation concerning fishing rights — nor did
it include the right of fishing by means of fixed nets.

On the passing of the Act of 1747 the heritable bail-
ieries of Eskdalemuir, possessed at first by the Glendin-
nings, and afterwards by the Scotts of Buccleuch,* were
abolished, and the Duke of Buccleuch received the
sum of ^1,400 as compensation for the loss of his
baronial rights. The general effect of the Act was form-
ally to put an end to the greater part of the judicial and
executive power of the barons and lords of regality, which
through harsh and arbitrary exercise, had caused great
irritation and resentment.

A charter erecting a Burgh of Barony usually reserv-
ed to the Baron the right to appoint magistrates, whereas,
in the case of a Royal Burgh, the right was given direct
to the Burgh. Owing to this provision the Duke of
Buccleuch, as lord-superior of the Barony of Langholm,

* See page 243.

THE TOWN OV LANGHOLM. 401

retained the power, until the coming into Operation «.^f the
Burgh Police Act of [892. In the report of the Com-
missioners appointed in 1S33, to enquire into the state
of municipal corporations in Scotland, Langholm is

stated to belong to the class o( Burgh, "where the de-
pendence upon the superior subsists unqualified and
where the magistrates are appointed by him."

BARON-BAILIES.

It was the practice ot the Duke of Buccleuch, who, for
this purpose, obtained a Commission of Chamberlainrv
and Bailliary in 1767, to appoint his chamberlain as baron-
bailie and chief magistrate, and the chamberlain in turn
appointed a deputy-baron-bailie and acting-chief magis-
trate. The first baron-bailie appointed under this Com-
mission of whom we have any record, was William
Ogilvie o( Hartwoodmyres, chamberlain for the counties
of Dumfries, Roxburgh, Selkirk, and Peebles. By a
Deed of Deputation,* he appointed in 1768 Matthew
Little, merchant in Langholm, his deputy baron-bailie
and acting-chief magistrate. In 1793 the office was held
by William Armstrong, writer in Langholm. How long
lie continued to hold the office we do not know, but in
[845, when the residents adopted the cleaning, lighting,
and water clauses of the Act o( 1833, Alexander Steven-
son, writer, had the appointment, which he held until
1862, when it fell to Hugh Dobie, who held it until 1873.
On his death, in that year, he was succeeded by hisson-in-

There had, of course, been barons-bailie earlier than this date, but
probably their powers were more circumscribed than those now con-
ferred Some holders of this earlier office were Mi Melville, who either
died or relinquished the office in 1724; Mr. Elliot o( Midlem Mill; Mr.
Boston, son of the Rev. Thomas Boston ol Ettrick, author o( The Four-
fold State ; and a Mr. Craigie

t The original Deed is in the possession of the writers.
BB

402 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

law, Mr. Robert McGeorge, who retained the office until
May, 1893, when the Burgh Police Act of 1892 came
into force.

act of 1833.

The meeting of the occupiers to consider the adoption
of the Act of 1833 was held on 26th September, 1845, and
was convened by intimation affixed to the doors of the
Town-house and the parish church, and by "tuck of
drum " by Peter Graham, the town drummer. In addi-
tion to the adoption of certain clauses of the Act, the
meeting determined the limits of the Burgh, "with-
in a distance not exceeding 1,000 yards from the bounds,"
to be as follow : on the east of Langholm by a place
called the March-gill ; on the north by Whitshields
Clench ; on the south by Stubholm Hill ; and on the
west by Meikleholm Hill.

POLICE COMMISSIONERS.

The number of Police Commissioners was fixed at 15,
besides the acting-chief magistrate, and the maximum rate
of assessment for the ensuing three years at 4d. in the £.
The Poor's Fund of Langholm had been obtained since
the year 1775 by a voluntary assessment, but in 1845 an
Act was passed " for the amendment and better adminis-
tration of the Laws relating to the relief of the poor in
Scotland." Parochial Boards were then constituted, and
the first meeting of the Langholm Board was held with-
in the Town-house on 16th September, 1845. There
were present : A. Harley Maxwell, chamberlain to the

* Now called "Jenny Noble's Gill" — a comparatively modern desig-
nation.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 403

Duke of Buccleuch, preses, the Rev. William Berry
Shaw, minister o( Langholm parish church, and Messrs.
George Maxwell o( Broomholm, Alexander Stevenson,
writer. George J. Todd, parish schoolmaster, Matthew
[amieson, sawyer, and John Ken wick, stationer, elders.
Mr Todd was appointed Clerk, and Inspector of the Poor.
The Hoard consisted of all owners and occupiers of
property o( an assessable value o( £20 and upwards,
some members of the Kirk Session, and four members
chosen by the ratepayers. These annually appointed a
sub-committee of four to manage the affairs of the Board,
whose principal duty was the administration of parochial
relief. The Parochial Board was superseded by the
Parish Council on 15th May, 1895. It consists of eight
members for the Burgh and live for the Landward part
of the parish. The first Council was composed of the
following : — The Revs. James Buchanan and J. Wallace
Mann, and Messrs. Arthur Bell, James Cunningham,
John Hotson, John Hyslop, Charles Paisley, and
Thomas Telfer, representing the Burgh ; and Messrs.
J imes Burnet, Thomas Gaskell, Frederick W. Medhurst,
|ames Scott, and Morden Carthew-Yorstoun of East
Tinwald, chamberlain to His Grace the Duke of Buc-
cleuch, representing the Landward portion of the parish.
The first chairman of the Parish Council was Mr. John
Hyslop, who for nearly 12 years had occupied the same
position on the Parochial Board, of which he became an
elected member in 1872, and who continued to occupy
the post until his death, which occurred whilst this
volume, of which he was joint-author, was in the press.
The first clerk was Mr. Henry Erskine, on whose death,
in 1S96, Mr. James Morrison succeeded to the position,
which he still occupies.

404 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

When the arrangements for constituting the Burgh
boundaries were submitted for the approval of the
Sheriff, a difficulty arose owing to the local authorities
being unaware of the charter to the Earl of Nithsdale of
1621. According to the Act of 1833, the boundaries of
the Burgh had to be fixed, not exceeding 1,000 yards from
those defined by the Royal charter. But as there did not
appear to be any charter, the local authorities could not
conform to the requirements of the Act. It evidently did
not occur, either to them or the Sheriff, to consult the
Great Seal Register. However, the difficulty seems
ultimately to have been overcome.

commissioners' clerks.

The following are the names of those who, from 1845
to 1893, filled the office of Clerk to the Police Commis-
sioners : Mr. Robert Wallace, bank agent, 1845-8 ; Mr.
George Henderson, from 1848 until 1859, when he died ;
Mr. Hugh Dobie, writer, from 1859 until 1862, when he
was appointed acting-chief magistrate ; Mr. William
Grieve, 1862 until 1864, when he resigned ; Mr. Robert
Scott, postmaster, who was then appointed and continued
to discharge the duties of the office until the new Act
came into force in 1893. Mr. Scott thus held the position
for over 28 years.

WATER-WORKS.

At first the Act of 1833 was only adopted in respect of
the cleaning and lighting. The water supply of the town
was in the hands of the subscribers to Langholm Water
Works, who in 1856 handed over the control to the
Commissioners of Police. In the same year it was re-

THE TOWN OV LANGHOLM. 405

solved to place an inscription on the lintel o( the cistern
at Mount Hoolev, and the following, prepared by Dr.
Brown o( Milntown, was adopted : —

" Langholm Water-Works wen- commenced in the year 1853 and
finished during the .following" year. The funds for Iheir formation
were raised by the voluntary subscriptions oi' the inhabitants oi
Langholm and the adjoining districts, aided by a munificent dona-
tion from the Duke o\' Buccleuch, by libera] contributions from
natives and friends of Eskdale in the United Kingdom and abroad,
and by a most successful Bazaar which took place in July, 1854."

The supply o( water which then provided for the wants of
a population of over 3,000, soon proved inadequate, and
has been on several occasions augmented, and at the
present time the Town Council have decided upon a
further scheme for a large increase, which will ere long
be available.

BURGH POLICE ACT.

The Burgh Police Act of 1892 came into force in Lang-
holm on 15th May, 1893. The first Provost elected under
the new Act was Mr. J. J. Thomson, merchant. He held
the office until November, 1908, when he was succeeded
by the present Provost, Mr. Thomas R. Easton.

The Town Clerk first appointed was the late Mr. An-
drew Johnstone, who held office until his death in 1906,
when Mr. Samuel McKune, the present Town Clerk, was
appointed to succeed him.

The first Town Council elected under the Act con-
sisted, with the Provost, of 9 members, viz. : — Bailies :
John Goodfellow, painter ; and James Rutherford,
engineer; Councillors: John Baird Balfour, merchant;
John Hotson, builder; Robert B. Milligan, joiner ; John
Dalgleish, tweed merchant ; Matthew Knox, joiner; and
Adam Watt, hotel keeper.

406 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

On the incorporation of the Burgh an official seal* was

LANGHOLM BURGH COAT OF ARMS.

* The Town Arms are : Azure, a saltire argent ; between — in chief, a
thistle slipped proper, imperially crowned or ; on the dexter, a spade in
pale, blade upwards, wreathed with heather proper ; on the sinister, a
wooden platter surmounted of a barley-meal bannock, surmounted in
turn of a salt-herring- paleways, and marked with the letter B on each
side of the herring- ; and in base a toison (i.e., golden fleece) or.

The main shield is simply the national flag of Scotland and is so scored
upon the Seal. The three topmost devices represent the following articles
which are carried in the Common Riding Procession : — (i.) A large Scots
thistle with a floral crown on its top ; (ii.) a barley-meal bannock with a
salt herring fastened with a large nail to a wooden dish, with the letter
B on the bannock on each side of the herring; (iii.) a spade decked
with heather, which is used for cutting and turning over the sods along
the boundaries of the Commonty. The fourth device on the Seal is the
golden fleece, which represents the trade of the town — woollen manu-
facture.

It will be noticed that on the Shield the nail is not represented — " the
twalpenny nail " mentioned in some versions of the Proclamation of the
Fair.

A very good sketch of the Coat of Aims appears in The Arms of the
Baronial and Police Burghs of Scotland, by John, Marquess of Bute, K. T.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 407

prepared, o( which, by the courtesy of Provost Easton,
and the Town Clerk, Mr. S. McKune, we are permitted
to give the foregoing illustration.

A SOCIAL IMPRESSION.

There is not much information to be gleaned showing
what the social life of Langholm was in the early years
of its existence as a burgh. In the Reprint of the MS.
collection of the Earl of Lonsdale, issued by the His-
torical Manuscripts Commission in 1898, an account is
preserved of a journey by three English tourists through
Scotland in the year 1629. On their way to Edinburgh
they passed through Langholm, then, of course, only a
hamlet. They do not present a very entrancing picture of
the place, but allowance must be made for their different
standpoint, and for the fact that the Borders had scarcely
yet recovered from the ravages of the raiders, and from the
long-continued poverty of the people. We learn from
their notes that the ground along the Esk was good,
but the ground on the heights was waste. " Langholm "
they say "is my Lord Maxfield's [Maxwell], but my
Lord Buckpleugh hath it and all his land there mort-
gaged and is thought will have it.' My Lord Maxfield
hath gotten it to be a market within this five years, and
hath given them of Langholm and Erkenholm land to
them with condition to build good guest houses with-
in a year. We lodged at John a Foordes at my Lord
Maxfield's gate [Langholm Castle] where the fire is in
the midst of the house."

Evidently Ihe visitors had picked up this as a piece of village gossip,
probably hinted only by John a Foordes over his peat fire. What truth

there is in the .statement it is now impossible to say.

4o8 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The fare provided by John for his English guests was
liberal, consisting of mutton, fowls, girdle cakes, wheat
bread, ale, and spirits. The narrative proceeds: — "We
lay in a poor thatched house, the walls of it being one
course of stones, another of sods of earth. It had a door
of wicker rods, and the spider webs hung over our heads
as thick as might be, in our bed. . . . All the
churches we see are poor thatched and in some of them
the doors sodded up and no windows in." Passing by
Ewesdale they note between " Langholm and Ewes
church, the place where Lord Buckpleugh did wapp the
outlaws into the dubb." No clear indication is given
of the exact location of this place so epigrammatically
described.

The charter of April, 1643, was granted to Francis,
second Earl of Buccleuch. He died in 1651, and was
succeeded by his daughter Mary, then only three years
of age. She succeeded by virtue of the Patent granted
to her grandfather Walter, the first Earl. Her romantic
marriage to the Earl of Tarras has been already men-
tioned. Some anxiety arose concerning its legality.
The minister of Wemyss married them by license, with-
out banns. Three Sundays are required by law for the
proclamation of banns, but by custom the three can be re-
duced to one. Lord Campbell suggested that this triple
proclamation on one Sunday might have been improved
by publication on the smiddy door!* In the Countess
Mary's case, however, steps were at once taken to have
the legality of the marriage established beyond all
question.

* Border Memories, p. 63.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 409

\\\i:, DUCHESS OF BUCCLEUCH.

Countess Mary died in 1 66 1 and was succeeded by her
sister, Countess Anne, and from her succession the de-
velopment of Langholm went steadily forward. In 1663,
at the age of twelve, the Countess married the Duke of
Monmouth, who was himself only fourteen. Monmouth,
it will be remembered, was the illegitimate son of Charles
II. and Lucy Walters, the beautiful Welsh girl. On
their marriage, King Charles II. required the Duke and
Countess Anne to surrender all their titles, honours, and
estates. I le then made a re-grant of them, and created
Monmouth, who had assumed the name of Scott, first
Duke of Buccleuch, with the additional titles of Earl
Dalkeith and Lord Scott. To the Duchess, the King
made a grant separate from that given to her husband.*
Little reference need be made here to Monmouth's rebel-
lion and subsequent beheading in 1685. At one time his
hopes of securing the throne were high, but his plans all
proved abortive. On his knees he pleaded with James II.
for mercy, but the King's hold upon the loyalty and affec-
tion of his subjects was too slender to permit of so pop-
ular a noble as Monmouth again exciting them to re-
bellion. So he paid the penalty of his ambition. Lord
Tanas was also implicated with Monmouth, and thereby
lost his title and estates.

Monmouth himself does not appear ever to have visit-
ed the Borders, where, however, he was extremely pop-
ular. Hut, as Duke of Buccleuch, or perhaps it would
he more correct to say, as husband of the Countess Anne,
he exerted himself to further the material and social pro-
gress of his vassals. So far as the Town of Langholm

* Sir William Fraser's Scotts of Buccleuch.

4io LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

is concerned, the Duke and Duchess obtained the sanc-
tion of Parliament in 1672 for the holding of two fairs,
additional to those already granted, to be held on 5th
April and 15th July respectively. And in 1701 the
Duchess and her son James, Earl of Dalkeith, received
Parliamentary sanction for two more fairs to be held in
May and September of each year. These fairs will form
the subject of a separate chapter, and it is sufficient to
note here that they, especially the Wool and Lamb Fair,
held "on the 15th day o' Jul'y auld style," did more
perhaps than any other means to benefit and increase
the trade of Langholm and the surrounding district.

RE-ARRANGEMENT OF COUNTIES.

The Duke and Duchess, probably for the more conven-
ient handling of their vast estates, petitioned Parliament
for the transfer of the Eskdale parishes from the admin-
istrative county of Dumfries to that of Roxburgh. As we
have previously observed, Eskdale had once before been
included in Roxburghshire. It is so described in some
charters of the fourteenth century. It was probably so
included when Robert the Bruce re-arranged the territo-
rial divisions, but, in the following centuries it is describ-
ed in the charters as within the county of Dumfries.
But now, in 1672, Parliament passed an " Act in favors of
James and Anna, Duke and Dutches of Buccleugh and
Monmouth for uniting the fyve parodies* in Eskdale to
the Sheriffdome of Roxburgh," and also after the execu-
tion of Monmouth, Parliament, under date 1686, passed a
4i Ratification in favors of Anna Dutches of Buccleugh
disjoyning the five parodies of Eskdaill from the shy re

* Namely, Stapelgortoun, Ewes, Westerkirk, Wauchope, and Canon by.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 411

of Dumfreisand annexing the same to the shyre of Rox-
burgh."

One of the notable services rendered by Monmouth
was the re-stocking of his Border estates after the great
storm of March, 1674, known as "The Thirteen Drifty
-Days."* After it had at length abated there were left in
Eskdalemuir, which was capable of sustaining 20,000
sheep, only forty young wedders on one farm, and five
old ewes on another. The storm entirely devastated
the Border, country, and so for the relief of the conse-
quent distress Monmouth obtained license"'' to import
from Ireland 4,800 nolt of a year old, and 200 horses,
and these helped materially to re-stock the farms of his
tenants.

The Duchess of Buccleuch bore the loss of her
husband with great fortitude, though her youngest
daughter, a child of ten, felt her father's death so
acutely that she pined and died a few weeks after
her father. The Duchess was a woman of pro-
nounced individuality and force of character. After
the execution of her husband, the King, being assured
that she had neither art nor part in the Rebellion, made
a gift to her oi all the real and personal estate left by her
husband, which, of course, had been forfeited. The
Duchess seems then to have resolved upon a more inti-
mate association with her Eskdale tenantry, and she also
set herself to increase her properties in the district. We
have seen how, in 1702 and afterwards, she purchased

See Pari V.
t Such importations of cattle won- not allowable by law. The Sheriff-
depute of Roxburghshire was cautioner that Monmouth should not, on
this license, exceed the stipulated number, 'this, however, ho did, ami
Mr. W. Scott, of Miiito, hail to pay a fine of £200.— Border Memories

4i2 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

estates in Eskdalemuir which had not been included in
the Melrose Abbey lands acquired by her ancestors in
the early years of the seventeenth century. She married
Lord Cornwallis, but after ten years of married life
was again left a widow. She died in 1732 at the advanced
age of 80. On the people of her Border estates the
Duchess left a lasting impression. Her name to this
day is mentioned by them with great respect and ad-
miration ; and her splendid management of her estates
was not confined to the Borders.

Undoubtedly, the next important epoch in the develop-
ment of Langholm and Eskdale was the passing, by the
united Parliament, of the Heritable Jurisdictions Act of
1747, which has been so frequently mentioned in these
pages. In addition to abolishing the heritable jurisdic-
tions of the barons, this enactment also readjusted the
boundaries of certain of the Scottish shires. In this re-
arrangement the five parishes* o^ Eskdale, to wit, Lang-
holm, Ewes, Westerkirk, Eskdalemuir, and Canonby,
were restored to the shire and county of Dumfries.

On the death of Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch, her
grandson Francis succeeded to the title and estates.

In 1 75 1 he was succeeded by his grandson Henry,
son of Francis, Earl Dalkeith, by his marriage with
Lady Caroline Campbell, eldest daughter of John,
Duke of Argyle and Greenwich. Henry, third Duke
of Buccleuch, was the farmer-duke. His interest in,
and knowledge of, agriculture were deep and exten-
sive. Under his direction the estates in Eskdale

* Since the transference in 1672 the parishes had been re-arranged.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 413

and Liddesdale were enormously improved. Born in
1746, he was only six years of age at the date o( his suc-
cession, by which great hopes were excited. His mother
had married Charles Townsend, who greatly interested
himself in the Inn's education, but kept him away
from his Scottish estates lest he should become too
fond of Scotland. After finishing his education the
Duke travelled with Adam Smith, the famous phil-
osopher and political economist, for whom he came
to have a great admiration and regard. At the age
o( 21 lie married Lady Elizabeth Montagu, and soon
afterwards the Duke and Ouchess visited their vast
estates in Scotland. This visit was made the occasion
of a great popular welcome. Or. Carl vie, of Inveresk,
traversed the route from Hawick to Langholm at the
time when Eskdale and Liddesdale were all excitement
over the ducal visit. He wrote some verses for the Scot's
Magazine, which, though couched in the laudatory lang-
uage then inseparable from such themes, convey a vivid
sense of the local rejoicings :

" A Scott ! a noble Scott ! again appears,
The wished-for blessing of thy hoary yeai s.
Hark how the impetuous Esk in thunder roars,
Hark how the foaming Liddel beats his shores.
A Scott ! a Scolt ! triumphantly they cry,
A Scott ! a Scott ! a thousand hills reply."

Duke Henry succeeded just at the time of a great re-
vival of agriculture in Scotland. The old methods, or
lack of method, the old carelessness and slovenliness,
were quickly giving place to more intelligent ways and
to greater industry. The money received by the barons
in consideration o\ the abolition of their heritable j uns-
old Father Tweed is supposed to have heard the sound of rejoicing
and on asking the reason he is thus answered by his sons Yarrow, Kt-
krick, Ksk, and Liddel. — Quoted from Border Memories, pp. 70-71.

4i4 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

dictions was being largely spent on the development of
their estates, anil on every hand country life was obtain-
ing a new attraction from the growing prosperity and
more humane conditions being brought into existence.

In bringing about this better condition of things " Good
Duke Henry," as he afterwards came to be affectionately
called," took a principal part. He was a sympathetic

HENRY, THIRD DUKE OF BUCCLEUCH.

* By the courtesy of His Grace, the present Duke of Buccleuch, we
are permitted to publish the ahove portrait of Duke Henry. It is taken
from an old print which was widely circulated on the Borders during his
lifetime.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 4.5

and helpful friend to the poor, who had easy access to
him, and always took a leading part in every movement
likely to benefit his tenants.

In all his purposes and plans for the benefit oi' Lang-
holm and Eskdale generally, he was ably seconded by
his servant Bailie Little, whose appointment we have
already noticed. Perhaps to no other two men was
Langholm more indebted during the latter half o( the
eighteenth century, than to the Duke and his baron-
bailie.*

NEW-LANGHOLM.

One of the most noteworthy and beneficent of their
actions was the breaking up of the farm of Meikleholm
and the laving out thereon of the New-Town oi Lang-
holm. Prior to this date, the term 4k Langholm " applied
only to the part on the eastern side of the Esk. The
river-banks were unconnected by any bridge, the only
means of communication being "the boat-ford. "+ The
site of Xew-Langholm was then a large farm called the
Meikleholm, with which was generally associated the
farm of "Waas" or " Walls," which was really part of the
glebe land. In 1679 these united farms were " sett " to
Robert Allan, minister of Stapel^ortoun and son of the
minister of Wauchope. The last tenant of Meikleholm
Iras James Beattie, farmer, of Bailie Hill, Airswood, and
Downahill, a descendant of the Beattisons of Eskdale

When Pennant made his famous Tour in Scotland in 1776, it was
from Bailie Little and John Maxwell, Esquire, of Broomholm, that
lit- received his information respecting Langholm.

t In some of the deeds o\' the Kilknowe property one oi' the boundaries
1 is " the lane leading to the boat-ford."

4i6 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

and a relative of Bailie Little. James Beattie* did not
live at Meikleholm but continued to reside in Eskdale.

The leases for the new houses, of which there were
about 140 built, were for a term of 99 years. The
work of building them began in the year 1778 and went
on for a period of about 20 years. The feu-rent, or
quit-rent, for house and garden was two shillings and
eight-pence per annum, that is, at the rate of about
twenty-one shillings an acre, and the houses were of either
one or two storeys in height. Each house of one storey
had a field allotted to it of two acres in extent, whilst those
of two storeys had fields of four acres, on leases of about
14 years, at rents ranging- from three to fourteen shillings
an acre. Each cottage carried also a right of grazing for
a cow at eighteen shillings a year, on one of the three
hills, Warbla, or Stubholm Hill as it was often called,
Castle Hill, and Meikleholm Hill. The fields referred to
were on the slopes of those hills, and a great boon they
proved to the cottars of New-Langholm. In addition to
these concessions the Duke allowed the tenants to cast
peats on Warbla Moss ; and the Peat Road, illustrated on
page 7, which was cut for the tenants' convenience, in this
way received its name. The laying out of the New-Town
was virtually completed in 1800, but naturally, through
the expansion of trade and the increase in population,
other building schemes were subsequently entered into.
The last of these leases fell in some years ago, and
scarcely one of the original cottages is left. As the leases

* John Beattie, brother of James, was a generous subscriber to the
fund for building- Lang-holm Bridge. He was a man of piety and
considerable learning — humane and generous. His library, consisting
mostly of philosophical, astronomical, and scientific works, was a not-
able one for that period. Lord Hailes, one of the Lords of Session,
styled him "The Philosopher" — a man whom his illiterate neighbours
were utterly unable to understand.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 417

of the cottages matured, others were granted, and in
place of the cottages the present two storey houses of
freestone, quarried from the Common Moss for the most
part, were erected, and with their erection, the old cottages
which had so long been a distinctive feature o\ Langholm
life oi the early nineteenth century, disappeared.

In the diary oi a tour in Scotland in the year 1803
undertaken by Wordsworth and his sister, the latter
gives a pleasing glimpse o^ Langholm as it then was.

"Arrived at Langholm at about five o'clock. The
town, as we approached, from a hill, looked very
pretty, the houses being roofed with blue slates, and
standing close to the river Esk, here a large river,
that scattered its waters wide over a stony channel.
The inn neat and comfortable — exceedin^lv clean :
I could hardly believe we were still in Scotland."*

From an old MS. account oi' Langholml we learn that
in 1726 there were in the parish o( Stapelgortoun only
two gentlemen's houses, one of which belonged to the
Karl o( Dalkeith, and mention is made of a fine "bow,"
in which the Duke's chamberlain dwelt, in the middle of
Langholm, built of stones taken from the Castle walls.
Sir William Fraser in his Scotts of Buccleuch also makes
reference to this "bow." He may possibly have based
his remarks on this MS. history. Of course there were

Whilst appreciating this compliment to their town, Langholm people
would have preferred that it had not been paid at the expense of their
country !

1 Quoted by the late Mi. Geo. R. Rome in a Paper read 12th January,

;. before the London Eskdale Society.
The MS. mentions incidentally that in the year 163 1 the Langholm
district was visited by an influx of sturdy Irish beggars, who extorted
alms where not given freely — but the method of extortion is not revealed.
In 1644 there was a visitation o\' plague, ami in 1651 a great dearth
Occurred, when barley was sold at ^,20 Scots per boll, ami all kinds o\'
grain had to be imported from England.
CC

418 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

many houses around the Castle, and the stones may
have been taken from them. It is stated to be "about a
mile from the church on the north side of the Esk."
We may take it that these notes have been written by a
stranger and are somewhat confused. In 1726, as we
have remarked, the chamberlain dwelt in the castle, which
is the only place answering- to such a description.
Where the Earl of Dalkeith's house stood, is not known
— indeed its existence apart from the Castle may very
well be doubted.

We read further, that in 1723-4 the churchyard had
been walled round with a stone and lime dyke, and set
round with young timber.* There had also been built a
Town-house, a prison, and a Cross. The Town-house
and prison were built in 181 2 on the site of the old Tol-
booth, and are still standing, serving the purpose only of
a Town Hall.

THE CROSS.

The Cross, of which a drawing is here given, was re-
moved about the year 1840 to make room for the statue
of Sir Pulteney Malcolm, which has since, in 1876, been
removed to the grounds of the Library. In olden days
the Cross was the focus of all important events — pro-
clamations, royal and otherwise, were there made, and

* The same improvement was afterwards effected at Wauchope kirk-
yard, where the "young timber" may still be seen. The wall was
built by voluntary subscription, and from the original list in our possession
we note the following contributions : — Duke of Buccleuch £3 ; Arthur
Rea, Lang-holm, £1 ; Simon Hyslop, merchant, Langholm, £1 ; James
Stothard, Blough, £\ ; Walter Nicoll, Perterburn, £\ ; Simon Hyslop,
Kerr, £1 ; William Warwick, Torkune, 12s. ; Adam Armstrong, Cronks-
bankhead, ios. ; William Scott, Irvine, 10s. ; James Murray, Kirtletown,
ios. ; Peter Keen, Hagg, 10s. 6d. ; John Hyslop, Crofthead, 10s. 6d. ;
Coll. Murray, Langholm, gave as a present £1 is. ; George Warwick,
Auchenrivock, ios. 6d. ; David Laing, Westerhall, 10s. ; John Hyslop,
Potholm, 5s.; William Rea, 2s. 6d. ; William Park, 2s. 6d. ; Mrs. Julia
Murray, 2s. 6d.

THH TOWN OF L.WGHOLM.

419

at it all important meetings were held. It stood in the

Market-place, but Up to well within the nineteenth cen-
turv what is now called the Market-place was then called
The Cross.

LANGHOLM MERCAT CROSS.

About the vear 1867, some improvements were being
made to the street and the shaft of the Cross was dis-
covered. It had, evidently, been carefully buried for pre-
servation, doubtless on the spot where it had originallv
stood, in front ot which there was also a cruciform design
in the pavement, for Langholm High Street was then
cobble-paved. It is a plain shaft o( W'hita sandstone set
into a roughly-hewn plinth of the same stone. It would

420 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

appear from the socket holes, which can be seen in the
illustration, that some other stone had been clamped
to it. The shaft of the Cross was surmounted by a red
granitfc stone of oval shape, into which had been roughly
cut the kl cross," as shown in the inset "A." After
the removal of the Cross its existence seems to have
been entirely forgotten, until its discovery in 1867.
The top-stone was afterwards found in the Black-
syke, which once ran near by, but was long ago
covered in. The old Cross, thus recovered, was given
to Mr. Hugh Dobie, then acting-chief magistrate, who
had it erected within his grounds at Greenbank, where
it still stands.*

A BACKWARD GLANCE.

The MS. proceeds to record that the town was then
furnished with all kinds of tradesmen ; a weekly market
and six yearly fairs, from which accrued a considerable
revenue in customs. In addition to the Town-house and
prison there was an excise office — and, of course, an ex-
ciseman, who was then even more indispensable than the
policeman. In 1726 a woolcombing. business had been
established which causes the writer to lament : "What a
pity it is, it wants a wool manufactory, being a great wool
country !" He also threw out the suggestion that, to this
end, a few farmers should send their sons, as apprentices,
to Huddersfield and other Yorkshire towns, there to
learn the manufacture of woollen goods, presumably with
the idea that they should afterwards commence business
in Langholm. Could the writer of the MS. have foreseen
the development which since then has taken place in the

* We are indebted to Mr. Robert McGeorge for permission to have
the Cross photographed and reproduced here.

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 421

woollen trade o( Langholm, his prophetic hopes would
have been fully satisfied. Such a woollen factor)' was,
however, in existence in the town at a later date, and it
is curious to note that it was an object o( some concern
to the Kirk-Session, whose oversight of the religion and
morals of the town did not exhaust their activities. On
28th February, 1750, there is the following minute in the
Session records : —

"The Session appoint the Treasurer with the
other members of Session, to intimate to such
women able to spin to get any money in charity,
that they employ their labour and spin for the
Woollen Factory in town preferably to any other
that shall employ them with certification."

It was during the lifetime of the Good Duke Henry
that Langholm Lodge was built. " This handsome
mansion," says the Statist of 1793, 4k much admired by
travellers for its elegant simplicity and line situation,
stands in the middle of a delightful valley about half a
mile north from Langholm." He thus began that in-
timacy which for 120 years has existed between the ducal
family and Langholm, and which was never more evi-
denced than by their Graces, the present Duke and
Duchess and their family, whose liking for Eskdale has
ever been unmistakable. Langholm Lodge was burned
to the ground ere yet it was occupied. It was rebuilt in
I790 oi white freestone of remarkable durability from
Whita Hill. Since then the family ot Buccleuch have
resided there for a certain period each vear.

It is interesting to note that at this time Langholm
ranked, in regard to population, as the second town in the
county, a position from which it has since fallen, owing

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 423

to the lamentable emigration from the town. Houses in
Langholm were then rented at from fifteen shillings to
,£12 a year.

In New-Langholm, about the year 1789, there was
established a cotton manufactory. The cotton yarn made
was known as " No. 30," and found a market in Carlisle
and Glasgow. The factory was in the Meikleholm Mill,
and gave employment to nearly 100 people. But in
1793, difficulties arose through the great financial panic
when, from unsound methods oi' finance and troubles
abroad, so many banking houses were forced to suspend
payment. Public credit was entirely undermined, and
Langholm suffered equally with other places all over the
country. However, in 1794, work was resumed in the
cotton industry at Meikleholm Mill by one James Carr-
Uthers. The machinery contained 3,552 mule spindles,
and, in 1841, there were stated to be over 90 persons
engaged in the mill. In later years the cotton weav-
ing was abandoned, and the mill was converted into
a flour mill, the power being obtained from a dam lead-
ing from Wauchope, which is still utilized for Messrs.
Reid and Taylor's large woollen mills. The industry was
resumed, however, about the year 181 2, at the mill near the
Ewes Bridge, known afterwards as the High Mill, where
50 to 60 workers were employed. Their hours of labour
were from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m., with an hour off for dinner.

Up to about the same year a paper mill, situated where
the present distillery stands, near the Skipper's Bridge,
was in operation employing 20 workpeople, with an out-
put of 80 reams weekly. It was about the same date that
the manufacture of ''checks" and thread developed in
Langholm. In 1792 some 20,000 yards of "checks" and
other - coarse linens were sold. The manufacture of

424 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

stockings also sprang up, and for many years remained
one, of the staple trades of the town. The Statist
mentions also that a considerable trade was done in other
branches of merchandise. In this connection reference
may here be made to an Act passed in 1808 to amend
certain Acts of the Scottish Parliament relating to trade
between the Royal Burghs and the Burghs of Regality
and Barony. The object of the Act was to impose upon
places other than Royal Burghs, certain of the duties
which, by Scottish legislation, had been exacted solely
from them, and for which in return they had been granted
certain privileges of trading amongst themselves and with
foreign parts. The privileges had been gradually ap-
propriated by Burghs of Regality and Barony, and the
Act was to re-adjust the burdens. Any quota of the
duties which a Burgh of Barony might thereby con-
tribute could be recovered from persons trading, but not
actually residing, within the Burgh. Langholm was
scheduled in the Act as a Burgh of Barony which did
not contribute in any way whatever to the relief of Royal
Burghs, and by the Act it was made liable to a tax of
10 per cent, on its tax-roll.

The Statist of 1793 gives us a very interesting glimpse
into the occupations of the Langholm people. In the
town, he notes, there were two surgeons, two writers, 14
shopkeepers, six manufacturers in " checks," thread, or
stockings, one tanner, on& skinner, one clockmaker, one
saddler, two dyers, five bakers, two butchers, three
bleachers, and two barbers. There were also 30 masons,
20 joiners, eight blacksmiths, 43 weavers, 11 shoemakers,
three doggers, four gardeners, and 15 tailors. There
were also 15 innkeepers and publicans, ''exclusive of
some who keep private tippling-houses and dram-shops."

THE TOWN OF LANGHOLM. 425

From these figures it will be seen that the Langholm oi

L792 was not very much interior as a trading centre to
the Langholm of 191 1.

It is also recorded that masons' and joiners' wages
were from 1/6 and 2/- a day ; day labourers, iod. a

day in winter, and 1/2 or 1/4 in summer; women, 8d.
to iod. a day ; male servants, resident in the family,
were paid from six to eight pounds a year, and female
servants three to five pounds.

Beef then sold at about fourpence a pound ; mutton
about threepence ; fowls were 8d. to iod. ; geese, eigh-
teenpence or two shillings ; butter was sixpence to 7UI.
per English pound ; eggs were 3d. to 4d. a dozen ; and
meal, two shillings a stone.

A detailed account is also given by the Statist of a
Friendly Society, with 150 members, which then existed
in Langholm, and he optimistically looked to such
Societies to abolish poor's rates. But the dawn of that
day has not even yet touched the brow of Whita.

Only one further development in the corporate life of
Langholm need now be recorded In 1872, the Educa-
tion Act for Scotland became law, and, in pursuance of
its requirements, a School Board was first elected on
8th April, 1873. This Board consisted of the following:—
Dr. JEneas Macaulay, surgeon ; Rev. J. W. Macturk,
a.b., parish minister; James Burnet, architect; George
Maxwell, of Broomholm ; Walter Scott, skinner ; Robert
Smellie, merchant; John Connell, distiller. Mr. Max-
well, of Broomholm, was appointed to be chairman, and
Mr. Hugh Dobie, clerk and treasurer. Owing to the
death of Mr. Dobie, Mr. Maxwell took o\cv the duties of
Clerk also, and acted in that capacity, without salary,
until 1886, when he resigned his posts and seat on the
Board.

426 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The new Board took over the control of all the schools
in Langholm. The old Parish School was enlarged for
the reception of the scholars of the Free Church School
and others, and Mr. John Howie, of Airdrie Academy,
was appointed head master over the united institution.
During Mr. Howie's occupancy of the position the
School developed greatly, both in the number of scholars
and scholastic distinction, and a few years ago its name
was changed to "Langholm Academy," with Mr. Howie
as its first Rector. On his death in 1908 the Rectorship
was given to Mr. R. Hamilton, m.a., b.sc, who still
occupies the post.

CHAPTER XX.

I HE BRIDGES OF ESK.

DURING the latter half of the eighteenth century a
great advance was made in the social and indus-
trial condition of the south of Scotland. The money which
the barons had received as compensation for the abolition
of their heritable jurisdiction, in 1747, became available
for the improvement of their estates, and to the credit
o( the barons it must be admitted that the money was
spent to the advantage of the country. Another factor
making for the better development of the great landed
estates was the freer sale of land, which was induced partly
by the confiscations following the Rebellion of '45, when
large portions of land were placed on the market, and
partly by the eagerness of pensioned servants of the East
India Company to acquire estates on which they could
settle after their return to this country.

Money, too, came into freer circulation by about the
middle of the eighteenth century. Up to this period very
little coin had been in use in the south of Scotland, land-
lords received only about one fourth of their rents in actual
cash, the rest in kind. This entailed an enormous waste,
lor the grain often stood rotting in the granaries waiting
for a market. But now banks were rapidly springing
into being and landlords were being paid in cash.
Farmers, too, by the Act of 1747, were released from the
tyranny oi~ thirlage, — a compulsion which placed them at
the mercy of the miller, and greatly hampered the natural
evolution of agriculture, — and were also relieved from
their obligation to give so much free labour to their land-

428 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

lords, and from his levy upon their produce. For the
last a quicker and readier market was being found, and
the great Fairs, such as Langholm Summer Fair, served
as excellent markets for sheep and wool.

Added to these agencies was the beneficent operation
of the Turnpike Acts leading up to that of 183 1. By
these Acts farmers and proprietors were assessed in equal
proportions for the maintenance of efficient public roads,
which in this way were made more serviceable as a means
of communication between the farms and the markets than
the old cart-tracks which had formerly been made to answer
the purpose. Excepting perhaps the road to Westerkirk
and Eskdalemuir, virtually all the roads in Eskdale had
been constructed by statute labour according to the Act
of 1669, that is, each resident was required by law to
contribute his share of labour, or its equivalent in
money, to the making of the highway. The Act of 1751
and various other supplementary Acts, not only provided
for a legal assessment upon proprietors and occupiers, but
also enabled those responsible for the upkeep of the roads,
viz., parish authorities or Road Trustees, to convert cer-
tain of the main roads into turnpikes, and to levy tolls
on the traffic, the revenue helping to maintain the roads.
The turnpikes in Langholm district were the roads from
Langholm to Carlisle, Langholm to Hawick, and Lang-
holm to Annan. The tolls on the turnpike roads con-
tinued in force until the Roads and Bridges Act of 1878
came into operation, when they were abolished. Many
of the old toll-bars still exist on the above named roads,
viz., at Scotch Dyke, Langholm town-foot, Langholm
town-head, and Fiddleton, on the Carlisle and Edin-
burgh turnpike, all of them comparatively modern
houses ; and Wauchope and Falford on the Langholm

THE BRIDGES OF ESK, 429

and Annan road. These are the old eighteenth century
cottages.

The result o( all these factors was a great revival in
agriculture. Newer methods were welcomed ; land was
drained and brought under cultivation; hedges were

planted ; houses were greatly improved ; and both in
furnishings and food as well as in clothes there was
soon seen a striking improvement throughout the entire
lowlands. The land had rest after the centuries ol Border
strife, and lairds, farmers, and cottars could attend to the
less exciting, but more praiseworthy avocations o[ the
country-side, in assurance and peace oi~ mind.

One of the immediate consequences o( the revival o(
agriculture was, as we have indicated, the improvement
in the ways of communication. The latter half 0^ the
eighteenth century saw the construction of many o( the
main roads, and the building o( bridges, without which
social and economic intercourse could not thrive.

In Eskdale, as elsewhere, this improvement was due
to the enlightened policy of the great lairds. Henry,
Duke o^ Buccleuch, set himself with commendable en-
thusiasm to improve his estates in Kskdale. Sir William
Pultenev,* the laird of Westerhall, planned the coach road
6f the Ewes valley, and in 1763 obtained an Act oi~ Parlia-
ment for carrying out the work ;' and others followed
their good example. The Kskdale parishes were now
connected by the building of those Bridges over the Esk,
which were not only to be an ornament to the landscape,
but a potent force in the development of the dale.

Sir William Pulteney was a brother of Sir James Johnstone, and
■ncceeded to tin- baronetcy. He married the heiress of William Pul-
teney, Earl of Bath, ami look her name.

t Statistical Account, 1793.

43Q

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

SKIPPER'S BRIDGE.

Probably the oldest of the Esk Bridges is that at
Skipper's, a mile below Langholm, where it forms so
picturesque an object in a scene of magnificent natural
beauty, — a scene which must surely have excited the ad-
miration of Wordsworth when he passed through Lang-
holm on his famous tour in Scotland. If he saw the
Esk in flood, boiling and tossing over the pointed rocks,
which form the termination of the Silurian system in
Rlskdale, one can well understand how his poetic appre-
ciation of the beautiful in nature would be aroused. The
Bridge, founded strongly on an outcrop of rock, con-

THE BRIDGES OF ESK. 431

sists of two separate erections The earlier — the south-
ward —section was built about 1693- 1700. It was a nar-
row bridge, similar to many others in the lowlands, and the
suggestion may be hazarded that it owed its origin to

Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth. Its erec-
tion was necessary to link up the main route from Car-
lisle to Edinburgh. In 1807 it was widened bv the
addition of that part nearer Langholm. The two sec-
tions are easily distinguishable. The Bridge is designed
in two semi-circular arches with a third and smaller one
at the western approach, and it is interesting to note
that the flat, square stones built into the west end of the
Bridge were obtained from the old Roman way between
Skipper's and Murtholm.

Concerning the origin of the name "Skipper's," there
is a tradition that before the Bridge was built a ferry-
boat plied across the river at that part, and the ferry-
man was popularly called "the skipper." When his
occupation was rendered unnecessary by the erection of
the Bridge, his designation was given to it, and it serves
to keep his memory green.

The Bridge which spans the Esk at Langholm was
built in 1775. On one of the piers the date 1794 is
carved, but this has evidently been done when some
alterations or repairs were being carried out. The cost
was met by public subscription, liberally supported bv
the farmers of Westerkirk and Eskdalemuir, who were
quick to see the great business advantage it would give
them. The Duke of Buccleuch and the laird of Wester-
hall both interested themselves conspicuously in the move-
ment. The Bridge is a massive stone structure of three
arches. It was built by Robert, or, as he was called,
Robin Hotson, the first of a family who have continued

432

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

to the sixth generation to be builders in Langholm. A
noteworthy circumstance connected with the building of
the Bridge is that Thomas Telford, the famous engineer,

THE BRIDGES OF ESK. 433

who afterwards designed the great tubular bridge over
the Menai Straits, the Caledonian Canal, and other
notable undertakings, worked at it as a young journey-
man, and received there his first instruction in bridge-
building, and it is also worthy o( remark that his first
lessons in road-making, in which his lame was afterwards
to equal, if not surpass that of Macadam himself, would
he learned about this time when the Kskdalemuir and
other highways were under construction. To what ex-
cellent use Telford put his opportunities is attested by
many of the great highways of this country, notably that
from Carlisle to Glasgow.

When finished, the Bridge was of a somewhat narrow
gauge with stone parapets. In 1880 it was widened by
the Eighth Division of the Statute Labour Roads of
Dumfriesshire at a cost of ^1,188 4s. 9UI.

Gilnockie Bridge was built about the year 1799.* It
consists of a large arch and a smaller dry one.

At this part of the river the scenery is of the finest
description, — precipices, fifty or sixty feet in height,
Crowned with overhanging trees, rising sheer from the
water's edge. The total length of the Bridge is 244
feel and the height 46 feet. It was on the summit of the
eastern bank where, it is claimed, stood Gilnockie Tower,
the stones o( which, as already explained, were said to
have been used in building the Bridge. The high road
is diverted here from the west to the east side of the river,
at the instance, and also at the expense, of the then Duke
o\ Buccleuch, who desired a readier access to his coal
mines at Byreburn. On this road, where the Burn falls

The keystone of this bridge was placed in position by t he grand-
father of Mi. Thomas Beattie, chemist, Langholm.
DD

434

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

>.::-.*- £,

~+<\ fr

GILNOCKIE BRIDGE.

into the Esk, a bridge was erected some 60 years ago, over
the seat of an older and much lower bridge. Another
road from Langholm led by way of Tarras, and it was
kept in repair from an assessment on the heritors in lieu
of statute labour. This road, by way of Claygate, led
from the north to the mines of Canonby, then worked
by one Lomax, an Englishman.

THK BRIDGES OF ESK.

435

CANONBY BRIDGE.

The last Bridge across the Esk in Scotland is at Can-
onby. A circumstance which doubtless first suggested
the building of a bridge at this place was the tragic occur-
rence which happened one Sunday in November, 1696,
when a number of people returning from church were
drowned by the upsetting of a boat. Dr. Russell in-
dicates that several other accidents of a like nature
occurred. '4 Many individuals having lost their lives
after this event, the idea of building a bridge that had
been long suggested was at length happily realised."*

* Statistical Account , 1703.

436 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

This would be about 1745. The Bridge then erected
was without parapets and of a primitive description.

To those acquainted with the configuration of the
ground, it will be obvious that the ferry over the Esk
could not possibly have been where the present Bridge is.
Probably, it was farther down the river, near to what is
now known as the " Deid Neuk," which may, indeed,
have received its name from the sad occurrence, for one
may be assured that the event would create a profound
sensation in the district.

The present structure was built between 1780 and 1790,
some years earlier than Gilnockie Bridge. Many of the
stones used were, it is said, brought from the old Priory
of Hall-green. Originally the parapets were of stone,
and it was widened to its present dimensions in 1899
by the District Committee of the Dumfriesshire County
Council, at a cost of over £800.

The other Bridges over the Esk are in its upper reaches,
and do not call for lengthy comment. The one nearest the
source of the river is a short distance below Glendearg and
Upper Cassock. The next is near to Clerkhill, and is a
Bridge of two arches built in 1878 to replace an older struc-
ture. The cost, ,£1,06 1, was provided by the Road Trustees.
At Enzieholm there is a Bridge of a high single span.
At Bentpath is a narrow two-span Bridge of old con-
struction, the oldest in Upper Eskdale, but no date is in-
scribed upon it nor anything to indicate by whom it was
built.

Of more recent Bridges mention may be made of those
at Burnfoot and Potholm.

Ewes Bridge, a little above where that river flows into
the Esk, is the old coach-road Bridge on the highway
from Carlisle to Edinburgh. It was built some time

THE BRIDGES OF ESK. 437

before 1775, probably in 1763. The Bridge at the High

Mill, on the now coach road, was built in 1822, when the
road by Walker's Hole and across the Turnerholm was
made.

The only Bridge across the Wauchope requiring notice
i.s that known as the Auld Stane Brig, at the site of
Wauchope Castle. It was built in the spring of 1794
when the new road from Langholm to Annan was made
b\ the statute labour trustees. The old coach road to
Annan, which went by way oi' QW\ Irvine, was con-
structed in 1760, — the expense of the stretch of eight
miles from Irvine to Springkell being borne by Sir
William Pulteney o( Westerhall.

The small Bridge over the Becks Burn at Wauchope
Kirkyard was made in 18 15. Previously the traffic
crossed by a ford.

CHAPTER XXI.

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE.

THE territory of Strathclyde, or Cumbria, had from
an early date been the scene of much activity on
the part of the Christian Church. In a previous chapter
we have pointed out that, by its geographical position,
Eskdale must quickly have come under the influence of
the missionaries who were sent forth by the religious
houses of the early centuries, and we have mentioned

st. bride's chapel

as, undoubtedly, the earliest Christian settlement in Esk-
dale.

BYKEN.

Near the end of the fourteenth century a church, dedi-
cated, like the Priory of Canonby, to St. Martin, was
founded at Byken in Westerkirk by Adam de Glendon-
yng, who set apart certain of his lands in the barony of
Hawick for its support. Where the chapel was situated
is not known, nor have we any clear record of its in-
cumbents. Mr. R. Bruce Armstrong enumerates* the fol-
lowing : —

Bartholomew Glendoning - - -ante 1459

Grandson of the founder. He was deprived of the
charge by the Bishop of Glasgow, for non-residence, in
'459-

Clement Curror _____ ante 1501

Sir John Lamb ------- 1501

Sir Walter Kersane _____ 1509

* History of Liddesdaie, &.C., p. 99.

THE KIRKS OV KSKDALE. 439

WATCARRICK.

The chapel of Watcarrick, the location o( which is
determined l)v the position of the old kirkyard, served the
district of Upper Kskdale until the Reformation. In
1703 the parish of Hskdalemuir was formed, the new
church being built upon the site of the present building.
Vestiges of the ancient chapel at Watcarrick could be
seen until near the close of the eighteenth century, but
these have since entirely disappeared. There is a refer-
ence to the chapel in 1592, when the ** teind schaves "
were returned as £6 13s. 4d.

UNTHANK.

Here was situated the Over-kirk of Ewes, dedicated
to St. Mark. The lonely churchyard marks the site
of the ancient chapel, and is all that is left to tell the
passer-by that once upon a time a kirk stood there.

Chalmers, in his Caledonia, states that the Over-kirk
o{ Ewes was at Ewes-doors,* and that Unthank was one
o( two chapels attached to it, the other being at Moss
paul. This is accepted by the Statist of 1841, and by
subsequent writers, but it seems unquestionable that Un-
thank was the Over-kirk itself, rather than a mere chapel-
of-ease, and it is so marked on Bleau's map of 1662. So
far as we arc aware no definite evidence has ever been
discovered pointing to Ewes-doors as its location. There
is no trace of any remains at that place which would
support such a contention.

John Lindsay of Wauchope had the right of patronage
of Unthank, but on his forfeiture in 1505 through the

Chalmers derives this place-name from Celtic uisge and British drws,
or dutas, a pass.

44Q LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

slaying of the Glendinnings, it fell to Lord Home. On
the decease of the latter it reverted to the Crown, by
whom it was bestowed on Lord Maxwell in 1516. One
of the incumbents, Robert, was a witness to a charter in
the reign of Alexander III.

The Over-kirk of Ewes was deserted at the Reform-
ation, after which the Nether-kirk alone supplied spiritual
ordinances.

Sir Walter Scott has a note that it was to Unthank
that the secular priests known as " Book-a-Bosoms" came
to confirm the 4t hand-fasting," which had been only a
mutual contract, unaccompanied by any religious cere-
monial. But Unthank would be only one of many such
churches, for hand-fasting, or hand-fisting as it was also
called, was not exclusively confined to Eskdale.

MOSSPAUL.*

The name Mosspaul, or Moss Paul as some writers
have it, suggests the existence of an ecclesiastical
foundation and, as just stated, Chalmers places here a
chapel of the Over-kirk of Ewes. Concerning it we
have little information. Writing in 1835 f°r tne Statis-
tical Account published in 1841, the Rev. Robert Shaw
mentions that the ruins of the church of Mosspaul could
then be identified, but all trace of them has been long
removed.

* The readiest interpretation of the place-name is that it means " the
moss of St. Paul." But it seems inevitable that it should be considered
in some possible relationship to Mosspeeblk, farther down the Ewes
valley, the meaning of which is not so readily suggested, unless, indeed,
" peeble " be a corruption of "Peter," in which case both names may
relate to some settlements of the early Cumbrian Church.

THE KIRKS OV ESKDALE. 441

CANONBY.

The most important church in Eskdale was that ol
Canonby. The Priory was founded for Canons Regular
of the Augustinian Order by Turgot de Rossedal, during
the reign oi David I. ( 1 1 24 to 1 153), to be held as a cell
attached to the monastery ol Jedburgh, which had re-
ceived various grants o( land from the Rossedals and
others. The Priory Church seems to have been known
during the twelfth century as the Church o( Liddel.

In 1 179 Pope Alexander III. confirmed to Jocelin,
Bishop of Glasgow, the biographer o( St. Kentigern, or
St. M ungo, the churches of Eskdale, Ewesdale, and
Liddesdale. The monks o( Jedburgh appear to have
disputed the ecclesiastical jurisdiction oi' the See of Glas-
gow, and the questions in dispute between them were
submitted to arbitration ; for the religious houses were
ever careful not to go to law with each other. The award
placed the church of St. Martin of Liddel under the epis-
copal authority of the Bishop of Glasgow ; and there
\\ ere attached, as dependencies of the Priory, the churches
of Castletown, Sibbaldbie, and Wauchope. In 1540
Dean George* Graym granted a lease for five years of
the glebe lands of Wauchope to Lord Maxwell. Mr.
R. Bruce Armstrong mentions that this document is still
extant, and that it is probably the only one remain-
ing which was executed by a Prior of Canonby. Canonby
was in the deanery of Annandale, though Mr. R. Bruce
Armstrong suggests that there was also a deanery o( Esk-
dale.t During the Wars of Succession the Prior of

The signature is " George Graym,'" but in the body of the docu-
ment his Christian name is given as "John.''

' It may have been this fact which originated the name " Dean-banks,"
me beautiful stretch o\' woodland between Skipper's Bridge and the
Irvine Burn.

442 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

Canonby, as well as the incumbents of the churches of
Westerkirk and Ewes, swore fealty to Edward I., but as
we have already pointed out, neither the monks nor the
people of Canonby seem ever to have renounced their
claim to be regarded as Scottish subjects.

The Priory, naturally, was the place of most conse-
quence in the whole district, judicial and other business
being there transacted. When James IV. made his Raid
of Eskdale it might have been expected that he would
accept the hospitality of the Canons, but, apparently,
what they were able to offer was not commensurate with
his dignity, and so he brought with him at considerable
expense and no small inconvenience, his own royal pa-
vilions.

According to a letter from the Council to the Earl
of Shrewsbury, the Bishop of Durham and Sir R. Sadler,
of date 30th November, 1544, it would appear that the
Priory and the church were destroyed by Lord Wharton
in his notorious raid after the battle of Solway Moss.
The Priory lands had long been the object of desire on
the part of the English King, but without wavering for
an instant, the Scottish Government adhered to their de-
claration that they would not even discuss whether the
lands were debateable. They indicated that they were
even prepared to go to war to uphold their claim, which
in the end was fully recognised by the division of 1552.

By the General Annexation Act of 1587 the Priory
and church lands became the property of the Crown.
In 1606 they passed by charter to Lord Home, who in
1610 received also a grant of the churches, parsonages,
and teinds, and in consideration of these grants Lord
Home undertook to pay the stipend of the minister and
provide the Communion elements. From Lord Home

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 443

they passed to Sir John Ker, and from him to Walter,
first Earl of Buccleuch; but in 1O21 the preceding grants
to Lord Home o( " the teynd schevis and utheris teyndis,
parsonage and vicarage, of the Kirkis of Wauchope and
Cannabie belonging to the cell or pryorie of Cannabie"
were ratified to his successor. In [653 all the teinds
were the property of the Countess o\ Buccleuch, and they
have since remained in the possession of the ducal
House.

We have already mentioned the generally accepted
tradition" that the stones for the erection of Canonby
Bridge were obtained from the ruined buildings of the
Priory. A right of way still exists from the present
church to Hallgreen, the site of the ancient Priory.

Very few pieces of the building are now extant, but,
fortunately, there has been preserved from the hands of
the vandals the sedilia, which is represented on «the next
page- It was transferred during the ministry of the
Rev. James Donaldson and erected in the present church-
yard, and a tablet to his memory inserted in it.

It is a very beautiful piece of Norman work, perhaps
the only specimen of that style extant in Eskdale, and the
Rev. Mr. Donaldson performed an estimable service in
securing the safety of this artistic and sacred relic. A
grotesque piece of sculpture, supposed to be a piece of
the chrismatory, was dug up in the churchyard, and was,
until some thirty years ago, preserved by the ministers
of Canonby.

We quote this tradition with some reserve. The Priory, which pro-
bably was never of greal extent, was demolished in 154J-4, after die Battle
ol Sol way Moss. In the charter of 1 ()oi) to 1. 010! 1 1 oino, we have "necnon
hiiulum ubi elausma, domus et horrea do Cannabie olim situata erant,
tunc demolita. " The use here oi' the pluperfect ten so suggests that at the
date of the charter very little of the original building remained above
ground On the other hand the existence of the sedilia points to the
possibility ol then- having been a considerable mass of material left.

SEDILIA IX CANONBY KIRKYARD.

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 445

It was not until the year 1609 that a regular supply

o( ministers became available for Canonby. The definite
settlement in that year, so tar as Canonby was con-
cerned, and a year or two later, in the other principal
churches o\ Eskdale was no doubt due to a commission
sent down by the General Assembly in 1608. The mem-
bers were empowered to visit the kirks in these southern
dales, and, where necessary, settle ministers and perform
other presbyterial functions, such as building and uniting
churches, ami, in certain eventualities, to deprive ministers
of their offices.

The following is a list o( the ministers o( Canonby
si nee 1609 : —
John Douglas, a.m. ------ 1609

Translated from Longformacus. Presented to Wauchope and
Canonby 1st Sept., [609, by James VI. On 20th following-, the
Presbytery o( Jedburgh proposed "to remember his planting"" to

the Synod, "to the g rent sclander of the Kirk."' In 1615, he had
also Morton, to which ho was presented by Charles I., on 2nd April,
1635. In 1639, he was served heir to his brother James, and died
in January, 1653.

John Bell, a.m. ------- 1644

David Laynge, a.m. ------ 1649

One of the four ministers in the hounds of the Presbytery of
Middleby who "conformed" to the Act of 1662. Ho siu-ms |0
have lost, or otherwise disposed ot\ the Session hook, lor in 1694
there is a minute that "enquiries should In- made at Mr. John
Laing son to Mr. David Laing sometime minister at Cannabeefor
the Session Book and Kirk Utensils." The enquiry elicited "no
notice."

DaVid Hedderwick, a.m. ----- [68-

Deprived, 1689. Removed to Edinburgh in 1701, and had a
Meeting House in Gray's Close. Ho rendered himself liable, in
1714, to the pains of the Acl of Parliament i>i 5th July, 1695, by
reading prayers in tin' church ol' OKI Machar, setting up organs,

&c. Died, 172;,.

ukokgk Murray, a.m. - 1689

James Armstrong ------ 1694

William Armstrong ------ lyig

Son of above. He was termed a new ligiil or "legal" preacher,
and gave much offence by his sermon at the opening oi synod, in

446

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

1730. Preaching' before His Grace, the Commissioner — Hugh,
Earl of Loudoun — and the General Assembly, 16th May, 1736,
upon Doing Good, "he read his papers in the grossest, most in-
distinct, and undecent manner. The writing was so large that the
letters were seen at a good distance, when he turned the page.
At every six or seven lines he mistook the line and read a wrong
one, and called himself back." He was also one of a club who
did not favour Confessions of Faith. Translated to Castleton in

'7.33-

His son John Armstrong M.D. was of considerable repute as a
physician but was more distinguished as a writer. His best
known work was The Art of Preserving Health*

Robert Petrie, a.m. ------ 1734

On the back of the sedilia just referred to, there is the following
inscription: — " Sacred to the memory of the Rev. Robert Petrie,
A.M., who was 30 Years Minister of this parish.

The tears of all his Parishioners, which were shed over his Tomb
in great abundance, were the strongest testimonial of his worth
and their affection for [the] loss they had sustained in his Death,
which happened the — July, 1764, in the 61st Year of his age.
He lived beloved, esteemed, and respected, and he died lamented
by all who were friends to Religion, Virtue, and polite Learning."
One of Mr. Petrie's sons was Dr. Robert Petrie, an eminent
physician in Lincoln, and another, William, distinguished himself
in India.

Andrew Walker _-_-_. 1765

Translated from Ettrick. Presented by Henry, third Duke of
Buccleuch.

John Dowe -------- 1773

John Russell, d.d. - - - - - 1784

Translated from Eskdalemuir. His daughter, Margaret Helen,
married John Elliot, of Cooms.

James Donaldson ___--- 1815

Died 20th August, 1854, in the 75th year of his age and 40th of his
ministry.

George Colville ____-- 1854

James Barclay, a.m. ------ 1875

Translated to Montreal, Canada.

William Snodgrass, d.d. ----- 1878
Robert Hogg Kerr, m.a. - 1896

Assistant at Shettleston Parish Church. Inducted to Canonby
1896.

The present church, which was built in 1822 at a cost of

* Hutchinson's History of Cumberland, Vol. II., p. 554. Other
authorities, however, give Dr. Armstrong as the son of the Rev. Robert
Armstrong who preceded William Armstrong, as minister of Castleton.

THE KIRKS LW ESKDALE. 447

£3,000, lias accommodation for nearly 1,000 worshippers.
The church records date from 1694, a,Kl consist o( live
volumes, but in the session hook there is, unfortunately,
a break from 17 15 to 1734- On the commencement o(
the volume in 1694 tne Session consisted of: the Rev.
James Armstrong, minister; and Messrs. William John-
ston in Barngleis, John Armstrong in Holehouse, James
Irvin in Linsdubs, William Brown in Rowanburn, Adam
Almas in Albaridge,* William Armstrong in Crook-
holm, William Armstrong of Grestail, John Waugh in
Turcoon, Thomas Twedal in Sark, William Armstrong
in Glenzier, and Thomas Armstrong in Milnsteads ;
elders. It will be observed that of these eleven elders no
fewer than five are Armstrongs, and that three o( these
are named William. The list reads almost like the fire-
raising indictment of 1605, but the spiritual connection
in which they are now named proves the moral advance
which, within a century, had been made in the Debate-
able Land.

The first entry in the records relates to Mr. James
Armstrong who, "having been declared transportable
by ane Act of the Synod of Mers and Teviotdale," had
been admitted minister in Canonby. Some of the entries
are characteristic of the ecclesiastical spirit of that day : —

44 Cannabee Kirk Ap. 24, 1698. — The Session being informed that
Morise Dikie was at work in Franc Calvert s ground upon the last
fast day, orders ym both to be siimmon'd to y« next diet."

"Cannabee Kirk May 29, 1698. — Fran. Calvert being lawfully
summoned and called, compeared : and sufficiently purged himself
of the charge laid against him. Qrupon In- was dismissed with
ane admonition to prohibit and hinder the like in tyme coming.
John Morise being lawfully summoned and being interrogate upon
the lyb. laid against him confessed the same. Qrupon the Sess,
dismissed him with a rebuke, in regard he is no parishener here."

" Can. Kirk Mar. 8, 1699. — The Act oi ye Assemblie Jam- 26,
1699 and ye Act of ye Counsell enjoining a nationale fast qch is

* Now the Albierig — "the white ridge.'

44<S LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

to be kept upon Thursday first. As also ye Act of Parliat. for a
collection for repairing the bridge of Ancrum were read and the
sd. collection to be upon Sabbath first and 2nd."

"Can. Kirk March 12, 1699. — This day ye collection for ye
bridge of Ancrum is six shill : starline : and qrof two shill : and
four bodies are kept for ye poor and four shill : to be kept for ye
bridge of Ancrum till it be so demanded."

Iii October, 1699, the Session rebuked some people who
had gone "towards Newcastle on ye Sabbath day for
buying" of Beans" in the previous August, and later we
have the following minute : —

"Can. Kirk Oct 14, 1699. —The Session ordered that ye minr.
be put in mind to advertise ye people yt albeit ye persons guilty
of travelling- on ye Lords Day were passed with a private rebuke
before ye Session: yet if any be found guilty of yt or ye like here-
after they shall be rebuked before ye congregation."

Later we have these entries : —

" Can : K. Aug 28, 1709. — The Sess. being informed that the
Egyptians haunt this place at this time, it is appointed that every
elder in his bounds take notice whether they be resett in the
paroch or not."

"Can : K. Oct 20, 1709. — Holehouse reports that the Egyptians
were resett in the house of James Brown of Hagg."

Following the last minutes the Session deal with Acts of
Synod against "resetting the Egyptians" who, it is
said, then wandered in considerable numbers together
through the county to the great scandal of religion. In the
following year action is taken against a parishioner who
confessed to having attended Quaker meetings, and in
the following week, the Session reprove a man who con-
fessed to their questioning anent his penny wedding.
They, moreover, kept a strict superintendence over in-
comers, and there is a record of their rejecting as in-
sufficient the credentials of a domestic servant, and
directing her to go to Tundergarth and get satisfactory
testimonials.

The following are typical minutes : —

"Can: K. July 19, 1 7 13. — The Sess. being informed that Wil-
liam Jackson in Bowholm was carrying a chest and a trunk Sab-
bath last order him to be sumd."

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 449

"Can: K. July -'(>, 171,^ Holehouse and John Elliot are ap-
pointed to speak to James and Charles Russell anenl their chil-
dren 'playing upon the Sabbath day.'"

hi 1 74 1 reference is made to the bridge question :—

" Can : Kirk Aug. 9, 1 7 } 1 . It I > *. * i 1 1 <_; judged convenient at this
tiincth.it ye Sacrament should be administered without the church,
it was done accordingly but the Session unanimously resolve thai
as soon asa bridge is buill over Esk it shall be administered only
within the church and in the winter season."

In 1744, according to a minute of Presbytery, a col-
lection was made in Canonby Kirk on behalf of Archibald
Thomson o( Westerkirk, " who had suffered a great loss
by fire." From these and many similar entries it will be
scon that the members of Session must have been men of
much industry and considerable leisure.

Referring further to the boating disaster mentioned in
the preceding chapter, there are in the kirkyard of
Canonby three tombstones, two o( them, of which a
print is given overleaf, on the right of the entrance-gate,
and the third situated a little to the south-west of the
mausoleum. In all three stones the lettering is in relief,
and in common with many 17th century memorials in
all parts of the country, the letters are frequently united.
The inscriptions on the stones at the entrance-gate
can be easily deciphered in the illustration. On the
third stone there is the following : —

"Here Lyes Frances Armstrang son of' William Armstrong in
Glinyer who died in the water on the Lords day Nov 1, 1696 as

ho wont from the Kirk efter sermon. Aged 20."

Unfortunately the records of Canonby Church at this

date are missing, but in those of the parish of Kirk-

andrews-on-Esk there are some details given of the

occurrence. The following is the text of a note written

by the rector of the parish : —

"Upon Nov. 1, 1696 ycr happened a very sad accident 28
peoplo wen- drowned at Canabie Boat as yej were passing yt
water from Church. Six persons come to years of discretion wenf

from v-t own Church to Canaby. Every sone o( v-'m was

45Q

LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

' SS^Jl

■l£9t&f

THF KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 451

drownded. These six lived in mv parish. There happened in viir
company two boys of 9 and 1 1 years old. They were in y* midst

of ye pool over head and oats in water w<i> ye rest of ye peple yt
were drownded. And yet by a distinguishing privilege yeee two
only got out of ye water- safe. Surel] ,^-otl almighty thereby
showed his displeasure to these persons who being of age passed
by y«* own parish Church to Canaby hut showed his mercy to ye
boys, who knew not wt yey did hut went for company sake. In
suffering persons of age that were of my parish to be drowned and
in preserving ye two lads sate even in as great danger in all
human probability as ye rest. This is so distinguishing a evidence
yt every one ought to take notice of it and take heed how yey run
bom yetf own parish Church. But ye thing is certain as witness
my hand

(Signed) Edw. Wiltshire, Rector."

It further appears from the parish Registers that two at
least of the sufferers were interred at Kirkandrews, viz.,
Win. Attchison and Adam Little, both of Millrighs, who
were buried on the day following the accident.

There is a tradition that the boat was over-loaded, a
source of danger greatly increased by the Esk having
come down in flood during the time of service. It is
said that 28 out of the 35 passengers were drowned.
The fact that only three of the unfortunate people are
buried in Canonby kirkyard and two at Kirkandrews,
rather supports the suggestion that the remainder were
carried to the sea by the swift current o( the flooded river.
The third stone shewn in the illustration has no con-
nection with the accident. It is probably the oldest
stone now in Canonby kirkyard, the date shown being

1593-

There are two Communion Tokens of Canonby ex-
tant :—

1. Octagonal, borders, and undated.

Obverse: CANONBY/KIRK, round the edge.
Reverse: 1 COR / XI., 23.

For illustration of this issue, see No. 1 on Plate
at end of Chapter XXI 1 1.

2. Canonbie, 1816. Round. Incuse around edge.

452 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

STAPELGORTOUN.

The Kirk of Stapelgortoun was under the jurisdiction
of the Abbey of Kelso, to which it was granted by
William de Kunyburg", in 1127.

In 1342, Sir William Douglas received the advocation
of the church. In the rent-roll of the Abbey of Kelso the
value of the carucate of land at Douglen, held by the
monks, was five merks, and the value of the rectory was
^13 6s. 8d.

In 1493, John of Glendonwyn was ordered by the Lords
of the Council to pay to the Abbey of Kelso the sum of
;£8 yearly for the previous seven years, "for the hale
teynds, froits, proffits, and dewities of the kirk of Stabil-
gortoun."1' But, as he did not attend to answer the sum-
mons, the Council ordered his goods to be distrained.

In 1550, Robert, Lord Maxwell, succeeded his father
in the advocation of the churches in the lordship of Esk-
dale, and, as we have seen, he granted to Christie
Armstrong the teinds of the parish in consideration of
the annual sum of £& (Scots) paid by him. Mr. Arm-
strong mentions that in 1574 the valuation of the teinds is
given as : — Stapelgortoun ,£8, and Douglen ^5. By
the General Annexation Act of 1587, the church and
lands of wStapelgortoun became the property of the
Crown.

In 1637, tne k'1"^ and teinds appear to have belonged
to the Earl of Roxburgh, and on his resignation of them
they reverted to the Crown, but seem again to have come
into the possession of the Earl of Roxburgh. On the
abolition of Episcopacy, in 1689, the patronage fell again
to the Crown.

* Mr. R. Bmce Armstrong's History of Liddesdale, &c, p. 101,

454 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

During the Reformation period the incumbency of the
Border churches was somewhat irregular, and we find
that, in the years 1576, 1578, 1579, 1580, and 1585, there
was no fixed minister in Stapelgortoun, and that in 1586
the minister was non-resident. Up to about 161 2 the
spiritual needs of the parish were ministered to by
occasional preachers, but in that year the first Presby-
terian minister was appointed.

The following are some of the ministers of this ancient
parish : —

Archibald Gibsone, a.m. ----- 1612

In 1615, this incumbent received from the Abbey of Kelso a stipend
of 200 merks, and he enjoyed, in addition, the vicarage, manse,
and glebe. In 1626, the Earl of Nithsdale, who had been granted
the lands of Stapelgortoun, in 1621, along with the barony of
Langholm, is noted as paying the minister 320 marks. Gibsone
was formerly of Dunscore, and was presented to Stapelgortoun
by James VI. He died in 1657, aged 78.

Robert Law, a.m. ------ 1657

Descended from the family of Laws Bridge, in Ayrshire. Attained
his degree at Glasgow, 1646, and became assistant to foregoing
Deprived by Act of Parliament 1 ith June, and Act of Privy Council
1st October, 1662. Law was one of the 350 Presbyterian ministers
ejected at the Restoration, and at the same time there went out
the Rev. James Pringle, A.M., of Westerkirk, and the Rev. John
Lithgow, of Ewes. All three seem to have been restored to their
parishes when the persecutions ended. Law returned to the
parish in 1687, and remained minister of Stapelgortoun until his
death in 1702. As the parish was conjoined with Langholm in
1703, he was the last minister of the ancient parish of Stapelgor-
toun. He was buried in the churchyard, as was also his wife, who
died in 1694.

Local antiquaries had observed the existence of his tombstone, but
it was left to Mr. Clement Armstrong and his brother-in-law,
Mr. Carlyle, of Milnholm, to have it rescued from obscurity and
neglect. Through the Kirk-Session of Langholm they succeeded
in restoring the stone, and had it erected against the west wall of
the mortuary chapel of the Maxwells. The inscription is as
follows: — "This Monument is erected in Memory of the Revd. Mr.
Robert Law, descended from the Ancient Family of Laws Bridge,
in the County of Air, minister of this Parish. He was Pious,
Learned, Wise, Judicious, Moderate, and a Chearful Sufferer for
Religion, and his Memory is Dear to all who knew him. He died
April 8, 1702, in the 72 year of his Age, and was Interred in Staple
Gordon Church as was also Mary his wife who Died Jan. 9,
1694. She was Devout, Zealous, Meek, and of great Charity,
and spent her time in doing good. Many daughters have done

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 455

Virtuously, l>ui thou excellesl them all. This is put up by the
Order of their Son, Robt. Law, Doctr- of Physick, Deceased, and
Performed by his Daughter, Dame ELIZ. HALIBURTON, Relict
oi Sr. John HALIBURTON, Knight"

For further references see below, and also Chapter XXII.

Matthew Reid, a.m. ------ 1663

Probably son of the Rev. Matthew Reid, minister oi Kirkinner.
Degree at University of Edinburgh, 14th July, 1659. Whilst at-
tending Divinity Class had a legacy of jc merks from Mr. James
Reid, minister of St Cuthbert's. Licensed, it>b4. Translated to
Hodcl.un, 1669. The epitaph on his tombstone at Hoddam is as
follows : —

11 His name, he from St. Matthew took,
His skill in physic from St. Luke ;

A /(•(■(/ o\' John tlu' Baptist's kind
Not blown about by every wind."

" Ever a true Nathaniel,

He preached, lived, and dyed well."

Robert Allan, a.m. ------ 1670I

Son of Rev. Thomas Allan, minister of Wauchope. Graduated at
Edinburgh, i<><>5 Deprived by the Act of Parliament, 1690. Went
to England, and died in 17J0, aged 75 years.

Robert Law, a.m. -__-__ 1688

After suffering imprisonment in Glasgow, in i(>7-|, and being out-
lawed (and, according to some accounts, going to Ireland), he
returned to Eskdale in 1687. lie kept a Meeting House at Burn-
foot, and entered Kirk of Stapelgortoun in 1688. Aftei depriva-
tion oi above Robert Allan, in 1690, Law was formally restored to
the paiish. Member of Assembly in May, [690, and 1692.

The foundations of the pre-Reformation Church are
easily distinguishable in the churchyard, which is still in
use at the close of nearly 800 years. In 1703 the parish
was divided, part being assigned to Westerkirk and the
remainder, together with Wauchope, and half o( the
parish oi Morton, being united in the new parish oi
Langholm. In the churchyard are many tombstones
o\' great local interest. Stapelgortoun was the burial
place o( Bailie Little, SO often mentioned in these
pages. The stone, o\\ which the earliest date is 1692,
records the death of Sir fames Little, knight ; Mat-

* See Appendix, V 1.
t Mr. R. Bruce Armstrong says 1673. History of Liddesdale, &e.,
p. 102.

456 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

thew Little, captain, and Thomas Little, major, both
in the service of the Hon. East India Company, all
sons of Matthew Little and Helen Pasley. Bailie Little's
mother, Grisell Wylie, died in 1703, and was the first to
be buried in the new churchyard at the head of the Kirk-
wynd of Langholm. Stapelgortoun is the burial place
of the Maxwells of Broomholm, and stones have been
placed in the mausoleum in memory of many of the
family who died in India, and other places abroad.

WAUCHOPK.

The church of Wauchope, as already indicated, was
attached to the cell of Canonby, with whose history it
was almost inseparably connected, and like it, was under
the jurisdicton of the Abbey of Jedburgh, though not
assessed to its support. We have seen that Robert, Lord
Maxwell, was possessed of the churches and chaplainries
of Wauchope in 1530, and in 1539 he received from the
Prior of Canonby a lease for five years of the vicarage
and glebe-lands. It was doubtless owing to its associa-
tion with Canonby, as well as to the fact that the Irvine
Burn was the boundary between the parishes, that the
parish of Wauchope embraced such farms as Irvine and
Cauldtown.

In 1606 the Priory lands of Canonby and the teinds of
Wauchope were granted to Lord Home, who seems to
have experienced considerable difficulty in collecting the
teinds, both in Wauchope and Ewesdale. In 1610 nine
Armstrongs, seven Irvings, seven Littles, seven Grahams,
and thirteen persons of other surnames in Wauchope were
ordered to be denounced as rebels and put to the horn
for not restoring and delivering again, each o( them his

*mL

■

458 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

own part, respectively, of the following- teinds: — "Lam bis
teind, stirkis teind, butter teind, cheis teind, hay and
utheris fruitis." These persons had been summoned
before the Lords of Council but failed to appear, and
this denunciation was the outcome.

In 162 1 Wauchope passed to the Earl of Nithsdale
by the charter erecting" Langholm into a Burgh of
Barony. The stipend was then fixed at* 500 merks.
Ultimately, about 1653, both lands and patronage passed
to the House of Buccleuch, who, by virtue of this, acquired
part of the right of patronage of the newly formed parish
of Langholm. In 1703 one-half of the parish of Morton
was annexed to Wauchope, and both were added to the
portion of Stapelgortoun to form the new parish of
Langholm. Like the other kirks of Eskdale, Wauchope
had no stated minister from 1576 to 1585. In 1587, by
the General Annexation Act, its patronage was vested in
the Crown. In 1609, when it was reached by the wave of
interest set in motion by the Reformed Church, Wauc-
hope obtained a resident minister. The following are
the incumbents from that date : —

John Douglas, a.m. - - - - - - 1609

Translated from Longformacus. Presented to Wauchope and
Canonby by James VI. In 161 5 he also had Morton.

James Mowbray (or Moubrey), a.m. - 1635

Formerly of Carmunock. Presented by Charles I. Died about
1642, aged 49.

Thomas Allan (or Allane), a.m. - 1644

Had his degree at St. Andrews in 1635. Ordained 1644. Died
1684,* aged 69 years. On the passing of the notorious Act of
1662, Mr. Allan conformed to the decree of the Privy Council, and
obtained nomination by a Bishop, and was re-ordained. He was
thus enabled to retain his church and manse, whilst his fellow-pres-
byters in Staplegortoun, Ewes, and Westerkirk "went out into the
wilderness." During his incumbency Mr. Allan was the victim of a

* The Session Records give the date 1689.

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 450

serious outrage by some Armstrongs of the Kinmont branch. They
broke into his house, ami after beating both him and his wife "verie
pitifullie," they stole two horses. Hearing thai the minister
charged them with the outrage, and standing in wholesome awe
of Buccleuch, in whoso jurisdiction the}- wore, they persuaded a
fellow from the English side, as notorious a thief and outlaw as
they themselves, to take the blame. This he did, and told the
minister that he would never see a hair of his horses' tails unless
he gave him five pounds— a sum Mr. Allan was obliged to pay to

1 feCOVer his own horses.

Mr. Allan had a daughter and two sons, one of them being the
minister at Stapelgortoun, The other became an apothecary in
Edinburgh

Simon Wyld ------- 1685

Translated 'from Hilton. Ordained in 1685. Remained in Wauc-
hope about three years and then went to Ireland, his native
country. Died abroad before 1715.

[ohn Laurie, a.m. - - - - - - 1691

Attained his degree at the University oi' Edinburgh in 1671.
Ordained 10th September, 1691. Was a member of Assembly in

1692. Translated to Eskdalemuir in July, 1703.

The church of Wauchope stood within the present
kirkyard, where a remnant of the foundations is still
visible. Until within recent years a considerable number
o( moulded and carved stones were scattered about.
Many of them have been used as tomb-stones and others
have been built into the wails. The most noteworthy
of these relics are shown on next page.

The ancient cross is fixed into the ground a few
yards south-west of the foundation walls. We submit-
ted the impression of it to the Bishop of Bristol (Dr.
G. F. Browne), probably the greatest authority in Eng-
land on early Christian symbolism, and he very court-
eously replied : —

"DEAR Mr. HYSLOP, — [ am glad to have your letter and the
very interesting engraving from the three stones. They do not,
I think, eall for any special remark, but if you like to s,tv some-
thing speculative about the cross, something o\ this kind might

do: It seems probable thai crosses o\ this type are meant to re-
present the cross upon the Orb. The super-position of the ordin-

In the Sessions Records he is named "Simon Wool."

CROSS AND SWORDS IN WAUCHOPE KIRKYARD.

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 46.

ary cross upon the St. Andrew's Cross within a circle probably

arose in this way, the earliest symbols of the kind that we have
in this Island are in Galloway. They represent the Chi Rho en-
closed in a circle ; the curve of tin- Rho, like the top of a capital
P opened out, soon disappeared and left a St. Andrew's Cross
with a vertical bar through the middle, all enclosed in a circle.
To insert the horizontal bar and thus make two crosses was a
\ ei \ natural step in advance.

Yours very truly,

(Signed) G. F. Bristol.

In answer to other enquiries the Bishop said:

"The first sepulchral crosses stood upright ; the first dated ex-
ample we have now remaining is at Bewcastle in Cumberland ; it
was set up in the first year of King EGgfrith, that is \.n. 670, and
when set up it was about 17 feet high. A great many portions of
sepulchral crosses beautifully sculptured are in existence in the
north of England and the Midlands, usually of no great height.
The costliness of such ornaments must have been considerable,
and I suppose that it would naturally become a practice to have
the cross cut on the surface of the horizontal body stone, instead
of placing a standing cross at the head of the stone.''

The incised swords are built into the kirkyard wall on
the Wauchope Road, one on each side of the gateway.
We are informed by Dr. T. Coke Squance, F.R.S., ED.,
ot Sunderland, whose knowledge and collection of arm-
our and weapons is well known throughout the north of
England, that the swords are of English design of the
thirteenth century. It will be recalled that in the late

* The Chi Rho is an ancient religious symbol, a monogram of (1) the
Greek X = ch, and (2) the Greek R. These make the first three letters
of Christos, which has been shortened into Christ. The symbol is
graphically represented thus TJ The monogram is frequently seen on
Roman coins of the fourth y^. century. When Constantine attacked
Lucinius about the year 323, he carried the labarum with this symbol upon
it at the head of his army as the deliverer of the Church. Upon a coin
of Decent ius, here illustrated, in* addition to the Chi Rho, the A and 12
are also shewn between the arms of the Chi.

462 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

thirteenth, and early fourteenth centuries, Wauchope was
in the possession of the Lindsays, an English family
who actively sympathised with Edward in the Wars of
Independence. Dr. Sq nance agrees with our suggestion
that these incised swords were probably placed in mem-
ory of some of the chiefs of the Lindsays who fell
righting against Scotland at Bannockburn.

Not a few mediaeval tombstones still exist in the church-
yard, most of them bearing the conventional symbols of
mortality, whilst one or two are carved with grotesque
figures.

What is perhaps the oldest lettered stone in Wauchope
stands near the middle of the northern wall. The in-
scription is as follows : —

" Here lyes Andrew McVeti N. Murthm who died 16 day of
Agest 1713, his age 66."

On the same stone : —

" Here lies John McVeti his son who died 25 April 17 14 his age

29 "*

There is no lovelier spot in Eskdale than the old kirk-
yard of Wauchope — no place around which the memories
and affections of Langholm people cling more tena-
ciously. The soft eternal sound of the river, still, after
many milleniums, cutting its way deeper into the hard
rock, the song of the birds in the spring and summer
days ; the flowers and greenery of the opposite glade ;
the encircling hills, green in the spring, deep purple in
the summer, russet brown in autumn ; — all these combine

* It has long been current in Eskdale that the family of McVittie set-
tled in Eskdale as stragglers from the Pretender's army in 1715. This
is obviously incorrect, as will be seen both from this inscription, and
from the Stapelgortoun Registers printed in Appendix VI. In 1669 there
were McVitties in Langholm, Wauchope, and Stubholme. In that year
" John McVittie in Stubholme " was one of the witnesses to the marriage
of John Hislop of the parish of Wauchope, and Bessie Lyttle, in Hole,
in the parish of Stapelgortoun.

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 463

to make the frame which encloses the mortal ashes ol
our sacred dead, sleeping amidst the beauties <,)( W'uie-
hope. The place impresses every visitor, — he speaks ^(
it and goes his way. But the un breathed love of it, the
memory o( it, stills the voices o( Langholm folks with a
strange, subtle spell. Wordsworth felt its charm and
lias recorded his impression in the tender sonnet en-
titled A Place of Burial in the South of Scot la mi :

" Part fenced by man, part by a ragged steep
That curbs a foaming brook, a Grave-yard lies ;
The Hare's besl crouching-place ft r fearless sleep,

Which moon-lit Elves, far seen by credulous eyes
Enter in dance. Of church or Sabbath ties
No vestige now remains ; yet hither creep
Bereft Ones and in lowly anguish weep
Their prayers out to the wind and naked skies.
Proud tomb is none, but rudely-sculptured knights
By humble choice of plain old times are seen
Level with earth, among- the hillocks green,
Union not sad, when sunny daybreak smites,
The spangled turf and neighbouring thickets ring
With Jubilate from the choirs of Spring !"

LANGHOLM.

The parish of Langholm dates from the year 1703,
when the Eskdale parishes were re-arranged. The
ancient parish of Stapelgortoun was divided, on& part
being conjoined with Westerkirk and the other with
Wauchope, to form the new parish of Langholm, which
town had now become, both as regards trade and popula-
tion, the capital of Eskdale.

The following are the names of the ministers o( Lang-
holm : —

David Graham ------- 1706

Licensed by the Presbytery of Jedburgh in 1700. Called 12th
Dei-., 1705- and ordained 24th March, 170b. Translated to Kirk-

mahoe nth April, 1716.

Alexander Meikle, a.m. - - - - - 17 17

Graduated at Edinburgh University ~'<)tti April, 1701. Licensed
by five ministers, at London, 27th July, 1704, and was forborne time

464 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

assistant to Dr. Isaac Watts, the well-known divine and hym-
nologist. Resided for a while in Kirkcaldy, and had a testimonial
from its Presbytery. On an almost unanimous petition, the Pres-
bytery proceeded with a call 15th Nov., 1716, and Mr. Meikle was
also presented by George I, and ordained qth May, 1717. On
account of bodily infirmity, he demitted in Dec, 1746, and reserved
£40 yearly for his support. He died 17th July, 1757, aged about
76 years, and in the 41st of his ministry. Mr. Meikle had married
1st Nov., 1726, Julia, daughter of Thomas Henderson, of Plough-
lands, in the parish of Dalmeny, and had four sons. William
Julius, third son, born 28th Sept., 1735, was famed for his poetic
genius. Mrs. Meikle mortified the sum of ^3 sterling " for the
beginning oi' a free school in that part of the parish o( Langholm
called Wauchope allenarly for teaching English."

John Dickie ------- 1748

Translated from Dunscore. Called 17th September, 1747 ; ad-
mitted 2 1 st January, 1748. In 1 7 5 1 , declined a call to Ay ton.
Demitted 12th October, 1790; died 9th Feby., 1800, aged 91 years,
and in the 63rd of his ministry. Stated to have been a man of
" considerable vigour of mind, very sanctimonious in his manners,
yet with a desire of being thought free and liberal in his senti-
ments." Another account speaks of him as "a very godly
man . . , held in the very highest estimation." On retiring
from Langholm, he went to reside in Edinburgh. He was deeply
versed in the history of the Covenanting period, and possessed
many relics of the martyrs.

Thomas Martin, a.m. ------ 1791

Translated from Castleton. Presented by George III., and
admitted i tth August, 1791. Died at Edinburgh, whither he had
gone to attend the General Assembly, 29th May, 181 2, in the 59th
year of his age and 22nd of his ministry.

An evangelical but weak preacher. It is reported that in the
Assembly during a discussion anent the inclusion of passages of
Scripture in the Psalmody, he waggishly observed that they must
not omit the members of the musical Presbytery — Mr. Sing-ers of
Fa-la ; Mr. Sang-ster of Hum-bie ; Mr. Piper of Pen-cait-lah ;
and Dr. Lo-ri-mer of Had-din-ton. It is not recorded how the
Assembly received the suggestion, t

Mr. Martin wrote the history of the parish for Sir John Sinclair's
Statistical Account, in 1793. Shortly after his admission the pre-
sent manse was built, and he had the so-called Roman bridge over
Wauchope at the Auld Caul taken down, a deed which aroused
considerable resentment.

* See Part V. of this volume. Doubt has been expressed as to the
correct spelling of this name, some using the form " Mickle." Miss
Nichol, Chinch Street, West Hartlepool, a daughter of the late William
Nichol, bank agent, Langholm, had in her possession a receipt given by
the minister of Langholm to Simon Little, portioner of Langholm, for
teinds in the year 1745. It is signed " Alexr. Meikle."-- Eskdale and
Liddesdale Advertiser, January 25th, 1899.

+ In Dr. Russell's Reminiscences of Yarrow (p. 60), the same incident
is related of Dr. McKnight, one of the Clerks of Assembly.

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 465

William Berry Shaw - 1812

Translated from Roberton. Presented by Charles William, fourth
Duke of Buccleuch —duo of his first presentations after succeeding'
to the title — and admitted 6th Nov., 1812. Died 17th June, [850,
in his 81st year and the 55th oi' his ministry. Published five
single sermons, Hawick, 1810, and Carlisle, 1835, 8vo. ; also,
Sermons, Doctrinal and Practical, Edinburgh, 1859, 8vo. ; Sermon
xiv. in Gillan's Scots Pulpit. Mr. Shaw wrote the Statistical Ac-
count of 1841. He was a personal friend of Dr. Chalmers, t he
great Disruptionist leader.

[ames Wilson Macturk, b.a. - 1 854

On the recommendation of Venerable Principal Macfarlane, of
Glasgow, appointed, on presentation by the Queen, assistant and
successor to foregoing1. Succeeded 1856. Died 26th Dec, 1878.

James Buchanan ______ 1S79

Educated, Glasgow University. Licensed by Presbytery of
Glasgow 1 2th June, 1872. Assistant to Rev. Dr. Paul, St. Cuth-
bert's, and afterwards to Rev. Dr. Nicholson, St. Stephen's,
Edinburgh. Ordained to parish of Rathven, Banffshire, nth Feb-
ruary, 1875. Inducted to Langholm, jjth June, 1879, and has since
continued in pastoral charge.

In 1703, a chapel was built at Half-Morton, and was
supplied every fourth Sunday by the minister of Lang-
holm, until 1825. The Session of Langholm had to pay
10s. on the annual occasion of each Sacrament, to Half-
Morton in lieu of poor's rate. The chapel having fallen
into disrepair, and the circumstances having been before
several Assemblies, disjunction was resolved upon, and
Half-Morton was erected into a separate parish by the
Court of Teinds, 6th March, 1839. The Rev. W. B.
Shaw had been relieved of the oversight of Half-Morton
in 1825.

The Eskdale parishes were, from the Reformation, in
the bounds of the Presbytery of Middleby, but, in 1743,
they were disjoined by the General Assembly, and, with
Castleton from the Presbytery of Jedburgh, formed into
the Presbytery of Langholm.

Since the formation of the parish of Langholm there

have been four parish churches. The first was built
FF

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 467

in 170^, the second in 1747, the third in 1779, and
the fourth, the present handsome structure in the Early
Gothic style, on the Eldingholm, in 1N45. The remain-
ing portion of the third church is shown in the illustra-
tion. The bell, which still hangs in the belfry, but, owing to
the insecure condition of the gable, is never rung, measures
i<S inches in depth by two feet across the mouth, and is
inscribed " Armstrong-, &c, Founderers. Edin. 1795."
Some doubt exists as to the sites of the earlier Manses.
In the letter already quoted Miss Nichol states that
during the ministry of Mr. Meikle the Manse stood on
the site of the present National Bank of Scotland in the
High Street of Langholm, and that here William Julius
Meikle was born. As his birth was in 1734 this is
possible, but from the records of the Kirk Session we
know that in 1721 the Rev. Alex. Meikle's Manse was in
Wauchope. The traditional site of this Manse, where,
it is also alleged, the poet was born, was on the mound
made by the ruins of Wauchope Castle, where the
ground plan of the house is easily traceable. At the
end of the Stapelgortoun Registers, printed as Appendix
VI. of this volume, some curious entries are made,
evidently by the Rev. Robert Allan, the episcopal
minister of the parish, who was the son of the minister
of Wauchope. The entries relate to certain domestic
matters, but they afford information of value to us in
ttiis enquiry. When deprived of Stapelgortoun in 1690,
Mi. Allan evidently went to reside in his father's old
Manse of Wauchope, as we see from this entry : —

"Then on Mund March 13, 1 6<>4. my third daughter was born the
foresd day about 9 hours in the forenoon in the mansion house at
Wauchope Walls and was baptised in the meeting- house vr. on
thurs the 17 of the foresd month by Mr. John Halyburton, minister

oi Graitney and was named Margaret "

468 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

The "mansion house at Wauchope Walls" could
not be the Castle, for it was then in ruins, and can refer
only to the Manse, in which, as we have seen, Mr. Meikle
was living in 172 1. It is, of course, possible that in the
interval between 1721 and 1734 he may have removed,
but as the present Manse was also built in Wauchope in
1793, we incline to the opinion that Miss Nichol was in
error.

The parish Registers date as follows: — Baptisms,
from 1706; Marriages, from 17 19 ; and Deaths, from
1704.

There are extant at least two specimens of the Com-
munion Tokens of Langholm Kirk, each measuring 15
sixteenths of an inch.

That numbered 2 on the Plate at the end of Chapter
XXIII, is a round token. Obverse: LANGHOLM,
around edge of upper segment. K in centre. With
borders. Reverse: 1 Cor. /xi., 23.

That numbered 3 on the Plate is octagonal, with bord-
ers. Obverse: LANGHOLM, in semi-circle over KIRK.
Reverse : plain.

There is another Token not mentioned by Mr. A. J. S.
Brook, f.s.a. (Scot.), in his great work on the Com-
munion Tokens of the Established Church of Scotland,
nor by the Rev. H. A. Whitelaw, Dumfries, in his valu-
able book on the Tokens of Dumfriesshire, but which,
nevertheless, we think is one of the earliest issue of
Langholm Tokens.

The Obverse is here " " shewn. The Reverse

is plain. We have L.K submitted this to Mr.
Whitelaw, who agrees 1709 with us that the Token

is probably one of Lang holm Kirk, though the

Rev. Mr. Buchanan, minister of the parish, does not

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 469

share our view. And Mr. White law agrees with us,
that the entries given below create a possibility if not a
probability that this is a Token oi Langholm, the first

issued after its erection into a separate parish.

Its issue, it is true, in not mentioned in the Session
Records. In 1 7 12 there is a minute about borrowing from
Canonby, Ewes, and Westerkirk the "utensils" (as they
are quaintly styled) for the administration o( the Sacra-
ment, but no mention is made of Tokens. In 17 16,
however, there is given an inventory, or what in Eng-
lish parish churches is called a "terrier," of these "uten-
sils," and one of the items is "a bag with 400 or 500
communion tokens." So that, presumably, in 17 12,
and, assuredly, in 1716, Langholm Kirk, originating in
1703, had its own Tokens. When were they cast? The
evidences point to a date near 1709.

In 1749 there is a minute recording the casting of 8/900
new Tokens.

The Session Records contain some very interesting
items, and deal with a range of subjects for which Kirk
Sessions of the present day assume no responsibility.
The following extracts* are typical : —

"July 20, 1695. — Intimation was made from the pulpit, of a gen-
eral collection throughout the kingdom for redeeming some ot
our countrymen taken captive by the Turks."

"July 27, 1697. — Four men had gone to Carlisle for victuals, and
Oil their return found the Esk not passable at Canonby. They lay
down by the river side and crossed early on Sunday morning.
The Session held they should have left their burdens at the water
Side, come home on Saturday night, and returned for them on
Monday morning. They were rebuked for their infringement of
the Sabbath."

" May 3 1 st, 1706. — The Session fixed the fees for the Proclamation
o\ marriage at 5 groats, whereof a shilling was to go to the pre-
centor and eight pence to the church officer. The fee t'o\ baptism
was fixed at od. -6d. to the precentor and 3d. to the church officer."

These are taken from reprints which appealed in the EskdaU and
Liddesdale Advertiser. It is to be regretted that the minutes were not
there quoted in their original text. Much of their picturesqueness is
lost through the paraphrasing.

470 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

"August 4, 1706. — Church officer's salary fixed at 10s. a year
and a pair of shoes."

"Oct. 27, 1706.— J. R. having- lately come home from England
married, was ordered to produce a testimonial of his marriage."
" July 3, 1709. — J. J. and J. K. rebuked for holding a penny wed-
ding."

" May 13, 1716. — M. G. acknowledged that she had been guilty ot
scolding and fly ting and was rebuked."

"May 12, 1717. — No Session this day because of the confusion
caused by a troop of dragoons coming into the town during the
time of forenoon sermon."

"Aug. 18, 1717. — The Sabbath being badly observed the Session
renewed the patrol of the streets on that day by two of their
number."

"Sep. 8, 1 7 1 7. — The elders reported that they saw no abuse of
the Sabbath, but that they found two men sitting together at the
fireside of another during divine service. They were instructed
to speak to them privately and warn them of the consequences if
it was repeated. "

" June 3, 1720. — The Session borrowed table linen for the Com-
munion Tables from Ewes ; as a supply, for which a collection
had been made in the parish, was not obtainable at the Fair."
"April 9, 1721. — No sermon, the minister being "barred" by the
waters. This occurred for 2 Sundays and application was made
to Mr. Melville to have the bridge over Wauchope put right."
"July 16, 1721. — The minister having represented that strangers
having counterfeit testimonials carry away much of the pool's
money, proposed that it should be enacted that no strangers after
this get above twopence, and when more than one in company a
penny only, to help to carry them on the road . . ."
" May 6, 1722. — The minister was appointed to apply to Mr. Mel-
ville for a warrant to the constables to put a vagrant boy who
resides commonly in this town, out of the parish."
"Sep. 23, 1722. — The minister reported that he had received a
letter from the Earl of Dalkeith wherein his Lordship promised to
grant a warrant for ^12 sterling towards the building- of a dyke
about the churchyard of Langholm. The Session considering
that more money is required to build the dyke . . . thought
fit to ask a collection throughout the parish, and the question being-
moved what time was most fit for such a collection, the elders
thought it most probable that money would be in the people's
hands about the Winter Fair, and appoint the minister to make in-
timation of a collection

"Nov. 2, 1722. — The officer reports S. S. came after divine ser-
vice was beg-un, and that he hindered him to sit on the stool (of
repentance), in which he was approven and appointed to intimate
to S. S. that each day he appears in sackcloth, he is to stand at
the church door from the 2nd bell until worship is begun."*
"June 9, 1723. — The Session allow J. J. now very weak, a mutch-
kin of sack."

* On Sunday mornings in Langholm the Kirk bell is still rung in this
order : —

9 o'clock, called the 1st bell.
1030 ,, called the 2nd bell, or the "warning bell."

1 1 30 ,, called the 3rd bell. The services begin
1 ' "45-

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 471

"Oct. 13, '7-Jj. — There being a complaint that several people
walk In the water side after divine service is over, advertisement
will be made from the pulpit that they will be taken notice of ac-
cording to the Act of Assembly if they continue in iliat practice."
"April 25, 1725. -The minister reported thai the mason work of
the kirkyard dykes was finished about November last, together
with tlu- gates ami styles, ami that he had spoken to iMiddle-Milne*
for young timber to plant the churchyard with, which lie granted."
" March 6, 1726. — The Session allow J. L. and J. B., two of the
pooi scholars, a quarter to learn to sing the common tunes at
threepence per month. The minister reported that he had tried
who of the poor scholars had ears and none of them were capable
but these two."

" Dec. 29, 1729. — Advertisement is to be made next Sabbath that
no bad moneyf be given into the collection for the poor."
"Nov. 4, 1 73 1 . — The treasurer repotted that he had sold of Woods
halfpennies 7 shillings and 8 pence and got for them 2/3^6, and of
sanded halfpennies 27/3^. and got 4/- for them at 5d. a pound."
"Nov. 8, 1730. — The minister reports that he had received a hand-
some compliment of books sent by the Society for propagating
Christian Knowledge in Scotland, for the use of poor scholars at
the Society's school at Half-Morton, consisting of "syllabing"
Catechisms, Single Catechisms,;): Proverbs, Psalm Hooks, New
Testaments and Bibles, with several of Guthrie's Saving Interests,
Confession of Faith, some copies of Vincent on the Catechism,
some arithmetic books, music and copperplate copy books with
two quires of clean paper — for which the minister had returned
thanks."

" April 2, 1732. — A contumacious woman had been appointed to sit
in the place of repentance next Lord's Day, with the sack-gown
on, but as there was no sackcloth ready, the deacons were ap-
pointed to provide sackcloth on the Pair day, and employ a tailor
to make a gown without fail." §

"Jan. 20, 1740. The Session, considering the rigorous season and
straits of the poor at present, agreed to make frequent distribution
to them and one is to be made on Tuesday next and every Tues-
day while the storm lasts and they have money to distribute. "4
"Nov. 12, 1740. W. N. and J. D. having this day been sponsors
for their children in baptism, and having been guilty of indecent
and scandalous carriage before the congregation, in striving about
pre-eminence as to their place of standing when presenting their
children, were sharply rebuked and appointed to make satisfaction
before the congregation."

Probably Mr. Elliot of Midlem-Mill, the Duke's chamberlain, who
had recently come to reside in Langholm Castle.

t The Session Records contain frequent references to "bad money.
Occasionally the accumulation was sold, — e.g., "sold 15 April last 24 sh.
j£d, bad money for 8d. the pound, and received therefor 5s. gd. sterling."

X The Shorter Catechism, without proofs, was popularly called "The
Singles Quaistings."

§ A later minute reports the cost ol this tailor-made gown as 2/11,
thread and washing included.

4- In 1767 a similar minute is recorded to the effect that through "The
pit-sent excessive storm of snow there was no meal in the town and
the Puke's chamberlain was to be approached on the matter.

472 LANGHOLM AS IT WAS.

"Jay. 4, 1789. — The Session, taking- into consideration the present
inclemency of the weather, made it proper that some of the poor
should be provided by the Session in fuel, resolved therefore that
£1 is. sterling- should be laid out by the kirk treasurer for peat
accordingly to be given to the poor "by a list put into the hands of
Robert Hotson,* at 1 cart full of peats each."

There are frequent minutes anent the taking- of collec-
tions for building bridges in different parts of the country,
at Ancrum, Berwick, Bridge of Dee ; for a new harbour
at Banff; for a new meeting house in Carlisle, and so on.
Naturally, many cases of moral discipline are reported
and frequent reference is made to <l rebukes," from the
Session ; privately ; by the ministers before the whole
congregation ; and, occasionally, by the Presbytery.

EWES.

The Nether-Kirk o( Ewes was dedicated to St. Cuth-
bert. It stood near the site of the present church, and
served for the spiritual needs of lower Ewesdale. The
hamlet clustered round the church and was named Kirkton
or Kirk-town, — a name which survives in Kirkton Burn.

Nether-Ewes is first mentioned in 1296, when Ro-
bert, the parson, swore fealty to the English King
Edward, and had his privileges restored by him, so far
as he was in a position so to do.

The Douglases came into the possession of the advow-
son of St. Cuthbert's about 1342 on the forfeiture of the
Lovels. In 1506, on the resignation by the Master of
Angus of his lands in Ewesdale, the Crown granted the
donation of all these churches to Alexander, Lord Home,
to whom also were granted the church lands of Wauc-
hopedale on the forfeiture of the Lindsays. In 15 16, on
the forfeiture o( Lord Home, all these donations were

* The builder of Langholm Bridge.

THE KIRKS OF ESKDALE. 473

bestowed upon Robert, Lor J Maxwell, who was then
rising to a paramount position in Eskdale. In 1O21 the
Earl o( Nithsdale received the teinds of Ewes, and in

K)2^ lie received from Sir John Ker o( Jedburgh the
patronage of Nether-Ewes. In 1(^4^ the Earl's son, Wil-
liam Maxwell oi Kirkhous, succeeded his father in the
church lands of Ewes, and as late as 1696 they were in
possession of the family, but afterwards came into the
hands of the Earls of Buccleuch.

In common with the rest of the Eskdale kirks both
Over and Nether- Ewes were without a settled minister
from 1576 to 1585, and in 1586 the minister was non-
resident.

The following are the names of the ministers who
have held the living since the early part of the seven-
teenth century : — *

William Graham, a.m. - - - - - 161 7

Chisholm ------

John Lithgow

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Full text of "Langholm as it was : a history of Langholm and Eskdale from the earliest times / by John Hyslop and Robert Hyslop"

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